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First and foremost i would like to thank any of you that can help me in advance and would also like to thank the creators of this forum for all of us RX8 owners.
To start this off the car is an '04 RX8 with 55k miles on it,6 SPD manual, bought used.
When i got it the car was running fine but did vibrate and shake quite alot when i start it and when it hits the 1000RPM. That was all i had to complain about and i could deal with it no problem.
Now i have a couple? more problems showing up and it all started of after a flashing CEL light that came on and lasting for 5-10 seconds. I also got a smell of something burning in that process but the smell lasted maybe 5-10 seconds after the CEL and both never came back afterwards even trough a 3 hour trip yesterday.
The thing is, after that moment the car started to act like ****. Starts kinda well cold, accelerates and has all of its power until maybe 15-20 minutes into the drive and the more time i drive the worst it gets. I talked about the 3 hour drive i took ... the ride was scary as hell. Was afraid the car would die on me but to my surprise it did not. It had so low power i would say that i felt like i was driving a geo metro. Took around10 seconds to go from 1st gear to second with the pedal to the floor. Uphill driving was a battle to not stall it or having it going backwards. After that drive i parked it, went back and tried it 4 hours later and BAM it worked like a charm, for another 20-30 minutes then went back to lose power but not as bad as that 3 hour drive.
Also at 4500-5500 RPM i can hear a rattle/ping (metal on metal) type of noise, sometimes it last well over the 5500RPM i said but most of the time it stops at 5500RPM but only when hot. (Sound in the hot start video, time in the description)
Today i went and changed the 4 coils and i can tell you they were due.
Changed 2 T sparks plugs that were also bad (tested them and the spark was so low that i could barely see it).
This might be important but when trying to start the car while testing the plugs, it would take a couple of turns before any sparks would appear and that was one the new ones also.
Got an new battery and it seems as though my horn and alarm sound is getting weaker by the day (after 2 days, can you imagine.)
Oil was in my air filter (will change it tomorrow the store was closed this afternoon) so i ran the car without an air filter and it did seem to help a bit with the idle vibration.
After all this, it still does the same things and i am kind of wondering what else it could be at this point.
Hope the videos help a bit, sorry for my english as i do not use it fluently.
The description of the issue is all over the place. So you changed the coils and only the trailing plugs? Did that make it any better? did you at least clean the leading plugs? (Soft bristle toothbrush and some gasoline)
Does it still have the catalytic converter installed?
Why didn't you change the other plugs?
Wires?
Maf sensor cleaned since the filter was covered in oil!?
Throttle body cleaned since the intake was sucking in oil!?
SSV valve? Moves freely?
I'd take a look at some of the treads of common issues and tackle the list of them.
Was the weak sparking new plugs before or after the new coils?
Did you test the alternator with a fluke?
Why'd you replace the battery?
The description of the issue is all over the place. So you changed the coils and only the trailing plugs? Did that make it any better? did you at least clean the leading plugs? (Soft bristle toothbrush and some gasoline)
Does it still have the catalytic converter installed?
Why didn't you change the other plugs?
Wires?
Maf sensor cleaned since the filter was covered in oil!?
Throttle body cleaned since the intake was sucking in oil!?
SSV valve? Moves freely?
I'd take a look at some of the treads of common issues and tackle the list of them.
Was the weak sparking new plugs before or after the new coils?
Did you test the alternator with a fluke?
Why'd you replace the battery?
The other plugs are ordered but will not get them until monday and will change them at that time. They did not have them in stock when i got the L plugs.
It still has the cat on and will inspect that at the same time i change the L plugs. The center console does get really hot but not at the point i can not tolerate it and the cat does not become bright red (if it was bad wouldnt it glow red ?)
MAF was cleaned and once it was cleaned and i removed the air filter simply to see the difference due to oil restricting air flow it did idle alot better but still not perfect and a bit rough.
I did clean the trottle body
SSV valve i did not check as i did not think it could cause a lack of power after a 20-30 minute drive. I tought it would affect it cold or hot.
The weak spark was before AND after the new coils. The sparks did seem to be a bit better after the new coils but if i compare to a video on youtube of an RX8 owner testing his plugs well mine seem alot weaker.
Alternator was not tested as i also did not think it would cause anything only after a 20-30 minute drive, i tought it would cause a loss of power cold or hot.
