Bri3L6

Just got off the phone with mazda and it turns out that the loss of power that I've been noticing isn't a clogged cat or intake.. it's the engine. I'm in shock because it's an 06' with only 80k miles and I took good care of it (or maybe I should say that I thought I took good care of it?). Oil changes every 4k and checked the level very frequently... I did whatever maintentance that the owner's manual suggested too.

But I guess I shouldn't dwell on that too long because I'm getting a free engine.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

It sounds like you aren't aware of the long term durability of the Renesis, and all of the engine failures that have occurred. 80k is hardly bad, and nothing to be shocked about.

They aren't time bombs waiting to fail, but they simply don't last as long as piston engines, hence Mazda offering the 100k 8yr engine warranty to appease the public opinion on it. They only guaranteed it to work (originally) for 60,000 miles. There is also more to engine health than just oil changes and oil level. Avoiding/reducing carbon is another big point.


Nothing to get angry or upset over unless you had a misconception in your head. We heavily advocate new owners to go into a purchase with eyes wide open to the possible issues, chance of early engine replacement, and other quirks of owning a rotary. No one should buy a rotary expecting it to be a reliable car. Sure, many many many of them are reliable (like mine), but most simply aren't, either from drive style, factory flaws, environmental factors, or neglect.

Bri3L6

Over the past 5 years (when i bought the car), I've done a good share of homework about rotaries and I understand the issues and heard the stories. I guess I just figured my 06' to be a little bit more reliable than the 03', 04' and 05' models that I've read about.

MariesRX8

No worries, you didn't do anything wrong. 80,000 seems about average for when the starting and power problems become annoying enough for most people to have the compression checked, and... surprise! New engine. Mine was changed at 78,000, although the symptoms weren't all that bad yet (just took a bit longer to start when hot, and wasn't quite as zoom-zoom as it once was).

If you plan to hang onto your 8, consider having other things done while the engine is out, as most places won't charge labor (or reduce it) to replace your clutch, engine mounts, etc. That's what I did anyway

Bri3L6

About 30 seconds after they told me I was getting a new engine they started to try to sell me a new actuator valve the engine mounts and new coils (sounded like it was all adding up to 900 bucks). Is the clutch neccessary? I'm going to do the coils myself and I'll do the engine mounts elswhere.

Bri3L6

i have a nice to do list shaping up for my car... new winter tires are towards the end of the list and a new engine is on the top (but apparently I can cross that one off.. lol)

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

IF (and only if) you aren't going to do the work yourself and those things are remotely close to needing replacement, then yes, getting those done at the same time as the engine replacement is a good idea, because it drastically cuts the labor cost since the engine is already out.

All of that you can (in theory) replace yourself though.

ASH8

Gee I think 80K (miles) is a very good engine achievement considering all Series 1's are minus the necessary middle Apex Seal Injector/Weeper used in every other rotary made for the past 25 years.

OP did you Pre-Mix at all?.. at any stage?

Some advice ...if you have not already read so...
Seeing you are getting a Re-man engine from MNAO I strongly suggest you get the dealer or yourself to Inspect MOP, and the 4 long Oil Feed Tubes from MOP to Oil Injectors/Weepers, and the Injectors themselves.

If the tubes look hard (no flexibility) or brittle...renew them.
Also Clean and or renew the 4 Injectors.

These parts are also known to either block or break, ending up with some Injectors not supplying engine Oil as required..

Bri3L6

--I've always used a 5w20 synthetic blend if that's what youre refering to

thanks for the advice.. I'll check the tubes and injectors.

Bri3L6

the coils ill do myself.. I'm thinking about having them do the mounts though. He said for the top and bottom parts would cost a little under $500 though. Is that a rip off? or should i just go with it?

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

FYI, you are not getting a new engine either. That is a somewhat common misconception, just thought I would clarify. You are getting a rebuilt engine made up from used parts from other failed motors and new parts.

MariesRX8

Frankenstengine!

I love mine though. I just hope it lasts for... well... that it lasts

wrightcomputing

iTrader: (5)

My engine has about 60,000 miles on it and was wondering if I should pull the engine and do a rebuild on my own as preventative maintenance, such as strip it down clean all the parts and replace all the seals. Would this be a good idea? I think with it having the warrantee that it may just be a waste of time.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

If your engine is healthy, doing a rebuild on it is just a waste of time.

