Dumb Question Thread - no flaming or sarcasm allowed
#3926
Tool
My Car I backed up into a rock I put a dent complete with hole in the plastic a couple inches wide under the bumper between the tail pipes. Any suggestions I want to fix it my self?
#3927
Too old for PC
Repairing damage as you've described is VERY difficult for a DIY'er if you ever want it to look decent again. You can try welding the plastic or buying the Pep Boys products claiming they'll work for such a fix. But IMO the only proper way is to buy a new (or possibly a reman'd) cover. The ENTIRE cover should then be prepped and painted with special products to aid adhesion and keep the paint flexible. And that should be done with the cover OFF the car.
I've seen guys try to do it themselves...and never seen it turn out particularly well. If the rest of the car looks good, I recommend you have it fixed professionally so it stays that way.
I've seen guys try to do it themselves...and never seen it turn out particularly well. If the rest of the car looks good, I recommend you have it fixed professionally so it stays that way.
#3928
Wankler
Control Arm Bracket ?
just bought a 2004 rx8 and theres a bracket by the control arm that is broken, i move it around and doesn't look like it does anything, car drives perfectly fine so not sure what its for or what its called so i can replace it… does anyone know or could point me in the right direction?
#3930
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Lol I know this question is really dumb but I need to know. So when I start my car, the brake (!) light comes on just fine, but if I set the parking at any point, the light stays off. On my last MT I'm rather sure the light came on when I pulled brake (this car was 6 years ago), and the brake light comes on in my boyfriends new mustang.
So, is this an 8 thing? Or do I have a sensor broken somewhere? The brake itself works fine.
So, is this an 8 thing? Or do I have a sensor broken somewhere? The brake itself works fine.
#3932
easy come, easy go..
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Is having the vacuum chamber necessary? The nipple on the vacuum chamber appeared to be cut in half diagonally so air was seeping in and the line didn't have a good seal.
I removed the chamber and it's lines on both ends, capped the nipple behind the throttle body and capped the nipple where the vacuum line goes into the VFAD solenoid.
Obviously I did something wrong since it's still reporting that it's lean.
I removed the chamber and it's lines on both ends, capped the nipple behind the throttle body and capped the nipple where the vacuum line goes into the VFAD solenoid.
Obviously I did something wrong since it's still reporting that it's lean.
#3933
I noticed some minor scratches in the paint at the pinch welds, presumably the result of jacking the car up/down over the course of it's life. I'd like to apply some form of sealant to protect against rust formation. I'm planning on cleaning the area with phosphoric acid, and then spraying with some form of sealing/rust preventing spray (the car has an undercoating that is black so color matching shouldn't be too hard).
Does anyone have any suggestions for what type of rust prevention sprays they have used in the past and have had good results with? I have tried a few from the local auto parts stores, but never got good results (which may have been because the rust was simply too advanced by the time I applied the spray). I've heard good things about POR15 but I have yet to be able to find it locally.
If possible, I would also like to apply a the same (or similar) product on the oil cooler lines. I've been using WD40 and applying it twice a year, but I'm all ears for a more effective, more permanent solution.
Does anyone have any suggestions for what type of rust prevention sprays they have used in the past and have had good results with? I have tried a few from the local auto parts stores, but never got good results (which may have been because the rust was simply too advanced by the time I applied the spray). I've heard good things about POR15 but I have yet to be able to find it locally.
If possible, I would also like to apply a the same (or similar) product on the oil cooler lines. I've been using WD40 and applying it twice a year, but I'm all ears for a more effective, more permanent solution.
#3934
I am relagated to asking here because this is titled "Dumb question thread" right?. My question is....How does one up load a picture of my 8 for the avitar box?. I queeried "How to up load a vaitar pic and nothing was offered. I went to "Edit your avitar" but again there is no box or any thing to click on to up load a pic to use in the avitar box>?. Thanks for any help there.
Thought i had better come back here and say that upon a little more looking i found out how to up load pics by going to Edit profile picture. Thanks !.
Thought i had better come back here and say that upon a little more looking i found out how to up load pics by going to Edit profile picture. Thanks !.
Last edited by reni04; 08-27-2014 at 06:25 PM.
#3935
Wankler
Is having the vacuum chamber necessary? The nipple on the vacuum chamber appeared to be cut in half diagonally so air was seeping in and the line didn't have a good seal.
I removed the chamber and it's lines on both ends, capped the nipple behind the throttle body and capped the nipple where the vacuum line goes into the VFAD solenoid.
Obviously I did something wrong since it's still reporting that it's lean.
I removed the chamber and it's lines on both ends, capped the nipple behind the throttle body and capped the nipple where the vacuum line goes into the VFAD solenoid.
Obviously I did something wrong since it's still reporting that it's lean.
