Paul_Y

Hello,

I just purchased a 2004 Titanium Grey RX-8 GT from an aquaintance that owned it for the last 70 of its 90,000 mile life. It has excellent maintenance records and is in pretty solid shape.

This site was really valuable in researching these cars and I look forward to cleaning it up and putting it in top shape.

One issue I'm having is when I have one or two passengers in the rear it bottoms out hard on even the slightest of bumps. From what I have read it sounds like a blown rear shock and potential worn out spring. I'd like to maintain the stock ride quality but upgrade the shocks at the same time. Looking at maybe the bilstein b6 or Koni yellow with stock springs but I'm open to suggestions.

Anyways, so far I love the way it drives and I think I'm hooked on that rotary howl.

RX8mzda

iTrader: (1)

Welcome & enjoy the car!

Paul_Y

Pictures for reference.

gwilliams6

Did you get a rotary engine-specific compression test before your purchase?

How it feels to you is no real indicator of the health of that eleven-year old engine with 90K miles. A replacement engine would cost you more probably than what you paid for the car.

To really know where to start with any RX8 maintenance beyond your obvious shock problem, first get that compression test done on the engine and then check the car's maintenance records against the RX8 clubs recommended maintenance schedule. And welcome !

https://www.rx8club.com/new-member-f...t-here-202454/

RX8 Club’s recommended maintenance schedule, more comprehensive and proactive than Mazda’s schedule.
30,000 miles:
- Replace Ignition coils
- Replace Plug wires
- Replace Spark plugs
- Clean MAF (mass air flow sensor)
- Clean ESS (e-shaft sensor)
- Reset ESS profile
- Clean power steering connections
- Clean battery terminals and clamps
- Replace transmission fluid
- Replace coolant (Mazda FL-22 is highly recommended)
- Replace air filter
- Replace brake fluid (fluid in the brake lines AND the clutch line)
~$300 USD in parts if you shop smartly.


every 60,000:
...all 30,000, plus...
- Clean all chassis electrical grounding points
- Replace accessory belts
- Clean OMP lines
- Replace rear differential fluid
- Replace thermostat
- Clean / Straighten AC condenser fins
- Clean / Straighten oil cooler fins
- Inspect catalytic converter
- Clean / Inspect intake valving
- Consider / inspect all points in 90,000+ as well, many items fail early
~$130 USD in parts if you shop smartly.

90,000:
...all 30,000, plus any 60,000 not yet done, plus...
- Replace coolant bottle
- Replace radiator hoses
- Replace radiator
- Replace front O2 sensor
- Replace motor mounts
- Inspect clutch pedal assembly for flex / weld breaks
~$900 USD in parts if you shop smartly.
At 100k, anything original in the cooling system is really suspect and failure prone. It represents the biggest threat to your engine.
__________________

RX8mzda

iTrader: (1)

Paul_Y

Thanks for all of the advice gwilliams6, this car has about 90% of the items on your list done and I'll be doing the last 10% in the next week or so. I called the local Mazda dealer for a quote on a compression check but they haven't gotten back to me yet. I'm in the LA area if anyone knows of a good rotary shop.

One question, how should I be inspecting the catalytic converter and what should I look for?

For reference I'm an automotive engineer in the piston world and know my way around a car with a wrench.

Paul_Y

After searching the forum I've decided on replacing my rears with a set of bilstein b6 shocks. Does anyone have any recommendations on the best place to buy them? So far tire rack is looking like the best deal.

Nisaja

Welcome to the club bro. Congratulations on your purchase! Clean car! Looking really nice.

The rear bottoming out means the shocks are blown. There have been people that have replaced only the springs and it didn't fix the issue. Replacing the shocks is the only way. If I were you I'd get the stock shocks. Or, why not do coil overs on all 4? Tein S techs maybe?

To see if the cat is clocked, the easiest way is to take it out for a fairly hard drive and see if the cat is glowing. Most cars have a cover that protects the cat. So you'll have to look at the O2 sensor area on the left side of the cat. The cat is visible around the sensor.

