Dumb Question Thread - no flaming or sarcasm allowed
03-01-2015, 11:26 PM
#4454
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It is the fastest, but "dumping" a few gallons through would probably not actually strip any carbon at all. Engine has to be turning, and hard to turn if it's hydro locked. 
"Feed a couple gallons of distilled water through slowly (and properly) to steam clean it" would be a more accurate statement.
"Feed a couple gallons of distilled water through slowly (and properly) to steam clean it" would be a more accurate statement.
03-02-2015, 05:26 AM
#4455
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^Correct. Use a clean container with distilled water. Put a vacuum hose in the container and attach the other end of the hose to a vacuum port on the intake. Bring the engine up to ~3k or so and be ready to work the throttle to keep it running while it ingests the distilled water. I would do a quart or so at a time, pausing for a couple minutes in between. Have a second or even a third person keep an eye on the exhaust as it tends to get hot.
Rotary Resurrection home of the budget rebuild.
FWIW, if you happen to be FI a simple AI system does the same thing, just much more gradually.
Rotary Resurrection home of the budget rebuild.
FWIW, if you happen to be FI a simple AI system does the same thing, just much more gradually.
03-02-2015, 07:49 AM
#4456
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I have steamed a few motors in the past, didn't really even think about it with the Rotary. Just not fully sure what will hurt or not hurt the apex seals.
New here yes, new to rotorys kinda, but new to cars or engines... Far from it.
New here yes, new to rotorys kinda, but new to cars or engines... Far from it.
03-02-2015, 08:24 AM
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Read this thread for decarbing methods I tested, what is effective and what isn't. I also have info on how exactly I set up the steam cleaning option. https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tec...r-pics-241867/
03-02-2015, 09:03 AM
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Read this thread for decarbing methods I tested, what is effective and what isn't. I also have info on how exactly I set up the steam cleaning option. https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tec...r-pics-241867/
03-02-2015, 09:28 AM
#4459
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And obviously removing carbon deposits reduces the chance of pre-ignition which could cost an engine. I run a AI system on my car. No pictures, but you'd be surprised on the difference it makes in reducing deposits on leading plugs.
Last edited by Signal 2; 03-02-2015 at 09:34 AM.
03-02-2015, 09:58 AM
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Like a vaccine, there is always some inherent risk...however small. Probably no more than "high revving" you engine. Regardless, benefits usually easily out way them. I've heard reliable reports (from veteran owners of high mileage engines) that they actually saw an increase engine vacuum/compression. Speculation is that carbon cleaned and allowed the seals to move freely within the grooves, allowing better 'seal' again the housing.
And obviously removing carbon deposits reduces the chance of pre-ignition which could cost an engine. I run a AI system on my car. No pictures, but you'd be surprised on the difference it makes in reducing deposits on leading plugs.
And obviously removing carbon deposits reduces the chance of pre-ignition which could cost an engine. I run a AI system on my car. No pictures, but you'd be surprised on the difference it makes in reducing deposits on leading plugs.
03-02-2015, 09:24 PM
#4461
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I've read every engine thread I can and still have a question.
From what I can see it's, it seems preferable to look at '06's and up but failing that, the '05's over the '04. ymmv
But assuming you find a great deal on an '04 with a replaced engine, here's the question:
The '04 engine was replaced at 60K miles and has a further 50K miles on the second engine (body 110K)
Assuming 10K miles per year per year, what engine would it likely have been replaced with in about 2010, a newer engine or a leftover 2004? In other words, a better engine or another potentially "defective" one?
I have seen the receipt and the engine is listed as N3H2-02-2COR-VO "replace rotary engine" and the rad was replaced on the same work order.
Assuming a compression tests passes, would an original '05 engine car with 50K miles on it be a better deal? So a replaced '04 engine or a non-replaced '05 engine, both similar mileage and showing good compression?
The '04 is a fair bit less expensive (2K)
Yes, I'd get a compression test on either one prior to purchase.
-hope this makes sense. I just have no idea what they replaced warranty engines with.
From what I can see it's, it seems preferable to look at '06's and up but failing that, the '05's over the '04. ymmv
But assuming you find a great deal on an '04 with a replaced engine, here's the question:
The '04 engine was replaced at 60K miles and has a further 50K miles on the second engine (body 110K)
Assuming 10K miles per year per year, what engine would it likely have been replaced with in about 2010, a newer engine or a leftover 2004? In other words, a better engine or another potentially "defective" one?
I have seen the receipt and the engine is listed as N3H2-02-2COR-VO "replace rotary engine" and the rad was replaced on the same work order.
Assuming a compression tests passes, would an original '05 engine car with 50K miles on it be a better deal? So a replaced '04 engine or a non-replaced '05 engine, both similar mileage and showing good compression?
The '04 is a fair bit less expensive (2K)
Yes, I'd get a compression test on either one prior to purchase.
-hope this makes sense. I just have no idea what they replaced warranty engines with.
Last edited by WNGD; 03-02-2015 at 09:36 PM.
