Dumb Question Thread - no flaming or sarcasm allowed
#4901
Just replaced battery after battery read dead. Car still isn't starting very well. It will electronically turn on but is very dimly lit. Turn the key to start and the whole car shuts down. I have to remove my wireless key from range and wiggle my contacts. Come back and usually on the 3rd try the car will start normally. Cleaned contacts, still having problem. I had to mess with the computer box when I cleaned the SSV. I don't recall hitting it or getting dust in it, but that is the best I can think of at this point. Check the battery harness and the cables all the way back. Everything is fine. What is causing this starting issue that occurred immediately after I replaced my radiator?
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Need a better description of what is going on here to make a guess on what it might be.
After a week.5 of driving the car with the AEM intake install, car is still much slower than when I had stock air box. Correctly installed. What should I be trouble shooting? About to put the stock one back in. I was told to give it a week or two but it isn't showing a bit of difference.
#4902
Professional Videographer
I am going to look for that SSV solution by TeamRX8. What happens if I can't fix it and it just keeps clicking though? Does it hurt anything? Will it fail and need replacing?
Dimly lit, like, the instrument panel is lit by 5% power. Like a flashlight almost out of battery power. But when I remove the wireless fob, walking away from the car till it doesn't get picked up by the car's receiver, and then walk back and jiggle the battery terminals, everything resets. I originally thought I had a loose connection but everything seems snug. Usually on the 3rd attempt, the lights will come on fully, and the car will start. I cleaned the contacts and the problem still occurs. I've checked my ground wire and it looks good. I don't know what I would have bumped to cause this issue and it is happening with a brand new batter and the old. I am going to get under the car again tomorrow to check everything and install the insulating foam on my radiator.
I actually asked AEM and Mazda if I would have had to retune it before I even got the intake and they both said no. So I'm a bit bummed now. How much does tuning usually run? I do not have a scanner unless my old DashHawk OBDII reader can read that. I've never tried though. Would you know if I can use it that way?
#4903
The clicking is a sign of a worn shaft and will cause a vacuum leak ... not much of an issue on it's own but combined with the AEM intake ..................
Dimly lit, like, the instrument panel is lit by 5% power. Like a flashlight almost out of battery power. But when I remove the wireless fob, walking away from the car till it doesn't get picked up by the car's receiver, and then walk back and jiggle the battery terminals, everything resets. I originally thought I had a loose connection but everything seems snug. Usually on the 3rd attempt, the lights will come on fully, and the car will start. I cleaned the contacts and the problem still occurs. I've checked my ground wire and it looks good. I don't know what I would have bumped to cause this issue and it is happening with a brand new batter and the old. I am going to get under the car again tomorrow to check everything and install the insulating foam on my radiator.
I actually asked AEM and Mazda if I would have had to retune it before I even got the intake and they both said no. So I'm a bit bummed now. How much does tuning usually run? I do not have a scanner unless my old DashHawk OBDII reader can read that. I've never tried though. Would you know if I can use it that way?
Then perhaps get hold of a scan tool and post up the results here. Dunno about DashHawk .
#4904
Professional Videographer
You jiggle the terminals and it resets ............... there is a clue in there for you .Replace the terminals with some solid brass ones !
Most people don't have an issue (that they know about). I would be pulling it apart to see if the screens were in good shape and tubes were properly aligned before doing anything else.
Then perhaps get hold of a scan tool and post up the results here. Dunno about DashHawk .
Most people don't have an issue (that they know about). I would be pulling it apart to see if the screens were in good shape and tubes were properly aligned before doing anything else.
Then perhaps get hold of a scan tool and post up the results here. Dunno about DashHawk .
Can you recommend a scan tool? Or maybe a place I can get a read out (Like AutoZone, Pepboys, etc?)? What am I looking for when I scan it?
#4905
Professional Videographer
Continuing:
Update on pulley. Taking it a part for the fourth time and I see now the crank of the pulley is what is wobbling. It is a very slight wobble, but it is there. Sooooo, is this a rebuild at this point? Or is there a way to remove the pulley crank without rebuilding? Does it even matter? I am guessing I simply didn't realize the wobble was there until I spent significant time in that area and assumed it happened after I cleaned the SSV.