When i bought the car the battery was dead and bought a new one. But it seems to me that it is now starting to get weaker already simply by listening to the sound of the horn when arming the alarm. It is alot less loud than before.
IF you look at the second video and go on youtube website i wrote in the description a sound that is made when my RPM is @ 4500 til 5500 and you can hear it in the video. What could that sound be and i can not pinpoint where exactly it seems to be but it is pretty loud and only started after my flashing CEL and burning smell on the highway. Before that it never happened.
As to if it did make it any better i can only say removing the air filter helped with the idle a bit so air flow was restricted because of the oil. IT still was not very good though. The videos are taken after the new plugs and coil so it did not really help ...
The other plugs are ordered but will not get them until monday and will change them at that time. They did not have them in stock when i got the L plugs.
It still has the cat on and will inspect that at the same time i change the L plugs. The center console does get really hot but not at the point i can not tolerate it and the cat does not become bright red (if it was bad wouldnt it glow red ?)
MAF was cleaned and once it was cleaned and i removed the air filter simply to see the difference due to oil restricting air flow it did idle alot better but still not perfect and a bit rough.
I did clean the trottle body
SSV valve i did not check as i did not think it could cause a lack of power after a 20-30 minute drive. I tought it would affect it cold or hot.
The weak spark was before AND after the new coils. The sparks did seem to be a bit better after the new coils but if i compare to a video on youtube of an RX8 owner testing his plugs well mine seem alot weaker.
Alternator was not tested as i also did not think it would cause anything only after a 20-30 minute drive, i tought it would cause a loss of power cold or hot.
When i bought the car the battery was dead and bought a new one. But it seems to me that it is now starting to get weaker already simply by listening to the sound of the horn when arming the alarm. It is alot less loud than before.
IF you look at the second video and go on youtube website i wrote in the description a sound that is made when my RPM is @ 4500 til 5500 and you can hear it in the video. What could that sound be and i can not pinpoint where exactly it seems to be but it is pretty loud and only started after my flashing CEL and burning smell on the highway. Before that it never happened.
As to if it did make it any better i can only say removing the air filter helped with the idle a bit so air flow was restricted because of the oil. IT still was not very good though. The videos are taken after the new plugs and coil so it did not really help ...
Thanks !
The cat has a heat shield on it. So it may not be visibly red and may not even turn red. My center console never gets hot that I notice, and I had a bad cat at one point. Worth investigating.
Get the other plugs installed.
Wires?
Go get alternator tested, if your battery is getting weaker its most likely not getting a proper charge. If you have a weak alternator it could cause the fuel pump to not distribute the correct amount of fuel.
SSV might not be fully gunked up and that could possibly be the reason issues are intermittent.
Flashing cel means misfire. If you misfire excess fuel is being thrown out the exhaust mixed with your oil and spitting all over your hot cat. Might explain the smell.
The cat has a heat shield on it. So it may not be visibly red and may not even turn red. My center console never gets hot that I notice, and I had a bad cat at one point. Worth investigating.
Get the other plugs installed.
Wires?
Go get alternator tested, if your battery is getting weaker its most likely not getting a proper charge. If you have a weak alternator it could cause the fuel pump to not distribute the correct amount of fuel.
SSV might not be fully gunked up and that could possibly be the reason issues are intermittent.
Flashing cel means misfire. If you misfire excess fuel is being thrown out the exhaust mixed with your oil and spitting all over your hot cat. Might explain the smell.
Thanks for the help, will investigate the Cat first thing in the morning. If it is clogged or whatever is it possible to simply breake apart the center of it and run it like that without any problems !? Since you are saying the center console does not get hot at least not alot that might be the problem i guess. As an example, i can not place a cold drink there for more than 10 minutes without it getting hot so those cup holder are worthless in the way it heats up right now plus the air that comes out of the heater is so hot i can not run the car without my windows open or else i will sweat my *** off and bake in there.
Plugs will be changed as soon as i get them, as for the wires well i do not think i need to change them due to how i tested them. Well it was just me putting my fingers in the wires and checking to see if i was able to hold them while cranking. Could not but i guess due to it being such a amateur test i guess changing them might benefit lol
How do i test the alternator ? I have access to all the tools needed for almost anything because a family member owns a garage.
