dannobre

iTrader: (3)

That listing doesn't include the oil cooler shrouds..

You will want to buy them used...they are durable and likely expensive

rx-fish04

Yeah I figured. As for the listing itself, is that a good price for the under cover and fender liner with hardware?

Nisaja

I honestly don't know jack about prices over there man. I live outside America. That link doesn't have the oil cooler shrouds though. I did a quick search on onlinemazdaparts.com and came up with these.

Undercover - Part number 9
http://onlinemazdaparts.com/parts/20...iagram=5455050


And, the splash shield behind the oil coolers (fender liner left and right) - Part number 3
http://onlinemazdaparts.com/parts/20...iagram=5455120

Looks like buying them separately is around $300.

I have S1 oil cooler shrouds for sale. In perfect condition, and almost brand new. I will be coming Chicago in 2 months. If you can wait that long, I could ship them to you for a low price

NordicSnow

This is a ridiculously dumb and unimportant question, but why does the radio firmware have to be over 9.55 in order to use an AUX hookup to the factory radio? Also, since my car has 9.53, is there any adapter I can use? Thanks!

ouimetnick

Because certain firmware versions are written (coded) differently. Sure hardware can physically connect, but if the software isn't written in a way for parts to communicate, then how's it going to work? Just because you plug in a fancy printer into your computer doesn't make it work. It's the software (printer driver) that allows it to work.

NordicSnow

That's what I thought. Is there any way for me to interface with it?

ouimetnick

Not unless you modify the head unit. I took mine out, located the daughter board (vertical PCB) dremeled the circuit traces connecting the audio channels (Left & Right) from the CD player to the main unit. Tap into that, add an aux cord, and be good to go. Just have a CD in so it will switch to the CD input.

I actually put a DPDT toggle switch to allow me to use my AUX input, or the CD input. Basically the switch bridges the traces I dremeled through, or keeps them broken to allow my iPod to go through.

I think there was a thread about it somewhere. Not sure. I did it to my family's Saab, and thought that perhaps the Mazda radio might have something similar. Indeed it does.

mazdafan1892

I dont care what anyone says I looked and looked and looked under the hood. The fuel injectors must be under the manifold intake. Its too far under to see. Standing in the front of the car on the right I see blue and red clips on black wires and I see some part on the left that looks like a metal piece to the railing but can't be sure. I know that earlier I mistook the coils for the injectors. Just the way they are lined up like that that I thought it was. But no. Whatever soon I am asking for a compression test. The car sounds like a faint piece of tape is on something. Maybe indicating the fuel injectors cause they are suppose to go up and down fast. Hot start issue is still there even though I DID read a ton on this site. Still am. Also searching I saw an read RWIP's post on the compression tests and how much is good. Where a super low reading would indicate the car is its way out. Oh well here is to hoping.

BigCajun

iTrader: (1)

Are you in the right thread?
Idk what you are replying to, or if there is a question in there.

Williard

iTrader: (18)

First off I'm going to say put a few breaks in there. It makes it easier for people to read and will get you a response faster. Although, so will placing a clear question.

From what I can decipher you are looking for fuel injectors. Well, when your facing your car with the hood open the injectors are on the left side (passenger side) under the UIM. To get to them your going to have to remove a few things. Oh and they dont move...

Unless you do something to fix the hot start issue it won't change. Slow or no Hot starts are a key indication of low compression. It can be a few other things.
Also with a hot start issue you can upgrade to a better starter.. it's like putting a bandaid on the problem.

I'm ALWAYS pro comp. Test if you don't know your numbers for varying reasons.

Anyway hope that helps.

Travis

mazdafan1892

Thanks bro, yeah the UMI is what I meant. I must get a compression test. Going to check with my mechanic. I did get a new starter which did help alot, meanwhile the old starter prolly wasnt the problem. I am going to get that compression test but I really feel its either the engine coolant temperature sensor or the fuel injectors. Autozone hooked it up to the OBD and they felt like the car was trying to get fuel. Thats what they said it sounded like. Idk, time will tell. I just pray its not a rotor on the engine going bad. I try to take care of it and I would hate to give it up.

HighKing17

I've recently put in an exedy hyper single clutch set and it basically has no bite till the last inch of the clutch pedal travel. Is there I a way for me to reduce the clutch pedal travel, physically if not mechanically? It completely disengage after about a quarter of the entire travel distance and if I could cut the total throw by half it would be great. Searched the forum but didn't get any answers. Thanks.

