The fight for my new motor
07-18-2013, 10:55 PM
#1
The fight for my new motor
Car is at the dealership right now. Took them a damn week to get a compression test done but sort of my fault told him i didnt need the car for the week anyway.
Anyways, manager calls me today saying it barely passed. Just borderline. Had a forum member (WCS some of you may know him) test at a meet last year and the front rotor failed (but not by much). The manager then tells me theyre trying to do another test, some voltage test but they cant get the car to go in "mode 6" w.e the f*** that means. And that he has to drive my car home and if i give him the permission. Not sure if it was an excsue for him to drive my car but i said sure no problem do what you gotta do.
Should be getting the car back soon and he will send the results to Mazda. My question is why the hell did they do further diagnosis and even bother sending the results to mazda if the car passed ??
Also WTF is a voltage test :S ??
Anyone whos done warrranty work can shime in ??
Anyways, manager calls me today saying it barely passed. Just borderline. Had a forum member (WCS some of you may know him) test at a meet last year and the front rotor failed (but not by much). The manager then tells me theyre trying to do another test, some voltage test but they cant get the car to go in "mode 6" w.e the f*** that means. And that he has to drive my car home and if i give him the permission. Not sure if it was an excsue for him to drive my car but i said sure no problem do what you gotta do.
Should be getting the car back soon and he will send the results to Mazda. My question is why the hell did they do further diagnosis and even bother sending the results to mazda if the car passed ??
Also WTF is a voltage test :S ??
Anyone whos done warrranty work can shime in ??
Last edited by Rotary-RX8; 07-18-2013 at 10:58 PM.
07-19-2013, 10:44 AM
#3
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Some dealers insist on a BARO voltage test in addition to the compression test. My first compression test failed, but passed the BARO voltage test, so they said "no engine needed". My compression was in the 4s on the compression test, at 220rpm I think, at sea level.
However, they had also done a Mazda decarb, and my compression climbed in subsequent tests, up to the low 7s. I don't know precisely how the BARO test is performed or exactly what it takes to pass or fail, and can only make assumptions.
However, they had also done a Mazda decarb, and my compression climbed in subsequent tests, up to the low 7s. I don't know precisely how the BARO test is performed or exactly what it takes to pass or fail, and can only make assumptions.
07-19-2013, 10:44 AM
#4
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vacuum test maybe?
07-19-2013, 11:07 AM
#8
^ I was going to send it to Mark at Scarboro but he was away on vacation. I got Avante to somewhat price match what Scaboro was charging. And i was due for a service so i said instead of doing the services let me try to get a new motor since WCS tested it last year and the front rotor failed.
Can a decarb actually increase compression ?? Im gonna pick up the car soon and find out if they were able to do the BARO voltage test.
If i get denied this new engine thats money down the F***ing drain now. And i gotta spend more to get the service i initially was due for
Can a decarb actually increase compression ?? Im gonna pick up the car soon and find out if they were able to do the BARO voltage test.
If i get denied this new engine thats money down the F***ing drain now. And i gotta spend more to get the service i initially was due for
07-19-2013, 11:20 AM
#9
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Here is my thread from a few years back: https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tec...s-fail-194710/ A bit wrong on memory of my rpm, which was in the toilet.
Somewhere I also posted my series of compression tests where my compression went up... i think it was in my decarb pics thread.
Edit: here
Somewhere I also posted my series of compression tests where my compression went up... i think it was in my decarb pics thread.
Edit: here
Here we go... So I was remembering the numbers slightly off...