And I couldn't hear the noise in the video on my phone, but when my coils we're going I would get a loud unexplained ticking at high rpm matched with hesitation. So I think that might get fixed with the new leading plugs given your wires are fine. I still think you should take the cat off and inspect.
And I couldn't hear the noise in the video on my phone, but when my coils we're going I would get a loud unexplained ticking at high rpm matched with hesitation. So I think that might get fixed with the new leading plugs given your wires are fine. I still think you should take the cat off and inspect.
Yes, Sound is not really loud because i recorded with my phone but on my PC with the sound turned up i def can hear it but it does not sound as bad as in the car itself. To be honest when it happens i feel like ducking my head down of shame lol
Will do the CAT and will report back when done with pictures !
Thanks for the help, will investigate the Cat first thing in the morning. If it is clogged or whatever is it possible to simply breake apart the center of it and run it like that without any problems !? Since you are saying the center console does not get hot at least not alot that might be the problem i guess. As an example, i can not place a cold drink there for more than 10 minutes without it getting hot so those cup holder are worthless in the way it heats up right now plus the air that comes out of the heater is so hot i can not run the car without my windows open or else i will sweat my *** off and bake in there.
Plugs will be changed as soon as i get them, as for the wires well i do not think i need to change them due to how i tested them. Well it was just me putting my fingers in the wires and checking to see if i was able to hold them while cranking. Could not but i guess due to it being such a amateur test i guess changing them might benefit lol
How do i test the alternator ? I have access to all the tools needed for almost anything because a family member owns a garage.
Last thing, for the SSV any DIY guide ?
Thank you !
Yes you can gut the cat just make sure you remove it all.
Change the wires it's like 30 bucks. It's a check in the box.
Get a fluke and test the volts coming off the alternator. Put the black lead on the negative terminal on the battery and the red lead on the terminal on the alternator under the plastic clip.
I'll find the diy for the SSV and post the link there's a video on YouTube also.
Alright well i am not sure how to explain this but here it goes ...
About 30 minutes ago i was going 90KM/h and a stupid girl texting in front of me pressed on the brakes suddenly and i had to brake suddenly also, seconds later oil light came on ... problem is i had checked the oil level before start and was at 1/2 - 3/4 .... Stopped, put in oil and went back on the road to get home.
When i arrived home i started smelling something burning, not quite sure what though.
Popped the hood and smoke was coming out of under the air box (not alot just a tiny bit) ... removed the airbox and smoke was disappearing but still a bit visible from under the plastic cover you place the airbox in with the bad smell.
Today i did clean the MAF sensor again because some oil was on it, worked well and seemed to lose less power but still lost a bit as to not be able to floor it and drift a bit. Idle is a lot better but still a bit rough.
Added coolant because the car was low on it and i added just a bit more that full, could it have been coolant that dripped on anything under the airbox that caused that smoke and smell !?
What could have cause the oil to go low that suddenly after sudden braking and also what could cause that smoke and smell.
Alright well i am not sure how to explain this but here it goes ...
About 30 minutes ago i was going 90KM/h and a stupid girl texting in front of me pressed on the brakes suddenly and i had to brake suddenly also, seconds later oil light came on ... problem is i had checked the oil level before start and was at 1/2 - 3/4 .... Stopped, put in oil and went back on the road to get home.
When i arrived home i started smelling something burning, not quite sure what though.
Popped the hood and smoke was coming out of under the air box (not alot just a tiny bit) ... removed the airbox and smoke was disappearing but still a bit visible from under the plastic cover you place the airbox in with the bad smell.
Today i did clean the MAF sensor again because some oil was on it, worked well and seemed to lose less power but still lost a bit as to not be able to floor it and drift a bit. Idle is a lot better but still a bit rough.
Added coolant because the car was low on it and i added just a bit more that full, could it have been coolant that dripped on anything under the airbox that caused that smoke and smell !?
What could have cause the oil to go low that suddenly after sudden braking and also what could cause that smoke and smell.
Our cars only hold just shy of 4 quarts. So if it's half full then you're 2 quarts shy, if you're 3/4 full you are 1 quart shy. Either levels will trigger a low oil light. Are you using a long tube oil filler when you top off!?
