Limp mode or compression loss?
07-20-2015, 09:44 PM
#26
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Alright ill look into thank you very much for the advice. But now that im putting it all together seems like today it was just being sufficated bad cat (most likely gutted) and crazy humidity choking the air coming in maybe tomorrow will be better if it was compression loss it would just die not start etc wouldnt even be able to reach 7k right? It would Struggle to get to 3k it didnt have that problem could be fuel pump so ill check that and ill check the seals with a piece of paper anyways wouldnt it have a bit of oil burnt to it due to the oil injection for the seals anyways though?
07-20-2015, 10:23 PM
#27
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Just ran it drove around the back roads by me like a maniac it stoped limping and is running like it should now and i did that paper test the papers clean besides where it touched my bumper
07-20-2015, 10:28 PM
#28
What.
I'm sorry, no this advice is half non-sense.
Apex seals don't hold oil so no to whatever was suggested about replacing them.
Redlining in neutral accomplishes exactly zero because you need temperature and pressure to burn off carbon and you don't get those without load on the engine. It's also mildly damaging if done a lot.
It does sound like your cat may be plugged, you can look under the car for a red glow. In that case you will need a new cat, and very likely a new set of ignition coils and spark plugs since that's what causes excess fuel in the cat to plug it in the first place. You also shouldn't drive the car in that condition as it will lead to further damage.
I'm sorry, no this advice is half non-sense.
Apex seals don't hold oil so no to whatever was suggested about replacing them.
Redlining in neutral accomplishes exactly zero because you need temperature and pressure to burn off carbon and you don't get those without load on the engine. It's also mildly damaging if done a lot.
It does sound like your cat may be plugged, you can look under the car for a red glow. In that case you will need a new cat, and very likely a new set of ignition coils and spark plugs since that's what causes excess fuel in the cat to plug it in the first place. You also shouldn't drive the car in that condition as it will lead to further damage.
07-20-2015, 11:25 PM
#29
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What.
I'm sorry, no this advice is half non-sense.
Apex seals don't hold oil so no to whatever was suggested about replacing them.
Redlining in neutral accomplishes exactly zero because you need temperature and pressure to burn off carbon and you don't get those without load on the engine. It's also mildly damaging if done a lot.
It does sound like your cat may be plugged, you can look under the car for a red glow. In that case you will need a new cat, and very likely a new set of ignition coils and spark plugs since that's what causes excess fuel in the cat to plug it in the first place. You also shouldn't drive the car in that condition as it will lead to further damage.
I'm sorry, no this advice is half non-sense.
Apex seals don't hold oil so no to whatever was suggested about replacing them.
Redlining in neutral accomplishes exactly zero because you need temperature and pressure to burn off carbon and you don't get those without load on the engine. It's also mildly damaging if done a lot.
It does sound like your cat may be plugged, you can look under the car for a red glow. In that case you will need a new cat, and very likely a new set of ignition coils and spark plugs since that's what causes excess fuel in the cat to plug it in the first place. You also shouldn't drive the car in that condition as it will lead to further damage.
07-20-2015, 11:27 PM
#30
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What.
I'm sorry, no this advice is half non-sense.
Apex seals don't hold oil so no to whatever was suggested about replacing them.
Redlining in neutral accomplishes exactly zero because you need temperature and pressure to burn off carbon and you don't get those without load on the engine. It's also mildly damaging if done a lot.
It does sound like your cat may be plugged, you can look under the car for a red glow. In that case you will need a new cat, and very likely a new set of ignition coils and spark plugs since that's what causes excess fuel in the cat to plug it in the first place. You also shouldn't drive the car in that condition as it will lead to further damage.
I'm sorry, no this advice is half non-sense.
Apex seals don't hold oil so no to whatever was suggested about replacing them.
Redlining in neutral accomplishes exactly zero because you need temperature and pressure to burn off carbon and you don't get those without load on the engine. It's also mildly damaging if done a lot.
It does sound like your cat may be plugged, you can look under the car for a red glow. In that case you will need a new cat, and very likely a new set of ignition coils and spark plugs since that's what causes excess fuel in the cat to plug it in the first place. You also shouldn't drive the car in that condition as it will lead to further damage.
07-21-2015, 07:20 PM
#31
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What.
I'm sorry, no this advice is half non-sense.
Apex seals don't hold oil so no to whatever was suggested about replacing them.
Redlining in neutral accomplishes exactly zero because you need temperature and pressure to burn off carbon and you don't get those without load on the engine. It's also mildly damaging if done a lot.
It does sound like your cat may be plugged, you can look under the car for a red glow. In that case you will need a new cat, and very likely a new set of ignition coils and spark plugs since that's what causes excess fuel in the cat to plug it in the first place. You also shouldn't drive the car in that condition as it will lead to further damage.
I'm sorry, no this advice is half non-sense.
Apex seals don't hold oil so no to whatever was suggested about replacing them.
Redlining in neutral accomplishes exactly zero because you need temperature and pressure to burn off carbon and you don't get those without load on the engine. It's also mildly damaging if done a lot.
It does sound like your cat may be plugged, you can look under the car for a red glow. In that case you will need a new cat, and very likely a new set of ignition coils and spark plugs since that's what causes excess fuel in the cat to plug it in the first place. You also shouldn't drive the car in that condition as it will lead to further damage.
07-21-2015, 08:40 PM
#32
tbiggybig, I wouldn't listen to Js000456, he/she is either misinformed him/herself or is a complete troll. Some of "advice" he/she gave was flat-out wrong. Read the threads that are stickied in the New Member Forum, those will set you straight.
