Is This A Good Buy? (First Car + First RX8!)
10-23-2011, 01:58 PM
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Is This A Good Buy? (First Car + First RX8!)
New here, I'm 16, hopefully going to get my first car next weekend [dealer], this car happens to be an RX-8.
It has 102,000 miles on it - Grand Touring Edition - 2004 - Excellent Condition
Price: $7700 (Talked down to this price)
From what I've seen/researched, it's easily worth $11,000-$13,000. This is a good deal, right?
It has 102,000 miles on it - Grand Touring Edition - 2004 - Excellent Condition
Price: $7700 (Talked down to this price)
From what I've seen/researched, it's easily worth $11,000-$13,000. This is a good deal, right?
10-23-2011, 02:14 PM
#2
New here, I'm 16, hopefully going to get my first car next weekend [dealer], this car happens to be an RX-8.
It has 102,000 miles on it - Grand Touring Edition - 2004 - Excellent Condition
Price: $7700 (Talked down to this price)
From what I've seen/researched, it's easily worth $11,000-$13,000. This is a good deal, right?
It has 102,000 miles on it - Grand Touring Edition - 2004 - Excellent Condition
Price: $7700 (Talked down to this price)
From what I've seen/researched, it's easily worth $11,000-$13,000. This is a good deal, right?
10-23-2011, 02:22 PM
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http://www.horsepowermotorsonline.co...photos/929833/
Scroll down
Nothing needs replacement according to them, everything is great mechanically.
Here are the CarFax.
http://www.carfax.com/VehicleHistory...FE173440134338
10-23-2011, 02:36 PM
#4
All photos may be seen here:
http://www.horsepowermotorsonline.co...photos/929833/
Scroll down
Nothing needs replacement according to them, everything is great mechanically.
Here are the CarFax.
http://www.carfax.com/VehicleHistory...FE173440134338
http://www.horsepowermotorsonline.co...photos/929833/
Scroll down
Nothing needs replacement according to them, everything is great mechanically.
Here are the CarFax.
http://www.carfax.com/VehicleHistory...FE173440134338
10-23-2011, 02:58 PM
#6
get the service records! searching is your friend and there are many threads going over this topic in detail over and over again. a mechanic should be able to tell, and for compression see about having them take it to mazda to get that done. make sure you get paperwork for everything, but it would be good measure to just ask to have compression checked since you will want to put new plugs, wires, and coils anyways.
10-23-2011, 04:45 PM
#7
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That's a good one!
Go to ANY car dealer, and tell them you want to trade in an '04 RX-8 with $102k miles on it for whatever brand new car they have on their lot, and see how much they are willing to offer you. I think you will have your eyes opened real quick when you see the real value of the car.
BC.
10-23-2011, 05:39 PM
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Hahahahhahahahahaaaa!
That's a good one!
Go to ANY car dealer, and tell them you want to trade in an '04 RX-8 with $102k miles on it for whatever brand new car they have on their lot, and see how much they are willing to offer you. I think you will have your eyes opened real quick when you see the real value of the car.
BC.
That's a good one!
Go to ANY car dealer, and tell them you want to trade in an '04 RX-8 with $102k miles on it for whatever brand new car they have on their lot, and see how much they are willing to offer you. I think you will have your eyes opened real quick when you see the real value of the car.
BC.
I could be wrong as to what it's worth, although my definition of the word for sure isn't the "trade in value".
10-23-2011, 05:54 PM
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NADA value is close to $10k:
http://nadaguides.com/Cars/2004/Mazd...dard-Equipment
KBB value is around $12k.
Can I please get a simple yes/no if I'm getting a good deal?
http://nadaguides.com/Cars/2004/Mazd...dard-Equipment
KBB value is around $12k.
Can I please get a simple yes/no if I'm getting a good deal?
10-23-2011, 06:08 PM
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No, we can't give you a simple yes/no. Because if it was dumped because it's engine is failing and it's now past the warranty, then it's only worth maybe $3,000 - $4,000.
