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Hey Tilt....which is the correct way to change damper settings, all the way to soft then work your way to stiff, or all the way stiff and work downward?
Ive seen certain coilovers go either way.
I also lifted the rears a bit, and tightened everything, no more rattle :-)
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Some suggest keeping dampers on soft for the first 50-100 miles but this isn't something really required, and may be a bit of myth. I don't know of any objective info on the subject, so really think it's a null point.
I too have heard both sides. Ive built quite a few off-road suspension trucks and have had springs "settle" after a week or so. I have decided to stay in full soft dampening and plan to for the rest of the week. On Saturday (7 day mark) I will realign the car and mess with dampening.
Hey guys, anyone free this weekend to give me a hand installing these coilovers? i am in south bay socal are but am willing to drive for some help. Thanks!!
Hey Tilt....which is the correct way to change damper settings, all the way to soft then work your way to stiff, or all the way stiff and work downward?
Ive seen certain coilovers go either way.
I also lifted the rears a bit, and tightened everything, no more rattle :-)
I recall reading in the Powertrix Howtos that you should always start soft and click your way stiff.
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We are a family like a pack of coyotes is a family; we roll together but we are totally willing to eat our young. -Kane
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The reason i asked to listen experience show me your experiences ? Know is different thing, you know but you are not experienced ! -thunderberk
Crazy.8 - No wheel spacers are required to install these coilovers.
Looks like it will be sooner - shooting for production to start early april having these landing late May.
So if all goes well, next GB would be in a few weeks. We'll see! Form this next batch we'll be creating an RX8 specific instructional video to help with adjustments and installation.
Thank you all for the PM's. Many of you have been very helpful - no single word/suggestion goes unnoticed!
10k/7k Coils installed. Shims/washers for the fronts worked just fine to clear the stock tower bar. Not a chance in hell to get the upper supporting brackets for the rears installed without binding everything else in the rear. Don't know why, but there is no chance to make them fit on my car. I'll post pics to show just how far off they are. I'd say 4mm from touching the body towards the front of the car and 2mm on the rear. Ill post pics in a bit. Dampers set at 12 and it's still soft to me. (but very streetable!)
Rays RE30 18x9.5+28 Hankook R-S3 245/40R18
F: -2.5 Camber 0/16 Toe - Rolled fenders (slight rub at 3+9 o'clock positions)
R: -2.0 Camber -1/16 Toe - Rolled fenders/shaved tab/bolt (slight rub self clearancing)
Loosening the RED Arrowed bolts allows the top bracket to rotate about 10 degrees on the GREEN arrow lines to line up with the brackets.
Even so, the BLUE arrows show the best clearance I was able to get.
(Those numbers being much lower than what the spacing is on the drivers side.)
The YELLOW arrow is showing the distance that the bracket sticks out from the coil.
Perhaps I'm unlucky but the coil+bracket sticks inside the car just too far to install the stock braces on the drivers side.
Spent about 30 mins in the driveway after cutting a 6mm hex key with a grinder to reach the rear bolts to loosen them enough to turn the bracket to no avail.
Thinking if I get a rear adjustable tower bar I might be able to get them in properly.
Anyone chime in on similar issues or corrective actions? I'm thinking of using flat washers to space out the stock bracket on the body studs possibly with rubber grommets. Thanks!
Here is what I mean.
Loosening the RED Arrowed bolts allows the top bracket to rotate about 10 degrees on the GREEN arrow lines to line up with the brackets.
Even so, the BLUE arrows show the best clearance I was able to get.
(Those numbers being much lower than what the spacing is on the drivers side.)
The YELLOW arrow is showing the distance that the bracket sticks out from the coil.
Perhaps I'm unlucky but the coil+bracket sticks inside the car just too far to install the stock braces on the drivers side.
Spent about 30 mins in the driveway after cutting a 6mm hex key with a grinder to reach the rear bolts to loosen them enough to turn the bracket to no avail.
Thinking if I get a rear adjustable tower bar I might be able to get them in properly.
Anyone chime in on similar issues or corrective actions? I'm thinking of using flat washers to space out the stock bracket on the body studs possibly with rubber grommets. Thanks!
first I want to start by saying your car looks amazing.
the only thing i can recommend trying is totally loosen the 3 bolts (two on top, one on bottom) that attach the strut to the tower. make sure they are really lose then drop the car off the jack and maybe even drive around the block slowly. when you come back tighten the two on top with torque, lift the car and tighten the bottom.set it down again and reattempt the lateral braces.
Loosening the RED Arrowed bolts allows the top bracket to rotate about 10 degrees on the GREEN arrow lines to line up with the brackets.
Even so, the BLUE arrows show the best clearance I was able to get.
(Those numbers being much lower than what the spacing is on the drivers side.)
The YELLOW arrow is showing the distance that the bracket sticks out from the coil.
Perhaps I'm unlucky but the coil+bracket sticks inside the car just too far to install the stock braces on the drivers side.
Spent about 30 mins in the driveway after cutting a 6mm hex key with a grinder to reach the rear bolts to loosen them enough to turn the bracket to no avail.
Thinking if I get a rear adjustable tower bar I might be able to get them in properly.
Anyone chime in on similar issues or corrective actions? I'm thinking of using flat washers to space out the stock bracket on the body studs possibly with rubber grommets. Thanks!
I HAD THE SAME PROB BUT, I GOT THAT TO MOVE WITH A HAMMER AND A CHISLE.
I too had similar problems. But like RMXG8 said, I was able to get it to fit with a hammer. My post is up a little further on this list about it. I was immediately flamed by a few people about it though so I dropped the subject. Like I know nothing about working on cars. There have been a couple posts about it already and I figured it was only a matter of time before more people chimed in. Im not the only one. From what I remember, it was more of a problem on the right rear more so than the left.
No doubt its a design flaw, but Its small enough to deal with and was easy enough to handle on my own. So I didn't make a huge deal about it.
Im thinking the easiest fix would be new top adapters that sit closer to the shock body. Id shave down the face of the ones that came with them but they aren't thick enough to have any material/threads left. Might take them off, have them cut and rewelded shorter, or have new ones made. Not a fan of adding lateral pressure against the shock bodies by just torquing them in. Maybe the next run will have the issue resolved (depending on if this effects everyone) and we can get a hookup by sending in the old plates? Depends on how many ppl have the issue over all.
im starting to think i may not have gotten the 10k.7k springs on my coils. been driving around on them for a while now with the damening set to 12 and it feels way too soft. had to raise the car up to keep from rubbing on every little bump and i was never that low to begin with. its almost 5 full inches of travel and its worse at low speeds. anyone elses feel too soft? i know if some of you guys with really agressive wheels had even half of the suspension travel mine has your cars wouldnt even be drivable.... taking them out tomorrow and thightening everything back up again for good measure to see what that will do..
edit: ment to put thisin the powertrix owners thread. but ill leave this here anyway
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2013 drift build in progress.
Last edited by willnordacgreen1211; 04-16-2012 at 04:14 PM.
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