04 Mazda rx-8 Automatic stalling issues
02-22-2017, 12:23 AM
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04 Mazda rx-8 Automatic stalling issues
Hello everyone! My name is Anthony and I just recently got a 2004 Mazda Rx-8 (automatic/Eletronic Manual) from my parents neighbor. It was an older lady and no modifications had been done whatsoever. It has about 130,000 miles on it and the engine was replaced about 3-4 years ago and she barely drove the thing and said at most she had put about 30,000 miles on the new engine. She had gotten everything done at the Mazda dealership and had saved all the paper work from it so I believed her.
The first thing that was done to the car was the transmission had a leak so I took it in and had that fixed along with replacing the battery. Still having stalling issues along with a rough idle and when pushing on the gas wasn't as responsive. Next thing I replaced were the ignition coils, spark plugs, spark plug wires, air filter, and cleaning the throttle body. The throttle body wasn't that dirty but didn't hurt to clean it out a bit. The ignition coils and spark plugs were the worst. It helped a lot, car ran smoother and didn't stall as much as it used to. So that's where I am now.
The car runs perfectly when driving it after letting it warm up. Then after about a half hour of driving it begins to have a rough idle along with it dropping under 800 RPM when coming to a complete stop so it begins to stall again. I prevent it from happening by letting off the breaks so it rolls gaining the rpm back. It stops it from stalling but the idle is rough. If I keep doing this the RPM begins to fluctuate along with the lights on the dash dimming a bit. Also when going to accelerate after using the little trick the gas peddle isn't as responsive at first then it jerks back and takes off no problem. I'm also hearing a clicking when it shifts itself into gears when driving it at low rpm speeds. I tried checking the CAT to see if it was glowing and it was not. I also noticed that it always stalls and always has a rough idle when the air conditioning is on cold. There is no check engine light on whatsoever until it stalls. The battery light comes on along with the check engine light. The only time the check engine has came on is when a fuse had gone out and my radio wasn't working along with gauges being jumpy. (I guess I failed to mention that earlier but I had replaced that also fixing the problem) I'm just confused that the stalling isn't producing a check engine light but a fuse did? I use the recommended gas and make sure the oil is always good.
Before taking it to the dealership and have them **** me on prices I thought I'd see if anyone could help me out.
The first thing that was done to the car was the transmission had a leak so I took it in and had that fixed along with replacing the battery. Still having stalling issues along with a rough idle and when pushing on the gas wasn't as responsive. Next thing I replaced were the ignition coils, spark plugs, spark plug wires, air filter, and cleaning the throttle body. The throttle body wasn't that dirty but didn't hurt to clean it out a bit. The ignition coils and spark plugs were the worst. It helped a lot, car ran smoother and didn't stall as much as it used to. So that's where I am now.
The car runs perfectly when driving it after letting it warm up. Then after about a half hour of driving it begins to have a rough idle along with it dropping under 800 RPM when coming to a complete stop so it begins to stall again. I prevent it from happening by letting off the breaks so it rolls gaining the rpm back. It stops it from stalling but the idle is rough. If I keep doing this the RPM begins to fluctuate along with the lights on the dash dimming a bit. Also when going to accelerate after using the little trick the gas peddle isn't as responsive at first then it jerks back and takes off no problem. I'm also hearing a clicking when it shifts itself into gears when driving it at low rpm speeds. I tried checking the CAT to see if it was glowing and it was not. I also noticed that it always stalls and always has a rough idle when the air conditioning is on cold. There is no check engine light on whatsoever until it stalls. The battery light comes on along with the check engine light. The only time the check engine has came on is when a fuse had gone out and my radio wasn't working along with gauges being jumpy. (I guess I failed to mention that earlier but I had replaced that also fixing the problem) I'm just confused that the stalling isn't producing a check engine light but a fuse did? I use the recommended gas and make sure the oil is always good.
Before taking it to the dealership and have them **** me on prices I thought I'd see if anyone could help me out.
