I Bought an 8 without a compression test.. come flame me.
08-14-2015, 08:06 AM
#1
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I Bought an 8 without a compression test.. come flame me.
So I committed the cardinal sin. I bought a 2007 RX8 GT with 73k miles on it without a pre-buy compression test. 
I'm looking for a gauge on the risk I'm in based on these factors:
-The car is on its third motor, the most recent one was replaced about 5500 miles ago.
-The car has never run premix, until now. I've started based on the recommended oils in the premix superthread. Mix ratio is ~220-240:1.
-Clutch, trans, diff, etc. are original. How long does the clutch tend to last? My turbo'd Honda Fit (yes, you read that right) went 120k on the original with no sign of letting up, but my last WRX only made it 65k before it was toast. Where does the 8 fall on the spectrum?
-I'm assuming (should I?) that the coolant, spark plugs, sensors, OMP, etc. were either new or inspected and OK when the motor was replaced. The accessory belts definitely were, based on the receipts.
-Brake pads are new, but the rotors could stand to be replaced.. I'm not worried about doing this one myself.
-Fuel pump, alternator, etc. are original as far as I can tell.
-Every maintenance record since the first tire rotation came with the car. It's seriously a BOOK.
-It DOES have the BHR coils & wires, though they have about 30-40k miles on them.
The interior looks brand new, and the car drives flawlessly. The motor starts instantly, hot or cold, and idles smoothly. Sometimes the idle speed dips when the A/C turns on, but only for a second or so. Every car I've had does this to some extent, so I'm not alarmed. Should I be?
I got this car because I wanted (but didn't NEED) to be payment-free, so I'm not going to lose my house if I have to do some major repairs. I'd like to avoid it, though, or at least plan ahead. Let me know your thoughts.
Also, I paid $9k for the car. Did I get ripped off? Don't be gentle, you won't hurt my feelings.
I'm looking for a gauge on the risk I'm in based on these factors:
-The car is on its third motor, the most recent one was replaced about 5500 miles ago.
-The car has never run premix, until now. I've started based on the recommended oils in the premix superthread. Mix ratio is ~220-240:1.
-Clutch, trans, diff, etc. are original. How long does the clutch tend to last? My turbo'd Honda Fit (yes, you read that right) went 120k on the original with no sign of letting up, but my last WRX only made it 65k before it was toast. Where does the 8 fall on the spectrum?
-I'm assuming (should I?) that the coolant, spark plugs, sensors, OMP, etc. were either new or inspected and OK when the motor was replaced. The accessory belts definitely were, based on the receipts.
-Brake pads are new, but the rotors could stand to be replaced.. I'm not worried about doing this one myself.
-Fuel pump, alternator, etc. are original as far as I can tell.
-Every maintenance record since the first tire rotation came with the car. It's seriously a BOOK.
-It DOES have the BHR coils & wires, though they have about 30-40k miles on them.
The interior looks brand new, and the car drives flawlessly. The motor starts instantly, hot or cold, and idles smoothly. Sometimes the idle speed dips when the A/C turns on, but only for a second or so. Every car I've had does this to some extent, so I'm not alarmed. Should I be?
I got this car because I wanted (but didn't NEED) to be payment-free, so I'm not going to lose my house if I have to do some major repairs. I'd like to avoid it, though, or at least plan ahead. Let me know your thoughts.
Also, I paid $9k for the car. Did I get ripped off? Don't be gentle, you won't hurt my feelings.
08-14-2015, 08:16 AM
#3
The Blue Blur
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08-14-2015, 08:29 AM
#4
The Blue Blur
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I'm looking for a gauge on the risk I'm in based on these factors:
-The car is on its third motor, the most recent one was replaced about 5500 miles ago.
-The car has never run premix, until now. I've started based on the recommended oils in the premix superthread. Mix ratio is ~220-240:1.
-Clutch, trans, diff, etc. are original. How long does the clutch tend to last? My turbo'd Honda Fit (yes, you read that right) went 120k on the original with no sign of letting up, but my last WRX only made it 65k before it was toast. Where does the 8 fall on the spectrum?
-I'm assuming (should I?) that the coolant, spark plugs, sensors, OMP, etc. were either new or inspected and OK when the motor was replaced. The accessory belts definitely were, based on the receipts.
-Brake pads are new, but the rotors could stand to be replaced.. I'm not worried about doing this one myself.
-Fuel pump, alternator, etc. are original as far as I can tell.
-Every maintenance record since the first tire rotation came with the car. It's seriously a BOOK.
-It DOES have the BHR coils & wires, though they have about 30-40k miles on them.
-The car is on its third motor, the most recent one was replaced about 5500 miles ago.
-The car has never run premix, until now. I've started based on the recommended oils in the premix superthread. Mix ratio is ~220-240:1.
-Clutch, trans, diff, etc. are original. How long does the clutch tend to last? My turbo'd Honda Fit (yes, you read that right) went 120k on the original with no sign of letting up, but my last WRX only made it 65k before it was toast. Where does the 8 fall on the spectrum?