07-21-2015, 11:07 PM
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Well anyways the humidity thing was right i dont know about the rest my engine was completely choked out cause of the heat and heavy air when it cold down and the humidity settled it ran perfectly again my cats gutted also so me and my mechanic were thinking sense the air was bad and my cat had bad exhaust pressure (or something along those lines) it threw it into limp and shut itself off its a tempermental thing he said but regaurdless im replacing the cat this weakend i dont think the seals are bad i still redline under load i figured out my engine likes it better that way i attempted to clear the cat a few times with high rpms drives and it would work out pretty well for like a week or so then it got a little more sickly like a little bit of a rough idle and trouble hot starting sometimes but after that drive it does better i was thinking maybe starter battery bhr ignition coils and a new cat would help i started with the starter now moving to the cat before i consider compression loss because it runs beautifly when its hot and if all those fail then i was going to seafoam it but im not ruling out compression loss but im pretty sure this was just limp mode i tried the paper trick he told me because what would that hurt
07-21-2015, 11:19 PM
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I went through there i know the dos and donts haha kinda disregaurded those right off the bat but anyways my next question is it harmful to run a gutted cat? I already know its bad to run a damaged cat but gutted can it cause problems?
07-22-2015, 07:03 AM
#37
Well anyways the humidity thing was right i dont know about the rest my engine was completely choked out cause of the heat and heavy air when it cold down and the humidity settled it ran perfectly again my cats gutted also so me and my mechanic were thinking sense the air was bad and my cat had bad exhaust pressure (or something along those lines) it threw it into limp and shut itself off its a tempermental thing he said but regaurdless im replacing the cat this weakend i dont think the seals are bad i still redline under load i figured out my engine likes it better that way i attempted to clear the cat a few times with high rpms drives and it would work out pretty well for like a week or so then it got a little more sickly like a little bit of a rough idle and trouble hot starting sometimes but after that drive it does better i was thinking maybe starter battery bhr ignition coils and a new cat would help i started with the starter now moving to the cat before i consider compression loss because it runs beautifly when its hot and if all those fail then i was going to seafoam it but im not ruling out compression loss but im pretty sure this was just limp mode i tried the paper trick he told me because what would that hurt
If your cat is gutted then there is nothing in the exhaust to 'choke up'. The humidity thing doesn't make sense to me, a few degrees of intake air temperature here or there don't make a difference on a modern car. It'll have most effect on cooling actually, so it would be good to understand what your coolant temps are at. On that note, do you still have the plastic undertray under the engine bay? It's critical for cooling.
IMO, if your car is sensitive to heat/humidity, it's not in 100% shape and we should look for the root cause. Plenty of people here from hot and humid climates and it's not common to see the types of issues you describe.
Also limp mode doesn't just happen, there is usually a specific cause that would get reported via a check engine code.
I don't understand what you mean by 'clear the cat', if it's already gutted there is nothing to clear.
Ignition maintenance is always important, and it should be done before you put a new cat on, otherwise you'll just cook the new cat too. The starter won't change how your cat runs, so if you don't have problems starting, don't worry about that for now.
07-22-2015, 04:47 PM
#38
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If your cat is gutted then there is nothing in the exhaust to 'choke up'. The humidity thing doesn't make sense to me, a few degrees of intake air temperature here or there don't make a difference on a modern car. It'll have most effect on cooling actually, so it would be good to understand what your coolant temps are at. On that note, do you still have the plastic undertray under the engine bay? It's critical for cooling.
IMO, if your car is sensitive to heat/humidity, it's not in 100% shape and we should look for the root cause. Plenty of people here from hot and humid climates and it's not common to see the types of issues you describe.
Also limp mode doesn't just happen, there is usually a specific cause that would get reported via a check engine code.
I don't understand what you mean by 'clear the cat', if it's already gutted there is nothing to clear.
Ignition maintenance is always important, and it should be done before you put a new cat on, otherwise you'll just cook the new cat too. The starter won't change how your cat runs, so if you don't have problems starting, don't worry about that for now.
IMO, if your car is sensitive to heat/humidity, it's not in 100% shape and we should look for the root cause. Plenty of people here from hot and humid climates and it's not common to see the types of issues you describe.
Also limp mode doesn't just happen, there is usually a specific cause that would get reported via a check engine code.
I don't understand what you mean by 'clear the cat', if it's already gutted there is nothing to clear.
Ignition maintenance is always important, and it should be done before you put a new cat on, otherwise you'll just cook the new cat too. The starter won't change how your cat runs, so if you don't have problems starting, don't worry about that for now.
07-22-2015, 10:19 PM
#39
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I had major issues with my 8 the last few months when the heat and humidity set in. It was nearly undrivable after 30 mins. The thing that finally fixed it for me was the MSP16 PCM re-flash.
07-22-2015, 11:08 PM
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07-22-2015, 11:47 PM
#42
Originally Posted by whitelight42
I had major issues with my 8 the last few months when the heat and humidity set in. It was nearly undrivable after 30 mins. The thing that finally fixed it for me was the MSP16 PCM re-flash.
By the way, keep in mind that while we get all hot and sweaty when it gets above 100F, the car cares very little about that. Especially your cat, it runs at 1600F. 20 degrees here and there isn't going to change anything. Your engine runs at 180-190F normally, it will notice a 20F ambient change in terms of how hard the fans have to work, and maybe in terms of fuel trims for the slightly less dense air but this shouldn't take it from fine to not fine... on a healthy car.
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