View Poll Results: WHAT TYPE OF OIL DO YOU USE?
5W-20
47
41.96%
5W-30
41
36.61%
OTHER (specify what oil you use)
27
24.11%
Multiple Choice Poll. Voters: 112. You may not vote on this poll
Engine oil! (what oil do you add?)
#1
AJ- THE True Rotarian.
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Engine oil! (what oil do you add?)
Need help! (Suggestions) I'm getting my engine replaced.. And I would want to take care of my engine very very very well... this time. I know that the recommended oil is 5-20, but I've been hearing a bunch of different recommendations from friends and other people on here in the 8club. I can't make up my mind... on which oil is best for my 8. Please vote on what oil you guys add in your 8's. I live in El paso, Tx where its very hot most of the year.
CHeck this out!!!
http://forums.automotive.com/70/6210...lem/index.html
Read what the "Old timer" guy says... I can see what he means... but not sure. what do you guys think? I want to know your thoughts on it. Is 5W-30 the deal or something else...?
If you pick (OTHER) - please specify what oil you use and why you use it? Peace.
CHeck this out!!!
http://forums.automotive.com/70/6210...lem/index.html
Read what the "Old timer" guy says... I can see what he means... but not sure. what do you guys think? I want to know your thoughts on it. Is 5W-30 the deal or something else...?
If you pick (OTHER) - please specify what oil you use and why you use it? Peace.
#3
Momentum Keeps Me Going
That story is so typical. People have had engine problems and want to blame Mazda, and in fact sue Mazda over Mazda supposedly "..not letting them use {whatever} weight oil". How impotent and silly.....people complain, rant and rave, bla, bla, bla.......but don't actually DO anything... that's insanity! And stupid.
If they think the cause of their motor failing is the oil Mazda recommends (not likely the cause, but easy to grasp onto and yell from the mountaintops), they need to put words into action AND DO WHAT THEY BELIEVE IS RIGHT ! It's THEIR car (unless it's a lease)!
You can change your own oil /go to any independent shop / use what you want. Has Mazda refused engine replacement because of 10-30w use? I doubt it....and if they did...well there's something to sue about.. esp. considering what they recommend elsewhere. Beyond that and wo/receipts, no one can tell what oil is in a car anyway wo/lab analysis.
What causes engine failure is fairly well known. People working at the re-man plant tell us what happens when they open engines.... people tear down their own engines... we've had race car teams tell us of doing rebuilds. The combo of reason indicates nothing about the weight of the oil being off 5-10 points is the leading contributor. You only have to look at the ECU OMP rate changes to the 04-08 cars (e.g., more oil at cruise) & then what they did with the '09 (adding the 3rd oil injector) to see where Mazda egineers are focusing. It's not the weight of the oil....even after all the failures....ummmmm... what could that mean????
Still, those that have other ideas when their engines fail, turn the page, do what you think best. No fuss, no problem, don't ask, don't tell.... after all it's YOUR car, YOUR engine, not Mazda's.
If they think the cause of their motor failing is the oil Mazda recommends (not likely the cause, but easy to grasp onto and yell from the mountaintops), they need to put words into action AND DO WHAT THEY BELIEVE IS RIGHT ! It's THEIR car (unless it's a lease)!
You can change your own oil /go to any independent shop / use what you want. Has Mazda refused engine replacement because of 10-30w use? I doubt it....and if they did...well there's something to sue about.. esp. considering what they recommend elsewhere. Beyond that and wo/receipts, no one can tell what oil is in a car anyway wo/lab analysis.
What causes engine failure is fairly well known. People working at the re-man plant tell us what happens when they open engines.... people tear down their own engines... we've had race car teams tell us of doing rebuilds. The combo of reason indicates nothing about the weight of the oil being off 5-10 points is the leading contributor. You only have to look at the ECU OMP rate changes to the 04-08 cars (e.g., more oil at cruise) & then what they did with the '09 (adding the 3rd oil injector) to see where Mazda egineers are focusing. It's not the weight of the oil....even after all the failures....ummmmm... what could that mean????
Still, those that have other ideas when their engines fail, turn the page, do what you think best. No fuss, no problem, don't ask, don't tell.... after all it's YOUR car, YOUR engine, not Mazda's.
#4
RX Lectriod from Planet 8
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Atlanta, Ga.
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After talking to some people whom I trust and who work on rotaries from street to racing, I use 10 - 40 dino. I live in a hot place......
Check this out if you have already done so.
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tech-garage-22/lets-look-expo1s-over-100k-renesis-motor-138402/
It covers a few valid points.
Check this out if you have already done so.
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tech-garage-22/lets-look-expo1s-over-100k-renesis-motor-138402/
It covers a few valid points.
Last edited by Hidef1080; 07-12-2009 at 06:25 AM.