Elusi

Going to have my 04 RX8 compression tested in mid January. I'm having just a tad shaky idle issue and I read here it seems likely to either be a dirty MAF or engine compression loss.

But while waiting for my time at the workshop, which has to rent and wait for the equipment for rotary compression test, I can't help to speculate. And with that some dumb question arrises.

My idle issue only surfaces once the engine has warmed up fully. While "cold", idle RPM is way higher, staring above 1.5k and then dwindling down to what I suppose is around 750-800 once it's hot. Does this point towards compression issues rather than MAF?

It's really not a violent idle shake, but it's enough so that I can feel it and thus have wondered. The engine doesn't stall on me and I have no hot/cold starting issues _anymore_, but used to have occasional slow starts both while hot and cold (hotter were slightly more nail-biting) before I changed the starter as it turned out that it had the older slow one.

RX8Soldier

iTrader: (24)

What temps are you seeing when your car is idling high? Colder temps tend to raise the idle so the emission system gets to operating temps quicker.

Can you describe the shaking better? It could the the natural shaking felt through the transmission. Or it could be worn motor mounts, dirty maf (have you checked it?) or eccentric shaft position sensor (commonly ess).

Salmonella_6

Sounds normal to me. I had my engine rebuilt and when it is warm it idles around that RPM. The only way to make it idle a little higher then that may be to get high performance wires and coils.
I believe your engine to be good and by any chance if anyone has stalling problems after the engine has warm and then shuts off, check the condenser fan that it is working properly. It can cause a engine to shut off

mazdafan1892

So...it seems my mechanic wont test the compression. He strongly feels its a sensor. So I contacted the dealership. Lets see if they could help but I am not paying anything if they do.

mazdafan1892

Sup mazdadudes, it seems I figured out 1 out two problems my Rx-8 was having. Apparently I needed to change the plugs and wires, not all but when one relplaces one they have to replace the rest. Jeez, just got new plugs, cables and coils in 2014. Anyways, the new issue is with my rear, the car sounds funny when its at a deadstop and I turn it and accelerate. Like a rubbing or something. Any idea? Bushings??? Thanks!

200.mph

iTrader: (9)

ignition is only good for 30k miles at most and should be changed sooner than that. coils plugs and wires should be swapped together. are you sure its the rear and a tire?

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

Rub...likely tire?

Grind? ...could be a wheel bearing or the diff

mazdafan1892

Yeah sounds like the tire is rubbing against something. But ONLY when I had to make a really awkward or hard turn, mostly when the far is fully stopped. Yes a tire rubbing sound definitely. Hmm, what the heck could it possibly be. I mean....I know I am due for a rear differential oil change but I mentioned that to the dealer and they said they dont feel its that and for them to know they would have to take the whole rear apart and that would cost minimum like $1000 bucks, so I was like no thanks! I got to figure this out eventually.

Edit I dont think its the differential. It sounds nothing like this:

Could be this???

mazdafan1892

One more thing, if this helps. the car doesnt make smooth turns when fully stopped. If I say have to turn from an intersection to a side street the car will feel slow as I make a turn sometimes. Where as in other cars its more smoother.

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

Put it up on an alignment rack...jack the car up...and you can turn the wheels and see if you see anything...or feel anything

Usually if the diff is acting up it will make noises on tight turns...and be quiet straight

I really doubt the diff is a problem unless you have been doing a lot of burnouts The diff is pretty strong

Look for rubbed spots on the wheel wells. Check the brake backing plates....there really isn't much to rub that you wouldn't see

What are you running for wheels and tires? ( offset and width and tire size? )

mazdafan1892

I'll have to investigate and report back. Thanks, good luck. I wish I had a nicer mechanic though. Mine refuses to come near Rx-8s anymore.

jefferson9

noob question, when buying a A/C jump starter, how many amps do I need to jump the rx8 assuming the battery died over a long period of sitting? Also does it take more or less amps than the average sedan in the same scenario?

Bull8

Greetings All,

First off let me state that I am not currently an Rx8 owner (yet).

So here's my question: Does anyone have any experience towing an Rx8 behind an RV? By this I mean installing a tow bar (such as Blue Ox or Roadmaster) to the car and towing with all 4 wheels on the ground. My folks have used the dolly system in the past and I'd rather not deal with that set of headaches.

It seems that a MT would be preferable to an AT for this purpose. But, are there any parameters such as having to start the car after being towed X amount of miles?

I've been reading through this thread (currently on page 66 of 200+ pages) and haven't come across this subject yet. I've also performed a rudimentary search but would rather just put this out there.

I will now defer to your greater knowledge:

Cheers,
Bull