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Did you pay for a compression test?
You don't just take their word for it.
You have to get 2 sets of 3 numbers for each rotor face on paper.
It's possible they don't have anyone that knows how to do it, or what to do if they do find it's bad.
Even worse, they could be hoping you agree to a rebuild, then charge you several thousand dollars for Zoom cleaning.
I used to work for an unethical shop owner who deliberately did deceitful things that amounted to theft, which I refused to do, so I know it happens.
I askes them to do it and they basically avoided doing it. They do have a rotary certified tech. Yes certified i know of others. Also i asked them about doing a rebuild and they just said its not worth their time and couldnt charge me enough to so it. I am just getting help from people i trust around here. And advice from the club. So stay tuned for progress. This may turn into a rebuild thread. Oh and i am doing a compression test with a standard tester. my friend is knowledgable do it this way. I agree its not the most accurate according to some members. But hey it a second opinion.
If your car will start by pulling it, and has power, drives like normal its not compression. The only way to tell is a compression test that uses a special tool not standard compression tester. Had this issue with mine but could not pull it. Check and clean your mass air flow sensor, and connections. Check your air intake from front of car, to the throttle body. Mass air flow sensor, air box, throttle body is more than likely where your idle problem is. As it not wanting to start, your starter like mine just got old and did not spin fast enough, could not tell by sound. My issue was oil was slowly getting sucked into the intake(expensive part cheep install) and the starter. This fowled the mass air sensor, air filter and throttle body. Also if you have seriously flooded it pull the fuse, plugs crank it till it quits blowing whit fog/mist from the combustion side, let sit for 24 hours open. Since this washes the housing and seals of oil put some 2 stroke(does not take much tablespoon at most) in the lower spark plug hole. This helps compression and your seals. it is mentioned in a TSB somewhere. I read it. Hope this helps.
If your car will start by pulling it, and has power, drives like normal its not compression. The only way to tell is a compression test that uses a special tool not standard compression tester. Had this issue with mine but could not pull it. Check and clean your mass air flow sensor, and connections. Check your air intake from front of car, to the throttle body. Mass air flow sensor, air box, throttle body is more than likely where your idle problem is. As it not wanting to start, your starter like mine just got old and did not spin fast enough, could not tell by sound. My issue was oil was slowly getting sucked into the intake(expensive part cheep install) and the starter. This fowled the mass air sensor, air filter and throttle body. Also if you have seriously flooded it pull the fuse, plugs crank it till it quits blowing whit fog/mist from the combustion side, let sit for 24 hours open. Since this washes the housing and seals of oil put some 2 stroke(does not take much tablespoon at most) in the lower spark plug hole. This helps compression and your seals. it is mentioned in a TSB somewhere. I read it. Hope this helps.
i have done pretty much all of that besides the intake mani (air box)off. The car now idels fine untill warm then struggles to idel and eventually dies. Wont start untill cool. Starter is new coils and wires are new and plugs have about 2000 kilometres on them. Ess is new batt is new redtop and even terminals are new
i have done pretty much all of that besides the intake mani (air box)off. The car now idels fine untill warm then struggles to idel and eventually dies. Wont start untill cool. Starter is new coils and wires are new and plugs have about 2000 kilometres on them. Ess is new batt is new redtop and even terminals are new
These are classic low compression signs, get a rotary specific compression test.
But you said it runs, just not at idle so it must have compression. Something doesn't sound right.
Half the guys on here are saying compression and the other ones are guys like you and me. Yes it runs and has lots of power (no bogging or stuggle up hills even from a stop) but it does not idel when warm. Just studders once or twice then quits. Only weak link is plugs. But to put plugs on a weak engine is just gonna foul them and be a waste of money. Any suggestions as to what problem could be. Or should i just bite the bullet and rip engine out for a rebuild
So i knew i burnt oil but i was never sure how much. Now i know why it was so much. Aswell as coolant. I was always toping up. I see what looks like a small oil leak. That would be bad for compression right. And coolant leak because always smoked when started until warm.
where was the coolant leak? it doesnt take much to ruin an engine if you overheat it. where was the oil leak? 8s are known to have a crappy seal on the oil pan
where was the coolant leak? it doesnt take much to ruin an engine if you overheat it. where was the oil leak? 8s are known to have a crappy seal on the oil pan
The coolant leak is inernal. And the oil leak is unknow exactly. There is oil everywhere as im taking the engine out
Any tips or advice is very welcome.
So thinking about the car all night. There is alot of wires and hoses. Just hope i can remember where they go. Im doing my best labeling but it doent work out as easy as that. When it comes time to drop it back in. Ill def need the assistants of the club.
Why do people keep saying search when i did. I read just about every diy engine removal on here. An watched three hours of videos. All i asked for was tips and tricks to make it go smoother. doing and reading are completely different. Like the little metal line coming from brake booster down to drivers side of engine by the oil filter. Never read about it and didnt see it on vids. so im just curious what it is.
Why do people keep saying search when i did. I read just about every diy engine removal on here. An watched three hours of videos. All i asked for was tips and tricks to make it go smoother. doing and reading are completely different. Like the little metal line coming from brake booster down to drivers side of engine by the oil filter. Never read about it and didnt see it on vids. so im just curious what it is.
Some things to keep in mind; aside from marking your fuel injector wiring harness with 100% ACCURACY (caps for emphasis), all other engine harness connectors are unique to the sensor to which they attach. The engine is installed in the chassis at the factory in less than a minute, so keep that in mind as to helping understand it is supposed to be nearly fool-proof for re-installation. Take photos of everything before disassembly. Pay attention to the engine harness as the wires will almost fall in place naturally if you do not mess with them too much after removal for rebuild. Go buy the Mazda engine build manual at your local dealer or favorite OEM website (#9999-95-E13B-MSP) and follow it exactly as specified. If you decide to custom-cut your side seals, pay STRICT attention to the fact that they are a three-axis grind/cut. If you do not know how to read bearing wear or measure it them with micrometers/calipers, you should not be doing an engine build yourself. Same holds true for torque wrenches.
I am not trying to be a dick nor discourage you but, if you want first-time success, these are the things you will need to know or master in order to build a nice engine for yourself.
Im aware there is alot of technical things when building the engine itself. That being said. I am leaning toward getting another engine ready to drop in. Due to the fact this one seems like it will be in rough shape (housings and rotor bearings i mean). So if i were to get a whole rebuilt engine ready to drop in where would you suggest i do so. I see alot of options. (Im in canada aswell)
Why do people keep saying search when i did. I read just about every diy engine removal on here. An watched three hours of videos. All i asked for was tips and tricks to make it go smoother. doing and reading are completely different. Like the little metal line coming from brake booster down to drivers side of engine by the oil filter. Never read about it and didnt see it on vids. so im just curious what it is.
The clutch line is back there....just disconnect the 2 bolts from the slave on the transmission and leave it there
06-13-2016, 05:53 PM
