LS1 RX8 Kit?
#28
Racefab | Home here in nz do a modified cross member to fit a ls1..
you could always enquire with them
you could always enquire with them
#30
When you say completed what do you mean?
Like everything in the car is functional same as factory? If so the answer is no
I don't have:
•cruse control
•traction control
•battery light , check engine light , traction control light are on
As the instrument cluster is run by CAN BUS
And the chevy ECU can't communicate to it without a converter box witch I am trying to get.
I've got 17k miles on mine.
Like everything in the car is functional same as factory? If so the answer is no
I don't have:
•cruse control
•traction control
•battery light , check engine light , traction control light are on
As the instrument cluster is run by CAN BUS
And the chevy ECU can't communicate to it without a converter box witch I am trying to get.
I've got 17k miles on mine.
#31
Driving my unreliable rx8
Has anyone tried to pull the dash unit and disconnect/unsolder the lights so they don't stay on?
It would be some trouble, but probably a lot less then installing a LS2
It would be some trouble, but probably a lot less then installing a LS2
#32
That's the only other option to do is solder the GM check engine light wire to control the light. It's just not something that I want to do cause is doesn't matter where I live. And I don't want to expect others to be that electricity inclined
#33
If you are looking for headers for the swap. I have a set of Hinson headers that I tried to fit for a different swap that I would sell for much less than the $935 they sell for if interested.
They were just used to mock up. Never been on a running car. They are brand new other than a few finger prints.
They were just used to mock up. Never been on a running car. They are brand new other than a few finger prints.
#35
Pistons Please
I have been working (slowly due to funds) on a module with my brother who is currently a 4th year Computer Science student who has significant experience with hacking & writing code (He operates a small business producing one off software solutions for shipping companies)
We have made a bit of progress with a code to read the CANbus data and understand what it is, and we are currently working on determining all CANbus info that is submitted and received in the mazda systems.
We have the GM side of it nailed down pretty well, using the 2009-2014 E67 GM PCM, as it offers pretty elaborate CANbus data which we feel is easiest to use to convert to something the Mazda system will be happy with, however we are still working on understanding all of the information in the Mazda CANbus system to determine if we can use an older (03-06) PCM and still extract the data we need.
I am on the fence with this module, as it is VERY time consuming (we have about 250hr into it so far), to produce something we could sell, we will need to spend some time ironing out any kinks in the system as the data lines have potential to confuse systems & induce limp modes.
I am anticipating we could produce a base module, and build onto each module what ever the customer needs depending on engine size, and options looking to be retained (ABS, TC, elec steering etc).
So far, the physical part of the module is eaaaaasy. Software, not so much.
I am anticipating the sale of my truck within the next 2-3 weeks and I will be going hard into my LS swap into the RX8 to get it functioning.
Anyone with some experience in the Mazda CANbus lines, i'd love to chat! I have been reaching out to Mazda to try to speak with some engineers in regards to figuring out what all of the signals mean & how I can manipulate them, but I have been referred mostly to Mazda Engineering Japan... and I only speak english lol
Would love to hear some input on anyone else who has experience with this.
#41
This may be handy...
This thread over on LS1tech has just come back to life after 2.5 years. Some VERY useful photos showing how things fit.
Lsx/T56 Mazda Rx8 Build Thread.. Pics inside - Page 3 - LS1TECH
I think the guy bought the stuff from Hinson originally but I have had trouble getting emails answered from them.
'LS1RX8' seems to have jumped into the gap with some well thought out alternatives.
I'm fitting a L33 variant Vortec 5.3 with 4L60E auto into my RH drive 192, 2005 over in London UK, hoping to start this summer.
It would be nice to find a more suitable diff ratio for a 6000 redline. Anyone know if other Mazdas use the same size ring and pinion? Late MX5 or something medium/large RWD that Mazda make perhaps powered by a 4 cylinder or V6?? I'n not a Mazda expert so can't help at this point.
Lsx/T56 Mazda Rx8 Build Thread.. Pics inside - Page 3 - LS1TECH
I think the guy bought the stuff from Hinson originally but I have had trouble getting emails answered from them.
'LS1RX8' seems to have jumped into the gap with some well thought out alternatives.
