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I'm not really familiar with the adaptronic. Just the little I've read. I'm thinking of switching to adaptronic on my future top mount build. I think the only way to switch boost on the fly inside the cabin would be to through your tuning device(i.e. laptop/tablet) if using the adaptronic to control boost.
Wrong.
You guys just need to read through what they're actually capable of...
Buy a Mac valve and use electronic boost control. You can wire up switches and have up to 5 different boost levels, one of them being wastegate spring pressure (mac valve off), the other four being controlled by the ECU. Electronic boost control is better at everything vs. using a plain mechanical unit. Just takes a little effort to dial in, which for both of you would be something your tuner will do.
Nice build mate. I will be doing the swap soon myself. Your thread has cleared a few questions I had in regards to REW front cover and RX8 aircon... Hope it fits for you, I'm in AUS so steering rack on the other side, turbo manifold is my big issue.
What are the main reasons people have opted to put the rx8 front cover on?
also one more question if anyone can shed some light for me, the OMP if I was looking to have the SOHN OMP can this be mounted elsewhere and the block blanked off? one this would save room for turbo manifold or piping. My initial thoughts are yes as you would be using a separate oil source, in doing this you should be able to keep the rx8 electronic one right? all that would be needed would be to make custom lines right...
Thanks! Minus a few people who are great sources for information, we could all share a little more info and a little less opinion so that's my intention.
I believe most people opt for the Rx8 front cover for a few reasons, the biggest being:
- Use Rx8 e-shaft position sensor. This helps when you are looking to retain other oem functions like electronic throttle and avoids custom throttle cable work
- Retain oem aircon mount
- Use Rx8 water pump. The FD one has cavitation at high rpm.
A few downsides are that:
- Lacks turbo oil drain. I usually see people modify the front cover with a fitting for the drain line.
- Modification required to oil pan
I'm not too knowledge on the SOHN, apologies. I am interested in the answer however.
First, not looking to start any heated debates - just telling things how it is. My plastidipped roof was becoming faded due to sun damage so I went ahead and removed it. Note that I had used a spray gun and put it on heavy, so the dip peeled up excellently and easily. Point is you should expect plastidip to lose its color after 3 summers of sunlight. You are now warned. I will be replacing this with satin black vinyl wrap.
It has been a while since I provided an update. Still waiting on my turbo kit. At this point that is the major hold up. Still plugging away at parts and such, but besides the motor internals and turbo kit there's not too much left to buy. I had just had nuts welded into the trunk for a battery tray and surge tank, picture below. The welder is good and typically makes good welds, but I am PISSED because after losing the standard bolts I provided for the standard nuts, he cross threaded a metric size in one. Now I will have to re-tap that nut. I'm grateful that he probably did the welds well (we will see soon), but g*dd*mn could he not just leave the bolt out? Can't trust anyone these days.
Hey mate, have you measured up to see if you ac pump will clear the chassis rail etc ?
Im in Australia and like your ac adapter plate setup and want to do something similar but with less spacers to bring the pump closer to the block but was wondering if yours will fit in the engine bay.
My steering shaft is on the other side of the car so thats not a concern just if the ac pump will clear the chassis rail or anything else thats in the way in the engine bay.
Thanks.
Unfortunately I haven't yet tested fitment. I need to pull the motor from my running car, which will not happen until I am sure the thing is ready to be built full steam ahead. Still waiting on the turbo kit to know when I can get this underway. As soon as I have confirmation of fitment on all this crap, you can be sure I will post it right away.
In the meantime, does anyone know where I can get straight cut gears for an Rx8 5spd transmission? I believe Rx7 FD gears will fit inside. Pretty new to this stuff, so feel free to educate as you see fit. My searching so far has only led to straight cut & dog engagement gears, but to save a bit of $ I would like just straight cut with no dog engagement if available.
Other new plans are rear flares and 18x11 rear wheels, as well as a battle aero chassis mounted wing. If you would be interested in my braced BCL wing feel free to pm me.
I just used the rx8 5 speed bell housing and tail shaft, they bolt right up to the rx7 gears. Or are you wanting to upgrade the gears? This turns out to be really convenient because it will bolt up directly to the ppf.
From my research, the Rx8 5-spd gears are very similar, if not the same as the FD gears with some minor gear ratio differences. You are correct that the FD gear box section of the transmission bolts right up. The FD gearbox and Rx8 5spd gearbox should be the same length. I am hoping to just upgrade the gears if possible.
I am undecided about tires atm. I am leaning toward something like a semi-slick. I have Hancook Ventus Rs3 V2 on my WRX, which hook up really well. My brother's EVOX is breaking traction on Pilot Super Sports at ~500whp/350wtq so I do not want to make the mistake of getting tires that are not aggressive enough. I would like to try another variant, maybe Star Spec ZII, Toyo R888, or Potenza RE11s.
I will likely track this car at some point, but I suppose priority would be building a monster street car. Fastest street driven Rx8 in Ohio is my goal atm.
I run the star spec 2. They are a great tire. Don't know have they will hold up with 400+ horse power but with my NA renesis it's very difficult to break loose even mid corner.
I'm still alive, sorry for the hiatus. The build itself hasn't really progressed a whole ton, but I suppose a lot did happen in the meantime. Ironically my brother's EvoX just windowed its block, so I will be helping him remove and tear down his motor in the near future. Luckily I don't have to invest too much more on my car to build it, so if I have to loan him some money my build will not suffer much.
