9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

Nice work, thanks for sharing.

Eric_RX

Great job man. Hope mine ends up looking just as clean.

tylerdurden

Looking forward to driving impressions.

Tai-Stik

The apparent quality of the v8roadsters kit and this thread are most promising. I have some questions that you may be able to answer, to which I'm very thankful for as I know you're not representing v8roadsters, but any insight would be very helpful!

- Is it possible to maintain or add TC?
- Is it possible to maintain or add ABS?
- Is it possible to maintain or add Power Steering?
- Will you be able to maintain air conditioning? (I believe you intend to)
- Will you be able to maintain cruise control?
- Where will you place the battery?
- Will all the dash lights be connected appropriately and not show errors?
- Can OBD2 be connected for smog?
- What is the approximate cost of the parts you have invested in thus far?
- Do you have a prediction as to when the kit will be generally available?

Thank you!

Stubbs

iTrader: (1)

Right now I'm eliminating Traction Control(DSC) and ABS for simplicity. I plan to add ABS back at some point but it needs a bit more development. DSC will be more difficult due to it's complexity.

The electric power steering has been eliminated. I am using a hydraulic rack powered by a CTS-V pump.

With summer temps of over 110F Air Conditioning is not an option in Texas so I will be retaining it, it's going to be a little more complicated since the factory AC was controlled in part by the Mazda ECU.

I plan to add cruise control but it is the very last item on my checklist.

The Battery will be going in the trunk

I'm using an off the shelf GM E38 ECU and I'm using HP tuners to set up the ECU to pass Texas emissions.

I haven't added up the total cost on this project yet but safe to say I'm over the 25K mark at present with a few thousand more to go. I elected to use a lot of new parts (engine, accessories, harness, rear end, etc.) that drove the budget way up. With some smart shopping and luck you could save a ton of money.

I can't speak for V8R on when the kit will be available.
My best guess will be within the next 6 months, but that is my opinion only.

Arca_ex

iTrader: (10)

I'm totally in for one of those Ford 8.8 diff mount kits when they are available. Will be a great option for anyone with a motor swap and making good power. Plus the endless (and dirt cheap) ring and pinion options, and LSD options are awesome with that diff.

Looking forward to more progress.

SnS-Skunkworx

Stubbs: I have a great deal of interest in this module you speak of.

I am currently working with my Dad & brother who are code monkeys/software developers to develop a module for my '05 RX8 swap. (Though progress has been painfully slow as both of my Duramax truck's have had an appetite for head gaskets in the past year which is $6k+ a pop)

From what I am seeing in your post, it appears this module is just a basic gateway? That seems to be a very simple way to go about this, the electronics really are not complicated, it just seems that few guys with experience in coding & hacking have worked with the swap.

We have figured out how to make the gauges all function normal, including the check engine light, and was pretty damn easy actually. We worked with Arduino first but it is a pretty primitive language according to my brother and he decided to use RaspberryPi as he could manipulate more with it.

Could you possibly offer up some more information on this module? We are currently at a stand still as my car is being moved this weekend to a new place for me to tinker with it, but we are hoping to dive head first back into it very soon.

Is it just a gateway?
How is it making the ABS function? (Just gateway to convert signals)
Is it Arduino based?
Is it purely CANbus based or is it also spoofing certain PCM functions?

Very interested! It seems over the past year or so, the RX8 swapping has made leaps and bounds of progress in regards to understanding of the electronics.

Ive been following the company "CANbus Triple" who seem to have started with Mazda 3's and are now on KickStarter though they disappeared for a while as I tried to hunt them down and beg for a module to play with.

Stubbs

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like you've made some pretty good progress on your module. Unfortunately I can't speak to the specifics of the module as I don't currently have it in hand, and I don't know anything about coding. Your best bet is to contact V8 Roadsters and discuss it with them since they will have a better understanding of the specifics.

Stubbs

iTrader: (1)

Took a gamble on a set of Hinson RX8 swap headers fitting and ending up losing. They are gorgeous headers made by stainless works and I'm sure they fit the Hinson kit perfectly but the way V8R does their motor mounts make them incompatible. I'm pretty disappointed but that's the way it goes. I'll likely be putting my set up for sale soon. After doing some crude measuring on some pictures and I think the Speedway 1 7/8" might fit. I ordered a set so we will see.





