Brainbug

What's cracking out there everybody have a question for you. I am not Mazda enthusiast but I'm also not opposed Mazda. However with that having been said, I recently purchased a 2004 Mazda RX8 that is in every way shape or form cosmetically Cherry AF. I buy and flip cars to make a little profit on the side and typically I purchase them not running the meeting a small amount of work that I perform myself. So I bought this RX8 that just so you know has right at 70,000 miles on it and as I said Cherry. It was running and driving I purchased it however in first gear it was lacking and get up. I figured it was compression. But somewhere along the way it decided to to stop on me. When it decided to stop it made a sound similar to acquire light to medium mechanical sounds came after that as I was driving accelerating and getting absolutely no fuel to the motor. Since then I have replaced a few things starting with x starter plugs wires and then I looked into the possible Apex fin possibly damaged. So I decided to see every building impression as best I could and cleaning out rotary engine itself by performing the property de flood procedures and got the car to start for a moment. I've been added transmission fluid through the spark plug themselves directly and allowed to sit overnight hopefully loosening up any carbon emissions that may have been developing over the two years it set before I purchased it. After 24 hours of sitting I was able to start the vehicle mcast white clouds of toxic fumes all over the place and held it at about 5000 RPM 415 minutes trying to burn out the rest of the transmission fluid that was still in the motor. Let me say also that I did not have the catalytic hpoked up when starting it. After I let it calm down and turned it off I have not been able to start it since then. Any takers help

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

You need to diagnose the issue:

http://foxed.ca/rx7manual/2003mazdar..._S01_0016.html

Brainbug

Sat for 2 years in impound, no rats, no fluids drained×
Driver when parked×
Purchase×
Add fuel×
Drive 10 miles×
Looses power in low gear×
Stops mid drive looses all acceleration×
Wont turn over, no obscure mechanical sounds in motor, crank turning ok×
Mild wine in starter×
New batt ×
Plug×
Wires×
Inspection of vaccum system ok×
Mass airflow fine×
Wet plugs flood×
Deflood dry plugs×
Wont start...
Visual inspection lower bay notice mild damage on exahust, bottomed out i would guess×
Catalytic converter appears to be crimped in 2 small lower oxygen sensor ports?×
Remove cat×
Starts wont idol, sounds low on compression×
European rotary forum advise, possible apex fin damage, performed proper atf carbon buildup motor flush×
Starts after 24hr with no cat×
Burn off excess atf as informed to×
White smoke leaking from front plug×
Wont start again.

Burned off excess
Defloo
Re

gwilliams6

First you need to read these threads ALL the way through:

https://www.rx8club.com/new-member-f...t-here-202454/


https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tro...t-here-222584/

Starting the Engine
• Starter
• Battery
• Engine Compression
• Grounding Wires
• Ignition Coils
• Spark Plugs
• Spark Plug Wires
• Fuel Pump
• Fuel Injectors

You forgot to mention if you changed coils. OEM coils are gone by 20-30k miles and bad coils kill engines and cats. Changing plugs and wires means nothing if you have bad coils. You need to test your coils. Two ways below:

1) https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tec...adings-177879/
2)

You Tube

And you need to check these maintenance items:

RX8 Club’s recommended maintenance schedule, more comprehensive and proactive than Mazda’s schedule.
30,000 miles:
- Replace Ignition coils
- Replace Plug wires
- Replace Spark plugs
- Clean MAF (mass air flow sensor)
- Clean ESS (e-shaft sensor)
- Reset ESS profile
- Clean power steering connections
- Clean battery terminals and clamps
- Replace transmission fluid
- Replace coolant (Mazda FL-22 is highly recommended)
- Replace air filter
- Replace brake fluid (fluid in the brake lines AND the clutch line)
~$300 USD in parts if you shop smartly.


every 60,000:
...all 30,000, plus...
- Clean all chassis electrical grounding points
- Replace accessory belts
- Clean OMP lines
- Replace rear differential fluid
- Replace thermostat
- Clean / Straighten AC condenser fins
- Clean / Straighten oil cooler fins
- Inspect catalytic converter
- Clean / Inspect intake valving
- Consider / inspect all points in 90,000+ as well, many items fail early
~$130 USD in parts if you shop smartly.

90,000:
...all 30,000, plus any 60,000 not yet done, plus...
- Replace coolant bottle
- Replace radiator hoses
- Replace radiator
- Replace front O2 sensor
- Replace motor mounts
- Inspect clutch pedal assembly for flex / weld breaks
~$900 USD in parts if you shop smartly.
At 100k, anything original in the cooling system is really suspect and failure prone. It represents the biggest threat to your engine.

gwilliams6

The market is not great for these cars, and even worse if they have a failed or failing engine. Hopefully when you properly diagnose your car the costs will be reasonable to put it right. If you have to replace the engine, that will be thousands of dollars for a remanufactured engine. Under the best circumstances this will not be a car to give you any high return on a flip. Sorry