I'm fitting a L33 variant Vortec 5.3 with 4L60E auto into my RH drive 192, 2005 over in London UK, hoping to start this summer.
It would be nice to find a more suitable diff ratio for a 6000 redline. Anyone know if other Mazdas use the same size ring and pinion? Late MX5 or something medium/large RWD that Mazda make perhaps powered by a 4 cylinder or V6?? I'n not a Mazda expert so can't help at this point.
#42
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This thread over on LS1tech has just come back to life after 2.5 years. Some VERY useful photos showing how things fit.
Lsx/T56 Mazda Rx8 Build Thread.. Pics inside - Page 3 - LS1TECH
I think the guy bought the stuff from Hinson originally but I have had trouble getting emails answered from them.
'LS1RX8' seems to have jumped into the gap with some well thought out alternatives.
I'm fitting a L33 variant Vortec 5.3 with 4L60E auto into my RH drive 192, 2005 over in London UK, hoping to start this summer.
It would be nice to find a more suitable diff ratio for a 6000 redline. Anyone know if other Mazdas use the same size ring and pinion? Late MX5 or something medium/large RWD that Mazda make perhaps powered by a 4 cylinder or V6?? I'n not a Mazda expert so can't help at this point.
Lsx/T56 Mazda Rx8 Build Thread.. Pics inside - Page 3 - LS1TECH
I think the guy bought the stuff from Hinson originally but I have had trouble getting emails answered from them.
'LS1RX8' seems to have jumped into the gap with some well thought out alternatives.
I'm fitting a L33 variant Vortec 5.3 with 4L60E auto into my RH drive 192, 2005 over in London UK, hoping to start this summer.
It would be nice to find a more suitable diff ratio for a 6000 redline. Anyone know if other Mazdas use the same size ring and pinion? Late MX5 or something medium/large RWD that Mazda make perhaps powered by a 4 cylinder or V6?? I'n not a Mazda expert so can't help at this point.
#43
So I see via google, with the automatic listed as a 3.9:1. That would help a lot. I wonder if the RX8 automatic also had a 3.9:1, seems logical as it has a lower redline than the manual. Autos never sold as new in the UK, but there are a few around. Local Mazda dealer has no idea nor willingness to find out :-( It would save a lot of grief!!
#44
I just swapped an LS3/TR6060 combo into an RX8 using LS1RX8 kit, and here is what I have found...
First of all let me say, that in my opinion, the RX8 needs AT LEAST twice the power it came with from the factory in order to be somewhat stimulating. Swapping in another motor is one way to achieve it and arguably also the most cost effective (especially if you want any reliability or daily driveability at the end of the day).
I am biased as I have a history of taking the "soul" out of a few rotary cars in the past, and if this contradicts anyone's philosophy I can respect that. I have owned a 700hp rotary and I certainly respect anyone willing to put up with it.
Anyway...
1. The kit works well to get you going in the right direction, it situates the engine in a pretty much perfect position, relocates the steering rack, and sway bar without any headaches. It also allows you to keep your rear end and the OEM torque arm, making it more cost effective. The RX8 rear end has a suitable gear ratio and is good for about 500hp, why change it.
2. It is easy to install, although you will need little bit of custom fabrication / cutting / grinding as you go on with cooling system / exhaust / intake / air conditioning, depending on the LS platform you are using. If making a couple of brackets or using a grinder is an issue do not attempt an engine swap.
3. LS1RX8 is new and small company and cares about your business (unlike Hinson). The guy is very helpful and is continuously developing new improvements and custom applications if you ask.
4. The fact that he retains the stock subframe is not to a detriment, shipping is easy and fabrication times for kits are fast. BTW, even with a custom subframe there is no way to avoid changing steering geometry, if you want to keep the EPS rack. Such is nature of engine swaps.
5. Canbus system will eventually be available if couple of dash lights are an issue (I have a bit of OCD so this is the case, although local jurisdiction couldn't care less). Outside of what was previously mentioned, everything else works (gauges, EPS, A/C, ABS, etc.)
First of all let me say, that in my opinion, the RX8 needs AT LEAST twice the power it came with from the factory in order to be somewhat stimulating. Swapping in another motor is one way to achieve it and arguably also the most cost effective (especially if you want any reliability or daily driveability at the end of the day).