Last edited by Shakeywarrior; 02-22-2017 at 12:53 AM. Reason: Didn't finish
02-22-2017, 05:12 PM
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Try spraying carb cleaner around all vacuum hoses listen if the motor revs up for a leak also check your secondary air pump I have the same issue but I clean the throttle body with carb cleaner then it runs like **** after until carb cleaner evaporates also check your mass air flow sensor and clean that get a scan tool on it and check live data or pending/stored ccodes
02-23-2017, 02:09 PM
#4
40th anniversary Edition
Engine Power Loss
• chokes as revs increase
o O2 sensor failure (too rich)
o MAF failure
o MAF disconnected
o e-shaft sensor fouled
o accessory belt fraying
• high end power loss (hard fuel cut)
o Rev limit reached
• high end power loss (jerky and stumbling)
o Ignition failure
o fuel pressure loss
o e-shaft sensor fouled
• high end power loss (smooth)
o Catalytic converter clog
o air filter clog
• low end power loss (smooth)
o Engine compression loss
• low end power loss (stumbles)
o Ignition failure
o front O2 sensor failure
• revs slowly but smoothly
o O2 sensor failure (too lean)
o catalytic converter clog
o air filter clog
• sudden power drop at a specific rpm
o Intake valving actuation problem
• trouble getting to redline
o Ignition failure
o front O2 sensor failure
o catalytic converter clog
o air filter clog
o e-shaft sensor fouled
o fuel pressure loss
o MAF failure
• chokes as revs increase
o O2 sensor failure (too rich)
o MAF failure
o MAF disconnected
o e-shaft sensor fouled
o accessory belt fraying
• high end power loss (hard fuel cut)
o Rev limit reached
• high end power loss (jerky and stumbling)
o Ignition failure
o fuel pressure loss
o e-shaft sensor fouled
• high end power loss (smooth)
o Catalytic converter clog
o air filter clog
• low end power loss (smooth)
o Engine compression loss
• low end power loss (stumbles)
o Ignition failure
o front O2 sensor failure
• revs slowly but smoothly
o O2 sensor failure (too lean)
o catalytic converter clog
o air filter clog
• sudden power drop at a specific rpm
o Intake valving actuation problem
• trouble getting to redline
o Ignition failure
o front O2 sensor failure
o catalytic converter clog
o air filter clog
o e-shaft sensor fouled
o fuel pressure loss
o MAF failure
02-23-2017, 02:11 PM
#5
40th anniversary Edition
Starting the Engine
• Starter
• Battery
• Engine Compression
• Grounding Wires
• Ignition Coils
• Spark Plugs
• Spark Plug Wires
• Fuel Pump
• Fuel Injectors
Keeping the Engine at an Idle
• Ignition Coils
• Spark Plugs
• Spark Plug Wires
• Engine Compression
• E-Shaft Sensor (ESS)
• Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAF)
• Front O2 sensor
• Catalytic Converter (Cat)
• Intake Vaccum
• Starter
• Battery
• Engine Compression
• Grounding Wires
• Ignition Coils
• Spark Plugs
• Spark Plug Wires
• Fuel Pump
• Fuel Injectors
Keeping the Engine at an Idle
• Ignition Coils
• Spark Plugs
• Spark Plug Wires
• Engine Compression
• E-Shaft Sensor (ESS)
• Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAF)
• Front O2 sensor
• Catalytic Converter (Cat)
• Intake Vaccum
02-23-2017, 02:19 PM
#6
I've been hearing a lot about this kind of issue lately ... especially autos losing power after 15 mins or so of cruising . I suspect its carbon deposits on the seals that causes low compression .
Something that's been tried over here with success is to premix at 100:1 . Give it a try and see if it helps .
Something that's been tried over here with success is to premix at 100:1 . Give it a try and see if it helps .
Last edited by Brettus; 02-23-2017 at 02:44 PM.
02-24-2017, 07:11 AM
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Thank you all for the feedback!
Thank you all for the feedback. I'm now suspecting it's my fuel pump. I've been reading other threads about the symptoms and they are almost exactly like the ones I am having now. I'm ordering one today. I cleaned my MAF sensor and it didn't change anything. But anyways I'll update with the results when I'm done with the swap. Once again thank you all for your feedbacks.
02-24-2017, 08:38 AM
#9
Thank you all for the feedback. I'm now suspecting it's my fuel pump. I've been reading other threads about the symptoms and they are almost exactly like the ones I am having now. I'm ordering one today. I cleaned my MAF sensor and it didn't change anything. But anyways I'll update with the results when I'm done with the swap. Once again thank you all for your feedbacks.
02-24-2017, 09:50 AM
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well I noticed that when my tank is all the way filled the problems aren't there but when I'm at 3/4 it begins to happen and gets worse as more fuel is gone. But this thread made me feel like it was my fuel pump. Also when I go to start the bad boy with it full tank it starts up with no hesitation. When it's 3/4 it takes a few seconds longer and then when I have no gas it struggles to turn on. Let me know what you think though.
