UzY3L

Any way I can make the stock fans kick in at 100% once the temp exceeds 90 degrees? Would that help during the summer with the stock radiator or will I need to go with the Koyo V2695?

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

Cooling Fan Control Kit by RX-8 Performance | RX8Performance.com


That is a fairly easy way to do that...

You can also use a Cobb Accessport or MazdaEdit to reprogram the fan control temps in the ECU

Stock Radiator is more than adequate for a stock car....

UzY3L

Fan control kit it is. Thanks, dannobre!

Also, weird thing. I found a 2kW starter but it's not from Mitsubishi, it's from Alanko, a company that seems to make good stuff? I think they're from Germany?

Details of the starter are :

Starter (ALANKO)

• Number of mounting bores2
• Flange Ø [mm]67
• Engine Output [kW]2
• Number of Teeth11
• Voltage [V]12

OE Numbers
Proceed to comparison by OEM number

• MAZDA OE-N3H118400A
• MAZDA OE-N3Z118400

• MITSUBISHI OE-M1T30471
• MITSUBISHI OE-M1T30471A

Seems to fit all the bills, not to mention the damn thing is 80% cheaper than the cheapest N3Z1. Seems too good to be true but wanted to check beforehand. Did I mention it's a 2kW starter?

UzY3L

Hi guys,

I have some pics for you. I think you can see which car is good and which is bad

And I bought a 2kW starter for...100euros / 85 GBP. I'm not expecting it to last as long as the original but considering it is a hell of a lot cheaper.
Brand is CV PSH.

Build is gonna start this Saturday. I opted to send the ECU to Wankelshop once the car is registered, for Stage 0 tuning as it deals with the hassle of engine management and cooling so I don't have to mod the fans. It inlcudes :

1. Elimination high revving the engine during cold start cranking.
2. Lowering the high idle speed rpm when the engine is cold.
3. Setting idle
4. Cold start limiter set to your wish rpm.
5. Increasing the oil injection amount.
6. Lowering the switch on temps cooling fan 1 & 2.
7. Elimination of dangerous lean running engine at part load all gears - The well known CAT killer.
8. Adjustment of installed performance coils included.
9. ECO adjustment to approx. 4000 rpm for more efficiency and performance.


Anything I should know about the belt on the engine? Sounds silly but does the rotary need timing? Do I need to replace the belt? Engine is at 80.000Km

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

There is no timing belt or anything that acts like a timing belt in a rotary. The rotors are at a referenced position on the eccentric shaft and that doesn't change. The sensor pulley on the front of the motor tells the ECU where the position of the rotors are.

my only concern for you is the wire size for the coils you are installing. Using the OEM power feed for those coils isn't great due to there high power draw.

If you are going to go through the trouble of installing those coils you might want to run seperate power to them with larger wires....

UzY3L

Thanks for the info!

How would I run larger wires to the coils? Just do it by hand by splicing larger wires from any electronics shop?

Sorry if I don't get it, I'm new to all this and I wanna do it right. Also, any thoughts on the Stage 0 tuning from Wankelshop?

Loki

iTrader: (1)

The retune sounds like a good idea. Out of curiosity what's Stwge 1,2,etc for them? If you're going to send it out, may as well make the most of it.

UzY3L

The Stage0 is an option for me as I can just send the ECU and then mount it back on the car. Can't drive it to be tuned as the shop is a couple of thousand Km away. Stages 1 and 2 required the car to be present.
All stages are listed here : https://www.wankelshop.com/index.php...e-Mapping.html

Would've been too much to paste here. Doesn't say anything about performance gains but honestly, the car as enough power as it is.

As you can see from the pictures, one of them is a bit bent. Previous owner drifted it and smashed right into a pole, which I don't plan on doing.

This will be my only car, I'm going to drive it daily so my main focus is going to be reliability. I invested in those parts specifically for this reason, not for performance.

polatok

how far along are you now?

UzY3L

@polatok : Engine is ready to be pulled from first car. Hoping to get it done this Saturday. I have a friend helping out my Dad with that so that it will be easier. Will update once he actually does it.

tobeit

I wonder if you can install this kit w/o draining, refill, and air purge of the coolant? Some trick to do it w/o it?