03-02-2015, 09:40 PM
#4462
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I've read every engine thread I can and still have a question.
From what I can see it's, it seems preferable to look at '06's and up but failing that, the '05's over the '04. ymmv
But assuming you find a great deal on an '04 with a replaced engine, here's the question:
The '04 engine was replaced at 60K miles and has a further 50K miles on the second engine (body 110K)
Assuming 10K miles per year per year, what engine would it likely have been replaced with in about 2010, a newer engine or a leftover 2004? In other words, a better engine or another potentially "defective" one?
I have seen the receipt and the engine is listed as N3H2-02-2COR-VO "replace rotary engine" and the rad was replaced on the same work order.
Assuming a compression tests passes, would an original '05 engine car with 50K miles on it be a better deal? So a replaced '04 engine or a non-replaced '05 engine, both similar mileage and showing good compression?
The '04 is a fair bit less expensive (2K)
Yes, I'd get a compression test on either one prior to purchase.
-hope this makes sense. I just have no idea what they replaced warranty engines with.
From what I can see it's, it seems preferable to look at '06's and up but failing that, the '05's over the '04. ymmv
But assuming you find a great deal on an '04 with a replaced engine, here's the question:
The '04 engine was replaced at 60K miles and has a further 50K miles on the second engine (body 110K)
Assuming 10K miles per year per year, what engine would it likely have been replaced with in about 2010, a newer engine or a leftover 2004? In other words, a better engine or another potentially "defective" one?
I have seen the receipt and the engine is listed as N3H2-02-2COR-VO "replace rotary engine" and the rad was replaced on the same work order.
Assuming a compression tests passes, would an original '05 engine car with 50K miles on it be a better deal? So a replaced '04 engine or a non-replaced '05 engine, both similar mileage and showing good compression?
The '04 is a fair bit less expensive (2K)
Yes, I'd get a compression test on either one prior to purchase.
-hope this makes sense. I just have no idea what they replaced warranty engines with.
Boy is that a mouthful lol
I'm curious of this too.
What exactly is mazda doing when they tell you that they are replacing the engine? Because my 2004 has 23k on engine and transmission and 88k on body, so is it a reman? Is it whatever is new? Or is it a older style?
I have paperwork in the glove box maybe I'll have to read into it a little more.
03-03-2015, 12:50 AM
#4464
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So I had a look at a fan control diagram and found out that "after cooling" happens when the engine temp is over 230F. Does this mean that if the fans stay on for say 10 mins after stopping the car, the coolant temp is over 230F? :O
03-03-2015, 08:26 AM
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I just don`t know if they generally replaced with newer engines that were less problematic or another original engine that just delayed the inevitable
Engines were certainly replaced not rebuilt
03-03-2015, 08:58 AM
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So they are reman engines. A rebuilt engine would be at a dealer or shop. I'm sure we all get what everyone means but if it comes from mazda and isn't new it's a reman.
03-03-2015, 09:14 AM
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This is my paperwork on engine
Check out the bottom of the paper work
"All parts are new unless otherwise indicated"
Last edited by PowerBound; 03-03-2015 at 09:54 AM.
03-03-2015, 09:23 AM
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Maybe I'll call the dealer that did my engine to confirm. Any product that is re manufactured is required to be stamped that way to make consumers aware of what they are getting.
But...
I did read a press release from mazda stating that the engines will be reman or new depending on availability. So it would be best to ask the dealer that installed it which one you got.
But...
I did read a press release from mazda stating that the engines will be reman or new depending on availability. So it would be best to ask the dealer that installed it which one you got.
Last edited by PowerBound; 03-03-2015 at 09:53 AM.
03-03-2015, 10:44 AM
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Yes, that is a reman engine. $2,100 was the list price for reman engines for quite a few years.
The quote at the bottom is just generic text. If you contested the difference in court, the dealer would simply say that the part number defines a reman engine, not a used engine.
The quote at the bottom is just generic text. If you contested the difference in court, the dealer would simply say that the part number defines a reman engine, not a used engine.
03-08-2015, 11:34 AM
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First post!
well my first post here is gonna be in the dumb question thread. woot!
So the dealer i bought my 8 from gave me two sets of keys.
1) the factory advanced key with auxilary key, seems to be fully funtional aside from needing a replacement battery soon. (the red blinking light in the dash indicates this, yes?)
2) a traditional looking car key, with a mazda logo fob, as well as a keyless entry device (unbranded)
^^this second set of keys doesnt seem to function at all.... it will somewhat fit into the drivers side keyhole and trunk, but will not turn or open either one. the keyless entry device doesn't seem to be working at all either.
whats up with this? did they give me the wrong keys?
What keys are distributed to original owners from day 1?
just a little confused trying to figure out why the heck I have these extra non-functional keys.
I guess I'm ok, given that the advanced system works fine, but I'd like to have that other set working as a backup, yaknow??
thanks in advance guys
So the dealer i bought my 8 from gave me two sets of keys.