DO NOT BUY THAT CAR unless you either have A) a compression check or B) an extended warranty that covers engine failure (or C, a bank account balance or mechanical skills that can handle replacing the engine on your own)
From my new owner's thread, if you haven't read it yet: (https://www.rx8club.com/new-member-forum-197/new-potential-owners-start-here-202454/)
And since you are a teenager and it's your first car, I'm putting this in here too.
DO NOT BUY THAT CAR unless you either have A) a compression check or B) an extended warranty that covers engine failure (or C, a bank account balance or mechanical skills that can handle replacing the engine on your own)
From my new owner's thread, if you haven't read it yet: (https://www.rx8club.com/new-member-forum-197/new-potential-owners-start-here-202454/)
...still ready to buy? What you should ask and look for
So, if, after reading everything above, and you still want to purchase an RX-8, here is a list of things to look for and/or ask questions about. Private sellers are more likely to know the answers, dealers less likely.
Note: These are in ADDITION to any questions that you should ask of any car you are thinking about buying, regardless of year, make, or model. These are RX-8 specific questions only.
Any item with a blue Mazda next to it can be answered by calling Mazda if the seller doesn't know, (or you think they are making it up / lying)
Any item with an orange year (like 2004) next to it means that the question applies for that year.
(in no particular order)
- Engine ever replaced [Mazda]
- - Mileage on current engine [Mazda]
- Engine Compression
- Catalytic converter replaced
- Mileage of last coil change
- - Has it ever had one or more coils fail on it with the current cat?
- Mileage of last plug change
- Mileage of last plug wire change
- Has it ever been flooded? (cat life remaining info)
- Tail lights ever replaced? [2004, 2005]
- - If not, have the seals ever been replaced, or the tailights modified to drain water?
- Oil consumption (ask in how many miles between adding a quart or half a quart, and have them tell you which it was))
- MSP 13 performed by a dealer, and date / mileage [Mazda 2004, 2005]
- Gas mileage typically seen
- Number of miles typically on the trip odometer when the low gas light comes on
(yes, ask both gas mileage questions)
- Starter replaced to the upgraded version [2004, 2005]
- Temperature control **** ever replaced or repaired [2004, 2005]
- Clutch pedal assembly ever replaced, re-welded, or re-inforced
Come back here with the answers and we can give you a heads up or a general idea on any red flags or warnings to keep in mind. Not all of them would mean "don't buy", but may help reduce the asking price.
So I need a compression test right?
Yes. And it can not be done with a standard analog compression tester for piston engines. A typical cheap analog tester just plugs into a spark plug port and as the engine cranks, the needle moves, and you can easily see where it's swinging to every compression stroke. 1 spark plug, 1 cylinder, 1 compression number.
The rotary however is 1 spark plug, 3 rotor cavities, 3 compression numbers per revolution. There is no way for a simple analog tester to record each face of the rotor independently as it spins, updating each number correctly as it compresses.
Piston engines also have relatively the same compression number regardless of how fast the engine is pumping. If there is a loss of compression due to a seal or whatever, there will be some loss as it compresses, and a slower RPM will read slightly less as it allows slightly more time to leak. Rotary engines have plenty of 'gaps', and there is a very real and measurable difference in compression depending on engine cranking speed. The faster it spins the higher the compression. You can even remove the apex seals completely, and it gets enough compression at 9,000rpm to stay alive, though not much below that it won't. (incidentally, this is an often over-looked dynamic of how the engine produces it's power curve, and how it doesn't have severe drop-off in power the higher you go in RPM the way piston engines do, and one of the reasons low rpm torque is so poor. Not the only reason, but a contributing factor). So, in addition to the 2 sets of 3 numbers for each of the 3 faces of each of the 2 rotors, you need the crank RPM for the test. A normalization chart based on RPM determines if you are pass or fail.
http://www.twistedrotors.com/images/..._Comp_Test.jpg
Many dealers also obtain a BARO voltage reading test to determine vacuum as another method of determining pass or fail. Vacuum is related to compression, but it isn't the same thing, and is possible for them to differ more than expected. There have been quite a few reports of Mazda techs returning BARO numbers that clearly fail and stating that they pass, so if it fails compression but passes vacuum, I'd question the techs quite a bit about making sure they did it right.
