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Old 08-27-2015, 01:58 PM
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Wont start and smells like gas

I'm looking into getting a UK spec 2004 RX-8 with 60k miles for pretty cheap, $1500, and the guy is saying it needs Apex Seals. Once I actually started talking to him he said that the car stalled out on him and he could smell gas, so he thinks it might just be flooded. He drives it 5 minutes to work and back and it stalled out on him between there and had to have it towed to his house. He hasn't driven it since it stalled out and he hasn't been able to start it. To me it sounds like its just flooded. If it was the Apex seals then he should at least be able to get it started momentarily but with possibly a rough idle and low compression. I'm sure it depends on how bad the seals actually are.


He said he's tried the de-flooding procedure but with no success. If it is just flooded then the car would be a steal, and even if I have to rebuild the engine then I still would make out pretty good depending on how much damage there is to the internals and how much I actually have to replace.


I'm curious if anyone has any advice on what it could be, if not the Apex seals, or what I should do. Ive read up on how to get it started with the de-flooding procedure then if that doesnt work pulling the plugs and disconnecting the crank sensor. Then comes the issue of him possibly not burning off the built up carbon regularly. How much damage does that do to the engine and would the car even be worth buying then.
Old 08-27-2015, 02:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Quiggs321
I'm looking into getting a UK spec 2004 RX-8 with 60k miles for pretty cheap, $1500, and the guy is saying it needs Apex Seals. Once I actually started talking to him he said that the car stalled out on him and he could smell gas, so he thinks it might just be flooded. He drives it 5 minutes to work and back and it stalled out on him between there and had to have it towed to his house. He hasn't driven it since it stalled out and he hasn't been able to start it. To me it sounds like its just flooded. If it was the Apex seals then he should at least be able to get it started momentarily but with possibly a rough idle and low compression. I'm sure it depends on how bad the seals actually are.


He said he's tried the de-flooding procedure but with no success. If it is just flooded then the car would be a steal, and even if I have to rebuild the engine then I still would make out pretty good depending on how much damage there is to the internals and how much I actually have to replace.


I'm curious if anyone has any advice on what it could be, if not the Apex seals, or what I should do. Ive read up on how to get it started with the de-flooding procedure then if that doesnt work pulling the plugs and disconnecting the crank sensor. Then comes the issue of him possibly not burning off the built up carbon regularly. How much damage does that do to the engine and would the car even be worth buying then.
Welcome to the club. I'd start with required reading, located here.

I'm sure others will chime in, but this 8 could have a number of issues, in addition to flooding. Ignition coils, spark plugs, plug wires, etc, are just a few of the common ones. Odds are, at 60k miles, the plugs and ignition haven't been touched, so you may in fact have a steal.

As far as verifying engine (and by extension, apex seal) health, that would require a compression test.
Old 09-03-2015, 04:28 PM
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https://www.rx8club.com/new-member-f...t-here-202454/

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tro...t-here-222584/

Starting the Engine
• Starter
• Battery
• Engine Compression
• Grounding Wires
• Ignition Coils
• Spark Plugs
• Spark Plug Wires
• Fuel Pump
• Fuel Injectors

RX8 Club’s recommended maintenance schedule, more comprehensive and proactive than Mazda’s schedule.
30,000 miles:
- Replace Ignition coils
- Replace Plug wires
- Replace Spark plugs
- Clean MAF (mass air flow sensor)
- Clean ESS (e-shaft sensor)
- Reset ESS profile
- Clean power steering connections
- Clean battery terminals and clamps
- Replace transmission fluid
- Replace coolant (Mazda FL-22 is highly recommended)
- Replace air filter
- Replace brake fluid (fluid in the brake lines AND the clutch line)
~$300 USD in parts if you shop smartly.


every 60,000:
...all 30,000, plus...
- Clean all chassis electrical grounding points
- Replace accessory belts
- Clean OMP lines
- Replace rear differential fluid
- Replace thermostat
- Clean / Straighten AC condenser fins
- Clean / Straighten oil cooler fins
- Inspect catalytic converter
- Clean / Inspect intake valving
- Consider / inspect all points in 90,000+ as well, many items fail early
~$130 USD in parts if you shop smartly.

90,000:
...all 30,000, plus any 60,000 not yet done, plus...
- Replace coolant bottle
- Replace radiator hoses
- Replace radiator
- Replace front O2 sensor
- Replace motor mounts
- Inspect clutch pedal assembly for flex / weld breaks
~$900 USD in parts if you shop smartly.
At 100k, anything original in the cooling system is really suspect and failure prone. It represents the biggest threat to your engine.
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