First things first, the turbo kit is progressing nicely and is near completion. I've been asked to keep specifics on the DL, but I will tell you this will be nicest, coolest S2 Rx8 out there. Having spent so much on this car, I am very happy it is nearing that point. Hopefully this will yield a few more boosted S2's.
I just received the motor internals in the mail, went with an Atkins rotor kit the first time around, pineapple HD water seals, and a few misc items. Atkins had some nice discoiunts for purelyrx8 members and holiday specials, very pleased with the service. Really looking forward to assembling, but I have to paint the irons and a few items first. Since its literally 10 degrees here in Northern OH, I am at the mercy of the gods now. I don't know why I forgot to do that prior to winter.... I may just assemble the rotors and have to wait until spring.
PPG does actually do custom projects. In my case, I will likely spring for straight cut synchromesh gears 1-4. This will probably be somewhere in the $5000 to 6000 range based on some preliminary research.
Purchased a Battle Aero chassis mounted wing (I think I was the second one to purchase). Big wings are my thing.
I think I need to get the car on the road before I sink too much more into cosmetics. Ducted hood, S2 rear fender flares, and rear 18x11 wheels are next on the list.
I don't think the Panspeed flares could fit 18x12's and 315mm Hoosiers though. The rears I think would work with S1 but the front you would have to convert to S2.
In the front the issue isn't the fender lip, it's the back of the wheel well at full lock, but just flaring the OE front fender and modifying the well liner is easy there compared to the back
Otherwise 295s on 10.5 fit my OE wells without too much problem
Yea I think an 11~11.5in wheel is about your max for the panspeed rears. They add like 20mm or so if you trim the lip, but you could probably pull the stock fender then put the flares on it for a little more width. My car's not out of the body shop to comment on space made from the fenders just yet.
Panspeed was using smaller rims/tires but a lot of offset to push it out to the outer fender edge, which there is about 1" or so of flat inner lip you can trim off their fender in addition to the 10mm per side increase
315 on 12" is very "square", if you choose your wheel offset to use as much of the inner well as possible it should fit imo, 295 on 10.5" clears my flattened OE fender lip fairly well because I have deep offset wheels with race studs and spacers to use all of the inner well, or not ....
but that's just a projection based on the information I have at this time, i.e. I don't have the actial parts in hand to confirm it. It's also only relevant for an S1. He has an S2 and S2 specific fenders, so that was the right choice for his application.
Just realized no text showed up with the pictures.
Fronts are 18" x 9.5" +38 wheels with 275/35/18 BFG Rival S.
Rears are 18" x 11" +8 wheels with 315/30/18 BFG Rival S.
Fitment of the tires is pretty square as mentioned, the edge of the tire sticks out slightly further than the edge of the wheel lip. I have to trim away a little more of the rear fenders since they came with some wide sections around 45 and -45 degrees (top of the wheel being 0 degrees). With 300 lbs passenger, it rubs that section a bit. Other than that, I think the rears will do quite nicely. From the turning I have done so far (low speed, high angle) The fronts did not seem to contact the fender liner. On some moderate bumps on the street, I did rub however. My front coilover height is maxed, so I am having my brother fab up/machine some 3/8" spacers which is the max it the threads on the strut tower the engine bay can provide without extended studs. I hope to add some threads at the mounting hat that attaches to the control arm so I can sleep at night, for a grand total of 1/4" raise. Its very interesting how low the front sits at max height.
The flares were quoted at a 2" increase to the sides. I planned the wheel/tire/offset combo to extend the wheel that much, but it still looks like I might want to add a 10mm spacer to the rear.
Summer is almost here, time to start racecar again.
Finally moved forward with the battery relocation again. Mounted on the rear passenger side, routed through passenger side firewall. It was a complete bear. Some more pictures to come when finished. I used just under 25 ft. of 1 gauge wire.
Passenger trunk side battery mount. Sanded area for ground. The rear side is unpainted as well. Engine bay, passenger side (where washer fluid tank would be). The hole is cover with tape from the inside, poke through with a wire hangar and exit into the back of the foot well. Wire poking through in bay. Passenger kick panel removed. Close up of kick panel removed. Pointing toward the wire. It will route under the foam inside into a cavity in the rear.
The location of the ground is kinda iffy in my opinion. From the reading I have done, a better location will be under the passenger rear seat, you want it to contact the car frame.
The location of the ground is kinda iffy in my opinion. From the reading I have done, a better location will be under the passenger rear seat, you want it to contact the car frame.
I agree, it will certainly work, but its less than ideal.
On mine I grounded direct to the starter, somewhere in the trunk, and to the frame at the front of the car (I used smaller gauge wire though).
I am more of the opinion its on execution and proper sizing than a proper ground area. I wouldn't say its a less than ideal spot. Some areas are probably more ideal, but on something as small scale as a car, its not anything to fret over.
Relocation is done finally. Car starts up nicely now, no issues yet. My old terminals flared out and didn't make proper contact anymore and I starting having electrical issues and a car that didn't start anymore.
The engine bay arrangement is temporary. I will be installing a power bus and a positive and negative terminal in the bay when I start the swap.
09-03-2016, 08:19 PM
