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RX8 Club’s recommended maintenance schedule, more comprehensive and proactive than Mazda’s schedule.
30,000 miles:
- Replace Ignition coils
- Replace Plug wires
- Replace Spark plugs
- Clean MAF (mass air flow sensor)
- Clean ESS (e-shaft sensor)
- Reset ESS profile
- Clean power steering connections
- Clean battery terminals and clamps
- Replace transmission fluid
- Replace coolant (Mazda FL-22 is highly recommended)
- Replace air filter
- Replace brake fluid (fluid in the brake lines AND the clutch line)
~$300 USD in parts if you shop smartly
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My 2004 RX eight was misfiring. A local garage put in NGK 6700 and 6701 (N) spark plugs. The car continued to misfire so was towed to a Mozda dealership. The dealership says the problem was not using Mazda parts, and wants $1038 to take out the brand-new plugs with 0 miles on them and re-do the job. I wonder if the misfire code, after installation of the new plugs, could be due to some other problem. Help!
My Check Engine light came on this morning when i turned on my rx8.....Anyone have any ideas on what could be going on??
Tighten your gas cap.
If the light is still on come Saturday morning (assuming you drive it every day), go to an Autozone/PepBoys/O'rielly's and have them read the code/codes out. They should do it for free. Search the forum for that code and find out what the solution is. I'm sure it's been solved many times.
My 2004 RX eight was misfiring. A local garage put in NGK 6700 and 6701 (N) spark plugs. The car continued to misfire so was towed to a Mozda dealership. The dealership says the problem was not using Mazda parts, and wants $1038 to take out the brand-new plugs with 0 miles on them and re-do the job. I wonder if the misfire code, after installation of the new plugs, could be due to some other problem. Help!
Others correct me if I am wrong, but aren't the Mazda Brand NGK re-branded to Mazda before hitting the shelves? I think your dealer is bullshit, and you should ask them what brand theirs are. No MAZDA is not a brand.....
Usually you want to start with Ignition Coils, not the plugs.
If the light is still on come Saturday morning (assuming you drive it every day), go to an Autozone/PepBoys/O'rielly's and have them read the code/codes out. They should do it for free. Search the forum for that code and find out what the solution is. I'm sure it's been solved many times.
Go to advanced auto/oreilys/auto zone , they all read the codes for free then taker the code # and search on line for the definition on line, wala !
...aren't the Mazda Brand NGK re-branded to Mazda before hitting the shelves? I think your dealer is bullshit, and you should ask them what brand theirs are.....
Usually you want to start with Ignition Coils, not the plugs.
OEM is NGK. And personally I'd want to start by NOT taking it to a dealership. 😎
so I was driving and all of a sudden I smelled smoke and luckily I was near a auto shop and I checked under the hood and the ground alternator wire is melted and the copper is showing now, it's been a few days sitting in my driveway (I have been busy with work) and I looked at it again and there's green on the wire. But the problem is that whenever I start the car it's fine and I would drive and right after I hit 2-4K rpm just about every light on the dash board comes on and I loose power steering and all that goodness, idk what's wrong with it maybe the alternator is bad? but after I let off the gas it'll drop down to about 500 rpm and the car feels like it's about to shake off the road but then goes back to about 1200 rpm idk what's wrong with it. 2004 automatic
Just got back from the Mazda dealer in Escondido after getting a compression check on the engine of the 05 I purchased a few weeks back. The vehicle passed according to their standards but seems very low compared to what I've been reading.
The readouts were 5.6,5.9,5.7 x100 kPa @ 275 RPM and 5.3,5.5,5.5 x100 kPa @ 276 RPM. This seems low to me since the car seems to start fine and the only engine quirk I've noticed is that at idle the engine will sometimes kill itself if the AC is blasting.
How soon do I need to look into getting the engine rebuilt (109k miles)?
How soon do I need to look into getting the engine rebuilt (109k miles)?
Not very, IMHO. If it starts and no CEL, just run it. My engine has had "dead" compression for years. Runs fine.
You might check your catalytic converter. Your mileage is well-past typical clogged-solid point. Replace or hollow-out if it's clogged or collapsed. Otherwise it will kill your engine.