1) the factory advanced key with auxilary key, seems to be fully funtional aside from needing a replacement battery soon. (the red blinking light in the dash indicates this, yes?)
2) a traditional looking car key, with a mazda logo fob, as well as a keyless entry device (unbranded)
^^this second set of keys doesnt seem to function at all.... it will somewhat fit into the drivers side keyhole and trunk, but will not turn or open either one. the keyless entry device doesn't seem to be working at all either.
whats up with this? did they give me the wrong keys?
What keys are distributed to original owners from day 1?
just a little confused trying to figure out why the heck I have these extra non-functional keys.
I guess I'm ok, given that the advanced system works fine, but I'd like to have that other set working as a backup, yaknow??
thanks in advance guys
03-09-2015, 06:38 AM
#4473
40th anniversary Edition
well my first post here is gonna be in the dumb question thread. woot!
So the dealer i bought my 8 from gave me two sets of keys.
1) the factory advanced key with auxilary key, seems to be fully funtional aside from needing a replacement battery soon. (the red blinking light in the dash indicates this, yes?)
2) a traditional looking car key, with a mazda logo fob, as well as a keyless entry device (unbranded)
^^this second set of keys doesnt seem to function at all.... it will somewhat fit into the drivers side keyhole and trunk, but will not turn or open either one. the keyless entry device doesn't seem to be working at all either.
whats up with this? did they give me the wrong keys?
What keys are distributed to original owners from day 1?
just a little confused trying to figure out why the heck I have these extra non-functional keys.
I guess I'm ok, given that the advanced system works fine, but I'd like to have that other set working as a backup, yaknow??
thanks in advance guys
So the dealer i bought my 8 from gave me two sets of keys.
1) the factory advanced key with auxilary key, seems to be fully funtional aside from needing a replacement battery soon. (the red blinking light in the dash indicates this, yes?)
2) a traditional looking car key, with a mazda logo fob, as well as a keyless entry device (unbranded)
^^this second set of keys doesnt seem to function at all.... it will somewhat fit into the drivers side keyhole and trunk, but will not turn or open either one. the keyless entry device doesn't seem to be working at all either.
whats up with this? did they give me the wrong keys?
What keys are distributed to original owners from day 1?
just a little confused trying to figure out why the heck I have these extra non-functional keys.
I guess I'm ok, given that the advanced system works fine, but I'd like to have that other set working as a backup, yaknow??
thanks in advance guys
For people who lose the advanced keys, your dealer can use your key's code to make another set and then it has to be reset to the car's immobilizer system or the engine won't start. The dealer will charge a nice price to remake the factory keys and reset everything. Throw away the second set,they are useless, don't know why they give them to you anyway?
Last edited by gwilliams6; 03-09-2015 at 06:44 AM.
03-09-2015, 09:59 AM
#4474
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^^ thank you sir. So just to verify..
- You're saying if i had just purchased a brand spankin' new rx8 from a mazda dealership, the only keys i would've gotten are the advanced keys? (the big rectangle device with the auxiliary key inside) and nothing more??
It doesn't bother me so much that the spare keyless entry doesnt work at all, since the advanced key already serves that function just fine, but i am a bit disappointed about the mazda logo key not working. Q.Q
Hahah yeah i've already taken the battery out to investigate; i'd never pay a dealership for something so simple :p
As for the indicator light, i thought i read in the owners manual that a blinking red light meant the battery was running low in the advanced key? Perhaps theres two different indicator lights that we're confusing? The one i'm referring to is in the bottom left of the dash/ gauge cluster and has a key symbol on it when lit up. It blinks passively.
Edit: oh, and i got an '06 in galaxy gray
- You're saying if i had just purchased a brand spankin' new rx8 from a mazda dealership, the only keys i would've gotten are the advanced keys? (the big rectangle device with the auxiliary key inside) and nothing more??
It doesn't bother me so much that the spare keyless entry doesnt work at all, since the advanced key already serves that function just fine, but i am a bit disappointed about the mazda logo key not working. Q.Q
Hahah yeah i've already taken the battery out to investigate; i'd never pay a dealership for something so simple :p
As for the indicator light, i thought i read in the owners manual that a blinking red light meant the battery was running low in the advanced key? Perhaps theres two different indicator lights that we're confusing? The one i'm referring to is in the bottom left of the dash/ gauge cluster and has a key symbol on it when lit up. It blinks passively.
Edit: oh, and i got an '06 in galaxy gray
Last edited by Dokuji; 03-09-2015 at 10:13 AM. Reason: semicolons are crucial ;p
03-09-2015, 10:06 AM
#4475
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This document (http://www.rx8help.com/doc/tsbs/Key%...%20Carline.pdf) only has the middle generation RX-8 set of keys defined. The later RX-8s replaced one of the switchblade keys with the wallet card I believe. 2004 had separate key from fob, not integrated into the switch blade. All RX-8s should have gotten 3 physical objects that were capable of opening the doors and/or starting the car in one method or another.