If anyone comes across the testing proceedure for this test, please PM me, I'd love to link it
Only Mazda dealers will be able to do a compression test, unless you happen to live near one of the bare handful of non-Mazda owned rotary compression testers.
Your best bet is to simply ask the dealer if you can take it to get a compression test. If they decline, they ask if they can do it. If they still decline, then they probably have something to hide and you should immediately cross that 8 off your list, no matter how much surface appeal it has.
No reputable dealer will object to having one of their cars checked over by a 3rd party, ESPECIALLY when it's a particular check that only Mazda dealers can do. A129 million point inspection means nothing if they don't have a rotary compression tester to check the most critical part. Or convince them to cover the engine with an extended warranty on THEIR dime. "Hey, if you can't check the engine, I'm taking a risk buying it, and you need to cover it in case I'm buying a time bomb."
So, if, after reading everything above, and you still want to purchase an RX-8, here is a list of things to look for and/or ask questions about. Private sellers are more likely to know the answers, dealers less likely.
Note: These are in ADDITION to any questions that you should ask of any car you are thinking about buying, regardless of year, make, or model. These are RX-8 specific questions only.
Any item with a blue Mazda next to it can be answered by calling Mazda if the seller doesn't know, (or you think they are making it up / lying)
Any item with an orange year (like 2004) next to it means that the question applies for that year.
(in no particular order)
- Engine ever replaced [Mazda]
- - Mileage on current engine [Mazda]
- Engine Compression
- Catalytic converter replaced
- Mileage of last coil change
- - Has it ever had one or more coils fail on it with the current cat?
- Mileage of last plug change
- Mileage of last plug wire change
- Has it ever been flooded? (cat life remaining info)
- Tail lights ever replaced? [2004, 2005]
- - If not, have the seals ever been replaced, or the tailights modified to drain water?
- Oil consumption (ask in how many miles between adding a quart or half a quart, and have them tell you which it was))
- MSP 13 performed by a dealer, and date / mileage [Mazda 2004, 2005]
- Gas mileage typically seen
- Number of miles typically on the trip odometer when the low gas light comes on
(yes, ask both gas mileage questions)
- Starter replaced to the upgraded version [2004, 2005]
- Temperature control **** ever replaced or repaired [2004, 2005]
- Clutch pedal assembly ever replaced, re-welded, or re-inforced
Come back here with the answers and we can give you a heads up or a general idea on any red flags or warnings to keep in mind. Not all of them would mean "don't buy", but may help reduce the asking price.
So I need a compression test right?
Yes. And it can not be done with a standard analog compression tester for piston engines. A typical cheap analog tester just plugs into a spark plug port and as the engine cranks, the needle moves, and you can easily see where it's swinging to every compression stroke. 1 spark plug, 1 cylinder, 1 compression number.
The rotary however is 1 spark plug, 3 rotor cavities, 3 compression numbers per revolution. There is no way for a simple analog tester to record each face of the rotor independently as it spins, updating each number correctly as it compresses.
Piston engines also have relatively the same compression number regardless of how fast the engine is pumping. If there is a loss of compression due to a seal or whatever, there will be some loss as it compresses, and a slower RPM will read slightly less as it allows slightly more time to leak. Rotary engines have plenty of 'gaps', and there is a very real and measurable difference in compression depending on engine cranking speed. The faster it spins the higher the compression. You can even remove the apex seals completely, and it gets enough compression at 9,000rpm to stay alive, though not much below that it won't. (incidentally, this is an often over-looked dynamic of how the engine produces it's power curve, and how it doesn't have severe drop-off in power the higher you go in RPM the way piston engines do, and one of the reasons low rpm torque is so poor. Not the only reason, but a contributing factor). So, in addition to the 2 sets of 3 numbers for each of the 3 faces of each of the 2 rotors, you need the crank RPM for the test. A normalization chart based on RPM determines if you are pass or fail.
