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Old 09-18-2014, 06:53 AM
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Is there a prize for being the 4001th reply?
Old 09-18-2014, 07:04 AM
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Originally Posted by paimon.soror
On a NA engine you technically wouldn't see 100% load realistically, granted your calculated load will be 100% when slamming WOT your actual measured load may very well be around 90-95%. It would take an engine operating under maximum efficiency with matched intake and exhaust components to get close to 100% of the full engine's measured load (i.e. think race built engines). That being said, your engine load is typically a calculation of "actual air mass / theoretical air mass". The only time your actual would exceed theoretical is on boosted applications. It is essentially a safety net built into the OE ECU.
What is the typical percentage adjustment?

-20% Calculated? I am sure the Limit of the MSP is the injectors or Fuel system, I was just curious of how much Mazda held it back on the stock setup/tune.
Old 09-18-2014, 07:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Aston177
So you're saying that the SSV is making a tapping noise because of a vacuum leake?
[Derp][Derp][Derp][Derp][Derp][Derp][Derp][Derp][Derp][Derp][Derp][Derp][Derp][Derp][Derp][Derp][Derp][Derp][Derp][Derp][Derp][Derp][Derp][Derp][Derp][Derp][Derp][Derp][Derp][Derp][Derp][Derp][Derp][Derp][Derp][Derp][Derp][Derp][Derp][Derp]

Edit: A vac leak is still possible, I had the VFAD and SSV mixed up but the principle stands. There are a ton of hoses on the RX8 for all the pneumatic operations. They are vital to the operation of the engine because it is an air pump.

Last edited by badinfluence; 09-18-2014 at 11:06 AM.
Old 09-18-2014, 09:00 AM
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Originally Posted by badinfluence
There is a simple connector under the intake with a green connector on it. Remove it.


SSV is designed to make the RX8 sound less like a vacuum cleaner, some argue the SSV makes no difference power. The ppl Pm RX8 has a ton of vac hoses, so if one is leaking, it throws the whole mess off.

The RX8 and low end power aren't two words that go together. Some engines struggle to break 100 ft pounds at the wheels. (1:1 Ratio)
There is so much misinformation in this string of posts. You seem to have the SSV mixed up with the VFAD
Proper SSV operation is critical for the motor to work correctly
Old 09-18-2014, 11:00 AM
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Originally Posted by dannobre
There is so much misinformation in this string of posts. You seem to have the SSV mixed up with the VFAD
Proper SSV operation is critical for the motor to work correctly
Nope you are 100% right, I fucked that one up good. I fixed my posts.... Feeling quite cocky now.

Thanks for not being a dick about it, that was definitely my mistake.




Op check the hoses for cracks or oil. Then search for how it works. Don't listen to me on SSVs.

Last edited by badinfluence; 09-18-2014 at 11:08 AM.
Old 09-18-2014, 12:16 PM
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Originally Posted by badinfluence
What is the typical percentage adjustment?

-20% Calculated? I am sure the Limit of the MSP is the injectors or Fuel system, I was just curious of how much Mazda held it back on the stock setup/tune.
There really is not a set adjustment, what i stated was nothing more than an FYI of what engine load really means.

As far as how much the engine is 'held back' is a different topic of discussion (load is not proportionate to maximum output/performance)
Old 09-18-2014, 02:51 PM
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Ok, I'm a new Rx8 owner and I have a few questions. Soon after I bought it my CEL came on; I had it checked out and it was P004 and another code for an emissions leak. I know the P004 is a valve stuck open. Both the codes went away after a few days and came back then went away again. Should I be worried about it? I'm guessing the previous owner babied the car to much because I researched that the valve opens at what 6.7k RPM? So if I run the car a bit harder for awhile and it doesn't come back am I all good?

Edit: on a side note my AC and heat will come on and off randomly when set, would it be my thermometer?

Last edited by Baukara; 09-18-2014 at 03:02 PM.
Old 09-19-2014, 07:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Baukara
Ok, I'm a new Rx8 owner and I have a few questions. Soon after I bought it my CEL came on; I had it checked out and it was P004 and another code for an emissions leak. I know the P004 is a valve stuck open. Both the codes went away after a few days and came back then went away again. Should I be worried about it? I'm guessing the previous owner babied the car to much because I researched that the valve opens at what 6.7k RPM? So if I run the car a bit harder for awhile and it doesn't come back am I all good?

