'04 8 won't crank, won't start..
#1
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'04 8 won't crank, won't start..
Specs:
'04 Manual RX8, 36,500 miles.
Last "Full Circle Inspection" at 33,000; all 'green.'
Stock engine, no modifications
Purchased at 34,500 - driven it with no issue.
On Tuesday morning I walked out to the car, used the keyfob to unlock the doors, got in, depressed the clutch fully and turned the key. Nothing. No cranking, no noise at all, in fact.
I noticed that the radio did not come on, and after getting out to look and back in, I noticed the keyfob didn't work anymore, either.
Thinking that the battery was dead (I believe it had the original factory battery), I tried to jumpstart it with a jumpstart kit AND another car to no avail.
I went out this afternoon to get the battery tested and it was putting out 12.5 volts. Not fully charged, but enough to get a car cranking, at least. I noticed when I pulled the battery out that it hadn't been seated well and the caps were a little bent, but nothing major. Praying to Jebus that it was just a dead battery, I bought one on the spot ($90..) and threw it in.
Still nothing. It's acting exactly like what happens when you try to turn it on without your foot on the clutch... dead silence except your key turning past the "ON" position. The terminals on the new battery are clean, the cables seem tight and clean..
What could this be? I was thinking it was a clutch position sensor or something, but that doesn't explain why the radio and the keyfob don't work.
I pulled the 60A fuse right on the battery housing and it looked fine, as did all the little fuses I could pull out in the fuse box.
Tuesday was particularly snowy and cold and the car ran fine driving 100+ mi on the previous Saturday in the snow..
HELP? I've already spent $90, and I don't want to have to pay to tow it to the dealership for nothing.
'04 Manual RX8, 36,500 miles.
Last "Full Circle Inspection" at 33,000; all 'green.'
Stock engine, no modifications
Purchased at 34,500 - driven it with no issue.
On Tuesday morning I walked out to the car, used the keyfob to unlock the doors, got in, depressed the clutch fully and turned the key. Nothing. No cranking, no noise at all, in fact.
I noticed that the radio did not come on, and after getting out to look and back in, I noticed the keyfob didn't work anymore, either.
Thinking that the battery was dead (I believe it had the original factory battery), I tried to jumpstart it with a jumpstart kit AND another car to no avail.
I went out this afternoon to get the battery tested and it was putting out 12.5 volts. Not fully charged, but enough to get a car cranking, at least. I noticed when I pulled the battery out that it hadn't been seated well and the caps were a little bent, but nothing major. Praying to Jebus that it was just a dead battery, I bought one on the spot ($90..) and threw it in.
Still nothing. It's acting exactly like what happens when you try to turn it on without your foot on the clutch... dead silence except your key turning past the "ON" position. The terminals on the new battery are clean, the cables seem tight and clean..
What could this be? I was thinking it was a clutch position sensor or something, but that doesn't explain why the radio and the keyfob don't work.
I pulled the 60A fuse right on the battery housing and it looked fine, as did all the little fuses I could pull out in the fuse box.
Tuesday was particularly snowy and cold and the car ran fine driving 100+ mi on the previous Saturday in the snow..
HELP? I've already spent $90, and I don't want to have to pay to tow it to the dealership for nothing.
#2
Zoom Zoom....
A couple of preliminary questions...
Do the interior lights come on?
Do the headlights work?
Edit: The main fuse is 120amps. It is at location #1 (closest to airfilter) in the engine compartment fuse box. When you said 60A fuse, did you mean this one?
Edit again... The 60A fuse on its own near the battery is for the power steering...
Do the interior lights come on?
Do the headlights work?
Edit: The main fuse is 120amps. It is at location #1 (closest to airfilter) in the engine compartment fuse box. When you said 60A fuse, did you mean this one?
Edit again... The 60A fuse on its own near the battery is for the power steering...
Last edited by Silver06; 12-05-2008 at 03:48 PM.
#4
Rotary Powered Countryboy
yeah a few more details try lights etc...check the radio fuse in the car to make sure it's just not a fuse try and test to see if the starter si getting any power when u turn the key......
#5
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Radio fuse looked fine, and how do I check if the starter is getting juice?
If I need a multimeter I don't have one.. it's on my XMAS list but I'm not allowed to buy things in December just in case..
Didn't check headlights but I will tonight..
If I need a multimeter I don't have one.. it's on my XMAS list but I'm not allowed to buy things in December just in case..
Didn't check headlights but I will tonight..
#6
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Here's what I'm seeing on my dash when I put the key to the ON position. I've never really checked what lights are on right before you crank it tho. They'd all go off before when it successfully fired up.
http://img166.imageshack.us/img166/9525/imag0008eb1.jpg
http://img517.imageshack.us/img517/1734/imag0009oh4.jpg
http://img166.imageshack.us/img166/9525/imag0008eb1.jpg
http://img517.imageshack.us/img517/1734/imag0009oh4.jpg
#7
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I had the same problem,it ended being the starter,the orginal starter is not strong to last,i had mine replace with the new stronger starter that mazda came out while back,of course the new version is consider an upgrade so no warranty
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Where's the other one? I opened the fuse box on the right side of the engine bay (next to the air box). I used that little tool to pull all the little ones, but I couldn't get any of the big ones out.
I was expecting there might be one in the cabin itself, but I didn't see anything.
Also, somebody mentioned a 120A fuse.. is that in the same place?
I was expecting there might be one in the cabin itself, but I didn't see anything.
Also, somebody mentioned a 120A fuse.. is that in the same place?
#13
Did you put the jumpers on the correct terminals? If you didn't your in bad shape. Time to drop it off at the dealer or to someone who knows what their doing, seems like its beyond your troubleshooting level....not to sound like a jerk. Instead of saying what it could be just approach it as it is.....think logically what could cause the car to not start and what parts are involved. Good luck but the dealer would be the best bet...even though your trying to save this is a suck it up and get it fixed so you can drive around thing.
#14
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Other fuse box is in the drivers footwell. Check those fuses. As far as I know the only way to be absolutely sure that the fuse is good is to check it with a multimeter. I have personally had fuses that look fine, yet fail according to the multimeter.
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I don't have a meter but I checked every one the little fuses and they looked fine. Anyone know how to pull out the big "box" fuses like the 120A? I'm thinking it might be one of those, because every small fuse in the footwell and engine compartment checked out.
#19
Those are relays and you gotta giggle it or do a circle motion while pulling up. Be careful if your using pliers or something like that because you can break the housing. I still think this is over your head and you should take it to a dealer.
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Turns out I'm out of B2B warranty, and fuses aren't covered under that anyway. Guy was good about it and met me about half way.
It was the god damned 120A fuse.. :-/
At least it's runnin now..
It was the god damned 120A fuse.. :-/
At least it's runnin now..
#25
Rotary Powered Countryboy
damn you should have just yanked on that fuse....i didn't get here intime!!!! but for future reference those you have to sort of shake back and forth while pulling up at the same time!!.....