http://www.twistedrotors.com/images/..._Comp_Test.jpg
Many dealers also obtain a BARO voltage reading test to determine vacuum as another method of determining pass or fail. Vacuum is related to compression, but it isn't the same thing, and is possible for them to differ more than expected. There have been quite a few reports of Mazda techs returning BARO numbers that clearly fail and stating that they pass, so if it fails compression but passes vacuum, I'd question the techs quite a bit about making sure they did it right.
If anyone comes across the testing proceedure for this test, please PM me, I'd love to link it
Only Mazda dealers will be able to do a compression test, unless you happen to live near one of the bare handful of non-Mazda owned rotary compression testers.
Your best bet is to simply ask the dealer if you can take it to get a compression test. If they decline, they ask if they can do it. If they still decline, then they probably have something to hide and you should immediately cross that 8 off your list, no matter how much surface appeal it has.
No reputable dealer will object to having one of their cars checked over by a 3rd party, ESPECIALLY when it's a particular check that only Mazda dealers can do. A129 million point inspection means nothing if they don't have a rotary compression tester to check the most critical part. Or convince them to cover the engine with an extended warranty on THEIR dime. "Hey, if you can't check the engine, I'm taking a risk buying it, and you need to cover it in case I'm buying a time bomb."
And since you are a teenager and it's your first car, I'm putting this in here too.
Young Owners:
(This was writen to one specific owner, but I am leaving it with the personal and targeted verbage)
A side note added: about a year after I wrote this to that specific owner, he totaled his 8. One of the best and most respectable kids to show up on the boards, and it still happened to him.
To be brutally honest though, we often make heavy attempts to steer kids (sorry, you are ) away from the 8 as a first car. First cars are usually neglected, abused, and/or wrecked. And we don't imply that it would all be your fault either. My first car last 2.5 months, ending it's life with an SUV landing on it's hood while I was stopped. **** happens. How prepared are you to lose a car that you will probably form an emotional attachment to? (it happens. Everyone either loves or hates this car)
Abusing the 8 doesn't have the same definition as other cars, but, with no real road experience, driving the 8 properly is insanely easy to land you in significant legal trouble. My first day driving my 8 I was up to 123 on I-70 winding through the mountains without any straights before I got woken up from heaven by passing another car like it was standing still, glanced down at the speedo and was shocked to realize how fast I was. Most owners have this same type of experience. If it happens at a bad point, you are talking arrestable.
Again, you seem smarter than most teenagers that come on here, and with the money saved up for it, more responsible and probably would take better care of it, but just some things to keep in mind. You can find a great Miata for a few thousand that will help teach you about maintenance while still getting the same handling without nearly the speed potential.
Regardless of your decision, I highly highly highly recommend you get to local SCCA autocross events. Seriously. Even 1 event will help improve your driving. Keep doing it for fun and education though, it's the best bang for the buck that you can have in your own car. Driver mods before car mods.
(This was writen to one specific owner, but I am leaving it with the personal and targeted verbage)
A side note added: about a year after I wrote this to that specific owner, he totaled his 8. One of the best and most respectable kids to show up on the boards, and it still happened to him.
To be brutally honest though, we often make heavy attempts to steer kids (sorry, you are ) away from the 8 as a first car. First cars are usually neglected, abused, and/or wrecked. And we don't imply that it would all be your fault either. My first car last 2.5 months, ending it's life with an SUV landing on it's hood while I was stopped. **** happens. How prepared are you to lose a car that you will probably form an emotional attachment to? (it happens. Everyone either loves or hates this car)
Abusing the 8 doesn't have the same definition as other cars, but, with no real road experience, driving the 8 properly is insanely easy to land you in significant legal trouble. My first day driving my 8 I was up to 123 on I-70 winding through the mountains without any straights before I got woken up from heaven by passing another car like it was standing still, glanced down at the speedo and was shocked to realize how fast I was. Most owners have this same type of experience. If it happens at a bad point, you are talking arrestable.