If the STFT rises higher than 15-20% at idle and drops at higher rpms, most likely you have a vacuum leak. If the STFT is close to zero at idle, but elevates to 15-20% at higher rpms, the problem could be caused a faulty or dirty MAF (mass air flow) sensor, clogged catalytic converter or low fuel pressure.
Make sure you have checked ALL the vacuum lines for cracks or disconnects. Also, check the entire intake boot for any rips or cracks or leaking connections, make sure the air filter box is properly closed, and check around intake manifold for leaks. After all that, sometimes the MAF sensor just gets dirty and gives false air flow readings causing the engine to run lean. Clean it only with cleaner made specifically for a MAF. If all else fails, as the Godfather said:If this doesn't show anything, you may have a O2 sensor fault, clogged or dirty fuel injectors, fuel delivery issues, or exhaust restrictions such as a clogged catalytic converter.
Last edited by Rx8 Dave; 08-27-2014 at 08:10 PM.
#3937
Wankler
I am relagated to asking here because this is titled "Dumb question thread" right?. My question is....How does one up load a picture of my 8 for the avitar box?. I queeried "How to up load a vaitar pic and nothing was offered. I went to "Edit your avitar" but again there is no box or any thing to click on to up load a pic to use in the avitar box>?. Thanks for any help there.
Thought i had better come back here and say that upon a little more looking i found out how to up load pics by going to Edit profile picture. Thanks !.
Thought i had better come back here and say that upon a little more looking i found out how to up load pics by going to Edit profile picture. Thanks !.
#3939
Wankler
Anti-rust coatings?
I noticed some minor scratches in the paint at the pinch welds, presumably the result of jacking the car up/down over the course of it's life. I'd like to apply some form of sealant to protect against rust formation. I'm planning on cleaning the area with phosphoric acid, and then spraying with some form of sealing/rust preventing spray (the car has an undercoating that is black so color matching shouldn't be too hard).
Does anyone have any suggestions for what type of rust prevention sprays they have used in the past and have had good results with? I have tried a few from the local auto parts stores, but never got good results (which may have been because the rust was simply too advanced by the time I applied the spray). I've heard good things about POR15 but I have yet to be able to find it locally.
If possible, I would also like to apply a the same (or similar) product on the oil cooler lines. I've been using WD40 and applying it twice a year, but I'm all ears for a more effective, more permanent solution.
Does anyone have any suggestions for what type of rust prevention sprays they have used in the past and have had good results with? I have tried a few from the local auto parts stores, but never got good results (which may have been because the rust was simply too advanced by the time I applied the spray). I've heard good things about POR15 but I have yet to be able to find it locally.
If possible, I would also like to apply a the same (or similar) product on the oil cooler lines. I've been using WD40 and applying it twice a year, but I'm all ears for a more effective, more permanent solution.
Last edited by Rx8 Dave; 08-27-2014 at 08:57 PM.
#3940
Too old for PC
In my experience with POR-15, it adheres/encapsulates rust fine, but it doesn't stick to painted surfaces very well. And it's hard and brittle. Although it's probably not an issue in your case, it also doesn't tolerate U.V. exposure and will discolor. The other thing about POR-15...and probably other such products, is that you'd better glove up. Once dry, it will have to wear off your skin. If your working upside down, a bunny suit might be appropriate.
IMO, you want to stay with something flexible...K I S S...maybe just some simple spray undercoating since that's what you already have.
IMO, you want to stay with something flexible...K I S S...maybe just some simple spray undercoating since that's what you already have.
#3941
Rx8 Dave: Thanks , you are probably correct . I will wait for a few weeks or so and try again.If it does not work them maybe i can PM one of the mods for an answer. My guess is you are right.
#3942
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Hey guys just maken sure my assumption is correct .... My passenger floor board, seat rails and center console has recently began to get really hot ... Enough to b quite uncomfortable to the touch the metal on the seat rails ... This is do to CAT getting crazy hot rite ??!?!? Bad "coils, wires or plugs" maken me dump fuel on it rite :/ ...
#3943
You gonna eat that?
iTrader: (1)
Hey guys just maken sure my assumption is correct .... My passenger floor board, seat rails and center console has recently began to get really hot ... Enough to b quite uncomfortable to the touch the metal on the seat rails ... This is do to CAT getting crazy hot rite ??!?!? Bad "coils, wires or plugs" maken me dump fuel on it rite :/ ...
Best to drop it & inspect it to be sure.
No CEL?
#3944
Senior Member
Hey guys just maken sure my assumption is correct .... My passenger floor board, seat rails and center console has recently began to get really hot ... Enough to b quite uncomfortable to the touch the metal on the seat rails ... This is do to CAT getting crazy hot rite ??!?!? Bad "coils, wires or plugs" maken me dump fuel on it rite :/ ...
