Credit Card Key Issue
#26
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I know that cell phones fry hotel keys. Didn't think it would fry our keys.
But I keep my key in my left pocket and my cell in my right. I have my wallet in my left with the key and that contains my work pass though.
But I keep my key in my left pocket and my cell in my right. I have my wallet in my left with the key and that contains my work pass though.
#27
Dial P for Phantom
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I have my key in the right pocket and cell in the left.
I have this problem every once in a while. It will take a few clicks or i wack my pocket and sometimes that fixes it. Eventually i get bored at work, open the card, and re-bend the metal tabs to hold the battery more strongly in place, and that solves the problem for another month or two.
I have this problem every once in a while. It will take a few clicks or i wack my pocket and sometimes that fixes it. Eventually i get bored at work, open the card, and re-bend the metal tabs to hold the battery more strongly in place, and that solves the problem for another month or two.
#28
Again, as long as I keep my key and my iPhone separate, no worries. Also, if i get in the car with my iphone in my right pocket, i get interference through the radio. if i leave it in my left pocket, no problems.
#29
Anyone know the approximate cost for a replacement key card (keyless entry)?
And do i need to get it from a Mazda dealer?
I assume they have to cut the actual key that slides into the card, and program the car and original key card.
Just wondering if I had an option....
thx
And do i need to get it from a Mazda dealer?
I assume they have to cut the actual key that slides into the card, and program the car and original key card.
Just wondering if I had an option....
thx
#31
Hm, I didn't see any. I do mean the credit card system with wireless entry (and no key in ignition). If you can buy it aftermarket does it come with spare key blank (that slides inside as backup) and can anyone cut a copy?
#32
Rxhausted
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I dont know about the blank, but my dealer charges $400 for a new credit card and programming. They charge $100 just to program. Thus far I haven't found the instructions for programing it ourselves. I'm told some locksmiths can program the credit card although none in my area have the capability.
Anyone know how hard it is put an aftermarket alarm system on an advanced keyless car?
#33
Oooh, shiny!
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I am now experiencing the same problem. I first took it to the dealership to check out, and they claimed it was my installed electronics causing the problem. (LED footwell lights, audiolink iPod adapter, and a carPC that has been unplugged ever since over a year ago). I obliged to take everything out to have them look at it again. It came as no surprise that after I did so the problem still persisted.
Oddly enough a day later the problem was gone! Unfortunately another two days AFTER "working" again, the problem rears its ugly head. Off to the dealership it goes tomorrow!
My only real worry, however; is if I really DID cause the problem . The only possibility I can think of is the vampire taps I used for the LED footwell lights of which I used electrical tape to cover where they cut after removing them. The plastic jackets have holes where the taps were as expected... but I couldn't see any sort of cut in the wiring itself.
Would anyone happen to know which wires in the footwell area are relevant to the advanced keyless entry system? Specifically involving the transmitters for the request buttons.
As an aside, the first inkling of the problem came near the end of the cold season where the trunk request button would behave erratically; it would sometimes not work at all, yet other times trigger non-stop whenever the key was near. I put this off as possibly being the rubber dome of the button getting too rigid and keeping the button activated.
Oddly enough a day later the problem was gone! Unfortunately another two days AFTER "working" again, the problem rears its ugly head. Off to the dealership it goes tomorrow!
My only real worry, however; is if I really DID cause the problem . The only possibility I can think of is the vampire taps I used for the LED footwell lights of which I used electrical tape to cover where they cut after removing them. The plastic jackets have holes where the taps were as expected... but I couldn't see any sort of cut in the wiring itself.
Would anyone happen to know which wires in the footwell area are relevant to the advanced keyless entry system? Specifically involving the transmitters for the request buttons.
As an aside, the first inkling of the problem came near the end of the cold season where the trunk request button would behave erratically; it would sometimes not work at all, yet other times trigger non-stop whenever the key was near. I put this off as possibly being the rubber dome of the button getting too rigid and keeping the button activated.
#34
Registered User
Thread Starter
yea that's what happened to mine. At first it wouldn't work. Then a few days later it would. Then it'd stop again. It would repeat like this until it finally just stopped working completely
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kidcampbell71 (09-17-2022)
#36
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#37
Dial P for Phantom
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dont know if i mentionned this before, but i found that while having the key around my cell phone makes it not work, the same applies to cards with RFID tags in them, like my work badges and also one of my credit cards...
#39
Scrappy
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No, it doesn't make sense. Yes, taping your phone and "key" together will work. Yes, your phone will interfere with the rfid tag if it's oriented incorrectly when you put it down. The interference only comes from the phone physically blocking the signals, not from any type of radio interference, and yes, it can be significant but it probably doesn't matter enough to do anything.
The only way to know is to try it, no-one is stopping you.
The only way to know is to try it, no-one is stopping you.
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