Again, you seem smarter than most teenagers that come on here, and with the money saved up for it, more responsible and probably would take better care of it, but just some things to keep in mind. You can find a great Miata for a few thousand that will help teach you about maintenance while still getting the same handling without nearly the speed potential.
Regardless of your decision, I highly highly highly recommend you get to local SCCA autocross events. Seriously. Even 1 event will help improve your driving. Keep doing it for fun and education though, it's the best bang for the buck that you can have in your own car. Driver mods before car mods.
10-23-2011, 06:27 PM
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I've just emailed them asking if they've done a compression test. If this is a no, I'll ask if they will. If this is a no, I'll ask if I can. If this is a no, I'll look elsewhere.
Alright then, if they have had the compression test or I do / everything checks out, is it a safe buy?
Alright then, if they have had the compression test or I do / everything checks out, is it a safe buy?
10-23-2011, 07:24 PM
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Yes, assuming you are covering yourself on the engine (either with good numbers or a warranty), then it's a safe buy.
Looking through the information a bit more, I'd say that verifying the engine is pretty critical.
My gut tells me that the previous owner dumped it because the engine was going or because he didn't want to deal with it after warranty. Or because the warranty was refused. Take a look at the history. Up until the first mileage report (51,000), it had 8 oil changes reported. This means that it was likely that it was entirely dealer maintained, however it averaged 6,300 miles between each change. After the mileage started showing up on Carfax, it was 10k to 11k between changes.
Since it was sold, it also changed dealers quite a bit.
...3 dealer's titled it while they had it. It was sold at auction 3 times, and from the sequence, it appears to have passed through a total of 6 dealers (I don't see any individual actually using it like that). It's also done 7,500 miles since the first owner sold it and it started it's dealer circuit (and possibly the same oil? Any oil top-offs from the dealer drivers. No way they know the quirks of this car). To be for sale for $7,700 now, the current dealer must have paid less, probably far less. I'd say the original owner sold or traded it for probably $5k or less.
My gut tells me SOMETHING is going on with it, although it's possible that each location simply priced it too high, then just dumped it rather than sitting on it when it wouldn't sell.
Considering that the condition of everything visible isn't TOO bad for a 102k mile car, I'd say that $7,700 is a good price if you know the engine is healthy, or you have a financial umbrella in case it isn't. You can get better prices, but with something obviously wrong.
Looking through the information a bit more, I'd say that verifying the engine is pretty critical.
My gut tells me that the previous owner dumped it because the engine was going or because he didn't want to deal with it after warranty. Or because the warranty was refused. Take a look at the history. Up until the first mileage report (51,000), it had 8 oil changes reported. This means that it was likely that it was entirely dealer maintained, however it averaged 6,300 miles between each change. After the mileage started showing up on Carfax, it was 10k to 11k between changes.
Since it was sold, it also changed dealers quite a bit.
08/23/2010 95,269 Kings Mazda
Cincinnati, OH
513-683-4900
www.kingsmazda.com Battery/charging system/starter checked
Brakes checked
Tire condition and pressure checked
Maintenance inspection completed
Oil and filter changed chassis lubricated
09/13/2010 95,438 Ohio
Motor Vehicle Dept.
Cincinnati, OH Vehicle purchase reported
(Purchase 1)
09/17/2010 Ohio
Motor Vehicle Dept.
Cincinnati, OH
Title #3106291781 Title issued or updated
Dealer took title of this vehicle
while it was in inventory
11/08/2010 95,756 Auto Auction
Ohio Listed as a dealer vehicle
Sold at auction
11/17/2010 Ohio
Motor Vehicle Dept.
