RotoRocket

iTrader: (1)

Stealth & Mod-Gods, can we keep this in the general forum for maximum eyeballs, even if for a week or few days? I noticed that I and others get much faster responses from those in the know on ASAP type questions when posted in here than in sub-forums? If so, thanks. If not, I understand.

Okay ladies & gentlemen, this thread and the question posed is not intended to start drama, but to get to get credible information that will let I and others most effectively and economically deal with...

....da da da da da.....

Rail dust and industrial fallout that burns orange and brown embers into our clearcoat (and paint?)!!!! Fun stuff!!

Here's my deal.

I am deciding on a course of action to efficiently and economically remove as much of the rail dust and other contaminants, that are now appearing as orangish-brownish flecks on the paint of my silver 8.

These marks are mainly appearing on the lower and front portion of the doors (brake dust a contributing factor?), with some also on in front of the rear wheel wells, underneath the rear suicide door.

As I understand it, every car has these blemishes, even new cars, but they tend to show more evidently on lighter cars (white, silver, etc.).

Very thorough cleaning with high quality car wash products will NOT remove these.

Since my car is 7 years old, and I have no rust issues, am keeping the car forever, I want to deal with this now, and am in the process of either setting off to do it myself or have it professionally detailed for about $75 to $100.

I have done a ton of research, and there's a ton of conflicting data and opinion about whether clay bar-ing or liquid/gel fallout removers are the best way to remove these blemishes.

Some claim that using a clay bar only shears off the particles above the level of the clear coat, leaving remaining portions imbedded, while others claim that clay bar-ing pulls out the entire particle.

Some claim that only products like Valugard A-B-C Decontamination Kit, Carpro Iron-x, Autosmart Fallout Cleaner, Mark V Fallout Liquid, etc. (most of which contain Oxalic Acid as a % of their active ingredient, with some of these having an added catalyst that turns iron ferrous material purple/red on contact and bleeds it - whether a gimmick or not, I don't know) is the way to go, and then one can clay bar afterwards if they still think it is needed.

All agree that an application of a high % carnauba wax (e.g. Collinite No. 476s) and buff afterwards is proper.

Let the opinions, facts and personal anecdotes fly, because I'm doing this soon!

Thanks!

paimon.soror

iTrader: (15)

Best experiences for me with rail dust on other cars has been:

wash car
clay bar
M105 w/ orbital & orange pad
M205 w/ orbital & black pad (or red pad)

Basicaly you will rely on the clay to remove the most of the rail dust and such, with any resedue removed after a run through with M105

RX8Soldier

iTrader: (24)

subbing

RotoRocket

iTrader: (1)

I talked to a local detailer who seemed pretty competent, and he pretty much described your routine, with the addition of Collinite wax (I had never heard of it before).

I was just hoping that anyone really in the know thinks the treatment kits that claim to dissolve rail dust and industrial fallout actually do anything that's worth the price, or are just marketing hype.

paimon.soror

iTrader: (15)

I have used IronX on my wheels with some great results, and I have read that it had good results on getting out rail dust, but I prefer the three step process of clay, cut and polish. Not only are you attacking the product with some less acidic materials, but are also correcting the paint and protecting it further with the polish (M205).

If you do decide to try IronX ... word of warning .... hold your breath..... it smells like someone mixed rotted animal carcass in the container.

Also, Collinite is a fantastic wax and one of my favorite "liquid" waxes. Their products are high quality, and their waxes are much thicker than some so they bond better. In the method I described, you would apply the collinite after the M205. Note that Collinite is better applied with an orbital than by hand because of its thicker nature.