If you end up replacing the pipe get it coated in ceramic, and enjoy cooler cabin temps and not having one's drinks reheated at stop lights.
If you need to, insulate the floorboard under the carpet with thermal tape, or high temp 3M HVAC duct insulation (200+ plus) You can tell the difference because good aluminium tape will rape your fingers and give you 1000 cuts when you try and apply it.
If you are dumping fuel, it isn't the cat. Fuel is the cooling agent in the combustion process of the RX8, it cools more than it actually combusts. If you are running lean or premix, that blocks a Cat. see how much your MAF can flow at WOT and take a log of STFT and LTFT and see if you can get 200g/s. Anything lower than 100 at WOT and I bet you have an issue.
Last edited by badinfluence; 08-29-2014 at 07:28 AM.
#3946
@badinfluence: You wrote "If you are running lean or remix,that blocks a cat. I didn't want to miss judge what you said there in that quote. Are you saying that premix blocks your cat?. I ask only because i have 92 plus thousand miles on my 8 and i have always premixed after a lot of research and any way my 8 has the original cat and it is not clogged. It would depend on a lot of variables like what oil did you use to premix with for instance. Just saying.
#3947
Senior Member
@badinfluence: You wrote "If you are running lean or remix,that blocks a cat. I didn't want to miss judge what you said there in that quote. Are you saying that premix blocks your cat?. I ask only because i have 92 plus thousand miles on my 8 and i have always premixed after a lot of research and any way my 8 has the original cat and it is not clogged. It would depend on a lot of variables like what oil did you use to premix with for instance. Just saying.
Running lean heats up the cat and makes it fail, but not necessary block it. Running lean, then rich could do that if there was excessive oil in the stream. Check out that MAF g/s to be sure
I screwed up that quote a bit. I meant the exact opposite. Unclean burning such as being very rich and running premix blocks the cat. Excessive Fuel and Excessive Oil togather will block the first stage of the cat. Running Lean would cause the cat to heat up, not cool down(Rich). So My guess is that is not the issue (running rich), and premix would actually cool the cat down.
I absolutely say premix, even on a Series2 like I have. I do between 250 and 150:1 and do 3 to 5 gallons of E85 and my car just keeps getting better everytime I drive it.
Fuel on the RX8 is mostly used to cool, not burn, so all your doing is throwing away gas, if you use lower octanes. E85 has less fuel volume, but when you burn it, is requires less of itself to cool because it is less dense and burns faster.
I use Petit's formula which is refined transmission fluid.
Sorry for the confusion, wanted to punch people friday.
#3948
Senior Member
So running rich the cat would not get as hot because it would be burning fuel in the exhaust stage, and cooling the core. Same with Premix.
Running lean heats up the cat and makes it fail, but not necessary block it. Running lean, then rich could do that if there was excessive oil in the stream. Check out that MAF g/s to be sure
I screwed up that quote a bit. I meant the exact opposite. Unclean burning such as being very rich and running premix blocks the cat. Excessive Fuel and Excessive Oil togather will block the first stage of the cat. Running Lean would cause the cat to heat up, not cool down(Rich). So My guess is that is not the issue (running rich), and premix would actually cool the cat down.
I absolutely say premix, even on a Series2 like I have. I do between 250 and 150:1 and do 3 to 5 gallons of E85 and my car just keeps getting better everytime I drive it.
Fuel on the RX8 is mostly used to cool, not burn, so all your doing is throwing away gas, if you use lower octanes. E85 has less fuel volume, but when you burn it, is requires less of itself to cool because it is less dense and burns faster.
I use Petit's formula which is refined transmission fluid.
Sorry for the confusion, wanted to punch people friday.
Running lean heats up the cat and makes it fail, but not necessary block it. Running lean, then rich could do that if there was excessive oil in the stream. Check out that MAF g/s to be sure
I screwed up that quote a bit. I meant the exact opposite. Unclean burning such as being very rich and running premix blocks the cat. Excessive Fuel and Excessive Oil togather will block the first stage of the cat. Running Lean would cause the cat to heat up, not cool down(Rich). So My guess is that is not the issue (running rich), and premix would actually cool the cat down.
I absolutely say premix, even on a Series2 like I have. I do between 250 and 150:1 and do 3 to 5 gallons of E85 and my car just keeps getting better everytime I drive it.
Fuel on the RX8 is mostly used to cool, not burn, so all your doing is throwing away gas, if you use lower octanes. E85 has less fuel volume, but when you burn it, is requires less of itself to cool because it is less dense and burns faster.
I use Petit's formula which is refined transmission fluid.
Sorry for the confusion, wanted to punch people friday.
If you can get away with gutting your cat, do it. It is nothing but a bitch on our cars. I live in a yearly testing state so I am not sure if I can get away without a CEL or not.