Waynesville, OH Vehicle purchase reported
(Purchase 2)
02/07/2011 95,904 Auto Auction
Ohio Listed as a dealer vehicle
Sold at auction
02/10/2011 Ohio
Motor Vehicle Dept.
Waynesville, OH
Title #8301577271 Title issued or updated
Dealer took title of this vehicle
while it was in inventory
(Purchase 3)
03/01/2011 96,121 Online Listing Vehicle offered for sale
08/02/2011 102,695 Kerry Toyota Scion
Florence, KY Vehicle offered for sale
(Purchase 4, notice the state change))
09/16/2011 102,708 Kentucky
Motor Vehicle Dept.
Walton, KY
Title #112590080167 Title issued or updated
New owner reported
Vehicle color noted as Silver
(Purchase 5)
10/03/2011 102,754 Auto Auction
Ohio Listed as a dealer vehicle
Sold at auction
10/06/2011 Kentucky
Motor Vehicle Dept.
Florence, KY
Title #112790080066 Title issued or updated
Dealer took title of this vehicle
while it was in inventory
Vehicle color noted as Silver
(Purchase 6)
Cincinnati, OH
513-683-4900
www.kingsmazda.com Battery/charging system/starter checked
Brakes checked
Tire condition and pressure checked
Maintenance inspection completed
Oil and filter changed chassis lubricated
09/13/2010 95,438 Ohio
Motor Vehicle Dept.
Cincinnati, OH Vehicle purchase reported
(Purchase 1)
09/17/2010 Ohio
Motor Vehicle Dept.
Cincinnati, OH
Title #3106291781 Title issued or updated
Dealer took title of this vehicle
while it was in inventory
11/08/2010 95,756 Auto Auction
Ohio Listed as a dealer vehicle
Sold at auction
11/17/2010 Ohio
Motor Vehicle Dept.
Waynesville, OH Vehicle purchase reported
(Purchase 2)
02/07/2011 95,904 Auto Auction
Ohio Listed as a dealer vehicle
Sold at auction
02/10/2011 Ohio
Motor Vehicle Dept.
Waynesville, OH
Title #8301577271 Title issued or updated
Dealer took title of this vehicle
while it was in inventory
(Purchase 3)
03/01/2011 96,121 Online Listing Vehicle offered for sale
08/02/2011 102,695 Kerry Toyota Scion
Florence, KY Vehicle offered for sale
(Purchase 4, notice the state change))
09/16/2011 102,708 Kentucky
Motor Vehicle Dept.
Walton, KY
Title #112590080167 Title issued or updated
New owner reported
Vehicle color noted as Silver
(Purchase 5)
10/03/2011 102,754 Auto Auction
Ohio Listed as a dealer vehicle
Sold at auction
10/06/2011 Kentucky
Motor Vehicle Dept.
Florence, KY
Title #112790080066 Title issued or updated
Dealer took title of this vehicle
while it was in inventory
Vehicle color noted as Silver
(Purchase 6)
My gut tells me SOMETHING is going on with it, although it's possible that each location simply priced it too high, then just dumped it rather than sitting on it when it wouldn't sell.
Considering that the condition of everything visible isn't TOO bad for a 102k mile car, I'd say that $7,700 is a good price if you know the engine is healthy, or you have a financial umbrella in case it isn't. You can get better prices, but with something obviously wrong.
Last edited by RIWWP; 10-23-2011 at 07:36 PM.
10-23-2011, 08:57 PM
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Indeed, RIWWP seems to know what he is talking about. Thank you for that long and detailed post.
I do not have a "financial umbrella" as I'm only 16. I go to High School where I take college classes, on top of actually attending college after school for Business. I have no time for a job and my money comes from an unstable source that I never know if I'll make $1,000 a week or $0.
This means that the only way I seem to be buying this car is with a compression test to tell me if the motor needs to be replaced.
You said everything visible isn't "TOO bad", as if to emphasize that there were some small spots wrong. Did I miss something? It looks perfect from my inexperienced point-of-view.