I decided to replace the stock fuel line with braided -6 teflon lines. I ended up using an ATL bulkhead fitting to connect to the factory pump.





I'm going back and forth on adding Flex Fuel capability, it looks to be fairly easy with the E38 ecu. I just need to add a pin at the ecu connector, plumb a flex fuel sensor into the fuel line and enable and tune the flex maps in HPtuners. I've got a 255lph pump but I'm not sure the stock LS3 42# injectors are sufficient for E85. The L99 (flex fuel truck 6.2) looks like it uses ~50# or 54# injectors.

I've pulled the engine back out to finish cleaning up the engine bay, and cutting a hole in the firewall for the engine harness.
I've got the Ford 8.8 back from the shop I had rebuilding it so now I can re-install the rear subframe and put the rear suspension back together.

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

Nice progress.

WaitingforFI

iTrader: (1)

Looks good. GLWB

zendrums

iTrader: (2)

I don't think they'll fit if you're talking the straight-up tight-fit block huggers they sell. Long story short, I went down there to buy my radiator, mounting eqpt, exhaust kit, and headers (I live ~40 minutes away from Lincoln, NE). I was lucky enough to meet a guy that works there that's a member on the norotors forum that has a 5.3 swapped RX-8 that he did with the Hinson kit (they actually completed a kit!). He assured me there was no way in hell that their exhaust headers would fit given that the collector is nearly centered. I ended up picking up some exhaust manifolds from a 2011 Camaro, and they fit like a boss.





If they end up fitting, let me know. I was also looking at some Sanderson headers for when airflow actually becomes a problem :/

Honestly, my biggest problem with this swap so far has been that my suspension components++ are F'd and I'm not willing to do anything about it. Last I talked with you, I was about to swap my diff. Well, all of the lateral links were rusted in place so bad at the wheel, I ended up disconnecting them from the subframe and swinging the wheel enough to remove the axel. Then I dropped the diff while leaving the other axel in place cause currently, it's so crazy rusted seized in there that my car started shaking. I've heated it multiple times with a torch from both sides of the wheel, beat it (with a nut + block of wood) so hard that the car started shaking, and sprayed the _hell_ out of it with PB Blaster. My front wheels are still attached to my front subframe cause I can't get the adjustment bolts out of the lower control arms. I tried to press the bolts out and ended up just smashing the friggen bolt down. I then proceeded to beat it so hard that you could hear the cracks from my sledge echoing for blocks. I'm going to have to cut and drill those bolts, hoping I don't damage the control arms. I called the Mazda dealer by my place (Woodhouse Mazda, for those of you in the area), and their service tech told me they've never replaced the control arms cause they always quote people a new set. They told me that the RX-8s just get crazy rusted and seized...

/rant

Build is looking good. I'm mostly interested in the wiring. I'm planning 2x ECUs to get my cluster working, but next year (hah, assuming I get this thing done) I'm going to take my time setting up a standalone and running boost. Problem is, I don't have the time or patience to come up with a solution :/ My engine and trans is totally squared away, diff is ready to hang, and then a few more things I have to take care of before I give up and pay someone to wire it for me lol

Sorry for any thread-jacking <_< ... >_> Best of luck, Sub'd

Stubbs

iTrader: (1)

I'm bought these headers : Speed Engineering LS1 Camaro Amp Firebird Longtube Headers 1 7 8 034 Race Version | eBay
They are Speed Engineering not Speedway like I thought. I'm comfortable hacking up this set if I need to rather than the Hinson set.

I've got a set of the exhaust manifolds you've got that came with my crate engine. They fit just fine, but I really want to run a set of 1 7/8" headers. I'm betting I'm going to have to go semi-custom to do it though.

I'm running just the GM ECM for mine. I'm looking into digital dashes as a possible alternative to the CANBUS module just to explore all my options.

Best of luck on your suspension woes, frozen bolts are a major pain. Heat and Aerokroil help a lot.

