PSUGreySreet

CEL just came on this morning and took the 8 by an AutoZone to get the code read. It read: P2004 (Variable Tumble Control System [VTCS] - Shutter Valve Stuck Open). Let me give you some background.

I had my engine replaced about 2,500 miles ago due to antifreeze leaking into the engine block. I've already had to take it in for a misfire (one of the plugs wiggled loose). I made a 350 mile trip to see my girlfriend in upstate NY and am their currently. I am scheduled to head home tomorrow afternoon. I have a 2004 Manual GT, with 59,000 miles on it. I will be taking the car in as soon as I get home. I think it should be ok for me to drive 300 more miles as it is showing no symptoms of anything and no power-loss, rough driving.

I walked out to the car this morning as it got down to near 0 degrees last night. I read the other thread on here about a CEL - shutter valve and people mention that it happens b/c the engine is not driven hard enough. For the first 1,000 miles after getting my engine replacement, I took it easy and wore the engine in, but drive it pretty damn hard for the last 1,000-1,500 miles. COuld have been caused b/c of the sudden decrease in temperature?

I want to know people's 2 cents on this issue and if it pertains to my recent replacement. Will Mazda cover this under their 12/12 warranty on my new engine (as I am out of my old warranty)? Is it ok to drive home b/c i HAVE to get home tomorrow? Thanks guys... you're always there to help.

EDIT: Under the code reading it also lists probable causes as:
1. Disconnected -or- damaged vacuum hose {already checked and I think all is well here}
2. Binding VTC actuator
3. VTC solenoid malunction

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

if you have 04, your powertrain warranty should be 60K miles 5 yrs, whichever comes first.

I had a SSV High CEL b4. its not opening smooth, you can feel the *choke* around the 5800~6300 rpm range (depends on load), after a few tanks of hard runs with Redline System cleaner. it has been 10 K miles since, no problems. not even a single hiccup.

If you have 12/12 warranty, they will cover it, its part of the engine operation.

expo1

+1, Drive it hard for a week or two and see if it comes back.

PSUGreySreet

So with the warranty still in tact we think, you think i should take it in as soon as I get home... or wait a little while and run a few tanks and get Redline Cleaner additive and then reset the codes and see if it pops back up?

expo1

Run as much as you can at + 7,000 RPM for about two tanks of gas.

PSUGreySreet

Thanks expo and nyc. Should I had system cleaner as well? And then after a few tanks, reset the codes and go from there?

Will I feel that it is fixed? Without the negative hiccups at the 5800-6000 mark like nyc explained.

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

if its *fixeD* you should not feel the hiccup anymore.

Just try it for a few tanks /w the redline + rapid 6K rpm driving.

like going up to 9K , go back down 5K , then go right back up to 9K .... keep doing that. Sure ppl on the road might think u're nutz or drunk or something. but thats how u do it.

PSUGreySreet

Thanks so much. Will do on the 300 mile drive home tomorrow.

Another question, one of you guys may enlighten me on. Can you give me a little idea on how this shutter valve opens and closes? Like what does it exactly do and what will exactly do when/if me driving it, fixes it? Will it just lose the buildup and pop closed and then open and close smoothly? Sorry for all the ?'s, but you all are helping me a lot.

swoope

iTrader: (5)

b@g 44k, and run the **** out of it..


beers

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

I know what it looks like, but just dunno how to say it in words but think of it like a valve that u turn it to the left it let the water flows and turn it to the right it closes.

just follow what we said, should be able to solve ur problem

PSUGreySreet

Thanks all. I know I can always get my probs answered here. Cuz for some reason, at least someone before me has had it.

climacus

Run a serious dose of Redline SI-1 fuel cleaner or seafoam the engine, then drive it between 6000-7500 rpm until the valve is unstuck.

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

I'd check the switch......it's easy to check the SSV...just push on the actuator rod and see if it moves

Razz1

Are you sure you got a new engine and they didn't rebuild your own?
Isn't the VCTS an external part? Not part of the housing and rotor.

Any time you over heat an engine you can damage other components.

Seems like the overheating caused this, therefore they should fix it.

Raptor75

Bring it in immediately!!!!

You maybe able to shake it lose but if it jammed once it will jam again, the next time you may be out of warranty and looking at a $2,500 service bill. The intake system has a history of carbon locking on the RX-8, they don't fix it they just replace the whole system. So get it done while it is free, even if the dealer breaks it free your on record for pointing out the problem before the warranty ends.

Mazda has a notoriously back reputation for service and screwing the customer....DO NOT WAIT!!!

PSUGreySreet

Alright, so just got in fromy my 300+ mile drive home. About 50-100 miles into the trip, the light went off. Everything seems smooth and good, but I totally understand Raptor about what he is saying about it resticking (and it def. could)

Here's the thing, now that the light went off, if I take it in, they might just be like, nope everything is ok. It fixed. Should I tell them to take it apart and clean it?

Old Rotor

I beleave I'm correct that this is only a problem on the M/T as the A/T does not have these parts.

PSUGreySreet

Not 100% sure, but would probably guess so. I have to drive to the train station in the morning and come back tomorrow night. After those trips my odometer will be at 59,960 about... then a 15-17 mile drive to the dealer the next morning. Cutting it close, huh?

This may put my mind at a little more ease, but which warranty do you think would cover the check/clean? 60,000 powertrain? or my 12,000/12 mo. from the dealer on my new/rebuilt engine>?

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

Powertrain for sure.....Possibly the other as well

PSUGreySreet

Thanks. As you just answered, I found my Extended Warranty paperwork from Mazda and everything it lists and it says it covers the engine; more directly though, intake manifold & gaskets, etc.

I'll probably try and find a ride to the station or borrow a family car so I'm not cutting it close. Thanks again!

PSUGreySreet

Ok, sorry to keep bothering. Read another thread or two on previous problems with this.

Someone mentioned that when they took it to the dealer, they couldn't do anything about it since the light went away and when the ecu clears the CEl due to successful cycles, it clears the record of this. My CEL went away, so I am in the same boat. I'm tempted to call them first as I know the gentleman their as he has done work on my car and replaced the engine, but have a feeling he may give me a non-helpful answer over the phone.

EDIT: I still have my Autozone slip with the Error Code readout & date.

AND: Just looked under Mazda codes and P2004 is APV Stuck. Does this mean the same thing as SSV? As I know people with stuck SSV's have a code P2070 I believe.

Razz1

It says the code stays in the PCM memory.

Auxilary Port Valve

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

APV is different than SSV.......APV is more difficult to unstick...if that is the problem.

I would check that the APV motor works properly before I freaked about the intake being stuck.

I would remove the UIM and pour a bottle of B44 or such into the secondary tracts...and let it soak for a day or so...and then try and unstick the valves..

All this is moot if your covered under warranty...let Mazda deal with the problem...and let them replace the intake

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

If APVs are stuck, it will be really hard to get them unstuck, you might be able to get them unstuck with a lot of cold/hot fast/slow high rev/low rev + some luck.

SSV is easy.

I do not think he knows how to remove the UIM.

if its not showing CEL most dealerships will not bother to check for store codes. not to mention the stored codes will delete itself if it does not happen again after about 5 drive cycle.

if it does not flash or no CEL is showing for another week or so, u'll be fine. oh, dont forgot, buy 2 more bottles of red line stuff for ur next 2 tanks of gas !

Raptor75

Bring it in regardless, at least your on record before the warranty expires. This will give you a fighting chance if it fails out of warranty. Also the issue which caused the cell will be recorded by the dealer even if they do nothing to fix it at this time. Cover your *** while you can, there is not reason not to.