The sudden stop could have jerked an old coolant hose and could be causing some issues. Go follow all your coolant hoses with car on inspect for leaks.
Your radiator is under your air box. Inspect that also.
Opened it up. Looked at the fan and a rubber bushing of some sort was blocking it. Now both fan are not even turning at all and engine heats up. Should the coolant lower when the car is running because for me it does even seen to move at all ...
Update : Fuse went bad, changed it and now it works again. Well as far as the sound goes it sounds the same when the fan turns BUT only one of them is turning so my question is ;
If only was fan was working could it be possible the Power loss, hard hot start, etc ... was related to the fan not working and not cooling the engine enough. I know for a fact the engine never over heated when only one fan was working BUT could it have made the engine, CPU and other stuff act weird !?
EDIT : Just saw somewhere that both fan do not turn on at the same time unless TEMP keeps rising so i guess that fan not working would not affect anything but the TEMP.
The question is, if the TEMP did not go high during the drive then why did it try to turn and blow the fuse this time around .... Not sure as of what to think.
Was it working or not before it blew the fuse ...im lost in all of this lol
Wedged in the radiator fan, blew the fuse and bad smell of something burning, guess that was the motor !
Not true. Cars with 2 oil coolers hold about 7.5 quarts. The average oil change results in about 4.5 quarts being replaced.
Originally Posted by Galchy27
Wedged in the radiator fan, blew the fuse and bad smell of something burning, guess that was the motor !
That bushing holds the airbox to its tray. There should be 2 of them. To keep mine from pushing through like that, I rub a little Sil-Glyde on the inside, where the airbox pins contact it.
Not true. Cars with 2 oil coolers hold about 7.5 quarts. The average oil change results in about 4.5 quarts being replaced.
That bushing holds the airbox to its tray. There should be 2 of them. To keep mine from pushing through like that, I rub a little Sil-Glyde on the inside, where the airbox pins contact it.
When I first got it I took it to the dealer for first oil change and a look over. They said 3.7 😒 I always just put in 4 and alreays reads full.
Understand there will be some left over in the coolers and lines.
Update : Fuse went bad, changed it and now it works again. Well as far as the sound goes it sounds the same when the fan turns BUT only one of them is turning so my question is ;
If only was fan was working could it be possible the Power loss, hard hot start, etc ... was related to the fan not working and not cooling the engine enough. I know for a fact the engine never over heated when only one fan was working BUT could it have made the engine, CPU and other stuff act weird !?
EDIT : Just saw somewhere that both fan do not turn on at the same time unless TEMP keeps rising so i guess that fan not working would not affect anything but the TEMP.
The question is, if the TEMP did not go high during the drive then why did it try to turn and blow the fuse this time around .... Not sure as of what to think.
Was it working or not before it blew the fuse ...im lost in all of this lol
Wedged in the radiator fan, blew the fuse and bad smell of something burning, guess that was the motor !
Not sure about all that. Not really an electrical guy. I would assume no. It would be isolated. Really doubt it would cause misfires like you are experiencing.
Not sure about all that. Not really an electrical guy. I would assume no. It would be isolated. Really doubt it would cause misfires like you are experiencing.
Ok, well for the misfire i really mean this, it never never never came back and yes i rev it up there to 8500-9000k
Will be getting a fuse or two for the fan but also be looking for a new motor fan because it blew another fuse after that one.
Got into limp mode earlier tonight ... tought the engine was gone but nope it turned out i put the fuel cap not tight enough. Car ran perfect even though no fans are working for the 2km to bring it from the place it was to my home. (colder weather) Started so well i was like WTF !?!? But it started that well only in Limp mode, again WTF !?
I am looking for a motor right now and if i can not find one i will just buy an entire assembly.
As a temp fix i "think" i have found a simple solution to at least get to work and earn the money to get this bad boy back in shape.
I replaced the fuse, jumped the Fan #1 relay and only one fan was working so i removed fan 2 relay, put back in fan 1 relay and started it up. Reved up to 8k couple of times and let it idle for 15-10 minutes, fan came on (the good one) and never blew the fuse and no over heating.
As a temp fix for simply a couple of KM's until i get the new motor or assembly can this do any wrong !?
07-04-2015, 07:46 PM
Used Rx8 need help to diagnose.
