Easy_E1

iTrader: (2)

Oh my God! I'm Todd now!?

ASH8

Gee.did I ever get out of the wrong side of the bed!...

stickmantijuana

dznutzuk, that's what I'm probably missing! you just made my week. thanks!! btw, do you need it? haha jk.

so I was very proud of yesterday's work until i realized i forgot to install the GOD DAMN return spring. now I need to undo all the work and install the darn spring. without the spring, the shifter is now stuck at the driver's side---not the middle. also what does the second set of ball-spring combo do?

anyhow, here's the pic of yesterday's work that's about to get dismantled again next week. today's busy day for me at work. on the upside, mazdatrix's short shifter assembly is probably the easiest thing I've ever done on this car. goes in with no drama.

dznutzuk

If I understand correctly what you're talking about, the second set of ball and spring also keeps it in the middle-return from the passenger side. One ball and spring on each side to keep it centered in the middle.

stickmantijuana

i actually just got an answer from mazdatrix. it's a mechanism that forces you to go into neutral from the 5th gear to go into reverse. yes there's that spring that returns your shifter to neutral as well.

if you have any question about your shifter reloc, let me know. i have this down now.

you can use FD tranny box & FC output shaft housing. you can then put your shifter wherever you want!

Rote8

Is this your second time being Todd?

marcux

any way I can get that wiring diagram sent to me for mating up the stock ecu and haltech?
i'm working on a similar project.
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-major-horsepower-upgrades-93/whee-look-what-i-got-%3B-193527/

marcux

Oh also, I was working with using the 8's ecu as the one that controls the car and haltech to just control the engine. since the pedal is electronic, can't you just move the mechanizm by hacking it out of the 8's over to the throttle body of the 20b to open and close the butterfly valve?, I mean, that's basically what your doing when it's connected to the 8's throttle body right? and that would keep the 8's cruise control. I mean, when you move the electric pedal, it opens the butterfly valve on the 8's throttlebody. I think people are overthinking thing, but mabey i'm missing somthing myself.
Or mabey disconnect the motor inside the 8's throttlebody and use a cable driven TB. and just piggieback the throttlebody sensor for the 8's cpu to detect where it is.. just brainstorming.

stickmantijuana

I'd be interested too. From what I understand, you don't mate stock ECU with haltech. they're separate entities. but if history has taught me anything in 20b swap, I'm probably wrong.

anyhow, I'm still 100% going with the 20b. problem has been that so many OEM parts are missing and every time I start something, I need to order something from a dealership--something as simple as an o-ring... last week's culprit has been trying to seal the fuel tank--still having trouble with the rubber gasket size. Without having a running car, and half of what I need for the project, combined with not knowing what is needed, is making the progress very slow. i guess the upside is that I'm learning alot, and I probably can open up my own shop after i'm done with this thing. i probably spent about 10k in tools & another few grand on just bare materials for contruction. i'm also looking to buy a lift so i can stop banging my head against some stuff hanging underneath my car. i wouldn't suggest this if you're looking to open up a business though hehe. i would've been bankrupt a long time ago.

stickmantijuana

it actually turned out to be a reverse lock switch. there's a spring that wraps around the metal connector, and that's the one that returns it from the driver side.

shifter is complete. if anyone wants to relocate their shifter using FD transmission with either FI rx8 or 20b or 13rew, use FC shifter housing then cut the shaft to suit. it's really easy. i can walk someone through it if anyone needs any help with this.

urbanlegendrx8

I just started reading this thread and I am also in the process of getting a 3 rotor put in my RX-8, unlike you I don't have the talent to actually do it myself. All i wanna say is....Stickmantijuana....YOU ARE MY HERO!!!! Good luck to you and to all the is helping out, I, thank you also...

stickmantijuana

ohhh just you wait hehe thanks for the kind words nonetheless.

i've been busy at work.. putting in about 120hr/wk. have some time tomorrow and friday!

i have some questions about wiring to help me along tomorrow, and I promise to post some photos tomorrow.

i'm preparing a list of questions and will post in a few seconds with photos. thanks all.

stickmantijuana

q2 = ignition switch wiring: how do i connect my wires like that? i don't want to use relays unless i have to.

q3 = I have my battery relocated, so i can't ground straight to the battery as shown on the photo. is this a problem? can i just ground to chassis?

q4 = " * " is for falling vs rising edge. I'm using 2nd gen CAS with haltech e11v2. which one do i use?

stickmantijuana

just to keep you oriented...
BLUE circles = i understand. no problem here.