April 6th 2010 @ 56,439 miles
Compression scores were
5.1, 5.2, 5.2 (250rpm normalized to: 6.0, 6.1, 6.1)
5.3, 5.1, 5.2 (250rpm normalized to: 6.2, 6.0, 6.1)
@196rpm
Decarb performed, compression scores tested immediately again:
5.0, 5.0, 4.9 (250rpm normalized to: 5.8, 5.8, 5.7)
4.8, 5.0, 5.1 (250rpm normalized to: 5.6, 5.8, 5.9)
@ 198rpm
Likely a slight drop due to heat saturation
April 8th 2010 @ 56,577 miles (2 days and 138 miles later)
6.2, 6.4, 6.6 @ 221rpm (250rpm normalized to: 6.8, 7.0, 7.2)
6.6, 6.7, 6.8 @ 225rpm (250rpm normalized to: 7.2, 7.3, 7.4)
June 19th 2010 @ 61,649 (72 days and 5,072 miles later)
8.3, 8.3, 8.4
7.9, 8.0, 8.0
No RPM noted, presumed in the 270rpm range as I had just replaced the starter with a new one. With that assumption, they normalize to:
250rpm normalized to: 8.1, 8.1, 8.2
250rpm normalized to: 7.7, 7.8, 7.8
Scanned dealer sheets attached. Normalization done with the factory compression calculator, here: http://foxed.ca/index.php?page=rotarycalc
April 6th 2010 @ 56,439 miles
Compression scores were
5.1, 5.2, 5.2 (250rpm normalized to: 6.0, 6.1, 6.1)
5.3, 5.1, 5.2 (250rpm normalized to: 6.2, 6.0, 6.1)
@196rpm
Decarb performed, compression scores tested immediately again:
5.0, 5.0, 4.9 (250rpm normalized to: 5.8, 5.8, 5.7)
4.8, 5.0, 5.1 (250rpm normalized to: 5.6, 5.8, 5.9)
@ 198rpm
Likely a slight drop due to heat saturation
April 8th 2010 @ 56,577 miles (2 days and 138 miles later)
6.2, 6.4, 6.6 @ 221rpm (250rpm normalized to: 6.8, 7.0, 7.2)
6.6, 6.7, 6.8 @ 225rpm (250rpm normalized to: 7.2, 7.3, 7.4)
June 19th 2010 @ 61,649 (72 days and 5,072 miles later)
8.3, 8.3, 8.4
7.9, 8.0, 8.0
No RPM noted, presumed in the 270rpm range as I had just replaced the starter with a new one. With that assumption, they normalize to:
250rpm normalized to: 8.1, 8.1, 8.2
250rpm normalized to: 7.7, 7.8, 7.8
Scanned dealer sheets attached. Normalization done with the factory compression calculator, here: http://foxed.ca/index.php?page=rotarycalc
Last edited by RIWWP; 07-19-2013 at 11:22 AM.
07-19-2013, 01:41 PM
#10
update:
Went to Mazda. He showed me the results and even after the decarb the back rotor (when WCS tested it was the front rotor that failed... maybe got mixed up cause mazda says its the rear) still failed. Im taking the car for the weekend cause i miss driving it then he needs it back monday for the voltage test. He will have an answer for my by monday evening.
Went to Mazda. He showed me the results and even after the decarb the back rotor (when WCS tested it was the front rotor that failed... maybe got mixed up cause mazda says its the rear) still failed. Im taking the car for the weekend cause i miss driving it then he needs it back monday for the voltage test. He will have an answer for my by monday evening.
07-19-2013, 01:44 PM
#11
Thanks for the info RIWWP.
This thread makes me glad I don't have a warranty, I'd run my car off a cliff and collect the insurance money before I would fight tooth and nail for a subpar quality reman from Mazda.
No warranty, you can replace it whenever you want and get the quality of any builder you want.
The downside, you have to pay for it
This thread makes me glad I don't have a warranty, I'd run my car off a cliff and collect the insurance money before I would fight tooth and nail for a subpar quality reman from Mazda.
No warranty, you can replace it whenever you want and get the quality of any builder you want.
The downside, you have to pay for it
07-19-2013, 02:12 PM
#12
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My car has been at the dealership since July 3. I was supposed to get it back today, but they said the engine just arrived yesterday. I wish I had an answer for you, but the front rotor had 0 compression for me, so no other tests were done.
07-19-2013, 02:54 PM
#13
Nice !!!
Im gonna be pissed if it passes the voltage test but failed the compression test and Mazda wont grant me the new engine. I dont see how a "voltage test" has to do with the core of the engine which this warranty covers.
Im gonna be pissed if it passes the voltage test but failed the compression test and Mazda wont grant me the new engine. I dont see how a "voltage test" has to do with the core of the engine which this warranty covers.
07-19-2013, 03:32 PM
#14
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I'm pretty sure it's just a voltage value of a specific sensor that they use to test the engine.
It's like people saying "I pulled 4.1v on my MAF!", rather than giving the measured g/s.
I think (emphasis on that!) that it's a test to measure the flip side of the compression coil: vacuum. I think it's checking to see how much vacuum the engine is pulling down under specific conditions. It stands to reason that compression and vacuum should be closely correlated, but also that there could be other factors that could bias one or the other away from a strict correlation.
It's like people saying "I pulled 4.1v on my MAF!", rather than giving the measured g/s.
I think (emphasis on that!) that it's a test to measure the flip side of the compression coil: vacuum. I think it's checking to see how much vacuum the engine is pulling down under specific conditions. It stands to reason that compression and vacuum should be closely correlated, but also that there could be other factors that could bias one or the other away from a strict correlation.
07-19-2013, 04:30 PM
#15
Update:
Picked up the car for the weekend still need to drop it off Monday morning for the voltage test. The manager kept driving my car lol he drove it twice again today to do some errands I guess.
Says the car is misfiring bad (not surprised) and my plugs were full of carbon. Coils were changes around 1000 km ago and plugs and wires at about 10,000 km. he was suggesting I change my whole ignition again if the new motor gets put in .
Do you guys think I can reuse the plugs coils and wires on the new engine ? I just got then brand new .