Edit: on a side note my AC and heat will come on and off randomly when set, would it be my thermometer?
Check out the newbie thread and reset your climate control computer. It is in that thread. (A/C thing)

No one babies an RX8, and if they did it is your problem. To properly calibrate the car it must be driven through all levels of load. You more than likely are looking at a carbon build up problem. That is in the Newbie thread aswell. It is a good read, I am not hazing you by telling you to read it, it has good stuff in it. That is below, also paimon.soror signature above.

In the mean time, there are a few options for Carbon Clean up. RIWWP has a good tuturiol if you have a Series 1 (04-08), and if you have a 09-11, it is a bit different because the port needed was removed from the intake manifold. To clean my 09 I use a bit of transmission fluid in the oil, a bit in the gas, and 1 to 3 gallons of E85. I premix 250:1 and do 2 gallons of E85 and the car idles smooth and blows the carbon **** out the back of the car at 7k. If you have a Series 1, avoid the E85 bit because the Series II has a better fuel pump and that series 1. You are not using the E85 as a fuel, so it will require more from the fuel pump than just gas.

Emissions problems can be causes by a number of vac hoses in the RX8, but start with the basics because you should do them anyway. (In this order)
Compression test (Always get one to know where you stand)
Carbon Cleaning
Oil Change (Helps remove the stuck carbon left from cleaning)
Premix a bit (helps regain some compression if your apex seals are NOT broken)
Then if the code persists get a dealer to look at it. If you bought it recently look at an extended warranty. From a credit union an extended warranty with a 0 deduct is about 1100 vs a dealer that will want 4k and make 3k profit. Gap is also 199 from a credit union so get that too.

New and Potential Owners START HERE!
https://www.rx8club.com/rx-8-discuss...t-here-202454/
Newbie's Guide to Modding the RX-8
https://www.rx8club.com/rx-8-discuss...rx-8-a-233937/
RX-8 Symptoms and Causes
https://www.rx8club.com/new-member-f...causes-249529/

Last edited by badinfluence; 09-19-2014 at 07:13 AM.
Old 09-19-2014, 02:13 PM
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My car fan runs quite a bit longer after I turn the car off. Sometimes for up to 15 minutes. I've read that people have done mods to they're RX-8 so help with it flooding when driving short distances. Is that why? Do all RX-8's do that? Just kind of curious. When I drive short distances I try to at least get the RPMs above 6000 because a friend told me I should. Just trying to make sure I'm treating my baby correctly
Old 09-19-2014, 02:17 PM
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your fans staying on is normal and has nothing to do with flooding. if you drive short distances dont get on it until its fully warmed up. once its at temp redline away.
Old 09-19-2014, 07:55 PM
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Originally Posted by QuiK615
My car fan runs quite a bit longer after I turn the car off. Sometimes for up to 15 minutes. I've read that people have done mods to they're RX-8 so help with it flooding when driving short distances. Is that why? Do all RX-8's do that? Just kind of curious. When I drive short distances I try to at least get the RPMs above 6000 because a friend told me I should. Just trying to make sure I'm treating my baby correctly
Better Starter, and OMP adjustments help too.
Old 09-20-2014, 04:55 PM
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Sorry for the dumb question... but here goes. I bought a set of RPF1's in 18x9.5 + 45 a while back and I am just now getting a chance to put them on. I assumed that the stock lug nuts would work, but they do not! I bought them used from a member here so they didnt come with lugs. Anyhow, there are A LOT of options out there. What do I really need? "tuner" style? Extended lug? Its all got me very confused. I just want to know what Im supposed to be looking for!

Would these work? Direct from Enkei? http://www.jscspeed.com/catalog/Enke..._8-5438-1.html

Last edited by Chrishoky; 09-20-2014 at 05:09 PM.
Old 09-20-2014, 06:00 PM
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You can probably also source a more traditional 6-sided set with a locker from a local wheel/tire shop...maybe where ever you're taking the wheels to have tires mounted. But those you linked to should work. Personally I recommend getting an extra socket...one to keep in your tool box and one to keep in your car. You'll also want those hub-centric rings if you haven't already gotten them. Can't remember for certain, IIRC MAZDA hub is something like 67.1 mm and Enkei wheels are 70mm.
Enkei also has, in my experience, a decent customer service help-line.

