Vyndictive

iTrader: (28)

First: I know this really doesn't belong here, but the motorcycle forums I post on are useless, there seems to be more knowledge on here.

Anyway, I'm looking to paint my exhaust pipes on my motorcycle. I know to use high temp engine paint...

My question is this: the pipes are chrome, discolored and pitted in many spots. What should I do to prep the pipes for paint. Do I need a high heat primer or something? No one has been really helpful on this with me.
What should I use to clean the pipes before painting?

I'm also looking to paint the side engine covers also... what procedure would those need?

I know nothing is a simple as, buy spray paint, spray, repeat until satisfied.

Any help, suggestions, outside links would be appreciated.

Silver06

If the pipes are chromed - nothing will stick.

I would suggest that if you have to have them media blasted to remove the chrome, or tidy up any rust, then you should consider powdercoating.

If you do want to paint, then I don't think any paint will stick on the first couple of inches where they come out of the head(s). I have seen painted pipes (Harleys / Buells) where they have painted the pipes with hi-heat paint, and then wrapped these first six or so inches with header wrap.

I'm afraid I don't have a brand of paint at my fingertips.

Good luck.



Edit: just remembered jet-hot coating (instead of ceramic) if you want flat black.

Vyndictive

iTrader: (28)

Ha, nothing can ever be easy!

Thanks for a good place to start though!

RX8-Frontier

Don't powdercoat exhaust pipes. It won't work well. Exhaust temps on an air-cooled motorcycle are hotter than what it takes to bake the powder coat, i.e., your paint will drip off...

Basically, you've got to remove that chrome before you're going to be able to paint it. Don't know how thick of a chrome layer you have, but it's likely to be several mils. If you don't have access to a sandblaster, then use an angle grinder and a medium grit sanding disk (around 200 or so) and take off the chrome. Then start sanding with 400, then 800, then 1500 to get it ready to paint. After that, paint away with high temperature paint.

Use a high temperature exhaust paint and you should be fine. Anyplace that sells the high temperature paint will sell the high temperature primer as well. You're probably going to want to put on several coats of paint; wet sand with a 1500 grit sandpaper in between coats. DON'T clear-coat it when you're done; use enough layers of paint and allow it to set up properly, and you won't need a clear coat. Problem with clear coat is, the high-temp clear coat sucks; it isn't all that "high-temp", and it will yellow as it bakes....

As to the side engine covers. Are these metal or plastic? You didn't say, so I don't know. If they're metal, follow the same procedures as for the pipes. If they're plastic, you won't have to do as many intermediate sandings, and you'll have to use a clear coat.

Hope that helps!

(edit: if it were me, I'd take the downtubes off, clean off all the chrome layers, then find a shop that'll ceramic coat them for me. Or just use a header wrap. Either way, that's better than just painting, 'cause it helps them to not absorb heat, keeping your engine running cooler and your legs cooler, too. On the bikes I've had in the past, it always helps in the summer to get as much heat away from the engine core (and your legs) as possible!!)

Vyndictive

iTrader: (28)

That is some solid advice. I do have access to a sandblaster as well as the grits of grinding wheels you're talking about.

The side engine covers are painted metal... Though I might save that project to see how the pipes look.

Its a liquid cooled bike, so it will run cooler than air cooled, but I don't know by how much.
Its a 1990 Suzuki VX800, pretty rare bike, and for good reason; it does a lot of things alright, but it really doesn't do anything great. Its more of a usable, ride-able project I have... which is why I'm willing to sandblast and destroy a chrome finish

RX8-Frontier

Those engine side covers... Any particular color you're going for? I've shined up a lot of aluminum on some bikes I've had over the years... To me, a nice brushed metal w/ a clear coat looks friggin' sweet... Just polish up really well, then "brush" it with a stiff wire wheel in 1 direction all over, then clear coat...

But that probably isn't your thing for this one. Sounds like you've got a nice project bike.

Liquid cooled bikes are still darned hot, but their engine blocks stay a little cooler than air-cooled, but the exhaust is about the same. Either way, your legs will still get warm in the summer if you're stopped at a red light!!

Vyndictive

iTrader: (28)

Well... I bought the bike with the tank just having been resealed. They never painted it so it was black primer...
The rest of the bike is a lighter "black cherry" (lets **** off some Shinka owners!) which is more maroon than anything and I hate it.

In the first pic is the bike as I bought it for 1500 bucks.

2nd pic is the bike now. I rode it all summer: put 3k miles on from 7/4 to now, which isn't bad since the riding season in Ohio ended in October.

I cleaned both air filters, cleaned the carbs, drained the tank, new spark plugs, seafoamed it, replaced front and rear brake pads, and removed all the painted surfaces which I may have a shop paint depending on the price.

The other problem is this... I bought it with a bad front fork seal: I wanted to ride it all summer so I didn't do anything to fix it. So it leaked fork oil and that oil blew right onto the exhaust pipe. Note in my list I have yet to fix the fork seals. So the pipes have some oil baked onto the chrome surface also... which is another motivation to get these painted and back to looking good. But hey, I have to live with my short sighted decisions.

The other problem is that the exhaust sounds like a sonic care tooth brush... which is fine if you're into calm electric hums. It just needs to be changed. So I thought about pulling off the entire exhaust system, cutting off the mufflers, welding on straight pipes and then painting it all black.
The cutting and welding I can do, painting... well, I'm what people call "retarded" when it comes to paint.

Silver06

Vyndictive.

A CORRECTION on my earlier post.

When I wrote "powdercoated" above, I meant to say "Ceramic Coated". RX-8 Frontier is absolutely correct when he states the limitation of regular powdercoat vs. heat.


I think the bike would look good with flat black pipes. Look into Jet Hot. Their coatings are recommended up to 1,700 deg. F.


Oh, by the way. Fix the fork seals. Please. A buddy came off on the highway due to a wobble made much worse by no dampening fluid in one fork leg.

Cheers.

Vyndictive

iTrader: (28)

Thanks for all the tips... I will let you guys know what I come up with after I see prices on paint, etc. You're right though... first step should be fixing what is mechanically wrong before I worry about cosmetic nonsense.

I've got the new fork seals... I'm just reading the shop manual to figure how exactly to this properly. Never messed with fork oil or anything like this before - trying to increase my chances of doing it right the first time.

its a project for this weekend along with removing the exhaust.

Toxic

Cured powder will not "drip off", don't know where you got that bit of info. If overheated it will burn and flake off, similar to paint.

There are high temp powders available, they are good up to 1200 deg F or so. Regular powders will handle over 400 deg F-cure temp- with no problems. I did a set of calipers for a guy and his car burnt to the ground (and the garage and part off the house around it) and the calipers are still shiny. I am anxiously awaiting pics so I have proof.

I would recommend ceramic coating though over high temp powder. I have found the powder to be a bit soft and the ceramic to be able to take more punishment. It will cost more yes, but will be better in the long run for you.