Mr.Durden

Seems like this is a good thread to ask this. I just bought an rx8 and the kid told me it had some special tank system to add two stroke oil in the engine. Trying to figure out who makes it and how it all works. It's two small reservoirs on the passenger side fire wall.

Williard

iTrader: (18)

Epitroch


Travis

gwilliams6

Crutchfield: Car Stereo, Speakers, Home Theater, Pro Audio, 4k TV

Check with these folks. They have all the best brands on the market and their tech folks could tell you what will fit your needs and still retain your controls.

Gibby

Does anyone know the spline count for the 04 MT yoke?

mazdafan1892

Regarding the engine warranty, I just called a dealership which will remain nameless. I dont have the 8yr warranty anymore. It expired a year or so ago. But I am at around 60k mi and they said for an extra 24k mi with the power-terrain. They said, I would need to shell out at least $2k. I am pretty sure they guy meant $2k and not two hundred and something. Idk, I feel lost. What do you guys think?

gwilliams6

I would recommend you keep your 2K, and you can use that for any maintenance you need. Are you posting because you have a failed engine ?

mazdafan1892

Well I just had my car fixed by Mazda with the engine light coming up, I saw in the thread the warranty and I know engines are expensive. Also I have been using plus gas instead of super the last two years.

gwilliams6

Mazdafan ,you should always use at least 91 octane fuel. The engine will have less chance of detonation, run better and get better mileage, as its combustion was designed to be most efficient and productive with at least 91 octane. Only use lower octane in a pinch , then don't run the engine hard, and then fill back up with premium at the first chance.

Running your engine with only plus (lower than 91 octane fuel) for two years could easily have caused serious damage and degrading of your rotary engine.

Do you have compression numbers on your engine. (we have a thread and chart ,scroll through the new owners thread)

https://www.rx8club.com/new-member-f...t-here-202454/

If the numbers are good ,then we here can help you keep that engine running well so you won't need to replace it. If your compression numbers are low, there are still some things you can do to possibly extend the life of your engine. What is your year and original mileage on the car and engine?

You say you had your car fixed with the engine light on. What did they fix? What engine light or code did you have ?

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

If I forget and don't get back to you, I can give you that count when i get home tonight, or when i remember tomorrow morning. I have a clutch alignment tool that mimics the MT splines.


Bank the $2,000, and slowly add to it. A new reman is $3,300 (plus installation costs), it's not worth wasting the money on a warranty that won't cover a currently failed engine, and could easily fail after the 24,000 miles. The cash WOULD help with a currently failed engine, and it WOULD help with an engine that failed in 25,000 miles.

Octane is one of those things where if you don't have enough, the engine goes boom very quickly.

Gibby

The 04 Aisin AZ6 has 23 teeth and two keyways on the output shaft.

Gibby

Does anyone know the measurement from the output shaft seal of the trans to the rear diff flange? I'm trying to order a fabricated shaft through driveshaftshop.com and I was told to measure the incorrect stuff.

Team Tora Productions

No, I didn't know I had to.

Why did they seal it with that foam? Is it to prevent shock? I just checked mine after my initial drive and I don't see anything bumping into it at all. I also did not see any foam on the stock radiator I pulled out. That thread shows the stock radiator with foam on it and mine had none of that. What is it for? And where can I buy the foam? I just googled RX8 Radiator foam and nothing came up for purchase.

Can I get a heads up on how to properly torque down the pulley and the loss of power after installing AEM intake? I read somewhere the pulley needs to be torqued to 12 with a torque wrench but I still have that small wobble in it.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

"Sealing the radiator with foam" is talking about sealing up the gaps around the edges of the radiator, so air is forced through the radiator and doesn't have an easy path around the sides, top, and bottom of the radiator. The radiator's efficieny drops badly when the air isn't actually passing through it The foam is rather critical to ensuring that it does.

Just grab some foam strips from the hardware store, ideally one with an adhesive along one side so you can stick it to the radiator sides.

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

If your pulley is wobbling , it is more likely that you installed it incorrectly . You should take it off and try again.

Signal 2

^Yep. I think of it as keeping the air pressure higher in front of the radiator/oil cooler(s).

Upholstery foam works great too. I've got ~ 4" thick stuff...I think from a local "Hobby Lobby" type store. Squeeze it, cut with utility scissors appropriately too large for the given gap you want to plug and stuff it in. It's really dense, stays well and won't deteriorate. But if it makes you feel better a bit of clear silicone caulk will make it stick but easy to clean off if the need arises.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Radiator efficiency is directly related to how much air it can flow.

The volume of airflow is directly related to the difference in pressure from one side to the other.

The higher you get the pressure in front, and the lower you get the pressure behind, the better.


I've also used HVAC aluminum tape to seal things and adhere foam before.