-I'm assuming (should I?) that the coolant, spark plugs, sensors, OMP, etc. were either new or inspected and OK when the motor was replaced. The accessory belts definitely were, based on the receipts.
-Brake pads are new, but the rotors could stand to be replaced.. I'm not worried about doing this one myself.
-Fuel pump, alternator, etc. are original as far as I can tell.
-Every maintenance record since the first tire rotation came with the car. It's seriously a BOOK.
-It DOES have the BHR coils & wires, though they have about 30-40k miles on them.
The interior looks brand new, and the car drives flawlessly. The motor starts instantly, hot or cold, and idles smoothly. Sometimes the idle speed dips when the A/C turns on, but only for a second or so. Every car I've had does this to some extent, so I'm not alarmed. Should I be?
read these like ten times, then read them again
https://www.rx8club.com/new-member-f...t-here-202454/
https://www.rx8club.com/new-member-f...ot-8-a-202548/
OH and welcome to the addiction... now Pics of the ride
08-14-2015, 09:05 AM
#5
The fact that it starts is a good sign. You could still do a comp test to know where you sit, but with 5500 on the motor... You could be in a really good place, just maintain that.
The rpm dip is normal. Clutch wear is on the long side, we don't see too many early failures.
The rpm dip is normal. Clutch wear is on the long side, we don't see too many early failures.
Last edited by Loki; 08-14-2015 at 09:11 AM.
08-14-2015, 10:54 AM
#7
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Thread Starter
its sounds like it was well maintained... was the remain done by the mazda dealership? those can be a hit or miss. good premix all the things. a turboed FIT?????
YEP. Installed & tuned it myself! Both engines were Mazda remans, installed by different dealerships.
as long as it doesn't shake like the ac is on even when its off you should have any issues. the motor mounts tend to fail
wait you bought a sports car and don't want it to be expensive??
"Want" and "Expect" are two different concepts
That's A little high for the millage, I spent less then 9 for my second 8 with 37k miles.
read these like ten times, then read them again
https://www.rx8club.com/new-member-f...t-here-202454/
https://www.rx8club.com/new-member-f...ot-8-a-202548/
Done and done!
OH and welcome to the addiction... now Pics of the ride
08-14-2015, 02:54 PM
#8
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Thread Starter
I wrote a really long thread, complete with a photo, but somehow the ether ate it 
its sounds like it was well maintained... was the remain done by the mazda dealership? those can be a hit or miss. good premix all the things. a turboed FIT?????
Yep, a turbo Fit. It was fun as hell. I learned to tune on that thing and it still survived until I traded it in on a WRX like 5 years later.
And yes, both engines were Mazda remans, replaced at two different dealers.
as long as it doesn't shake like the ac is on even when its off you should have any issues. the motor mounts tend to fail
wait you bought a sports car and don't want it to be expensive??
"want" and "expect" are not the same!
That's A little high for the millage, I spent less then 9 for my second 8 with 37k miles.
read these like ten times, then read them again
https://www.rx8club.com/new-member-f...t-here-202454/
https://www.rx8club.com/new-member-f...ot-8-a-202548/
Done, and done!
OH and welcome to the addiction... now Pics of the ride
I will, as soon as I figure out how to do that without making my post disappear. I swear I don't have these issues on other forums I post on..
Thanks for the comparatively warm welcome. I'll sniff around for a rotary-friendly dealer in SE Michigan and get myself an appointment for a compression test.
its sounds like it was well maintained... was the remain done by the mazda dealership? those can be a hit or miss. good premix all the things. a turboed FIT?????
Yep, a turbo Fit. It was fun as hell. I learned to tune on that thing and it still survived until I traded it in on a WRX like 5 years later.
And yes, both engines were Mazda remans, replaced at two different dealers.
as long as it doesn't shake like the ac is on even when its off you should have any issues. the motor mounts tend to fail
wait you bought a sports car and don't want it to be expensive??
"want" and "expect" are not the same!
That's A little high for the millage, I spent less then 9 for my second 8 with 37k miles.
read these like ten times, then read them again
https://www.rx8club.com/new-member-f...t-here-202454/
https://www.rx8club.com/new-member-f...ot-8-a-202548/
Done, and done!
OH and welcome to the addiction... now Pics of the ride
Thanks for the comparatively warm welcome. I'll sniff around for a rotary-friendly dealer in SE Michigan and get myself an appointment for a compression test.
08-15-2015, 10:42 AM
#9
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Thread Starter
I got it! ... I think.
Also, I had a nightmare last night. Woke up in a cold sweat... In my dream, I started getting high RPM misfires (blinking CEL).. then I went to start it up hot and it wouldn't fire
I think I have a problem, guys.
08-18-2015, 07:28 AM
#10
40th anniversary Edition
The BHR coils should last the life of the car, so no worries there. The engine has only 5500 miles so you may be ok there without having that compression test done beforehand. Just look after the following items that apply, based on the original mileage of the car.