GREEN circles = I don't know what to do with these wires

RED X's = will leave unconnected.

q6: "switched from 12V supply from ignition switch" which wire in the gutted rx8 engine compartment would you connect this to?

second image:
q7: what's difference between "trigger input" vs "home input"?

q8: where's 12V switched supply from fuse block via 20A fuse?

q9: "shielded cable should be earthed at ECU end of cable only" what/where does it mean by "at the ECU end of the cable?"

thanks all very much.

marcux

Mabey I can help, since i've installed automatic starters/alarms.
q1) Ignition is just that, an ignition switch to power the unit. you can use a relay to connect it to your ignition harness in your steering column.

q1) your coils should have 3 or 4 wires, 1 is your positive 12v+, 1 (or 2 if it's 4 wire) are your negative(s), and 1 is your trigger wire to trigger the spark. I believe l1,l2,l3 and t1, t2, and t3 are possibly your trigger wires.

q3) Yes I would directly to battery. (Or at least a ground that connects directly to battery negative) Connecting to body can create noise.
No 2 areas of the car are the same when it comes to resistance.

q4) not sure what a 2nd gen crank angle sensor uses. but I found this post http://www.hitman.hm/installation.htm
Might help.

q6) In your ignition harness (I use the one inside of your steering wheel when connecting automatic starters, should be a yellow wire or white not sure), there should be a 12v+ that remains on when key is turned (Note this must remain 12v+ even when motor is cranking) and off when key is off this is #85. 86 to ground on the relay. 30 is directly to fused 20A positive battery terminal, and 87 to the utility you are trying to power eg: fuel pump, ignition coils.

q8) any time you see switched supply, it mean the same at above. 12v+ on when key is
turned. you need to find this in the fuse block that can handle 20A.

q9) you need to find a Shielded cable, cable with foil around it kinda of. (Like a vga cable has when you cut it open) this cable grounds at the end it's told to, so if it says ecu end, it only grounds to ecu. if you ground at both ends eg: at ecu and wherever it is going, it can cause grounding distortion between the 2.

I dunno about question 7 I think this goes to your ignition wire from the Cars ECU that goes to the coil packs if your piggybacking the haltech onto a motor that is already being controller by a cars ECU? if that's the case you don't need it. but don't quote me on that, i'm not sure.

This is what I think it's suggesting, but i'm not 100% sure. just trying to lead you in the right direction.

i'm working on a 20b in my rx8 myself
I have a microtech lt-12s for mine. just have to get a turbo mani made

So far, I have:
20b
microtech lt-12s
Act Streetlight flywheel/Act Heavy Duty pressure plate (need clutch good for 500lb)
looking at turbo's atm (what are you using?)
have 2x walbro 255lph fuel pumps, (1 is installed atm in OEM rx8 fuel pump assembly) going to install other one on the passenger side when 20b goes in.
still need a fpr (AEROMOTIVE FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR A1000 13109)
Need wastegate (tiel 60m)
custom turbo manifold with http://www.racingbeat.com/Mazda-Perf...rtNumber=16184
Need radiator and intercooler.
Need motor mounts. (what are you using?)

stickmantijuana

as promised, couple photos of what i did today.

engine bay is lot cleaner now. i was scratching my head with wiring diagrams when i took the photos.

btw i have no idea what i'm doing. i mean not a clue! i don't even change my own oil. if this works out in the end, anyone should be able to do a 3rotor swap.

but in my defense, i didn't ask for this.

stickmantijuana

hey marcux, thanks for the reply. maybe i should wait until the weekend for more people to chime in? i want to cut the wires once, so i guess i'll wait.

i'm using gt42rr, one bosch-044 (i have another but decided to run just one for now to keep things simple), aeromotive a1000 fpr, turbosmart 60mm wastegate, pwr rx8 radiator with modified ports, some intercooler, solid motor mount.

keep me updated. and good luck.

angeljoelv

Hey sticky, post a pic of your bay. We want to see.

stickmantijuana

let me clean it up a bit today then will post a photo for ya.

hey about the wiring harness, i just wrap the entire length with some electric tape, then friction tape, then black plastic covering, then zip ties. does that sound okay?

angeljoelv

sounds good to me..

stickmantijuana

will post better photos tomorrow.

dznutzuk

STOP what you're doing and take off that lower intake manifold. That flange is way way too thin! You better cut that off and weld a new flange on there. That can warp so easily and you don't need too have boost and fuel come out of there right on your exhaust manifold flange and piping. Big time fire hazard!

angeljoelv

He has heard all about that intake manifold on his first thread. The guy that started his swap desided the engine should be pushed back, I guess for weight distribution even if it ment to have to build this weird *** intake manifold becouse the stock one wouldnt work. I do agree with you totally dznutzuk, and am sure he could have done a better job on it. I do put myself in stick shoes and all I can feel is frustrated that after all he went through, now that he is working hard to put it togther, things like this keep comming up.

stickmantijuana

i'm with you all on this one. as soon as i get some kind of sustained idle, i'm going to take it apart and rebuild it. LIM is definitely first one on the list.

do you know any premade aluminum lower intake manifold plate for the 20b? i can weld the piping as long as i have a plate. i just don't have a milling machine large enough to cut the flange straight.

a nice rx8club member dropped by yesterday and got the injector wiring harness started for me. it looks great! once weather warms up a little, i'll finish up the wiring then will post a photo. as of now, just some annoying wiring left before the first crank!

once i have crank, i'll then build the exhaust. once that's done, i'm going to tear everything out and remake the LIM & mounts.

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

From experience...you might want to not wrap up the harness till you get everything squared away...

Also...run a few extra wires in the harness from the engine bay to the ECU..to use for extra circuits or to repair a broken wire..it will save you a lot of grief

Buy a good grommet where the wires go through the firewall...and buy some good heat shrink ...the 2 wall stuff is great.....

Good luck