20b rx8
09-20-2014, 10:27 PM
#101
And yes, if that is the excessive low profile lower intake plenum with 6 injectors and have the 9 injectors total you will have more than enough fuel to the block. What kind of injectors did you purchase? I suggest you check the way the injectors sit as you might need to modify a bit this area. Fuel leaks are bad once you turn the key. On a side note I hope you have plenty of gas stations around as you will be visiting them more than you think haha Great build man
It's excessive but full height.
09-21-2014, 06:46 AM
#102
09-21-2014, 06:48 AM
#103
You should try a Ron Davis radiator all aluminum or Koyo n flow. I went with the Koyo n flow for my build. I made brackets to mount it and now I'm trying to get the best mounting position to keep the radiator, intercooler, and condenser stacked close together as I m keeping the ac for my build.after that I can run piping and make a custom belly tray or see if one already available fits my application...the Koyo n flow cools the coolant better by applying a double pass system and slowing down the coolant (enough time to cool it as much but still keeping enough being transferred to the block) allowing for better temperature coolant to reach the block. The research I did on other 20b applications applying this radiator have yielded great results plus the radiator itself is not in an outrageous price range. ;-)
09-24-2014, 04:56 AM
#107
So with this design, the three runners are pretty much equal length, which is suppose to be a good thing. Oil cooler arrived- ordered the mishimoto universal radiator, which will be here next week id say. Thinking bout stacking the oil cooler and w2a intercooler with ducting just in front of sway bar with the massive radiator north of the hood support and stacked with the AC condenser with just enough room for a large single fan.
Last edited by SiNfidelity; 09-24-2014 at 04:47 PM.
09-24-2014, 05:06 AM
#108
Measuring up the boot and undercarriage for lpg tank dimensions. Trying to get as big as possible without sacrificing ALL the boot space.
Trying to get hold of one of these too. Alloy and fairly conformable
Trying to get hold of one of these too. Alloy and fairly conformable
09-30-2014, 11:45 AM
#109
Been spending way too much time on my misses fd trying to fix her drivers door lock issues, grrrr!!
So nothing to report at mo, tho I did treat myself to some engine bay bling, took some time to track down the manufacturer of this discontinued limited edition brace, but worth it
So nothing to report at mo, tho I did treat myself to some engine bay bling, took some time to track down the manufacturer of this discontinued limited edition brace, but worth it
09-30-2014, 07:46 PM
#110
I thought about the mishimoto radiator but it is too wide. The distance between the frame rails in the engine bay is only like 28" so good luck with trying to fit it anywhere.
I'm looking at a Griffin NASCAR radiator, has AN inlet/outlet and can fit between the frame rails. It is also 3" thick. It's a monster.
I'm looking at a Griffin NASCAR radiator, has AN inlet/outlet and can fit between the frame rails. It is also 3" thick. It's a monster.
10-01-2014, 03:46 AM
#111
I thought about the mishimoto radiator but it is too wide. The distance between the frame rails in the engine bay is only like 28" so good luck with trying to fit it anywhere. I'm looking at a Griffin NASCAR radiator, has AN inlet/outlet and can fit between the frame rails. It is also 3" thick. It's a monster.
It's goin in front if the hood catch.
Last edited by SiNfidelity; 10-01-2014 at 03:49 AM.
10-01-2014, 03:51 AM
#112
This arrived!! Wow!! Nice bit of kit
Now I just waiting on the radiator, lpg tank, lpg ecu with injectors n convertor. Also a larger heat exchanger and a kick **** ewp for the intercooler
Now I just waiting on the radiator, lpg tank, lpg ecu with injectors n convertor. Also a larger heat exchanger and a kick **** ewp for the intercooler
10-03-2014, 07:40 PM
#113
Well as it turns out, the rad DOES fit in the bay.
This thing was packaged so well!!
Just gotta decide if ill put it up front like originally planned or in the bay. I'm thinking in between the crash bar to free up the space in bay as I think it'll be hard to position the ewp. The an20 fittings are rather large.
I knew that mishimotto box would come in handy- my lpg tank test model, checking for fitment.
This thing was packaged so well!!
Just gotta decide if ill put it up front like originally planned or in the bay. I'm thinking in between the crash bar to free up the space in bay as I think it'll be hard to position the ewp. The an20 fittings are rather large.
I knew that mishimotto box would come in handy- my lpg tank test model, checking for fitment.
10-04-2014, 12:44 AM
#114
What the heck? Can you take a measurement of how wide it is? Maybe the specs on their website are wrong because when I measured it looked like it wouldn't fit.
Looks like a pretty tight fit too, but just the right size to fit it in there.
I'll be doing a v-mount.
Looks like a pretty tight fit too, but just the right size to fit it in there.
I'll be doing a v-mount.
