tuckgray907

I just finished rebuilding my engine but I can't get it to start. If anyone has any suggestions I would Love to try it. It has spark and fuel. The compression is at 60 psi according to a rental compression tester from auto zone. I worked on it for a few days but couldnt get it to start. The compression went up to 70 after a few days of messing with it. I put different coils in and tested the spark. They all spark really well from the coil but the trailing plugs are weak through the wire. I might try to replace those if it could be the problem. I just put new plugs in it and it still didnt fix the problem. It cranks but wont actually start.

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

Sounds like a bad rebuild with those numbers. You can try push starting it and driving it around an hope compression builds. Home build FTW.

Jedi54

iTrader: (7)

60 psi?
Sounds like the rebuild was unsuccessful. Pull start it and see if you can get it running and if compression builds up.
If not, another rebuild in your near future I see.

ZiG

Meh, mine started the same way, after a push start and some driving it built compression and woke up. Been great ever since.

Ber1n

You should double check and make sure everything is connected properly. Put some oil into the intake via the nipples near the intake manifold or by taking the plastic intake section with the throttle body attached. If possible drive it for 5 to 6 miles, but again make sure everything is connected or there could be a disaster, so that you have an easier time starting the engine next time.

tuckgray907

I cant pull start the car its an automatic. I can try the oil thing. So when you say put the oil in through the manifold you mean take the throttle body off and squirt it in through the plastic manifold. correct?

tuckgray907

Is there any way I can get the atf pump to run enough to fill the torque converter so that I might be able to pull start it with another car? I am pretty sure there is none left in it after pulling the motor out.

ZiG

Yikes. Not sure I have anything intelligent to add but my stupid idea would be to look into whether you can lock the tcc solenoid manually? Though like I say, that could be a bad idea and who knows what else the trans needs pressure to do (eg shift into 1st). Is the starter new? If you can get it to fire and immediately put it in gear and drive it, I suppose that could work?

iCre8

I'm new to the Rotary club and Engine.
Bought an RX8 @ a steal price but it needs an engine.
I'm looking at buying a new engine but wanted to know what else I should consider after dropping the new engine in.

What other parts should i consider outside the clutch?

Thanks!

tuckgray907

is there any way i can get the engine to crank faster just so i can get it to start?

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

Start your own thread, after you read all of the sticky threads. Don't be lazy.

cheesebox

I believe if you ran higher voltage to the starter like hooking the starter wires up to a 18v or 24v dc power source you could get it to spin faster (my knowledge comes from dc machinery motors though and not a starter motor specifically so take it as you will). It will almost certainly fry it long term but I have definitely heard of 6v guys running their original 6v starters after converting to 12v so it shouldn't explode not guaranteeing anything though. Also be careful to isolate the starter system and the ground so you don't accidentally run 18 or 24v to any of the other electronics in the car that would be catastrophic.

tuckgray907

okay

CelestialGryphon

iTrader: (1)

I like this cheesebox guy. His statements remind me of **** we used to do when we were growing up. "Well, if we add this much power we can get it to spin this faster."

tuckgray907

So I've been trying for a little while and I've gotten it pretty close to starting. I did wd40 into the nipples and that seemed to help. I got it to where it would fire enough to take the load off of the starter but not actually start. I would really appreciate it if someone could help me come up with a list of things to check because I don't even know where to start now. There were two codes in the engine after trying to start it for about 5 hours. One was the p0335 code and a tcm disconnect error. I checked the ess and cleaned it but still no luck. I tried the 20 pump on the brake pedal after cleaning it too but still nothing. I cleared the codes and the codes haven't shown back up yet but I think they might after trying to crank it more. But one thing that I did find interesting is that the engine would actually crank with the ess unplugged completely. Maybe that is something but I'm not sure. I didn't check the sensor itsself. I don't have a spare sensor to try but I have heard of people testing the resistance of the sensor which I would only assume tells you if it's good or not.

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

Yes it will crank with the ESS unplugged, you have to do that when doing a compression test.

Try using atf or 2 stroke oil instead of WD40.

tuckgray907

Oh and i got an update on the compression numbers. I had my friend run it with a real compression tester.

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

Fail boat city. This is why I don't recommend people rebuild these without a lot of experience.

tuckgray907

It was my only option. I couldn't pay to have it fixed

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

Well, now you wasted whatever money you spent. Not to mention the time. I can't even count the amount of home rebuilds I have seen that haven't started afterwards.

autotechwilliam

Is ur starter slow also wd40? Have u tried spraying carb cleaner in throttle body to see if it's a fuel issue?

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

It's low compression, even with the numbers normalized to 250RPM. A proper rebuild should be in the 115-120psi range. 67psi is very low. But you're an autotech, you should know that.....

Mazmart

iTrader: (12)

This thread (And many prior to it), is providing me the drive to write a piece on what is acceptable in a fresh rebuilt engine, for the Rotary community has lost it's way
People have grown accustomed to the idea that initial difficulty is okay, and it's not. The 'new' engine should behave like new with quick, easy starting, no pulling required, no extra oil through nipples (Although that is not a bad thing).

My rant is over for now. I will soon do my full rant

Paul.

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

^ This. The idea that it is normal or okay for a rebuilt engine to need coaxing to start right away and run properly is just annoying. It should fire up and make good compression from the get go. If it doesn't it's a half *** rebuild.

doneb40

Take it apart and do you it again. Run the compression test before you install. Experience is short-hand for "I made that mistake too".