Last edited by Signal 2; 09-20-2014 at 06:04 PM.
Old 09-20-2014, 07:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Signal 2
You can probably also source a more traditional 6-sided set with a locker from a local wheel/tire shop...maybe where ever you're taking the wheels to have tires mounted. But those you linked to should work. Personally I recommend getting an extra socket...one to keep in your tool box and one to keep in your car. You'll also want those hub-centric rings if you haven't already gotten them. Can't remember for certain, IIRC MAZDA hub is something like 67.1 mm and Enkei wheels are 70mm.
Enkei also has, in my experience, a decent customer service help-line.
Thanks for the advice. The tires are already mounted. What do the hub centric rings do? I mounted them up today but again couldnt tighten the stock lugs down enough for a secure fit. They seemed to fit the hub fine though? the guy I bought them from had them installed on an 8, so they may have them already. How would I know?
Old 09-21-2014, 05:30 AM
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If you bought them used, then the P O probably has them already. With your wheel off, you can see a raised round center area surrounded by the lugs on your car called the 'hub' which generally speaking, covers the wheel bearing area. It's the diameter of that raised hub area that needs to match with the inner diameter of the wheel hub area. It makes the wheels easier to install...since you don't need the lug nuts to properly locate the wheel on the car. But more importantly it helps support the wheel, especially at speed, keeping it from flexing. Flexing at speed will make it feel like the wheel is out of balance and worst case is the wheel fails.
Easy enough to check, just look on the back side of your wheels for small rings inserted that look something like what's pictured in your link.

Last edited by Signal 2; 09-21-2014 at 05:35 AM.
Old 09-21-2014, 06:25 AM
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Hey all. I was looking at my clutch disc yesterday, and while it probably has enough to go for a while, if it's not too expensive I might just replace the disc while I've got the engine and transmission out.

What disc is compatible with the MT5? Do I buy one that's for the RX-8 MT5, a miata of certain years, or turbo RX-7?

Thanks.
Old 09-22-2014, 05:30 AM
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Sorta dumb question :P

QuiK615's post got me thinking.

A while back I saw a fan control diagram from Mazda (I will post the link below) and it said, that for the fans to stay on after stopping the car, the engine coolant temp should be 230F! OR MORE! So if the fans stay on for 15 mins after stopping the car, isn't that REALLY DANGEROUS?

One more thing. What does "refrigerant pressure switch" mean?

https://www.rx8club.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=202597
Old 09-22-2014, 06:07 AM
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So I think I've got an answer - I'll post it in case someone ends up here by search.

I'm looking at a 225mm disc rather than 240mm, which is the size from the non-turbo RX-7, but it's got the spline of the RX-8 (or RX-7 turbo). Racing Beat does sell race clutches in that configuration, but I don't know if I want to go to a race disc.

My other solution is to go aftermarket flywheel and 240mm clutch - the flywheel from Turbo RX-7/RX-8 is for 240mm clutch, the input shaft is the same RX-8 and RX-7 turbo.


Originally Posted by Viich
Hey all. I was looking at my clutch disc yesterday, and while it probably has enough to go for a while, if it's not too expensive I might just replace the disc while I've got the engine and transmission out.

What disc is compatible with the MT5? Do I buy one that's for the RX-8 MT5, a miata of certain years, or turbo RX-7?

Thanks.
Old 09-22-2014, 11:30 AM
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Engine coolant, go with the Mazda FL22 from the actual dealership? Or is Prestone 50/50 from autozone good?
Old 09-22-2014, 11:30 AM
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FL22.

Read this for why. https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tec...licone-238638/
Old 09-22-2014, 11:33 AM
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Thanks a lot, your always helping me out lol
Old 09-22-2014, 01:05 PM
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Originally Posted by RIWWP
**** this made me cringe. I have no idea what kind of stupid things the dealer did to my car, but I definitely am going to a dealer for full flush now.

Thanks for the post.
Old 09-23-2014, 05:11 PM
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i want to clean the exterior of my engine just for it to look better. But I understand you have to cover pretty much all electrical components before using a degreaser and rinsing, which just about everywhere you look there are electrical wires? How do yall go about cleaning the engine? I feel like I just need to forget it and just clean dirt and stuff with a damp rag so I dont take the chance of messing it up
Old 09-24-2014, 02:45 AM
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^ I'm planning on doing this too and I'd love to find out what I'm supposed to cover.
Old 09-25-2014, 11:56 AM
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I've had my rx8 for two years now, but the hazard lights have never worked with the running lights or headlights on. Is anyone else having this problem? It hasn't been an issue yet, but I want to get it fixed before it becomes one.


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