Signal 2

Looks clean. Different solutions to the same problem.
Not the best picture, but you can see the foam stuffed on the far right of the radiator and the gap between the radiator and either side of the intercooler duct inlet. It's been there... probably close to 10 years now. I may try some of that tape around gaps at my oil coolers ducts.

mazdafan1892

Yeah I had the solenoids replaced. I will call Mazda and ask them if they have the compression numbers. I will check out that thread you posted. I dont know at the time knowing less than I know now. I remember I started using super somewhere in between but someone said the car can by fine on plus gas at the pump. So I felt I was in the right using plus gas(saving money) vs super. Started back on super. Car seems to run a little better. Also been revving the engine a couple of times to get it up to at least 6-9k rpms cause thats when certain components in the engine are fully engaged??? Less carbon build up? The car engine has been flooded 2x since I had it. Also had a tune up like 2.5 years ago and replaced the spark plugs, coils, wires.

Thanks for your help. Much appreciated.

Steve Dallas

I used pipe insulation from Home Depot and glued it in place with high temperature RTV. The other guys have covered the rest.

ColtonJiran

Alright, I'll start off by saying that I've looked everywhere for some kind of explanation for this but maybe I'm just an idiot. I've tried to diagnose it being a misfire but it just doesn't seem right. I have fairly good knowledge of how to drive and sustain these cars for their lifetime but not when they fail..

I have a 2007 RX8 Automatic 6 speed with 87k miles.

I'm not too familiar with the engine of this car but I know a good little amount. I owned a 2005 with 50k and drove it til about 100k with no problems at all (Besides the group of sheep that decimated it. Lol) so, I've never had to really deal with major issues like this before, so excuse my ignorance.

Anyways, on my way into town, about 15 minutes into my drive, the car starts to wobble back and forth (slightly) when changing gears (engine light starts to blink yellow). When I get to the nearest stop light, the engine cuts off when I start to idle. I quickly put it into park and start it up again and drive back home with no problems (engine light on but not blinking). Later on I had to go back into town for somewhat of an emergency (engine light still on but not blinking). About 5-10 minutes into the drive I had the same problem but far worse. It felt like the rotors weren't talking to each other or something. Anyways, I felt like I needed to stop on the side of the road to be safe (about 30 minutes each time). Every time I did, the engine would cut off like before (blinking engine light every time). When I got it up and running, it would be fine for 10 seconds then automatically go back to fubar mode. It almost wouldn't accelerate at all. I barely made it home and it was smoking quite a bit. To me, it smelt like burning coolant but I could be wrong. The radiator light has been on since the day I got it but I figured it was just a bad sensor, so I've never gave it too much mind. I change my oil more than often and keep my coolant and gas filled at all times.

Any thoughts?

Mr.Durden

Anyone have info on a DIY to fix a stripped screw that holds the plastic cover on the door handle? Its stripped out and causes it to rattle. Trying to figure out how to fix it.

handisnacks

I'm hoping this goes here, it's not so much dumb as just seeking advice. I really want an '09+ RX-8 but am having trouble locating ANY in Northern California. There is however a pretty nice '05 silver Shinka available in my area. It has 123k miles on it though and that worries me. What should I check when inspecting it? Should I ask for a compression test? If they don't offer a compression test should I just walk? I really don't want to fork out the money for it myself...

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Flashing CEL = Misfire. EVERY time, no exceptions.

See here, start working through them: https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tec...t-here-222280/

See this for your questions on what to ask, what to expect if they can't do a compression test, etc... https://www.rx8club.com/new-member-f...t-here-202454/ There is a menu at the top with links so you can skip as much important information as you want to get to the parts that answer your current question.

handisnacks

It said in that long read-through that the Shinka only came in a dark candy red color. Am I to assume that this one I'm looking at (which is the silver color) has been repainted? Or did the Shinka come in multiple colors?

Team Tora Productions

Cleaned the SSV but the clicking sound I thought it caused still comes back when the car heats up and the noise is more closer to behind the Alternator rather than where the SSV is at. What could be clicking? Started clicking after AEM intake install.

Just replaced battery after battery read dead. Car still isn't starting very well. It will electronically turn on but is very dimly lit. Turn the key to start and the whole car shuts down. I have to remove my wireless key from range and wiggle my contacts. Come back and usually on the 3rd try the car will start normally. Cleaned contacts, still having problem. I had to mess with the computer box when I cleaned the SSV. I don't recall hitting it or getting dust in it, but that is the best I can think of at this point. Check the battery harness and the cables all the way back. Everything is fine. What is causing this starting issue that occurred immediately after I replaced my radiator?

After a week.5 of driving the car with the AEM intake install, car is still much slower than when I had stock air box. Correctly installed. What should I be trouble shooting? About to put the stock one back in. I was told to give it a week or two but it isn't showing a bit of difference.