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I relocated ABS and fuse box too. As for a/c unit, I fought to keep it but in the end, it's best to get the engine running and add on a/c with the smallest vintage-air unit. things are ultratight with 20b in the engine bay with all the large plumbing and extra lines for oil, fuel, etc. pm me with your email address and I will send you some photos.
I relocated ABS and fuse box too. As for a/c unit, I fought to keep it but in the end, it's best to get the engine running and add on a/c with the smallest vintage-air unit. things are ultratight with 20b in the engine bay with all the large plumbing and extra lines for oil, fuel, etc. pm me with your email address and I will send you some photos.
Well had no real drama with the AC unit as I relocated rx8 alt to side mount and made brackets to top mount the AC. Using a single belt to run them. Seems to be all g. Just gotta plumb the AC lines
Finished securing the cradle to the chassis. Used some spare suspension bolts with subframe washers for more strength/spread
Just need 150kg rated tie downs x2 to keep the tank secured to the cradle.
Thought I better shorten the tie rod end extenders I made, or never be able to steer the damn thing. Managed to get the front wheels fairly straight.
ABS, damn u abs! I spent a full day just planing the ABS pump location before finally deciding on almost the current location but upside down and under the factory location!
U know when taking on a conversion like this, it's the tiny details u don't appreciate, so I included pics of the ABS shock rubbers washers countersunk to suit the nuts...
Liking the new location! Mount the igniters on top of the abs and it becomes stealth ABS.
AND a front end pic at the end of a good days work.
Ordered from ebay the pipe flare tool and cutter and bender so I can reroute the brake lines.
Should have the manifold back by tomorrow night. (Bout time)
Oh n I forgot to mention, I brought my girl home, after her 5month stay with the slowest worker on the planet! 5months to do only 90% of the two jobs I gave him! Fkin blow that, was costing me $20 every day I drove there to do some work on her myself. Finally fed up after he missed the third deadline.
Some pics of towing day. Got her feet on the ground, sexy as hell
sorry it took so long. it's just been too hot until today. quite the contrary to our huddle under the tarp on a snowy day!
I personally don't think relocating the fuse box was worth all the effort. If I had to do it all over again, I wouldn't touch the fuse box. It cleans up the engine bay only a tiny bit (as you can see).. it took me about 10 weekends of soldering and splicing.. but I started as a complete newbie to wiring. Only good thing that came about it was my electrical skills which is quite handy to have.
as for ABS, that's how I relocated it but it's not working for whatever reason... I can't figure it out.
if you still want to relocate the fuse box, I advise you use the HELLA fuse boxes and mini relay box as shown in the pictures. They are cheap on amazon and come with all hardware. For high amp stuff, I used MAXI fuse holder which is working out well.
As you start working on the wiring though, you're realize that some relays are better left in the engine bay to get the voltage where it is needed... like the fan relay, EPS, and ABS. If I ever feel up for it, I probably relocate them back into the engine bay because with the amperage you need at those devices, your voltage drop would be significant unless you use heavy gauge wires which kinda defeats the whole purpose of relocating things into the dash.
hey I forgot to mention your car is looking fantastic! LPG is pretty wild, and it would be very interesting when it comes time to tune it. 20b on LPG would sound like pure silk. Love to hear it when it's running! Good luck.
hey I forgot to mention your car is looking fantastic! LPG is pretty wild, and it would be very interesting when it comes time to tune it. 20b on LPG would sound like pure silk. Love to hear it when it's running! Good luck.
I used a second loom to extend the steer relay and all the ECU and fuse box stuff. So the steering and fans are all using the same original wiring, so hopefully adequate.
Gee I hope ur abs malfunction is not due to being upside down!, cause I'm gonna be in trouble too.
Well transformed the little sill plate into a badge to cover the sequential twin turbo one. It's very thin aluminium so not sure it'll hold up to the heat
Test paint the intake for appearance. Think it looks ok..
Installed the filler valve. Nice easy job for a change.
Spent two hrs trying to correct two cross threaded abs fittings!, fkfkfkfk! It looked straight from under the car while screwing it in but damn it was shocking from the side, grrrr.
I flared and cut all the abs pipes, only prob was the kit I bought didn't have the correct small pipe size, so that took a bit of extra mucking about to clamp the pipe while flaring.. Got there in the end. Will be interesting to see if it doesn't leak like a sieve haha.
I would be very curious to know whether abs pump being upside down matters at all. I can't imagine it would. It's just a motor and bunch of solenoids. It should theoretically work in space. Only issue I could think of was possible bleeding issue, but my pedal pressure is good.
I would be very curious to know whether abs pump being upside down matters at all. I can't imagine it would. It's just a motor and bunch of solenoids. It should theoretically work in space. Only issue I could think of was possible bleeding issue, but my pedal pressure is good.
if you have interpreting the diagram, let me know. from the look of it, it has 2 switched 12v input from relay (do not skimp on the wire gauge here--they have 2 12v input for a reason). it probably grounds with the body like the starter motor.
I have just discovered an earth on my main line on the main engine fuse box. I tracked it to the BTN thick green wire that runs to the side panel fuses. If i pull the green wire out of x06 plug then I no longer have the problem. Anyway I checked my gfs rx8, testing the same green wire at the side panel fuse box and detected earth, in fact all of bottom half of those fuses have earth, same as on my car, yet when testing her main fuse box at the main 120amp fuse and no earth! I don't understand? Also my male spade pin on starter (the one the blue/red wire connects to from relay) is detecting earth when tested with multiM. Is this normal? Attached the starter diagram
I shld mention I don't have the steer wheel attached nor the clock spring.
Last edited by SiNfidelity; 10-06-2015 at 06:49 AM.
My starter relay is receiving 12v from the stock ECU when I turn the key to start position, but it's spose to be an earth signal!!
I have many sensors not connected but I'm pretty confident everything that IS connected is connected correctly.
I unplugged the ECU plug with the w/g feed to relay and earthed the relay as it shld be on the w/g pin and the starter turns.
Attached is the diagram. Can anyone offer a suggestion? Could it be an immobiliser problem? I've had the ECU out not running for about 12months. So I'm wondering does the ECU need to be re-coded?
I also don't have a condenser from the ECU to ground, would this cause it? I can't imagine this would cause 12v to travel from ECU
Oh and my horn honks continuessly when I hook it up and turn on the key! I'm sure my car does not have the horn linked up to security system etc. my horn never honks when I press the lock button.
So the wiring in this car is hectic, especially for a novice. Anyway, getting there slowly.
Discovered the dude who was helping me (cough) hooked up the heater to the horn and visa versa. (Both same coloured wires) so when u turn the key on the horn would honk and when u turn the heater on, well I dunno, nothing lol.
Anyway fixed. Also a new clock spring. So now I just gotta figure why the ECU is not sending a ground signal to the starter relay....
08-20-2015, 06:27 PM