INANE

I'm in Papillion, would love to see this when it's complete.

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

Man you really need a flickr or photobucket account,

zendrums

iTrader: (2)

You can stop by anytime if you want to take a peek at where it's at now, just shoot me a PM.

Me? I think I just need to go back to lurking

I8yourv8

Subd! Did I mention, im jealous!

Perryrace

Stubbs

Keep the updates coming. I am also in the process of building an LS RX8. I have built several V8 Miatas and wanted to try something different. I am building a dedicated track car which will make the wiring etc much easier. I have a dry sump LS6 and stage 3 T56 with Ford 8.8 that will be going in the car. The full cage is almost complete and our friend in FL (TN) will be sending parts soon. Looking forward to seeing your build progress and hope to learn the gotchas before I hit them.

The long tube headers will soon be a big issue for me as well please let us know what you find.

Mark

RockLobster

I've just started a very similar build. Going through V8 Roadsters for most everything also. (not usurping your thread) Just a question. I'll probably PM you so we can exchange info from time to time.

What gear ratios do you have in the T56? I'm thinking of going with the wider set. I want to average 30mpg.

iizuka

Pretty classy build you have going on there Sir. Let me know when you decide to sell the Hinson headers, definitely interested.

WaitingforFI

iTrader: (1)

This video series is a someone installing a V8 in to a Mazadaspeed Miata with a V8 Roadster kit. This is part 3 of the series it starts to focus on the V8 Roadster kit jsut past the 10 minute mark:

Stubbs

iTrader: (1)

It's been a while since I've been able to work on the car, but I was able to do a little work on the APPS mount.
It's pretty ugly, and I'm not very proud of it but it'll work and it puts the pedal in the right spot.
It was a bit of a pain since Mazda doesn't like the idea of flat surfaces on the firewall.




After some testing I found that I could pass the GM harness through the firewall just left of the brake booster and mount the ECU in the empty space where the navigation display hood would be on a NAV equiped car.




I got the engine back in the car and took a bunch of measurements for my last attempt at find a set of off the shelf long tubes. I should know in a few weeks if I can find some, if not then I'll just run the set of LS3 manifolds I have until I can get a custom set made.


I got most of the GM harness run, and everything in the engine bay is routed properly I just need to secure it. Inside the cabin I need to secure the fuse/relay box, mount the OBD port and shorten and shield the APPS wiring. I had a bit more trouble that I anticipated getting the ECU connectors to my ECU mounting point. The connectors were a tight fit through the available hole. The first connector passed through without too much trouble but there wasn't enough room to pass the second connector through the hole with the wires from the first connector in the way. I had to trim a tab on the dash and dis-assemble the second connectors lock lever to get it though. There was plenty of room after that.






I got most of the rear end put back together, but had to delay when I found the rear trailing arm ball joints to be a little to loose for my liking. I've got a set on the way along with some other misc hardware I needed. The rest of the arms are in good shape so I installed a set of poly bushings and replaced the ball joint boots and repacked them with some Moly EP grease. I ended up running a set of Megan racing Toe arms as well. To try to maximize the life of the spherical bearing and minimize noise I got a set of rod end boots from Seals-it and packed them with Moly; I also repacked the ball joints.








I finally got the radiator and condenser sorted out, it's the biggest hurdle I had so far.
Looking back I definitely went overkill on the fans, I'd go with a smaller setup if I were to do it again. I ended up cutting a lot of the "firewall" out which made the hood latch pretty floppy. I added a simple brace and it stiffened it back up. I still have some finish work to make a lot of this stuff look nice, but the basics are there.





I've gotta sort out the battery/cables, fan wiring and misc electrical connections next.

Stubbs

iTrader: (1)

I'm using the GTO T56 paired with a 3.27 rear, that's the pair that V8R recommends. That nets ~1500 RPM @ 60 MPH and 1800 RPM @75 MPH
It should be good for 30MPG with the stock cam.

WaitingforFI

iTrader: (1)

That's looking good. Congrats and keep up the work. I can't wait to see the finished product.

Perryrace

Build looks great so far !!

Any update on the exhaust headers?

Mark