#5
Registered
SPIN is right on the money. The typical engine failure mode is due to carbon deposit buildup in and around the Apex seals. This is a given well known in quality rotary engine build circles. Folks, this is a given. All you street bandit forum surfers can take this as gospel. This carbon buildup prevents the apex seals from moving in and out and results in loss of compression/loss of power. It does some other carbon buildup things but the vast majority of the time its the Apex seals. I have purchased and had tore down many a stock motor and seen it myself. The lower the mileage the less the issue. The type of oil you use has little if any influence on this. Motor oil is not very good in a combustion event. This is why we and other people racing this crazy car remove the guts of the oil metering pump thingee and then add 2 stroke pre-mix to the fuel (for engine seal lubrication). This is the same type of two stroke oil used in motorcycles, snowmobiles, Sea-Doos etc. The typical mix ratio is 1 oz. / gallon that if you use 1.2 or .9 oz. per gallon your still fine. (READ AS DON'T MAKE A STUPID POST ABOUT "My friend's neighbors uncle's dog told my sister that you have to use .875 oz. per gallon or your ECU makes the car go into limp mode and turns off the DSC at 112 mph and causes the stereo to switch to country music and...."). It's an engine guys. Just because its a rotary with a bunch of crazy valves doesn't make it the most unique thing in the world.
There is no need to reply to this post to debate this issue. Those who do will either add something of value in terms of small comments further detailing this issue. Those that will debate this are not in the know and most likely either don't own or set of metric wrenches or the plastic wrap is still on them because they've never been used.
Happy rotoring
There is no need to reply to this post to debate this issue. Those who do will either add something of value in terms of small comments further detailing this issue. Those that will debate this are not in the know and most likely either don't own or set of metric wrenches or the plastic wrap is still on them because they've never been used.
Happy rotoring
#6
Registered
and causes the stereo to switch to country music and..
BTW - for those of you who use both 5w20 and 5w30, you can check both boxes on the poll. That's why the sum of the choices is now bigger than the number of voters.
I'm thinking of starting a poll about whether any more oil polls should be allowed.
Ken
#7
Rotary Powered Countryboy
uh in texas i'm saying 10w30 MINIMUM considering how hot it's there almost all the time!....some of the southwest guys out that like in AZ etc will be chiming in to say what they use since their weather is smewhat close to what your is
#11
AJ- THE True Rotarian.
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what oil do you guys use/recommend me depending on a HOT AND COLD WEATHER. Do I have to switch between different oils depending on the weather?
#12
I've been using Mobile 1 0w-40 and will soon be switching to Eneos 0w-50 for testing purposes.
If you're not looking to remove the OMP then installing an adapter unit (such as the Sohn adapter) and running 2 stroke oil via the OMP would be another suggestion. Combine this with the accessPORT for increased OMP injection and you're set.
I agree that the oil which goes into the combustion chamber is of a higher importance than anything else. I would advise that the oil weight is going to the the most important while factors such as brand and dino vs. synthetic are of lesser importance.
As to what weight, that's left up to the individual. Best advice is to read on the topic and make up your own mind. A 5w-40 would be a great oil in my opinion.
If you're not looking to remove the OMP then installing an adapter unit (such as the Sohn adapter) and running 2 stroke oil via the OMP would be another suggestion. Combine this with the accessPORT for increased OMP injection and you're set.
I agree that the oil which goes into the combustion chamber is of a higher importance than anything else. I would advise that the oil weight is going to the the most important while factors such as brand and dino vs. synthetic are of lesser importance.
As to what weight, that's left up to the individual. Best advice is to read on the topic and make up your own mind. A 5w-40 would be a great oil in my opinion.
#13
B.I.G
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i use 10w-30 hopefully switch to either10w-40 or 15w-40 not sure yet. also im using RoyalPurple. Ive had a couple of oil leaks though.. i think i may switch back to conventional just dont know what brand. maybe castrol? or valvoline?? not sure yet.l
#14
castrol gtx 5-20w.
been using it since i got my 8. i was just looking at the service section of the owners manual...it says the 8 requires the oil to be changed every 7,500 miles. i have always done mine every 2,000-3,000 miles.
when do you guys change your oil
been using it since i got my 8. i was just looking at the service section of the owners manual...it says the 8 requires the oil to be changed every 7,500 miles. i have always done mine every 2,000-3,000 miles.
when do you guys change your oil
#15
Changing the oil every 3,000 miles limits the amount of this oil being in your engine. If you're going 7,500 miles you would need to be doing a complete flush every oil change and I doubt it's going to help the vehicle last.
#24
I zoom therefore I am.
I kill and squeeze fresh whale oil.. just have to learn how to avoid the greenpeace boats. Holding the whale over the oil spout is a bit tricky too.
#25
2006 WB AT
iTrader: (4)
I'm in VA and I;m sticking with 5w20 or whatever the Mazda place wants to put in it when I get an oil change.
The real question should be, those who had engine problems that require a replacement. Did Mazda do the change with no questions asked or did they give you any hard times because you did your own oil changes/maintenance.
The real question should be, those who had engine problems that require a replacement. Did Mazda do the change with no questions asked or did they give you any hard times because you did your own oil changes/maintenance.