I am biased as I have a history of taking the "soul" out of a few rotary cars in the past, and if this contradicts anyone's philosophy I can respect that. I have owned a 700hp rotary and I certainly respect anyone willing to put up with it.
Anyway...
1. The kit works well to get you going in the right direction, it situates the engine in a pretty much perfect position, relocates the steering rack, and sway bar without any headaches. It also allows you to keep your rear end and the OEM torque arm, making it more cost effective. The RX8 rear end has a suitable gear ratio and is good for about 500hp, why change it.
2. It is easy to install, although you will need little bit of custom fabrication / cutting / grinding as you go on with cooling system / exhaust / intake / air conditioning, depending on the LS platform you are using. If making a couple of brackets or using a grinder is an issue do not attempt an engine swap.
3. LS1RX8 is new and small company and cares about your business (unlike Hinson). The guy is very helpful and is continuously developing new improvements and custom applications if you ask.
4. The fact that he retains the stock subframe is not to a detriment, shipping is easy and fabrication times for kits are fast. BTW, even with a custom subframe there is no way to avoid changing steering geometry, if you want to keep the EPS rack. Such is nature of engine swaps.
5. Canbus system will eventually be available if couple of dash lights are an issue (I have a bit of OCD so this is the case, although local jurisdiction couldn't care less). Outside of what was previously mentioned, everything else works (gauges, EPS, A/C, ABS, etc.)
Last edited by Pistonized; 05-13-2014 at 05:47 PM.
#46
I am just starting to drive the car, but so far so good. I used the stock RX8 exhaust so the car is no louder than stock, just very different pitch.
I took a lot of time aligning the whole drive train properly and balancing the new custom driveshaft, so vibration is not an issue (as I mentioned I have some experience with Franken-swaps and this step is crucial for proper operation).
As far as handling goes... I beefed up the front suspension a bit and put on 6 piston brakes to offset the weight difference. Overall the car is about 200-250lbs heavier, and likely more nose heavy than stock. I have not taken it to the track yet to really push it, but am not noticing any understeer on the street. Not much difference really, except it is much easier to steer with the throttle
Hope this helps, I will report back once I take it to the track. I build this thing to go after Corvettes, so handling is very important to me.
I took a lot of time aligning the whole drive train properly and balancing the new custom driveshaft, so vibration is not an issue (as I mentioned I have some experience with Franken-swaps and this step is crucial for proper operation).
As far as handling goes... I beefed up the front suspension a bit and put on 6 piston brakes to offset the weight difference. Overall the car is about 200-250lbs heavier, and likely more nose heavy than stock. I have not taken it to the track yet to really push it, but am not noticing any understeer on the street. Not much difference really, except it is much easier to steer with the throttle
Hope this helps, I will report back once I take it to the track. I build this thing to go after Corvettes, so handling is very important to me.
#47
Registered
iTrader: (9)
I am just starting to drive the car, but so far so good. I used the stock RX8 exhaust so the car is no louder than stock, just very different pitch.
I took a lot of time aligning the whole drive train properly and balancing the new custom driveshaft, so vibration is not an issue (as I mentioned I have some experience with Franken-swaps and this step is crucial for proper operation).
As far as handling goes... I beefed up the front suspension a bit and put on 6 piston brakes to offset the weight difference. Overall the car is about 200-250lbs heavier, and likely more nose heavy than stock. I have not taken it to the track yet to really push it, but am not noticing any understeer on the street. Not much difference really, except it is much easier to steer with the throttle
Hope this helps, I will report back once I take it to the track. I build this thing to go after Corvettes, so handling is very important to me.
I took a lot of time aligning the whole drive train properly and balancing the new custom driveshaft, so vibration is not an issue (as I mentioned I have some experience with Franken-swaps and this step is crucial for proper operation).
As far as handling goes... I beefed up the front suspension a bit and put on 6 piston brakes to offset the weight difference. Overall the car is about 200-250lbs heavier, and likely more nose heavy than stock. I have not taken it to the track yet to really push it, but am not noticing any understeer on the street. Not much difference really, except it is much easier to steer with the throttle
Hope this helps, I will report back once I take it to the track. I build this thing to go after Corvettes, so handling is very important to me.
#48
Uncontrollable drifter