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How long should you wait for all the "excess" fuel to be burned when you cold start?

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Old 02-18-2013, 09:47 PM
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How long should you wait for all the "excess" fuel to be burned when you cold start?

How long should you have to wait for all the excess fuel to be burned when it's idling and when driving.

Ex. I want to drive it out of the garage and wash it, how long should I wait to shut it off?

And I looked everywhere for this info and couldn't find anything, so don't blame me if this has been asked!
Old 02-18-2013, 10:17 PM
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Drive it around the block twice, and you will be fine.
That's what I always do.

BC.
Old 02-18-2013, 10:21 PM
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BC is right just roll it for 5-10 mins.

of course staying under 4000 rpms till up to operating temp.

this is why having real working gauges is always a good idea/investment.
Old 02-18-2013, 10:22 PM
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Get your water temp up to 160F... that's a little over 1/3 of the way across your water temp gauge. To be extra safe get your water temp up to 180F (normal operating temperature) which is a little under 1/2 way across your water temp gauge.

Expect your oil to still not be at operating temperature. It takes another 5 or so minutes for your oil temperature to climb up to nearly match your water temp.
Old 02-18-2013, 10:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Porusski
...And I looked everywhere for this info and couldn't find anything, so don't blame me if this has been asked!
Did you look in the Quick Tips booklet that came with your car? Or which you can download as a pdf from Mazda's web site if you lost the printed copy?

Yes - I blame you for not having really looked.

Ken
Old 02-18-2013, 10:27 PM
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Originally Posted by ken-x8
Did you look in the Quick Tips booklet that came with your car? Or which you can download as a pdf from Mazda's web site if you lost the printed copy?

Yes - I blame you for not having really looked.

Ken
Thank you. Didn't know that way so don't blame me

http://www.mazdausa.com/MusaWeb/pdf/...MazdaRX8QT.pdf
Page 4/5
Old 02-18-2013, 11:57 PM
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For the years I have owned my 8. I can't count how many times I have cold started it and shut it down within 3 minutes without any failure to start after... Never once has my 8 flooded on me. Go figure.
Old 02-19-2013, 12:19 AM
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Originally Posted by SayNoToPistons
For the years I have owned my 8. I can't count how many times I have cold started it and shut it down within 3 minutes without any failure to start after... Never once has my 8 flooded on me. Go figure.
im sure its not required, but i wait until my water temp his around 100* and then i start driving it, keeping it below 4k rpm until it hits 170, and then i keep it under 6k, by the time i hit the highway its reached temp.

ive stalled my car before by accident at around 120* and it started back up fine.
Old 02-19-2013, 10:57 AM
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Originally Posted by SayNoToPistons
For the years I have owned my 8. I can't count how many times I have cold started it and shut it down within 3 minutes without any failure to start after... Never once has my 8 flooded on me. Go figure.
me too, but we are tempting fate.
Old 02-19-2013, 11:15 AM
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from what i hear, the year of the 8 has a little to do with it. my 07, in and out of the garage with no warming and never an issue. i heard 04 and 05 totally different story.
Old 02-19-2013, 11:24 AM
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wouldnt a catch can avoid this issue??
Old 02-19-2013, 11:28 AM
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To be more precise the "excess fuel" is actually burned along with the implied "normal fuel". The actual question you were going for is "how longuntil the ECU stops injecting extra fuel when cold". The answer to that will vary based on ambient temps, but the ECU stops injecting the extra fuel somewhere around 150-160F. I don't know the precise number, though I do know that running a 160F thermostat on other Mazda ECUs will keep triggering the cold condition maps, so it's probably not too far off for the 8.

Lvis, no, a catch can is to catch oil overflow into the intake. Has no direct connection to the fuel content in the engine.
Old 02-19-2013, 01:07 PM
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Originally Posted by RIWWP
To be more precise the "excess fuel" is actually burned along with the implied "normal fuel". The actual question you were going for is "how longuntil the ECU stops injecting extra fuel when cold". The answer to that will vary based on ambient temps, but the ECU stops injecting the extra fuel somewhere around 150-160F. I don't know the precise number, though I do know that running a 160F thermostat on other Mazda ECUs will keep triggering the cold condition maps, so it's probably not too far off for the 8.

Lvis, no, a catch can is to catch oil overflow into the intake. Has no direct connection to the fuel content in the engine.
i believe that the service highlights book says 65c coolant temp
Old 02-19-2013, 01:25 PM
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With that guidance, I went looking, and found this in the highlights:
P0125 Insufficient coolant temperature for closed loop fuel control
• The PCM monitors the ECT after cold engine start. If the ECT does not reach the specification in a certain
period, the PCM determines that the coolant temperature for closed loop fuel control is insufficient.

P0126 Insufficient coolant temperature for stable operation
• The PCM monitors the ECT after the engine start for a certain period. If the the ECT never exceeds 71 °C {160
°F} when the following conditions are met, the PCM determines that the coolant thermostat is stuck open.
MONITORING CONDITIONS
— Soak time: more than 6 hour
— IAT: more than –10 °C {14 °F}
— Vehicle speed: more than 10 km/h {6.2 mph}
— LOAD: more than 21.9 %

P0128 Coolant thermostat problem
• The PCM calculates the radiator heat radiation ratio while the following conditions are met. If the calculated
value exceeds the threshold, the PCM determines that the coolant thermostat is stuck open.
MONITORING CONDITIONS
— Soak time: more than 6 hour
— IAT: more than –10 °C {14 °F}
— ECT at engine start: less than 35 °C {95 °F}
— Vehicle speed: more than 40 km/h {24.9 mph}
Which implies that it needs 160F / 71C for closed loop operation, and implies then that below that it's adding fuel.

Doing word searches on the document I couldn't find any other reference that might be useful to answer the exact question.

Last edited by RIWWP; 02-19-2013 at 01:28 PM.
Old 02-20-2013, 11:47 AM
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Originally Posted by RIWWP
With that guidance, I went looking, and found this in the highlights:


Which implies that it needs 160F / 71C for closed loop operation, and implies then that below that it's adding fuel.

Doing word searches on the document I couldn't find any other reference that might be useful to answer the exact question.
works for me!
Old 03-06-2013, 12:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Darkness8
from what i hear, the year of the 8 has a little to do with it. my 07, in and out of the garage with no warming and never an issue. i heard 04 and 05 totally different story.
It depends on two things:

Make sure you have at least the MSP16 Flash
Healthy Ignition System.

With those two things flooding is near impossible. That's all there is to it.
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