UzY3L

Current progress. Still wondering what "dannobre" meant by " If you are going to go through the trouble of installing those coils you might want to run seperate power to them with larger wires...."

Don't the coils come with larger wires / leads already? Am I supposed to give them more power, besides than what they will be drawing through their sockets? If so, how?

Sorry for the potato quality. As you can see, my Dad is good working with metal, not with a camera

Williard

iTrader: (18)

IMO get rid of those "smart coils". Their use is documented here on the forum.
For an example though look at the Sake bomb kit. IIRC they have a larger power wire to them.
Basically they require a good bit of juice. The stock power for our cars is small and old.
Drop them, pick up a BHR kit, problem solved.

Travis

UzY3L

Hi Travis. Thanks for the info. I searched on the site and on google but couldn't find anything besides the AEM dumb coils thread. The BHR was not an option for me as it would have cost a whole lot more, with VAT of 20% and import tax.

I'll ask around some more for what can be done to give good power to the coils. I thought that all coil kits are plug and play for stock applications. Here's what the kit contains :

4 AEM Smart Ignition Coils
1 WANKELSHOP V2A coil mounting set CNC machined
4 Red 8.5mm MSD Super Conductor Performance ignition wires customized for AEM
1 Adapter coil wires to engine harness
3 Mounting screws for engine housing

Isn't that coil adapter the thing I need to power the coils?

Williard

iTrader: (18)

I would need pictures of YOUR setup. If your still drawing power from the stock harness, your wrong. They should have an individual power much larger than stock. Our stock harness is tiny and won't power adequately. It'll work...sure...

Travis

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

Any time you use a patch harness to "add" higher output coils...you are still using the small power wires from the stock wiring harness to provide that power.

The AEM IGN1a coils provide a lot more coil output than the stock coils....but the trade off is that in order to provide that power the power has to come from someplace....in the same amount of time (dwell). So basically if you think about it you are trying to cram 2X or more current down the same size wires that handle the small current demands of the stock coils. The stock wire size will not be able to handle that amount of current...so the wires start to get hot.

The best way to fix this is to use larger power and ground wires directly from a higher output power source like the fuse box and run a fused relay triggered from the stock coils power supply wire so that it turns on and off normally like the stock ignition. That way the coils will get enough power to match there higher output and you won't be limited by the wires or cause a meltdown in the stock wiring

UzY3L

Sorry for the late reply. I've checked with my Dad and the coils come with adapters with larger wires. Not only that, they come with additional connection for grounding them to the car and also they hook up to the negative terminal of the battery.

My knowledge in automotive electronics is almost zero but I think that about covers it for powering the coils.

Clutch was better on the car with the higher mileage (Car1, with Italian license plates) but someone at some point, welded the flywheel (have no idea why or what that does.

The clutch from Car1 stays put but we're gonna use the flywheel from Car2.

Some rust from around the diff is being taken care of also. Oil changed, oil filter changed, Mishimoto 76 degree thermostat was fitted.

Engine mounts (the rubber bushings) from the right side on both cars were shot. I thought I was gonna go put new ones in, so I called Mazda. They quoted me at 183Euros , each. So 365Euros for both. NOPE!

Was gonna order re-manufactured ones from lcrotary.co.uk for 100GBP but my Dad had a brighter idea of just using the one from the left side on the right side, as they fit. Code for left side bushing is 39-040 , code for right side is 39-050. Seems as though they have different codes only for the purpose of selling more.

Ironically, the bushings from a Dacia 1310 (Renault 12) fit PERFECTLY and should hold, as the engine in that is 130Kg vs 110Kg on the RX-8 (at least, according to my Dad). And those cost 30Euros both Gotta love it!

I'll keep you guys updated and I'll provide the total cost of doing this once the car is up and running.

Williard

iTrader: (18)

Your ADAPTER uses larger wires. Which means you are still using the factory power, which is what we've been saying is wrong.

Travis

UzY3L

I'll take some pics later this week when I get home. I hope the wiring is ok. Wouldn't want to finish the build only to have to rewire it...

Williard

iTrader: (18)

No one needs pics now, we all understand the situation.

