RockLobster

They gave me basically 4 different options on the gear ratios. I bought the same rear gear you have.

Can be built with either of these two:

2.66 1.78 1.30 1.00 w/ over drive options of .75 .50 OR .80 .63
Or
2.97 2.07 1.43 1.00 w/ over drive options of .74 .50 OR .80 .63

Im definetly going with the 2nd set but not sure which of the overdrive options for that set i want to get. I think the wider set might be overkill for highway milage.

RockLobster

Did you consider the Hinson Rad/Clg kit at all? If so, why did you decide against it?

Stubbs

iTrader: (1)

No update on headers yet.

Stubbs

iTrader: (1)

Something to keep in mind is if you go to an aggressive cam down the road you can get surging if your cruising RPM is too low.

I didn't really look into the Hinson Cooling kit. I heard that there were fitment issues and I never saw any details of what the kit included.
I wanted to go overkill with my cooling system so I built it myself.

tylerdurden

I've been keeping an eye on the V8R kit for a while, it doesn't appear to be a complete kit yet, have you spoken to them about when/if they'll have things like the pedals/cooling/exhaust for sale? And do they ever plan to address electronics? Thanks, looking good BTW.

RockLobster

Your rad setup is impressive.

Stubbs

iTrader: (1)

I don't think they have a Gas Pedal, Cooling or Exhaust solution yet, and I can't speak to what they will end up doing in that regard. The issue with the gas pedal is there are a lot of different options that need to be addressed. There are different pedals for the E40, E38, E67 ecus, and Cable throttles bodies.

I'm working with V8R right now to figure out the electronics. Hopefully I should have some updates soon.

tylerdurden

Dope, keep up the good work.

RockLobster

Does the V8roadsters 8.8 mounting kit come with the finned diff cover or did you buy that separately? If you bought it separatly which one did you buy, a cover for a solid axle mustang?

Stubbs

iTrader: (1)

I bought it separately, it's for the GT500 which is a solid axle 8.8.

I had to clearance a couple of the fins with a flap wheel, but not too much.

RockLobster

Dumb question incoming...ive not owned anything blue oval...

What's the fill procedure for this diff? I'm used to all the jap 3rd member style diffs with a drain plug on the bottom and the fill plug about half way up the rear housing/cover. Fill until it pours out, put the plug in and away you go. Just looking at your cover which is the fill port? Is it the same procedure to get it full?

Stubbs

iTrader: (1)

The fill port is at the top of the diff cover so fill 'til spill doesn't work. There's a volume of oil that's specified by Ford, so I'll measure it out and dump it in.

RockLobster

Gotcha....i was worried ford had some overly complicated process like having to pull a half-shaft or something....

matthunter1448

Looking good just mounted my 8.8 still have to figure out axles though

Andykbob

Awesome build so far!!

Arca_ex

iTrader: (10)

Sorry I missed the gear ratio post. Here is a really nice tool that will help you visualize the differences.

That being said I would go for the shorter overdrive gears for sure.

MFactory® Competition Products - Gear Calculator

RockLobster

That one looks decent. This is the one i've used for qute a few years. I like the speed/RPM graph it produces....

Gearboxman - ratio calculator tool

I'm not so sure i'll regret the taller overdrives. For acceleration you really wouldn't use either of them. So to have the taller gears for cruise MPG available i think makes sense. If i rarely use 6th i won't be dissapointed but if it gets me over 30mpg on a road trip at 75mph plus i'll thank myself. Ok enough thread jacking...carry on.

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

low-end torque has it's advantages

when I owned/raced a C5 Z06 Vette I would start in 2nd, immediately shift to 4th, and then cruise in 6th on the street

r0ckh4mm3r

subscribed

iskuo

Any updates?

Stubbs

iTrader: (1)

Made some major progress over the past couple months. I had been sidetracked for a long time trying to find a set of long tube headers that would work. I finally gave up on that and pushed forward with the cast manifolds.

Engine is in the car and the wiring has been sorted out.


The PSI Conversions harness I bought was super simple to integrate. I changed the brake switch from a ground switch to the +12v switch that the GM ecu uses. I also ran a 12 gauge +12v to the relay provided by PSI and to the pump.

I put a battery box in the trunk and installed a Deka 34/70 battery. I ran 1 gauge wire from the trunk through the cabin and through the firewall into the engine bay.




I also installed a power steering cooler too keep the power steering fluid happy.


I've gotta finish my heater lines and plumb in the surge tank to finish the cooling system.
I've got a Can-Bus controller from Canbus Auto on the way which requires the ABS module for the speed signal. I had originally removed it, so now I've got to re-install it and plumb in new lines.

Really not a whole lot left to do, a lot of clean-up work and little bits to finish.

On a side note I got to fire it up for the first time today, only ran it for a few seconds since the cooling system isn't finished yet. Getting closer!

korance

what radiator and cooler is that ?

Stubbs

iTrader: (1)

The radiator is a Griffin 1-58222-X
The PS cooler is a Derale 13309

tylerdurden

Good ****.

Stubbs

iTrader: (1)

Got my CanBus Auto converter for the dash today. Pretty simple design, it uses a separate sender for the coolant temp, and a pressure switch for the oil light/oil pressure dummy gauge. The RPM signal comes from the GM ECU. It ties into the canbus hi/low wires to communicate with the dash. Speed signal comes from the stock ABS unit. I should have a complete working dash with no warning lights. I'm going to have to install an LED somewhere for the CEL from the GM ECU since the converter doesn't use it.




Only issue I've run into so far is the coolant temp sensor uses BSPT threads instead of NPT so I need to make an adapter since 1/8 BSPT to m12x1.5 adapters are pretty rare.

From what I can tell the other guys developing canbus modules are focusing on taking GM canbus outputs and converting it to Mazda canbus inputs.
This module could be useful for lots of different swaps as the only thing that needs to be programmed is the RPM input signal. Canbus Auto also has an EPS option that will allow you to retain Electronic Power Steering while eliminating the RX8 ECU.