Daboy150

I had a CEL on for misfire #2 so i decided to go with the BHR kit and swap my plugs out at the same time. I'm pretty sure I did it correctly, and everything went in without any trouble at all. It started right up and the idle is incredibly smooth now( it was SO choppy before i thought the engine was going to die). (The CEL is off now too)

It starts up in the cold fine, but i drove it around and got it real warm yesterday and I had to hold the key in crank position for 4-5 seconds before it started once. The engine only has 59,000 on it.

The only thing I can think of is i torqued the spark plugs wrong maybe? I didn't have my tq wrench so I just went to where it felt slightly tight plus 1/4 turn or so.

Should I get a compression test before I test/ swap in a new starter/alternator?


Also: What does the hose going off the oil fill go to? I noticed it was unplugged before I started. It looked like there was a hole for it in the intake boot but it doesn't quite fit snugly

04Green

iTrader: (1)

For starters, I take it you did plugs as well. Did you do an ECU reset? If the computer is working with old data about the ignition and plugs, it may take a bit to figure out the new settings. Best thing is, with a cold engine, do the 20 brake stomp, then start it an let it idle until the RPMs come down to the 850 area.

That is what I would do.

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

Not unusual to have harder starting after installing these . Make sure your ground is good . A lot of people run a seperate heavy duty ground to the battery earth .

04Green

iTrader: (1)

The Congrats thread has a ground DIY. I am starting to believe that just putting a star washer between the contact and the body of the car is enough. It is cheaper, easier, and looks cleaner. Care to test it? Others have found it works.

Legot

iTrader: (1)

Wait guys! You missed something.

I doubt you did both resets properly, but that's not the only issue. The hose going from the oil filler is supposed to go directly to the accordion intake tube. If it's not connected it will serve as an absolutely massive vacuum leak, which will cause problems once the ECU goes closed loop. The hose barbs break fairly easily, you'll have to get a new one (brass works).

bigbuck

I also had something similar to worse starts after I installed my bhr kit I haven't done the star washers for grounding but was also told that if it's all good that the bhr kit will show that the engine pretty much has low compression

04Green

iTrader: (1)

++ Legot

Either cap the hose, or re attach it. Because yes, that will act like a vacuum leak. It is not really one, but acts exactly like one when it interacts with the Jet Air line.

Daboy150

Thanks all for the replies! This is a great forum. The end of the hose came off I guess so its a poor fit. What is that hose called so I can buy a new one? Should I just plug it and plug the hole in the side of the intake where it should go for now?

Its a 2004 manual rx8

Maybe my ground for the bhr kit wasn't good enough. I'll move it today and see what happens. I bought a grounding kit too i'll put on.

04Green

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like a plan.

Like Charles says, it is unmetered air that is this the issue. If you plug it, that will take care of most of the issue. It does need to be hooked up right though or you will get oil fumes and mist all over the place.

If you are messing with it, not a bad time for a catch can installation. I plugged 2 of the holes on the tube, ran a T off the oil fill, a T off the OMP vent, went into the catch can, then came out of the catch can and went down to the Jet Air line. I also made the line from the tube to up higher than the port on the oil fill, then it is down hill all the way to the catch can.

Daboy150

Well I fixed the oil hose, tried new grounds and nothing. Next step is replacing my starter, i found a 2kw one on ebay that 226 people had also bought with good feedback for only $100 with a 1 yr warranty. So I'll give that a shot, otherwise I'm going to go get a compression test.

dag

Funny, my battery has been giving me fits lately too and I installed the BHR kit in August. My battery (Interstate) is about 2 years old I believe (need to find that receipt). I was actually going to just bring in the battery to replace it. The primary symptom I have is the battery doesn't appear to have enough juice in the morning. If I don't drive my 8 for 2-3 days, the battery is dead. But starts after I drive it appear to be fine. To me that's looking like the battery isn't charging enough (dead cell) or I have something draining the battery. I haven't taken the 8 to a shop to test the alternator/battery nor have I replaced the belts (11 years old, but feels tight and looks decent). I prefer having work like this done by someone knowledgeable, but it is so difficult to arrange to get my car to them (dealer or JPR). Will replacing the ground wire make that much of a difference?

ken-x8

Dag, don't put that much faith in finding someone who knows what they're doing. I once struggled way too long with a dead battery because the testers used at Sears and and another shop kept declaring it to be good. Symptoms were similar to yours. One failure mode is cells partially dying, so the battery seems to be good but has way lower capacity. Harder to diagnose than the usual one-dead-cell thing because the total voltage stays high.

If you have a voltmeter, you can do a quick check on battery voltage and alternator output.

Ken

dag

Thanks Ken and Charles. Any DVM OK or should I seek out particular brands/models?

ken-x8

Any decent DVM will work. Get one with a decent display so you don't have to squint to read it. Also long enough leads to reach where you need to, and clips (not just probe points) for the ends of the leads so you won't run out of hands.

I prefer meters with settable voltage ranges rather than auto-ranging, but that may just be me.

Ken

dag

How's this one look?

Actron Auto Analyzer Digital Multimeter CP7665: Buy the right Code Readers/Scanners at Advance Auto Parts

ken-x8

That should work.

I'll have to take a look at that next time I'm down at the local Advance. I'm still running on a $10 one that I bought at Micro Center. Most of its ranges still work.

Ken

MazdaPi

iTrader: (1)

So I'm a bit noobish. But I've been having vacuum leak like symptoms after installing my BHR. Is this a problem I'd experience on a series 2? What do I need to plug/fix? You can pm me if that's easier I am a little inexperienced with certain things. I will also be throwing a star washer in to try and fix any grounding issues.

G_ man

iTrader: (2)

Not sure why you would have a vacum leak after installing the BHR coils unless
you pulled some hoses off during the install. Re-check your install.

paimon.soror

iTrader: (15)

check the vac line that is located under the throttle body. You may have yoinked it accidentally while trying to mount the coils.

MazdaPi

iTrader: (1)

Ill check that asap. Also I've been fiddling with the power steering a lot so I've had to really yank on the airbox a few times.

I'm also getting crazy amounts of condensation inside the car while I'm driving longgg after the cars been warmed up. Like 3 hours.

Daboy150

I put a new starter in last night and also installed the grounding kit car starts up on the first crank now everything is good