New from Canada
09-19-2014, 04:56 PM
#26
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I've bought MT90 from both NAPA and CarQuest in the past, no issues. They had to order it in, but it's not like I had to go hunting for it. Does the clutch pedal squeak at all when you step on it? Don't remember it being brought up in this thread, but the mounting brackets do tend to fail on them. You may not be getting all of the clutch action you need if that's all starting to fail.
09-19-2014, 06:27 PM
#27
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I wouldn't say it's squeaky but the first 3 inches or so of the clutch is very loose and takes no effort at all the push down. Also feels like the clutch releases very high
09-19-2014, 08:19 PM
#28
40th anniversary Edition
In Oct. 2010 Mazda extended the warranty on the clutch pedal assembly for all 2004-2009 RX8s. The warranty was extended to 8yrs/100,000 miles . You may have a clutch pedal assembly starting to fail and you may still be covered depending on the original sale date of your 2006 RX8. If you are still under warranty get the dealer to fix this right away.
Last edited by gwilliams6; 09-19-2014 at 08:22 PM.
09-19-2014, 09:29 PM
#29
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In Oct. 2010 Mazda extended the warranty on the clutch pedal assembly for all 2004-2009 RX8s. The warranty was extended to 8yrs/100,000 miles . You may have a clutch pedal assembly starting to fail and you may still be covered depending on the original sale date of your 2006 RX8. If you are still under warranty get the dealer to fix this right away.
09-20-2014, 04:54 PM
#31
+1
Don't think buying a new clutch will change this. You need a new clutch when your current clutch doesn't engage enough. Sounds like you have one that doesn't disengage enough, so to speak.
Did you say the clutch pushrod is showing signs of leaking? That's pretty unusual, but it would certainly mean your hydraulics are compromised. Let's do one thing at a time: check that the pedal mount is not cracked/loose/broken. Then bleed the master and slave cylinders. Then see if you can adjust the pedal up for more travel before the friction point. Try this also: find a level spot where the car won't roll in neutral, put it in first but do not clutch out. See if the car moves a little. Repeat for gears 2-4 and see if the rpms drop when you engage a gear. If so, that's another sign you're not disengaging fully and need to focus on the hydraulics.
Don't think buying a new clutch will change this. You need a new clutch when your current clutch doesn't engage enough. Sounds like you have one that doesn't disengage enough, so to speak.
Did you say the clutch pushrod is showing signs of leaking? That's pretty unusual, but it would certainly mean your hydraulics are compromised. Let's do one thing at a time: check that the pedal mount is not cracked/loose/broken. Then bleed the master and slave cylinders. Then see if you can adjust the pedal up for more travel before the friction point. Try this also: find a level spot where the car won't roll in neutral, put it in first but do not clutch out. See if the car moves a little. Repeat for gears 2-4 and see if the rpms drop when you engage a gear. If so, that's another sign you're not disengaging fully and need to focus on the hydraulics.
09-20-2014, 06:45 PM
#32
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+1
Don't think buying a new clutch will change this. You need a new clutch when your current clutch doesn't engage enough. Sounds like you have one that doesn't disengage enough, so to speak.
Did you say the clutch pushrod is showing signs of leaking? That's pretty unusual, but it would certainly mean your hydraulics are compromised. Let's do one thing at a time: check that the pedal mount is not cracked/loose/broken. Then bleed the master and slave cylinders. Then see if you can adjust the pedal up for more travel before the friction point. Try this also: find a level spot where the car won't roll in neutral, put it in first but do not clutch out. See if the car moves a little. Repeat for gears 2-4 and see if the rpms drop when you engage a gear. If so, that's another sign you're not disengaging fully and need to focus on the hydraulics.
Don't think buying a new clutch will change this. You need a new clutch when your current clutch doesn't engage enough. Sounds like you have one that doesn't disengage enough, so to speak.
Did you say the clutch pushrod is showing signs of leaking? That's pretty unusual, but it would certainly mean your hydraulics are compromised. Let's do one thing at a time: check that the pedal mount is not cracked/loose/broken. Then bleed the master and slave cylinders. Then see if you can adjust the pedal up for more travel before the friction point. Try this also: find a level spot where the car won't roll in neutral, put it in first but do not clutch out. See if the car moves a little. Repeat for gears 2-4 and see if the rpms drop when you engage a gear. If so, that's another sign you're not disengaging fully and need to focus on the hydraulics.
09-23-2014, 04:16 PM
#33
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Update: finally transferred ownership over and got the car on the road today . I noticed though it feels like there is a load when clutch pedal is depressed. When I press clutch pedal down at idle it's nice and smooth but when I disengage pedal it feels like there's a load and revs die down a little. Also my clutch pedal is very squeaky
09-23-2014, 06:01 PM
#35
There is a normal noise at idle, some people mistake it for throw-out bearing. It sounds like a very light rattle. Like very small ball bearings slowly going around.
Mine squeaks sometimes too in humid/cold weather. So those things by themselves aren't super suspicious, but keep diagnosing.
Mine squeaks sometimes too in humid/cold weather. So those things by themselves aren't super suspicious, but keep diagnosing.
09-25-2014, 11:13 AM
#36
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Hey I just got my RX8 two days ago from Toronto too. Are you planning on driving in winter?
09-25-2014, 11:24 AM
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09-25-2014, 02:54 PM
#38
Life After 8K RPM....
Just get decent snow tires, add some weight in the trunk when it snows and you'll be good.
We don't have enough torque so none to worry about in snow driving, just dont go crazzy on the acceleration lol..
We don't have enough torque so none to worry about in snow driving, just dont go crazzy on the acceleration lol..
09-26-2014, 11:06 AM
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Another update, car no longer grinds at high rpms when shifting from 1-2, the red line is definitely helping. Clutch pedal feels good and everything feels right, car does have a whine from the transmission in second gear, kinda sounds like its supercharged lol but doesn't really bother me. Car will also clunk into first from neutral at a stop light if i put the clutch in and immediatly put it into first but it is very minor and doesn't do it if the clutch is held down for more then a few seconds. Gonna clean the MAF this weekend, might still end up putting a new clutch in it after winter anyways. I have an amazing local shop around the corner from me that said if I bring the parts in they will change the clutch for 250 bucks and thats canadian lol.
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