I do not wish to buy something cheaper with a problem. It seems far too much like a gamble to me. If anything, if I can find a car within my area (KY, IN, OH, TN) that is $9,000-$10,000 at a dealer, I may be able to buy that.
Well, I might as well explain my situation. As I said, I'm 16. I have around $7,000 personally to spend and my Dad did agree to pay part (he would pay around $3,000). I was going to check out a 2009 RX8 in KY for $9000 that had 67,000 miles on it. It was owned by a 60-year old grandma that bought it during a mid-life crysis (lol). It was overall in good condition, although the pictures of the engine just didn't look appealing and the paint had a couple blemishes. Anyway, my Dad wouldn't end up going as it was around 5 hours roundtrip to check out a car that he hadn't seen. He ended up saying no and I have been super mad. I decided I would use my $7,000 and get the rest from my Mom to purchase this one from the dealer. However, I feel that if I hold off and look around, find one at a dealer, save up my money, and get some from my Dad, that I can have a budget of around $9,000-$10,000 and find one with a little less miles and something more.. "trustworthy".
Obviously the choice is to wait, although the $10,000 budget is hypothetical and it may not happen. I really thought this RX8 from the dealer was a GREAT deal, and I think if I let it go I'll regret it.
I do not have a "financial umbrella" as I'm only 16. I go to High School where I take college classes, on top of actually attending college after school for Business. I have no time for a job and my money comes from an unstable source that I never know if I'll make $1,000 a week or $0.
This means that the only way I seem to be buying this car is with a compression test to tell me if the motor needs to be replaced.
You said everything visible isn't "TOO bad", as if to emphasize that there were some small spots wrong. Did I miss something? It looks perfect from my inexperienced point-of-view.
I do not wish to buy something cheaper with a problem. It seems far too much like a gamble to me. If anything, if I can find a car within my area (KY, IN, OH, TN) that is $9,000-$10,000 at a dealer, I may be able to buy that.
Well, I might as well explain my situation. As I said, I'm 16. I have around $7,000 personally to spend and my Dad did agree to pay part (he would pay around $3,000). I was going to check out a 2009 RX8 in KY for $9000 that had 67,000 miles on it. It was owned by a 60-year old grandma that bought it during a mid-life crysis (lol). It was overall in good condition, although the pictures of the engine just didn't look appealing and the paint had a couple blemishes. Anyway, my Dad wouldn't end up going as it was around 5 hours roundtrip to check out a car that he hadn't seen. He ended up saying no and I have been super mad. I decided I would use my $7,000 and get the rest from my Mom to purchase this one from the dealer. However, I feel that if I hold off and look around, find one at a dealer, save up my money, and get some from my Dad, that I can have a budget of around $9,000-$10,000 and find one with a little less miles and something more.. "trustworthy".
Obviously the choice is to wait, although the $10,000 budget is hypothetical and it may not happen. I really thought this RX8 from the dealer was a GREAT deal, and I think if I let it go I'll regret it.
10-23-2011, 09:18 PM
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10-23-2011, 09:26 PM
#16
don't be fooled by a supposedly "GREAT" deal.
No one on these boards will be able to tell you if this is a good buy or not. All we have to go by is the details, which YOU provide us with (a CARFAX only tells so much...).
Personally, I would recommend looking for a different car. Don't spend all your money in one place. Have enough to cover any maintenance issues.
No one on these boards will be able to tell you if this is a good buy or not. All we have to go by is the details, which YOU provide us with (a CARFAX only tells so much...).
Personally, I would recommend looking for a different car. Don't spend all your money in one place. Have enough to cover any maintenance issues.
10-23-2011, 09:36 PM
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I am curious as to what your "unstatable" source of income is...
As to the RX8 you offered on here, I would be willing to bet buying from a decent member on the site is more trustworthy than buying from a dealer that may be shady.
As to the RX8 you offered on here, I would be willing to bet buying from a decent member on the site is more trustworthy than buying from a dealer that may be shady.