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-trouble-shooting-95/bad-fuel-pump-244542/
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-trouble-shooting-95/bad-fuel-pump-244542/
Last edited by Shakeywarrior; 02-24-2017 at 09:52 AM.
02-24-2017, 02:22 PM
#11
well I noticed that when my tank is all the way filled the problems aren't there but when I'm at 3/4 it begins to happen and gets worse as more fuel is gone. But this thread made me feel like it was my fuel pump. Also when I go to start the bad boy with it full tank it starts up with no hesitation. When it's 3/4 it takes a few seconds longer and then when I have no gas it struggles to turn on. Let me know what you think though.
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tro...l-pump-244542/
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tro...l-pump-244542/
02-24-2017, 02:37 PM
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Hello everyone,
I'm new on here and for a while I have just been reading about the many issues rx8's have. I currently own a 2005 rx8 and boy it has given me so many problems. Well, not quite sure what the problem is, because every time I bring in for service they say nothing is wrong with it. Clearly there is something wrong. First issue.....When I put the gear in reverse(btw it is automatic) there is a rattling noise that it makes while reversing. Can someone tell me what that may be?
Second issue: I told the service people that my car thumps at the bottom, sounds like it is hitting something beneath the car itself, and they told me it is normal. NORMAL!!! so anyway, I thought maybe it might be my struts and shocks, but it couldn't be cause they found no leakage of any sort. I'm thinking it might be my wheels I have on. Regular size is 18in but I have 20"s. Could that be the thump I hear when I drive on small bumps? Do I need to change back to the 18"s? and what happens if I do put the 18's back on and it still does it?
I'm new on here and for a while I have just been reading about the many issues rx8's have. I currently own a 2005 rx8 and boy it has given me so many problems. Well, not quite sure what the problem is, because every time I bring in for service they say nothing is wrong with it. Clearly there is something wrong. First issue.....When I put the gear in reverse(btw it is automatic) there is a rattling noise that it makes while reversing. Can someone tell me what that may be?
Second issue: I told the service people that my car thumps at the bottom, sounds like it is hitting something beneath the car itself, and they told me it is normal. NORMAL!!! so anyway, I thought maybe it might be my struts and shocks, but it couldn't be cause they found no leakage of any sort. I'm thinking it might be my wheels I have on. Regular size is 18in but I have 20"s. Could that be the thump I hear when I drive on small bumps? Do I need to change back to the 18"s? and what happens if I do put the 18's back on and it still does it?
02-24-2017, 04:09 PM
#14
Hello everyone,
I'm new on here and for a while I have just been reading about the many issues rx8's have. I currently own a 2005 rx8 and boy it has given me so many problems. Well, not quite sure what the problem is, because every time I bring in for service they say nothing is wrong with it. Clearly there is something wrong. First issue.....When I put the gear in reverse(btw it is automatic) there is a rattling noise that it makes while reversing. Can someone tell me what that may be?
Second issue: I told the service people that my car thumps at the bottom, sounds like it is hitting something beneath the car itself, and they told me it is normal. NORMAL!!! so anyway, I thought maybe it might be my struts and shocks, but it couldn't be cause they found no leakage of any sort. I'm thinking it might be my wheels I have on. Regular size is 18in but I have 20"s. Could that be the thump I hear when I drive on small bumps? Do I need to change back to the 18"s? and what happens if I do put the 18's back on and it still does it?
I'm new on here and for a while I have just been reading about the many issues rx8's have. I currently own a 2005 rx8 and boy it has given me so many problems. Well, not quite sure what the problem is, because every time I bring in for service they say nothing is wrong with it. Clearly there is something wrong. First issue.....When I put the gear in reverse(btw it is automatic) there is a rattling noise that it makes while reversing. Can someone tell me what that may be?
Second issue: I told the service people that my car thumps at the bottom, sounds like it is hitting something beneath the car itself, and they told me it is normal. NORMAL!!! so anyway, I thought maybe it might be my struts and shocks, but it couldn't be cause they found no leakage of any sort. I'm thinking it might be my wheels I have on. Regular size is 18in but I have 20"s. Could that be the thump I hear when I drive on small bumps? Do I need to change back to the 18"s? and what happens if I do put the 18's back on and it still does it?