The problem we are pointing out is your are taking an 16ish gauge wire and using an adapter to connect to a larger wire. THAT DOESN"T MEAN YOU"LL GET MORE JUICE. The stock harness can only provide so much, less than the AEM coils require to function properly.

You need to power those coils from a different location (direct from the battery) in order to get the power you require for them to function as intended.

Otherwise your "upgrade" is pointless (which some will argue anyway, myself included) and the only thing your going to accomplish is damage. Please do research


Travis

UzY3L

By "pics", I meant the current setup of the coils as they are mounted on the car.

My Dad did mention that the coils come with the adapters, and two more connections, one for grounding and one to the battery.

I have done research to the best of my abilities, but let me be frank: my Dad has never worked on a rotary and the only two vehicles in my life were a 50cc scooter and a Smart ForTwo. I've been reading up on the RX-8 since November.

We will not start the car until I get there, that's for sure. But going by process of elimination, I can only assume that the coils are powered from the battery.

What would be the point in AEM providing adapters with larger wires that plug in the same socket? It defeats the purpose of the adapter. Why would they have sent two more connections for the coils, one which leads to the battery? And lastly, why would the seller not mention nor recommend nor specify nor sell any additional power equipment for the coils?

Maybe something got lost in translation. Maybe my Dad figures out how to mount or power the things. I won't know until I get there.

I understand your concern and trust me, it's the same for me. If the coils try to draw power from the stock sockets, there is a risk of melting the car's electronics. And bot my Dad and I would be pulling our hair out if that were to happen

Williard

iTrader: (18)

Those plugs are for more than just power.

If you have a larger power wire running direct from the battery to power the coils you "should" be alright. I say that because as stated earlier, those coils have a history and no matter how much some individuals try to hide it, it exists.

post pics, lets break this down nice n good.

Travis

UzY3L

Sorry for the late reply, I've been literally running all over the place for this car. There are some issues with the title and the paperwork and sorting them out is taking forever and involves endless lines at each office... Not to mention that if I don't sort them out, I can't drive it legally...

I cannot get pictures of the coils but they do feed separately from the battery. I don't really understand it but basically, the adapters act like a "Y" junction and get the the command from the ECU and the power from the battery. Had them checked at a service center and they are ok.

The bad :

-4th gear pinion is worn and creaks under high engine load
-differential has some issues
-cooling is not ok (stays at 94 degrees celsius and at 100 under load / 201 and 212 fahrenheit respectively)
-car failed the M.O.T. / technical inspection / road legal test . emissions are too high and it is smoking from the exhaust, even when warm
-stutters and jerks if I lift the clutch too fast under low revs. It's not a misfire, it's something from the clutch, almost as if it's not grabbing fully
-wheels are bent off center and even at 100KPH / 60MPH you have to fight it to keep it steady

The good:
-revs like a champ
-does not flood. I did 4 consecutive cold starts (just for the heck of it) and it started every single time, like any other normal car. Start time is under 2 seconds
-cabin heating is great
-everything electric inside is working
-drove my sys, Dad and Mom in it. They all fit. Wasn't expecting that


I need to pass the emissions test and I'm having a hard time figuring out what is wrong. O2sensor (Lambda sensor)? CAT ? Both?

All I know is that it is smoking when hot, which is shouldn't do.

The engine is running fine so the problem is with one of those two.

Here's two pics of the beast. This was literally all the time I had when I went home to work on her.

UzY3L

Ok, found the issue. Missfire on Rotor1 (and not the O2 sensors). The problem is, the leads and the spark plugs are in the correct order. Which means that somehow, the connectors from the car that connect from the electrical system into the coils, have been reversed.

How can I find out the correct order for reconnecting the coils to their respective connector / socket? Or is the order irrelevant?

All I can find is the order for connecting the leads from the coils to the spark plugs but nothing on which order is correct to connect the coils to the car itself.

Loki

iTrader: (1)

It should be very difficult to mess up the coil harness order ( and it is important). Did you modify the wiring or something? f you look at the 4 plugs, they are arranged in the same order as the coils, front to back. So the front one (L1) is the longest, T2 is the shortest. If something is stretched then it's wrong.

There could be other causes for the misfire: bad coils, old spark plugs, damaged high tension leads, or bad injectors.

Under what condition does it misfire? idle? full throttle? cruise?