RX8 Club’s recommended maintenance schedule, more comprehensive and proactive than Mazda’s schedule.
30,000 miles:
- Replace Ignition coils
- Replace Plug wires
- Replace Spark plugs
- Clean MAF (mass air flow sensor)
- Clean ESS (e-shaft sensor)
- Reset ESS profile
- Clean power steering connections
- Clean battery terminals and clamps
- Replace transmission fluid
- Replace coolant (Mazda FL-22 is highly recommended)
- Replace air filter
- Replace brake fluid (fluid in the brake lines AND the clutch line)
~$300 USD in parts if you shop smartly.
every 60,000:
...all 30,000, plus...
- Clean all chassis electrical grounding points
- Replace accessory belts
- Clean OMP lines
- Replace rear differential fluid
- Replace thermostat
- Clean / Straighten AC condenser fins
- Clean / Straighten oil cooler fins
- Inspect catalytic converter
- Clean / Inspect intake valving
- Consider / inspect all points in 90,000+ as well, many items fail early
~$130 USD in parts if you shop smartly.
90,000:
...all 30,000, plus any 60,000 not yet done, plus...
- Replace coolant bottle
- Replace radiator hoses
- Replace radiator
- Replace front O2 sensor
- Replace motor mounts
- Inspect clutch pedal assembly for flex / weld breaks
~$900 USD in parts if you shop smartly.
At 100k, anything original in the cooling system is really suspect and failure prone. It represents the biggest threat to your engine.
RX8 Club’s recommended maintenance schedule, more comprehensive and proactive than Mazda’s schedule.
30,000 miles:
- Replace Ignition coils
- Replace Plug wires
- Replace Spark plugs
- Clean MAF (mass air flow sensor)
- Clean ESS (e-shaft sensor)
- Reset ESS profile
- Clean power steering connections
- Clean battery terminals and clamps
- Replace transmission fluid
- Replace coolant (Mazda FL-22 is highly recommended)
- Replace air filter
- Replace brake fluid (fluid in the brake lines AND the clutch line)
~$300 USD in parts if you shop smartly.
every 60,000:
...all 30,000, plus...
- Clean all chassis electrical grounding points
- Replace accessory belts
- Clean OMP lines
- Replace rear differential fluid
- Replace thermostat
- Clean / Straighten AC condenser fins
- Clean / Straighten oil cooler fins
- Inspect catalytic converter
- Clean / Inspect intake valving
- Consider / inspect all points in 90,000+ as well, many items fail early
~$130 USD in parts if you shop smartly.
90,000:
...all 30,000, plus any 60,000 not yet done, plus...
- Replace coolant bottle
- Replace radiator hoses
- Replace radiator
- Replace front O2 sensor
- Replace motor mounts
- Inspect clutch pedal assembly for flex / weld breaks
~$900 USD in parts if you shop smartly.
At 100k, anything original in the cooling system is really suspect and failure prone. It represents the biggest threat to your engine.
09-01-2015, 11:57 AM
#11
Registered
Thread Starter
Well, I got my (better late than never) compression test:
Rotor 1:
112.81 PSI
111.07 PSI
110.055 PSI
@ 268 RPM
Rotor 2:
114.84 PSI
115.71 PSI
112.81 PSI
@ 272 RPM
I even got a cell phone picture of the tester's screen
The test was done when the car was hot (as far as I am aware, I wasn't there to watch). Looks like I dodged a bullet, and if I just maintain this thing I should be in good shape. First up is plugs, as they're the only thing I don't have a receipt for in my service history book..
Rotor 1:
112.81 PSI
111.07 PSI
110.055 PSI
@ 268 RPM
Rotor 2:
114.84 PSI
115.71 PSI
112.81 PSI
@ 272 RPM
I even got a cell phone picture of the tester's screen
The test was done when the car was hot (as far as I am aware, I wasn't there to watch). Looks like I dodged a bullet, and if I just maintain this thing I should be in good shape. First up is plugs, as they're the only thing I don't have a receipt for in my service history book..
09-02-2015, 08:27 AM
#13
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Thread Starter
We are at about 640' elevation in my town. I know those numbers are not normalized for RPM (I have a screenshot of the tester that specifies the pressure and RPM for both rotors), but I don't know about altitude compensation.
The Foxed.ca calculator shows me in the green either way, so I'm happy!
The Foxed.ca calculator shows me in the green either way, so I'm happy!
09-06-2015, 11:48 AM
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I did the same thing. Went based on maintenance records, though I found out afterwards the Bose cd changer is broken, but I have a Bose changer in my Miata and it's broken in the exact same way, so I'm not really upset or surprised. At least the previous owner bought the aux/usb jack for this car haha.
Getting mine tested in a week or two. glad it worked out for you at least
Getting mine tested in a week or two. glad it worked out for you at least
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