Also rwwip ya he showed me on the sheet what it is and it's just a single number and it says voltage something I forgot lol
Picked up the car for the weekend still need to drop it off Monday morning for the voltage test. The manager kept driving my car lol he drove it twice again today to do some errands I guess.
Says the car is misfiring bad (not surprised) and my plugs were full of carbon. Coils were changes around 1000 km ago and plugs and wires at about 10,000 km. he was suggesting I change my whole ignition again if the new motor gets put in .
Do you guys think I can reuse the plugs coils and wires on the new engine ? I just got then brand new .
Also rwwip ya he showed me on the sheet what it is and it's just a single number and it says voltage something I forgot lol
07-19-2013, 04:31 PM
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Wait till the replacement is installed before ordering ignition. Since it's new, there isn't much point in buying new again when the new engine could easily solve your problem entirely.
07-22-2013, 12:17 PM
#18
update:
Dropped off the car this morning and was told i would get an answer today but they still cannot get the "CAT reading". So they suggested me leave the car AGAIN. And let the tech drive it home and bring it back so its hot enough to get this reading. They dont know if its cause the ECU they cant get the reading or if theres something wrong with my CAT.
Manager suggested they just make up a generic number but realizes the issue might be the CAT and if a number is made up, then it might not fix the loss of power if it is infact the CAT thats the issue not the engine. As of right now one of the rotors is in the 5s and other rotor is 7s.
Beginning to want to sell this car cause ive had enough of this BS
Dropped off the car this morning and was told i would get an answer today but they still cannot get the "CAT reading". So they suggested me leave the car AGAIN. And let the tech drive it home and bring it back so its hot enough to get this reading. They dont know if its cause the ECU they cant get the reading or if theres something wrong with my CAT.
Manager suggested they just make up a generic number but realizes the issue might be the CAT and if a number is made up, then it might not fix the loss of power if it is infact the CAT thats the issue not the engine. As of right now one of the rotors is in the 5s and other rotor is 7s.
Beginning to want to sell this car cause ive had enough of this BS
Last edited by Rotary-RX8; 07-22-2013 at 12:19 PM.
07-24-2013, 01:34 PM
#19
update:
Called the manager today. They got a reading about 10 am this morning. They had to drive it on the highway .. not a big deal i said. I dont get why he didnt update me sooner. But he is in the process of sending documents to Mazda and they requested for service records so im assuming its looking good for a new motor.
Called the manager today. They got a reading about 10 am this morning. They had to drive it on the highway .. not a big deal i said. I dont get why he didnt update me sooner. But he is in the process of sending documents to Mazda and they requested for service records so im assuming its looking good for a new motor.
08-07-2013, 10:08 PM
#20
Finally after 2 freaking weeks after sending mazda the documents. Got a call today and engine has been approved !!!!
Will be dropping her off next week. I was told sometimes part of the "intake" need to replaced sometimes and that can cost over a grande. Anyone have to replace this "part" while getting their new motor ?
Will be dropping her off next week. I was told sometimes part of the "intake" need to replaced sometimes and that can cost over a grande. Anyone have to replace this "part" while getting their new motor ?
08-07-2013, 10:31 PM
#21
Mode 6 is an option in the IDS software, it tells you if car has gone thru enough drive cycles to show the dealership everything they need to know, if you pull ur battery recently, u not gonna have enough info in mode 6.
Baro test is really jsut a vacuum test. I forgot the exact parameters, but on the last recall they released a tool to test the vacuum, u plug it in and get a multimeter to read the voltage, if it's 14 or lower u failed, not sure.
Baro test is really jsut a vacuum test. I forgot the exact parameters, but on the last recall they released a tool to test the vacuum, u plug it in and get a multimeter to read the voltage, if it's 14 or lower u failed, not sure.
08-07-2013, 10:33 PM
#22
Finally after 2 freaking weeks after sending mazda the documents. Got a call today and engine has been approved !!!!
Will be dropping her off next week. I was told sometimes part of the "intake" need to replaced sometimes and that can cost over a grande. Anyone have to replace this "part" while getting their new motor ?
Will be dropping her off next week. I was told sometimes part of the "intake" need to replaced sometimes and that can cost over a grande. Anyone have to replace this "part" while getting their new motor ?
they are just trying to find ways to milk you more. depends on what kind of bullshit they wanna pull on you, just get ready to find used parts.
08-08-2013, 06:13 AM
#23
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Finally after 2 freaking weeks after sending mazda the documents. Got a call today and engine has been approved !!!!
Will be dropping her off next week. I was told sometimes part of the "intake" need to replaced sometimes and that can cost over a grande. Anyone have to replace this "part" while getting their new motor ?
Will be dropping her off next week. I was told sometimes part of the "intake" need to replaced sometimes and that can cost over a grande. Anyone have to replace this "part" while getting their new motor ?
Granted, the intake valving can be cleaned easily with the engine out of the car and if you were doing the replacement yourself I would totally recommend it. But replacement is very rarely needed, and cleaning doesn't cost a grand.