Again with the terminals and contacts. Placed Brass contacts on there and the car didn't start again. Same exact symptoms. It isn't until I walk away with the fob before the car seems to "reset" to allow me to try another crank attempt. I got tired of dealing with this and moved onto the pulley and right now it is all taken a part so I won't be able to trouble shoot the electrical issue until the pulley is back together. I checked the bolts of the pulley and I feel it is time to replace those as well; one looked a bit warped around the bolt head.
#4906
Continuing:
Update on pulley. Taking it a part for the fourth time and I see now the crank of the pulley is what is wobbling. It is a very slight wobble, but it is there. Sooooo, is this a rebuild at this point? Or is there a way to remove the pulley crank without rebuilding? Does it even matter? I am guessing I simply didn't realize the wobble was there until I spent significant time in that area and assumed it happened after I cleaned the SSV.
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Update on pulley. Taking it a part for the fourth time and I see now the crank of the pulley is what is wobbling. It is a very slight wobble, but it is there. Sooooo, is this a rebuild at this point? Or is there a way to remove the pulley crank without rebuilding? Does it even matter? I am guessing I simply didn't realize the wobble was there until I spent significant time in that area and assumed it happened after I cleaned the SSV.
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Continuing:
Again with the terminals and contacts. Placed Brass contacts on there and the car didn't start again. Same exact symptoms. It isn't until I walk away with the fob before the car seems to "reset" to allow me to try another crank attempt. I got tired of dealing with this and moved onto the pulley and right now it is all taken a part so I won't be able to trouble shoot the electrical issue until the pulley is back together. I checked the bolts of the pulley and I feel it is time to replace those as well; one looked a bit warped around the bolt head.
Again with the terminals and contacts. Placed Brass contacts on there and the car didn't start again. Same exact symptoms. It isn't until I walk away with the fob before the car seems to "reset" to allow me to try another crank attempt. I got tired of dealing with this and moved onto the pulley and right now it is all taken a part so I won't be able to trouble shoot the electrical issue until the pulley is back together. I checked the bolts of the pulley and I feel it is time to replace those as well; one looked a bit warped around the bolt head.
#4908
Professional Videographer
If you take the water pump pulley off of the engine, you reveal that triangular like base that the pulley screws onto over the water pump. If you grab that triangular base, you can wiggle it very slightly. Here:
@ 13:41 you can see the pulley removed and that sort of triangular mounting base. That is what is wiggling, not the pulley. I forgot that shaft doesn't extend any further into the engine than the water pump. So maybe my water pump is just going bad?
I use a torque wrench and I found a thread that said I need to put them at 8-12lbs. Other than that, I do not know how to evenly tighten bolts.
Thanks for all the help, by the way. I'll try and find something that reads the AFR and I'll post them when I get them.
#4909
If you take the water pump pulley off of the engine, you reveal that triangular like base that the pulley screws onto over the water pump. If you grab that triangular base, you can wiggle it very slightly. Here:
@ 13:41 you can see the pulley removed and that sort of triangular mounting base. That is what is wiggling, not the pulley. I forgot that shaft doesn't extend any further into the engine than the water pump. So maybe my water pump is just going bad?
I use a torque wrench and I found a thread that said I need to put them at 8-12lbs. Other than that, I do not know how to evenly tighten bolts.
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@ 13:41 you can see the pulley removed and that sort of triangular mounting base. That is what is wiggling, not the pulley. I forgot that shaft doesn't extend any further into the engine than the water pump. So maybe my water pump is just going bad?
I use a torque wrench and I found a thread that said I need to put them at 8-12lbs. Other than that, I do not know how to evenly tighten bolts.
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So no , the water pump pulley flange shouldn't wiggle either . Sounds like it's time for a new water pump . I would expect the pump to start leaking eventually if there was play in the shaft like that.
As far as tightening bolts goes .... that's just a skill you will get better at the more you do . Put simply .... tighten the bolts up in stages ... for example : fingertighten ,then nip up lightly all around then fully tighten all around.