Not very, IMHO. If it starts and no CEL, just run it. My engine has had "dead" compression for years. Runs fine.
You might check your catalytic converter. Your mileage is well-past typical clogged-solid point. Replace or hollow-out if it's clogged or collapsed. Otherwise it will kill your engine.
The guy that I purchased the car from put in a new CAT a few thousand miles back so I should be good on that front.
Their minimum standard is 6.9, some even try to push it to 6.7. You are FAR below that mark. It's failing. If the dealership is dicking you around call MazdaNA
Who told you those numbers were KPA? Sounds to me like a tech who has NO ******* clue what they are doing.. Shocker right.
Their minimum standard is 6.9, some even try to push it to 6.7. You are FAR below that mark. It's failing. If the dealership is dicking you around call MazdaNA
Who told you those numbers were KPA? Sounds to me like a tech who has NO ******* clue what they are doing.. Shocker right.
Their minimum standard is 6.9, some even try to push it to 6.7. You are FAR below that mark. It's failing. If the dealership is dicking you around call MazdaNA
Who told you those numbers were KPA? Sounds to me like a tech who has NO ******* clue what they are doing.. Shocker right.
I tried to reply with the images showing both the passing and the read outs from the compression test but it needs moderator approval before it will show up. I was given images that the mechanic took of the device display during the test as well as the compression test pass as noted on the receipt/ work done print out.
If their standard is really 6.9 then I'm quite irritated. The values I typed are correct. At 275/276 rpm the values were 530,550, 550; 560 590 570 kPa.
Originally Posted by Williard
Their minimum standard is 6.9, some even try to push it to 6.7. You are FAR below that mark. It's failing. If the dealership is dicking you around call MazdaNA
Who told you those numbers were KPA? Sounds to me like a tech who has NO ******* clue what they are doing.. Shocker right.
okay well i did a bit of digging. #1 never seen that tester before, the one's i've seen were always kg/cm2.
however if you do the math,
5.3=530kpa
5.5=550kpa
either way, still failing. Maybe i should have done the math before i jumped to the "those numbers arent kpa" statement. i've just never seen them that way. Again, either way still failing.
Travis
Wankel, i understand motors will run WELL below the minimum. BUT it's failing and if he has a warranty he should get it replaced.
I'm not under warranty and I purchased this car from a private seller expecting a rebuild in the future; I just wasn't sure when the rebuild would be. I'm going to contact Mazda tomorrow and see what they have to say about passing me with a very low compression to confirm what their standards for 'passing' are. I'm also going to start looking at local mechanics to see if I can find a place with someone who knows a lot about Rx-8s and possibly get a compression test from them/ find out what they have to say about the read-outs I got from the Mazda Dealership.
Is there any serious risks with driving the car with the current compression rate?
And how long from its current state will it be until it actually fails? Or is there no real way to tell the rate of decline?
Originally Posted by Williard
okay well i did a bit of digging. #1 never seen that tester before, the one's i've seen were always kg/cm2.
however if you do the math,
5.3=530kpa
5.5=550kpa
either way, still failing. Maybe i should have done the math before i jumped to the "those numbers arent kpa" statement. i've just never seen them that way. Again, either way still failing.
Travis
Wankel, i understand motors will run WELL below the minimum. BUT it's failing and if he has a warranty he should get it replaced.
You can do periodic compression tests. I think you can get somewhat of an idea from watching vacuum pressure's as well. Other than that i can't think of anything off the top of my head.
You can upgrade your starter (if you dont have the newest version) which would be the N3R3 and can be had from Amazon pretty cheaply. That will help.
Their is a great debate over premixing and it's abilities so look into that.
Serious risk? Well you could throw a seal which will more than likely destroy that section of the motor and in turn leave you stranded.
You may want to check your regional forum and see if anyone has a compression tester in your area. I know when i do them they are MUCH cheaper than a dealer.
Are the stock ignition coil packs, wires, and plugs all OEM? Im getting ready to replace them with new ones and just wanted to know what brand to use Thanks!
07-20-2016, 12:34 PM