10-23-2011, 09:50 PM
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don't be fooled by a supposedly "GREAT" deal.
No one on these boards will be able to tell you if this is a good buy or not. All we have to go by is the details, which YOU provide us with (a CARFAX only tells so much...).
Personally, I would recommend looking for a different car. Don't spend all your money in one place. Have enough to cover any maintenance issues.
No one on these boards will be able to tell you if this is a good buy or not. All we have to go by is the details, which YOU provide us with (a CARFAX only tells so much...).
Personally, I would recommend looking for a different car. Don't spend all your money in one place. Have enough to cover any maintenance issues.
I do agree with that 100%. That's why I'm looking around on here!
:D
10-23-2011, 11:28 PM
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Something on the corner of the bumper here. http://photos.ecarlist.com/vS/m1/ed/.../pB/Tw_800.jpg It's not reflecting the lights, it's blocking the reflection.
And the interior has wear and tear too.
Again, not too bad for a 102k mile car, if the engine checked out fine.
I agree with the other comments though, you are more likely to be in better hands buying from someone here.
10-24-2011, 08:16 PM
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I really like this one:
https://www.rx8club.com/rx-8s-sale-wanted-43/04-vertex-matte-white-gt-rx-8-f-s-221618/
I think he'll take $10k.
If not, this guy will take $10k as we've been discussing it:
https://www.rx8club.com/rx-8s-sale-wanted-43/2005-mazda-rx8-6spd-sale-221395/
The second one has some body "blemishes", as he took a small video for me. Although nothing major, it appears in good shape. The first one just looks amazing and has a lot of mods already on it!
https://www.rx8club.com/rx-8s-sale-wanted-43/04-vertex-matte-white-gt-rx-8-f-s-221618/
I think he'll take $10k.
If not, this guy will take $10k as we've been discussing it:
https://www.rx8club.com/rx-8s-sale-wanted-43/2005-mazda-rx8-6spd-sale-221395/
The second one has some body "blemishes", as he took a small video for me. Although nothing major, it appears in good shape. The first one just looks amazing and has a lot of mods already on it!
10-24-2011, 08:47 PM
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Oooh, the first one is a well known car. If you end up with that one, you will get lots of hate if you don't take care of it. Personally it would bother me a bit going to a teenager, considering the teenager history we have. Cars wrecked, neglected, destroyed, etc...
10-24-2011, 08:53 PM
#23
instead of posting an interest in every rx8 sale, pick out things you specially want for your car.
If you look at the 2 you just posted, they are COMPLETELY different. It looks as though you're saying "Me have monies! Give me NOW!!!"
I understand your want to have an 8 ASAP. But, with more research and understanding, you will eventually find the car you're looking for. Just be patient!
If you look at the 2 you just posted, they are COMPLETELY different. It looks as though you're saying "Me have monies! Give me NOW!!!"
I understand your want to have an 8 ASAP. But, with more research and understanding, you will eventually find the car you're looking for. Just be patient!
10-24-2011, 10:42 PM
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How is it well known exactly?
instead of posting an interest in every rx8 sale, pick out things you specially want for your car.
If you look at the 2 you just posted, they are COMPLETELY different. It looks as though you're saying "Me have monies! Give me NOW!!!"
I understand your want to have an 8 ASAP. But, with more research and understanding, you will eventually find the car you're looking for. Just be patient!
If you look at the 2 you just posted, they are COMPLETELY different. It looks as though you're saying "Me have monies! Give me NOW!!!"
I understand your want to have an 8 ASAP. But, with more research and understanding, you will eventually find the car you're looking for. Just be patient!
The second I like specifically for the mileage.
I have somewhat of a tight budget with $10,000 to find a great RX8, I can't be too picky..
10-24-2011, 10:54 PM
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Wow, I really like the White RX8. I have a 350z that a local guy wants me to buy (along with me trading my motorcycle), and I have a couple more cars I can easily get, but I really want that one..
I'm hoping he'll do $10k.
I'm hoping he'll do $10k.
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