#4910
Is there an oil filter wrench for the OEM SII filter? Autozone sold me one that fit their aftermarket filters but is slightly too small for the Mazda one. I took it back and got an adjustable one but it's too large. I ended up having to use a screwdriver. I would prefer a single size one to an adjustable one, but anything would be better than trying to hammer a screwdriver through it when I have about 3" to swing the hammer.
#4911
Scrappy
iTrader: (1)
Is there an oil filter wrench for the OEM SII filter? Autozone sold me one that fit their aftermarket filters but is slightly too small for the Mazda one. I took it back and got an adjustable one but it's too large. I ended up having to use a screwdriver. I would prefer a single size one to an adjustable one, but anything would be better than trying to hammer a screwdriver through it when I have about 3" to swing the hammer.
Try looking for a wrench that's used on the newer subarus, their filters are supposed to be dimensionally the same (aside from some height difference.
#4912
This is my second oil change on this car. The first time, I screwed the filter on by hand as I've done with all my vehicles. They of course get a little tighter after being on there for a while.
#4913
Registered
Continuing:
Again with the terminals and contacts. Placed Brass contacts on there and the car didn't start again. Same exact symptoms. It isn't until I walk away with the fob before the car seems to "reset" to allow me to try another crank attempt. I got tired of dealing with this and moved onto the pulley and right now it is all taken a part so I won't be able to trouble shoot the electrical issue until the pulley is back together. I checked the bolts of the pulley and I feel it is time to replace those as well; one looked a bit warped around the bolt head.
Again with the terminals and contacts. Placed Brass contacts on there and the car didn't start again. Same exact symptoms. It isn't until I walk away with the fob before the car seems to "reset" to allow me to try another crank attempt. I got tired of dealing with this and moved onto the pulley and right now it is all taken a part so I won't be able to trouble shoot the electrical issue until the pulley is back together. I checked the bolts of the pulley and I feel it is time to replace those as well; one looked a bit warped around the bolt head.
Everything you've written about your electrical problems scream GROUNDING problem.
#4914
Too old for PC
Is there an oil filter wrench for the OEM SII filter? Autozone sold me one that fit their aftermarket filters but is slightly too small for the Mazda one. I took it back and got an adjustable one but it's too large. I ended up having to use a screwdriver. I would prefer a single size one to an adjustable one, but anything would be better than trying to hammer a screwdriver through it when I have about 3" to swing the hammer.
I only buy quality filters with good gaskets. And like you I only put them on hand tight. But I still need a socket to remove them easily. FWIW I like the cast metal filter sockets much better than the stamped steel versions. They don't flex and bend and tend not to slip as easily. But are also a little harder to put on and get off without a few taps from the wrench.
Last edited by Signal 2; 07-04-2015 at 09:20 AM.
#4915
Registered
iTrader: (4)
Water / methanol. Hit topic, I know. MM said it wasn't worth the effort, and that you could get the same results with careful tuning. I am not looking for power, I am looking for anti detonation protection. I know Brettus used it in his setup past ten psi. My question is: is power loss unavoidable, or do you have to add timing in order to make the most use of it?
#4916
Too old for PC
You didn't say specifically but assuming you're forced induction. If you're not looking for power then with a properly sized nozzle there is no noticeable loss of power in my experience. I am running water only post intercooler pre-throttlebody, M5 nozzle, on a boost activated system. And the car runs perfectly. Stock heat range plugs and stock ignition. I have no break up all the way to redline @ 11 psi.
And for what it's worth you also get carbon control and significant cooling with that set up.
And for what it's worth you also get carbon control and significant cooling with that set up.
#4918
Some aftermarket filters have a textured casing, presumably to make it easier to grip with oily hands. But that also adds a bit of thickness to the casing and I noticed my filter socket has to be pushed on with a bit more force. Could this be why you thought the first socket they gave you was too small?
With that said, I maybe could have gotten it on if I tapped it with a hammer, but I didn't have much room to work with. Surely there's one that just slips on no problem.
#4920
I have done dyno tests showing a loss in power lower in the rev range , but I have also done back to back logging runs and seen zero difference in acceleration . You can't rely on it when running at the ragged edge but I would concur with what Signal had to say.