temperature problem when drive 90mph
03-13-2013, 09:11 AM
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temperature problem when drive 90mph
Recently I drive my rx 8 to high way, and drive up to 90mph 4000rpm,
maybe after 5 mins the temperature light is come up, then i slow down the car drive 70mph was fine then the temperature light is gone.
I check the obd 2 but got nothing.....
asked some friend they said maybe water pump
the engine oil changed 2000miles ago, but the oil like a cream now.
something like steam in engine cap
is that my engine oil or coolant water not good enough?
or the coolant light up cause about the coolant tank?
also the MPG is very low now.... half tank of petrol only 80 miles in town
thanks
maybe after 5 mins the temperature light is come up, then i slow down the car drive 70mph was fine then the temperature light is gone.
I check the obd 2 but got nothing.....
asked some friend they said maybe water pump
the engine oil changed 2000miles ago, but the oil like a cream now.
something like steam in engine cap
is that my engine oil or coolant water not good enough?
or the coolant light up cause about the coolant tank?
also the MPG is very low now.... half tank of petrol only 80 miles in town
thanks
Last edited by tinsee; 03-13-2013 at 09:19 AM.
03-13-2013, 09:16 AM
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There is no temperature light.
If it's the coolant light, that is a low coolant level light. If you do not actually have low coolant, then the sensor in the bottle is failing, which is common on our cars. The sensor is molded into the coolant bottle, so you have to replace the whole bottle to replace the sensor.
If it's the coolant light, that is a low coolant level light. If you do not actually have low coolant, then the sensor in the bottle is failing, which is common on our cars. The sensor is molded into the coolant bottle, so you have to replace the whole bottle to replace the sensor.
03-14-2013, 09:16 PM
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There is no temperature light.
If it's the coolant light, that is a low coolant level light. If you do not actually have low coolant, then the sensor in the bottle is failing, which is common on our cars. The sensor is molded into the coolant bottle, so you have to replace the whole bottle to replace the sensor.
If it's the coolant light, that is a low coolant level light. If you do not actually have low coolant, then the sensor in the bottle is failing, which is common on our cars. The sensor is molded into the coolant bottle, so you have to replace the whole bottle to replace the sensor.
Is that also mean I still can drive, coz coolant system and engine is fine,
just error aboutthe sensor, so I don't have to replace the bottle immediately?
Thanks for your advice
03-14-2013, 09:20 PM
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or maybe the engine oil problem?
what oil are you using?
how about the steam in engine cap?
Thanks you!
03-14-2013, 09:23 PM
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Yes, if your coolant level is fine and it's just the sensor then you can technically ignore the problem. However you are voluntarily removing a safety mechanism. You will need to manually check your coolant on a regular basis. Running too low on coolant and/or overheating on the engines is DEADLY to the engine. The danger point is before your temperature needle even starts moving.
I would highly recommend replacing the bottle. $135 from Mazmart with cap plus shipping.
Yes, milky coloration / foam / milkshake / white crap / etc... in the oil on the dipstick is normal for rotaries. It gets burned off when driving.
I would highly recommend replacing the bottle. $135 from Mazmart with cap plus shipping.
Yes, milky coloration / foam / milkshake / white crap / etc... in the oil on the dipstick is normal for rotaries. It gets burned off when driving.
03-16-2013, 08:11 PM
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Yes, if your coolant level is fine and it's just the sensor then you can technically ignore the problem. However you are voluntarily removing a safety mechanism. You will need to manually check your coolant on a regular basis. Running too low on coolant and/or overheating on the engines is DEADLY to the engine. The danger point is before your temperature needle even starts moving.
I would highly recommend replacing the bottle. $135 from Mazmart with cap plus shipping.
Yes, milky coloration / foam / milkshake / white crap / etc... in the oil on the dipstick is normal for rotaries. It gets burned off when driving.
I would highly recommend replacing the bottle. $135 from Mazmart with cap plus shipping.
Yes, milky coloration / foam / milkshake / white crap / etc... in the oil on the dipstick is normal for rotaries. It gets burned off when driving.
can I ask you when you turn off your engine, how many rmp to go up and burn the rest of petrol in the engine?
03-16-2013, 08:42 PM
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03-16-2013, 09:00 PM
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If that is the case then here: https://www.rx8club.com/rx-8-discuss...t-here-202454/
How do I shut off an RX-8?
This somewhat ridiculous question keeps popping up recently. Other than the obvious "turn the key counter clockwise and remove", there is literally nothing special that you have to do. You will find people that insist that I am wrong in making this statement, but no, it is just that they are taking one symptom and extrapolating preventative measures even further off base than they already were. For example, you will find people that swear by reving the engine to 4,000rpm in neutral and cutting the key out there, with the revs up. They are doing this under the assumption that the faster spinning rotors will help sweep excess fuel out of the rotor housing, to prevent a flood. The problem with this idea is already explained in the Flooding section above. If your engine is already warm, there is no excess fuel being dumped in! (Except perhaps the fuel needed to rev to 4,000rpm). Shutting it off at 4,000rpm is no different in terms of fuel than shutting it off at 750rpm. If your engine is currently cold, then this could only POSSIBLY have an impact if your ignition or starter or battery is failing, in which case 'yes', it might help prevent a flood. But a flood is a symptom of another issue anyway, and only happens on START, not on SHUTDOWN.
This somewhat ridiculous question keeps popping up recently. Other than the obvious "turn the key counter clockwise and remove", there is literally nothing special that you have to do. You will find people that insist that I am wrong in making this statement, but no, it is just that they are taking one symptom and extrapolating preventative measures even further off base than they already were. For example, you will find people that swear by reving the engine to 4,000rpm in neutral and cutting the key out there, with the revs up. They are doing this under the assumption that the faster spinning rotors will help sweep excess fuel out of the rotor housing, to prevent a flood. The problem with this idea is already explained in the Flooding section above. If your engine is already warm, there is no excess fuel being dumped in! (Except perhaps the fuel needed to rev to 4,000rpm). Shutting it off at 4,000rpm is no different in terms of fuel than shutting it off at 750rpm. If your engine is currently cold, then this could only POSSIBLY have an impact if your ignition or starter or battery is failing, in which case 'yes', it might help prevent a flood. But a flood is a symptom of another issue anyway, and only happens on START, not on SHUTDOWN.
03-25-2013, 01:51 PM
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Tinsee, just to clarify, are you concerned about the milky condensation on the dipstick, or when you drop your oil ( drain it ) is all of the oil like cream ?
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