If it's your only car, then you have to select a period of time that you can take it out of commission to do the rebuild, if it's not your only car, then if it fails you won't be horribly inconvinenced anyway.

The only other reason I'd do a pre-emptive rebuild is if I bought a 2nd engine and took my time rebuilding it, get it ready to go in, and then eventually just replace it myself, and then start rebuilding the one that came out.

A rebuild will also void whatever warranty is left on it.

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

The only problem with the rebuilds is that you really don't know what you are getting. It could last 75,000 miles (like my first rebuild) or 30,000 (like my last). Also they are reusing your LIM, oil injectors, fuel injectors, etc. and they don't clean or replace ****. So if your LIM, SSV, APV, etc. are carboned up then they stay that way when they are reinstalled on your motor. If your vacuum lines are shoddy they go right back on, f your UIM is full of oil residue it goes back on, if your fuel injectors are dirty they go back on, etc.

Bri3L6

thanks 9krpm.. i was just searching through a lot of threads to get a feel for how long I can expect my newly rebuilt engine to last and I don't really like what I see..

I'll keep up with the basic oil changes, plugs, and coils etc. but I guess in the end it's all out of my control. i never thought i'd say this but I might consider selling while I still have a running engine

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

A lot of people do sell, you have to be committed that is for sure. I got my last reman engine from Mazda at 96,000 miles and it died at 127,000 miles. I chose to spend (a lot) and go big with a rebuilt motor and turbo kit but for some, a blown engine out of warranty could be a life altering event. In my case, after the Mazda reman was torn down it was determined that housings were reused that should not have been reused but I would say that in general you could easily get 50,000-75,000 out of a properly maintained mazda reman engine.

MariesRX8

Which is why I've been sadly and reluctantly shopping for a new car, just as a backup plan, since my "new" engine warranty runs out in 8 months or so.

Still, if you figure our second engine gives us another 80,000 miles, then getting 160,000 miles out of our cars isn't really all that different from a "normal" car.

It's so sad though, I've looked higher and lower, and even cars costing much more still seem like a downgrade. There's NOTHING out there (which I can afford) which I could feel all happy and excited about. Perfectly respectable good cars sure, but nothing as unique, special and magical as the 8.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

To me, piston engines are fragile and time bombs waiting to explode. I've lost 3 engines among 4 piston cars I've owned. My 8 is still going strong after 89,000 miles. Driving a piston engine just feels harsh, painful, winded, like it's just waiting to die at any moment, and when it does it will leave me completely stranded. My Miata's 2nd motor is on it's last legs (115k on first, 3k on 2nd)

Give me rotaries. Sure, I know they will die sooner on average, but rebuilding or replacing is far simpler than piston engines, and even if it does fail, it won't strand me, because a failed rotary is just down on power. Even a catastrophic failure of a rotary is usually drivable

RX8Soldier

iTrader: (24)

^and that's why we call it "The Addiction"

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

Yep. Every engine only has a certain amount of puffs. But it's easy to speak about how great the Renesis is when you have not blown one. I love this car, but at this point it's really not a reliable DD for me so it will likely stay in the garage most of the time. My next new car will hopefully be whatever rotary powered sports car Mazda has in the works.

Bri3L6

I'm gonna put some money into it and get it back up into perfect shape, drive it for another year and prob put it up for sale..

I can just picture myself sitting inside some other non rotary front wheel drive car a year from now with tears in my eyes listening to depressing music yelling "this just isn't the same"

ASH8

No ...2 stroke Oil in your Fuel/Gas..is Pre-Mix...like 2 stroke Lawn Mowers or Blower or Cutters..

Bri3L6

ohh no pre-mix for me. I guess you can say that for the past 80,000 miles i just stuck to the owner's manual.

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

Yeah, that is why I kept my RX-8. I thought I wanted a new BMW 335i until I drove one a friend of my boss had at his leasing company. I would like an M3 but the mods for that would be much more than just continuing to mod my RX8 to near perfection. Nothing else really excites me (that doesn't cost $100,000.00).