Another way is to plug in a Bluetooth OBD2 scanner ($10 on eBay), pair it with your android phone and check the cat temps. I would suggest you get an OBD2 scanner even if you don't want to check the cat temps. It's a useful device. It can even clear CEL codes

Good luck, keep us updated and congrats again on your purchase

milos87popovic

Welcome

Paul_Y

Thanks for the advice Nisaja, I plan to order a set of the rear bilsteins soon. Also I think I have an older android phone that still works and would make for a good obd2 reader/logger as there doesn't seem to be as good of options for the iPhone.

Nisaja

Anytime! You can get a wifi OBD2 adapter to work with an iPhone. I have an iPhone too and I used an old Android phone that was lying around lol.

projectr13b

Very nice. looks super clean

Paul_Y

Thanks man, it was actually pretty dirty in that pic. I finally got some time today to wash, clay bar and wax it and the colour came out really well. The roof is still a bit dull so I'd like to look into a polish or something to bring back the shine.

Nisaja

Wet sand it. You can do it yourself. Check YouTube DIY videos

Paul_Y

So my car only came with one key and a dead remote. After reading up on the forum I'd like to get the switch blade key-remote combo. I know I need to have the dealer program the second key since I only have one but I can do the remote programming from home (tried it to see if current remote would work).

What I would like feedback on is if this eBay key is what people typically buy or if they buy them new from the dealer. I just don't want to waste $40 on something that won't last a month if someone has had experience with it.

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item...obalID=EBAY-US

Any feedback would be appreciated.

Thanks.

BigCajun

iTrader: (1)

I got mine from the Remote Superstore online probably about a year ago. About $80 iIrc.
No problems, I just replaced the battery in it.

Paul_Y

I saw those and that's probably my best bet next to the dealer. I was just wondering if anyone had any luck with the $40 eBay one.

BigCajun

iTrader: (1)

Personally, I wouldn't buy anything from eBay.
Honestly, if you're sweating $40, you bought the wrong car.

Paul_Y

Ha, I'm not sweating the $40, I just came across it and was wondering if it was legit. Before I even bought this car I came to terms with the very real possibility that it might need an engine at some point and I fully expect to put some money in to fix it up.

Seems like some people have some good experience with that remote superstore and it claims to be an original Visteon part. Unless anyone has another suggestion I think I'll place my order with them.

Also as a side note, my Bilstein rear shocks arrived and I plan to install them on Sunday. Hopefully this solves my rear suspension woes and I can start taking it up canyon roads.

Paul_Y

Just an update:

I replaced my rear shocks today with a pair of Bilstein B6s and it completely solved my rear suspension issues. When I pulled the old ones out the bump stops were completely gone, literally only one ring left in the metal cup.

I had an idle issue where it would stall when ever I was off the throttle with the clutch in or in neutral. This was due to a bad idle learn after I reconnected the battery. After searching around I found a few posts that helped guide me. I ended up holding idle manually around 700rpm. After one stall the second time it fired up I got it between 500-700 then it took over and held 800rpm without issues.

gwilliams6

Good fix on the shocks and idle !

Keeping the Engine at an Idle
• Ignition Coils
• Spark Plugs
• Spark Plug Wires
• Engine Compression
• E-Shaft Sensor (ESS)
• Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAF)
• Front O2 sensor
• Catalytic Converter (Cat)
• Intake Vaccum

Paul_Y

Thanks for the list. It's still having some issues coming down from speed and catching idle but i think that might be the fuel trim and idle still learning. I have no codes, ignition system was done 15,000miles ago, maf was cleaned a week ago with no noticeable change, I've been planning on checking the ess out for cleaning soon. Going in for a smog check today then if all is well I'll be ordering the high flow cat / mid pipe from rx7store as I think my cat might not be as free as it should be plus it should eliminate another failure point.