Coolant, FL-22, Prestone? Peak? OEM dealer?
04-11-2017, 07:23 PM
#1
New Member
Thread Starter
Coolant, FL-22, Prestone? Peak? OEM dealer?
Newbie here, 2004 with 15K original Miles.
Tried to post but told my account did not have privileges. UGH.
Here’s info:
15,200 miles, 2004 Grand Touring 6 speed, senior owned since new.
734-262-2218
jwmagnusson@yahoo.com. $12,800 PRISTINE
Tried to post but told my account did not have privileges. UGH.
Here’s info:
15,200 miles, 2004 Grand Touring 6 speed, senior owned since new.
734-262-2218
jwmagnusson@yahoo.com. $12,800 PRISTINE
Last edited by John Magnusson; 10-22-2017 at 10:02 AM. Reason: Could not start new post. Account has no privileges??!!??
04-11-2017, 07:28 PM
#2
Water Foul
I will let others answer what aftermarket coolants are suitable. Whatever you choose, it must be free of borates, silicates, and 2EH. You have silicone seals in your engine, and your coolant must be compatible with them. I got tired of reading MSDS sheets and decided it was worth a few bucks to just buy FL-22 and be safe. Wow. That was $22 last time I ordered it.
04-11-2017, 07:30 PM
#3
You gonna eat that?
iTrader: (1)
FL-22 or equivalent only.
My local O'Reilly's sells Beck Arnley FL-22 compliant coolant.
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tec...licone-238638/
My local O'Reilly's sells Beck Arnley FL-22 compliant coolant.
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tec...licone-238638/
04-11-2017, 09:36 PM
#5
///// Upscale Zoom-Zoom
I stick with FL-22
04-12-2017, 07:47 AM
#7
Water Foul
I use this in my Tacoma and my Mom's Camry, and it is great.
Also...
As long as my car is under warranty, I am going to stay with FL-22, however.
My Miata, on the other hand...
Also...
ZEREX™ Asian Vehicle contains no silicates, borates, 2- ethylhexanoic acid (2-EHA), amines or nitrites. It is compatible with premium long life Asian coolants, both for service and factory fill.
My Miata, on the other hand...
04-15-2017, 08:36 AM
#11
New Member
Thread Starter
Asian formula it is
Great fun summer car, just changed oil agaiin, 900 miles since last change,... gotta drive it more, it's a blast. Bought from original owner, 85 yrs old, lady and she even ordered the 6 speed!!!
Thanks for input.
I could not find the engine block drain, so drained the radiator 4 times till it was clear....
All good now. Thanks
Thanks for input.
I could not find the engine block drain, so drained the radiator 4 times till it was clear....
All good now. Thanks
04-15-2017, 09:26 AM
#12
40th anniversary Edition
John, curious, do you have rotary-specific compression numbers on your engine? Even at just 14k miles, this is the only way to know the true health of that 13-year old engine. Is it the original engine, or was it replaced ? How was it driven ? If it was babied by this older driver, then you could have serious carbon buildup inside the engine.
Just stuff you need to know, along with the car's maintenance records.
Just stuff you need to know, along with the car's maintenance records.
04-23-2017, 06:49 AM
#13
New Member
Thread Starter
Good concern when I bought it. Had local dealer confirm compression was within range of spec 110-150. Car checked out in 145+ range. Dealer did full diagnostics to confirm this is a very gently used car, but like new..... and of course with 6 speed... a blast to drive. Thanks again.
04-23-2017, 07:50 PM
#15
New Member
Thread Starter
I'm no mechanic, so the dealer stated compression range was 'as new' . That gives me no concern. The car will never be redlined or raced. My rear license plate frame says"REAL CARS HAVE THREE PEDALS". These are very underrated cars!!! A blast. Thanks for your insight.
04-24-2017, 02:54 AM
#20
Registered
04-24-2017, 09:21 AM
#21
SARX Legend
iTrader: (46)
Redlining doesn't do **** to remove carbon. But yeah you should drive it hard every now and then to get it good and hot to burn the contaminants out of the oil.
Last edited by 9krpmrx8; 04-25-2017 at 10:44 AM.
04-25-2017, 08:29 AM
#22
Registered
The redline once per day is a good rule of thumb to follow.