10-04-2014, 04:04 AM
#115
I'd say there specs are based on its widest point, which is not at the top. Ill measure it in next few days. I haven't tried to get a fitting on that top hole yet either. For me it's no good there cos of ewp.
10-11-2014, 11:24 PM
#117
So close I can taste the lpg.
I'm wAitin on lpg tank quote at the mo.
There's been a small development- I WILL be putting this in my street car now. May as well get my money's worth, it's costing a fortune!
So last week I removed the fuel tank, engine and subframe from my st car.
So now the race is on to prep the car before the tank arrives so I can keep on schedule.
I'm wAitin on lpg tank quote at the mo.
There's been a small development- I WILL be putting this in my street car now. May as well get my money's worth, it's costing a fortune!
So last week I removed the fuel tank, engine and subframe from my st car.
So now the race is on to prep the car before the tank arrives so I can keep on schedule.
10-14-2014, 06:18 PM
#118
I hand tightened the -20 to metric adaptors to the radiator and ummmm- couldn't get them out!!
I did get one out but the other is never coming out. I actually put the adaptor in the vice with the radiator still attached and tried turning the rad. No go. Unbelievable. Spent 40min trying back n forwards. I guess I shlda lubed the threads first but I was only test fitting the adaptor. It's def NOT cross threaded. It hand tightened no problem. Weird. Lesson learnt. Lube people LUBE
10-14-2014, 06:21 PM
#119
The attached fittings. And test fitting.
It's tight up in there but mainly due to the top fittings nut not sitting flush or parallel with chassis. I'll prob grind the one corner of the nut just a touch.
Need to fab support bars for bottom with rubber mounts.
It's tight up in there but mainly due to the top fittings nut not sitting flush or parallel with chassis. I'll prob grind the one corner of the nut just a touch.
Need to fab support bars for bottom with rubber mounts.
10-15-2014, 05:25 AM
#120
I had my first attempt at tig welding today. Gotta say I'm a bit embarrassed by my attempts. Tho I don't think I have all the settings correct on my welder, lol so let's blame that. Grrr
10-15-2014, 07:48 AM
#121
Driving my unreliable rx8
Ooh man, what size/grade rod are you running, what size tungston, what gas(c25), what does your tungston look like, what amps are you running, and polarity?
If you contaminate your tungston you have to fix it. That would be my first guess of your problem. Also you should clean the metal a bit better to start with.
You should be pushing the pool with the torch that way it preheats the rod and how much gad are you running theres a lot of perosity.
If you contaminate your tungston you have to fix it. That would be my first guess of your problem. Also you should clean the metal a bit better to start with.
You should be pushing the pool with the torch that way it preheats the rod and how much gad are you running theres a lot of perosity.
Last edited by logalinipoo; 10-15-2014 at 07:53 AM.
10-15-2014, 11:59 AM
#122
That sucks man I can't believe that fitting is hanging on for dear life..... Your option may be to heat the fitting and have another go at it... Just a suggestion.. Did you get the turbo manifold straightened out?
10-15-2014, 04:09 PM
#123
Still trying to decide on manifold design but I do have a mate who's great with the welder so should be close to being sorted.
10-15-2014, 04:19 PM
#124
Ooh man, what size/grade rod are you running, what size tungston, what gas(c25), what does your tungston look like, what amps are you running, and polarity? If you contaminate your tungston you have to fix it. That would be my first guess of your problem. Also you should clean the metal a bit better to start with. You should be pushing the pool with the torch that way it preheats the rod and how much gad are you running theres a lot of perosity.
Tungsten was perfect at start but I kept contaminating it. Had to grind it like 4 times.
Metal was shiny along the weld area to start but I somehow made it brown lol.
I followed some guides online regards to settings but it didn't seem to be welding very well so I kept turning amps and gas up but the truth is I'm clueless. Gonna need some YouTube tutorials.
Peak current and basic current ***** had me baffled.
I had peak set 80amp and basic at 50%
Gas started at 7lt per min but increased to 15.
Rods 1.6mm and tungsten is 2.4 I think.
10-15-2014, 05:42 PM
#125
Driving my unreliable rx8
Lol i know, if you contaminate the tungston then break off about 1/4" or so before regrinding to a fine point. Im pretty sure the gas was too high thats why you had the perosity.
If its just you fumbling it i can understand that. If its from the arc you should probably change the polarity.
The gas can make a big difference. Id have to loom it up but I'm pretty sure c25 is what you need for steel.
Im not sure about the peak or basic ***** but Current sounds about right 30-40 amps for thin stuff.
Are you actually using tig rod? It looks like theres some slag on the weld.
If its just you fumbling it i can understand that. If its from the arc you should probably change the polarity.
The gas can make a big difference. Id have to loom it up but I'm pretty sure c25 is what you need for steel.
Im not sure about the peak or basic ***** but Current sounds about right 30-40 amps for thin stuff.
Are you actually using tig rod? It looks like theres some slag on the weld.