Joker_andthe_thief

isnt there a company that make forged gears? racing beat?

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

You can buy a complete 5 speed box that will bolt straight up to what you ave done above for less than the cost of making gears !

SiNfidelity

Is the starter motor interchangeable between 5sp n 6sp?

Joker_andthe_thief

-thats good to know it wil fit my adaper and shaft! thanks maybe down the road I should change to a 5 speed, but i like the availability of the 6th and shortness of the tranny :/

-no idea lol im using the 1jz starter motor (well 2jz) starter motor but i dont see why not

Joker_andthe_thief

so the oil pan is now in the way... its hitting the K member and a 2jz rear sump is around $400....


...sooo because budget buid!
tracing oil pan

cut out and drilled 1/4" aluminium plate


and mounted


now the question is to make a stubby deep front sump or cut up the rear and make a shallow large sump hmmmmm

semrz1

Im using auto ecu. Honestly speaking, I wasnt impressed with the mechanic installation on my RX. The speedometer works fine but RPM meter doesnt work. My car had a speed cut at 172km/h, quite annoying. I installed Apexi RSM to solve the RPM, speed cut removed and callibrate speed correction. Add to pain, I had to replace the wiring from the alternator to fusebox. Two parallel fuse rating 60amp connected between the alternator and the fusebox for safety reason; dont want to burn down the fusebox. The wire cable melted due to overheat. After inspection, noticed the wire cable installed by the mechanic was a crap cheap wire, not suitable for high output current from the alternator. I had to do the above by myself.

Another thing I noticed the return fuel line after the fuel rail is not connected to the car return line. The engine return line was plugged off. I'm not sure this is acceptable or not. So far no probelm or leaking. Out of curiousity, did u connected the engine return fuel line to the car return line?

By the way, the jerking at low speed is gone after I took out for a slow spin around the neighborhood. Maybe the car was choking due to excessive fuel. Again, not certain.

Joker, out of curiosity, are u employing 1JZ-GTE or VVTi? Thanks

Joker_andthe_thief

I using the second generation 1JZ-GTE non-VVTi because it was only $1000 cash and look to be rebuilt. with cleaned or rebuilt turbos I was assured it came out of a rear wrecked soarer

semrz1

Joker,
For $1000 1JZ, thats quite cheap...:-)
You are one lucky man. By the way, I didnt get an answer on the return fuel line. Care to share. :-)
Thanks

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

There is no return on an RX8 :-)....

Joker_andthe_thief

Not that far I was going to run a 1/4" steel line along the fuel and brake lines to the tank and feed it in from the top, tap and thread

LSXREX

I used a -6 line from my filter/regulator to a bulkhead fitting on the fuel sender.

semrz1

Dannobre,
Yup, ur are right about non return fuel line in the RX8. Thats the reason I was investigating if anyone out there with a swap engine has made a return line to the fuel tank. Thanks for confirming. :-)

Joker,
I had a return line made to the fuel tank. An L-shaped pipe drilled ontop of the fuel pump cap, and applied a sealant to prevent leaking. The housing lock had to be unscrewed to take out the fuel pump cylinder set, and drilled the top set. New fuel pump gasket to replaced the old one before assembling back into the fuel pump back to the tank. This is the part where everything went wrong. After connecting the return line to the L-shape pipe, took the car for a spin. After parking the car, and let idle for sometime, start to smell fuel. I found fuel leaking upward from the housing lock. There was no leak fron the modified connection. Gave another notch to tighten the housing lock screw but didnt stop the leak. So, back to square one, plugged off the return line at the engine. Till now, I have not fixed the leaking probelm.
If u going to go the same route as what Ive done, make sure the gasket and housing lock screw in good shape. Please let me know if it went well for you.

semrz1

Bradah LSX,
Can u elobrate more on the setting? Im not sure exactly what u had done to the line. Maybe ur method can help my probelm. Thanks.

Joker_andthe_thief

Hmmm I would use a generous amount of blk rtv gasket

CRO8TIA

Youre suggesting using RTV to seal a fuel leak, surely you jest .

semrz1

Whats the downside using RTV to seal the housing lock screw? My limited understanding on RTV doesnt allow me to make pre-judgement. One thing I know is that RTV has a high temperature withstand to 200 deg C, if I recalled. Appreciate if u can share on the negative side using RTV so I wont go for this solution if possible. Thanks

LSXREX

I only said I would use a bulkhead fitting for my fuel return. It isn't pressurized so it isn't that vulnerable. It includes the gaskets but I would also put a bead of sealant as a contingency. I'm not sure what it's called but I use a white sealant on the fuel tanks on our aircraft that will do the job fine.

CRO8TIA

LSXREX, the sealant you use on aircraft fuel cells, is it the regular auto parts store sealant or a sealant designed specifically for fuel tank sealing such as SS-300 or Permatex 85420 .

LSXREX

I'm not 100% sure what's it's called. Just a two part sealant we use in our rubber fuel cells in our helos.

Joker_andthe_thief

The reason ice said rtv w/e blk gasket is from my experience its strong as hell, and it keeps all your sealed joints one color blk looks more professional than having black, orange, white seals, ect lol

kurorex

I just used one of these in the top of the tank(not on the pump assemble)

Self Sealing Fittings with a Push On Tail

didn't need any sealant at all.

Joker_andthe_thief

moving forward with fitment I have succumbed to buying a rear sump oil pan



this will relocate the SUMP (black steel half of the pan) to the rear side of the k member

PROBLEM motor needs to move "7" inches back to connect tranny to rear diff



SOLUTION 2jzge sc300 oil pan (not available in canada) moves the pan rear wards to clear the K


SIDE BY SIDE comparison to show the difference

LSXREX

I thought you opted for the stock trans so you dont have to fab aft of the flywheel? Will you be able to move 7"? I did a week of clearancing and fabrication for 1/2" back and 3/4" down.

CRO8TIA

I am a little confused, you plan to connect the transmission directly to the "rear" diff without the use of a tail shaft ? You have a front diff also ?

LSXREX

Wtf? Pretty safe to assume there will be a PPF and driveshaft between them. In the stock position the bellhousing is pretty deep in to the car. Too deep to clear the Toyota motor with significant firewall clearance. But that's just an assumption. I just figured he was using the stock trans for sake of fab simplification