"Not reving" won't directly damage the seals, but carbon buildup in our engines is a recognized problem. If you spend lots of time under 5k rpm, then yes, you are probably building up excessive carbon needlessly. This carbon will start unseating the seals, causing uneven wear, and start clogging the secondary injector ports. Those ports don't open until 6,500rpm, and under heavy load (meaning lots of throttle input). Over time, this will shorten your engine's lifespan.
I know with my 8, if I spend too much time under 5k (usually in the winter with snow/ice on the roads), my engine starts running noticeably rougher. Taking it out for a good wankle spanking, standing on the throttle through 1st and 2nd gears at least, shifting at redline, the engine smooths right up. The high V/E of the high load high rpm high heat helps to burn off and keep carbon clear. Will it remove all carbon? Nope. But it definitely helps.
Don't be scared of redline. It is there for your transmission, not your engine. Over ~7k rpm there is lots of heat buildup. It's perfectly fine as long as you don't sit in that RPM range. Full power to redline, shift, maybe again a time or two, but let it cool off between and you are fine.
It's also where our power is made, and it puts a smile on my face.
If you have never done it, you are missing part of the joy of this car.
"Not reving" won't directly damage the seals, but carbon buildup in our engines is a recognized problem. If you spend lots of time under 5k rpm, then yes, you are probably building up excessive carbon needlessly. This carbon will start unseating the seals, causing uneven wear, and start clogging the secondary injector ports. Those ports don't open until 6,500rpm, and under heavy load (meaning lots of throttle input). Over time, this will shorten your engine's lifespan.
I know with my 8, if I spend too much time under 5k (usually in the winter with snow/ice on the roads), my engine starts running noticeably rougher. Taking it out for a good wankle spanking, standing on the throttle through 1st and 2nd gears at least, shifting at redline, the engine smooths right up. The high V/E of the high load high rpm high heat helps to burn off and keep carbon clear. Will it remove all carbon? Nope. But it definitely helps.
Don't be scared of redline. It is there for your transmission, not your engine. Over ~7k rpm there is lots of heat buildup. It's perfectly fine as long as you don't sit in that RPM range. Full power to redline, shift, maybe again a time or two, but let it cool off between and you are fine.
It's also where our power is made, and it puts a smile on my face.
If you have never done it, you are missing part of the joy of this car.
04-25-2017, 10:42 AM
#23
SARX Legend
iTrader: (46)
Most of the people on this forum barely understand how a rotary works let alone have any experience tearing one apart and cleaning the carbon out of one.
And Mazda dealers hire anyone who will work for $10.00 an hour, they don't need any prior training or expertise. We have a local guy who is Mazda tech and he was an Army Infantry prior to that so I would take anything a Mazda employee tells you with a grain of salt.
And Mazda dealers hire anyone who will work for $10.00 an hour, they don't need any prior training or expertise. We have a local guy who is Mazda tech and he was an Army Infantry prior to that so I would take anything a Mazda employee tells you with a grain of salt.
04-25-2017, 11:19 AM
#24
As others are saying, rethink that. Mazda included the following in the Mazda Drivers Guide that came with all new RX-8s:
Buzz it.
The RENESIS rotary engine generates linear power and torque that truly engages you at higher rpm ranges. Models with the 6-speed manual transmission redline at 9,000 rpm, while Sport AT models redline at 7,500 rpm. While the RENESIS rotary engine performs best in upper rpm ranges, an engine overrev warning buzzer will sound when the tachometer needle enters the striped zone.
I suspect this was Mazda's gentle, positive way of saying "this engine is not like other engines you're used to. Don't baby it! Rev it high frequently, not only for best performance, but also to help avoid premature engine wear."
Alas, few owners probably read it. And many who did failed to get the hint.
Buzz it.
The RENESIS rotary engine generates linear power and torque that truly engages you at higher rpm ranges. Models with the 6-speed manual transmission redline at 9,000 rpm, while Sport AT models redline at 7,500 rpm. While the RENESIS rotary engine performs best in upper rpm ranges, an engine overrev warning buzzer will sound when the tachometer needle enters the striped zone.
I suspect this was Mazda's gentle, positive way of saying "this engine is not like other engines you're used to. Don't baby it! Rev it high frequently, not only for best performance, but also to help avoid premature engine wear."
Alas, few owners probably read it. And many who did failed to get the hint.
