Sorta lengthy, but worth reading if you are doing your own oil changes:


OK.....my car has been overdue for an oil change already in my opinion (2300 miles), so I bought the stuff today and started in on it tonight.

I got the car jacked up, slid underneath with my oil pan and wrench, removed the drain plug, and started to let the oil drain. On my RX-7 I always punctured an air hole in the top of the oil filter to help the old oil drain from the filter before removing it, so I did that. It helps minimize the amount of oil that spills all over the side of the engine. Thanks Mazda for locating the filter in such a spill-free spot on these rotaries!! ***sarcasm***:mad:

Now the "fun" begins. First of all, because of the perfect location of the filter (sarcasm again) I could not even get my oil filter wrench or my hand in a spot to get any leverage on the thing to twist it off. I don't have a little tiny Japanese hand to reach back into the 1" area of clearance around where the filter resides. After taking my watch and wedding ring off because they kept snagging on everything, I could finally fit my arm under a couple of vacuum lines and an A/C refrigerant hose to get a good grip on the filter with my hand. WHAT THE HELL DID THEY TORQUE THIS FILTER AT IN THE FACTORY???? That mo-fo was cranked down tight! I twisted it as hard as I could, knuckles bleeding and hands half burnt up from the hot under-hood components I had to touch, and I could not get that filter to budge. I had heard of others driving a screwdriver through a overtightened oil filter before to get it cracked loose, so that's what I had to do. I got a long screwdriver and popped it through the filter. I was finally able to get it loose. The thing was all mangled to hell when I finally pulled it out from under the hood. I would have posted a pic of it, but I was too embarassed about what I had to do to get it off.

I get the new oil filter on, and replaced the drain plug. I dump in 5 quarts of oil. My RX-7 usually takes about 5 1/2 quarts, so I had another quart on standby to use after checking the level with the dipstick.....which is also a bitch to read by the way. I clean off the stick, shove it in, pull it out, and the oil level is about an inch and a half above the full mark!!!:confused: I get the manual out, which I admit I should have done first, and find that it only takes 3.7 quarts with a filter change. SHIT!!! I had to loosen the drain plug and drain out what seemed to be about a quart and a half to get it down to the full mark. I cannot believe that this engine only takes about 3.5 quarts of oil. WTF???

Anyway.....that oil change was the most complicated oil change I have ever done due to an overtightened filter that could not be reached, and my ignorance of not reading the manual to find out what the capacity was first. I just assumed that since it was a 13B rotary that the oil capacity would be about the same as my 7.

You do-it-yourselfer's be forewarned about this stuff before you try to tackle what we all know to usually be a 10 minute job. Took me about an hour when it was all said and done.

Like I said on another thread.. Mazda has hired the strongest man (started an anabolic steroid cycle at age 5 and has never come off) in Japan with a Kung-Fu Grip. He stands by the assembly line with the sole purpose of tightening oil filters. He uses an oil filter wrench that has a 6 foot pipe on it to get that extra leverage.


Oh yeah, trussvillemazda.com has the oil filter wrench that you'll need for then next time.

I think I would rather pay my dealer $16 to do all that at my 1000 miles unscheduled service (most scheduled oil changes are free). I know they have done an oil change on their demo car so they won't be learning on mine..

I had mine changed at 2500mi by the dealer and was worried the moment they got in my car. The "mechanic" couldn't get my car in reverse to pull it into the bay. I instructed him on how it was done. He then proceded to stall my car twice before reaching his destination about 150 ft away. He missed a lift point when jacking up the car (not a real big deal, but it looked like it could have bent the underside if positioned a little worse. They, too, had such issues pulling off the filter. They used a good size wrench to break it loose.

Even at 2500 mi, the oil looked pretty dirty. I wonder why? Maybe it was my imagination.

Originally posted by rxtreme
I had mine changed at 2500mi by the dealer and was worried the moment they got in my car. The "mechanic" couldn't get my car in reverse to pull it into the bay. I instructed him on how it was done. He then proceded to stall my car twice before reaching his destination about 150 ft away. He missed a lift point when jacking up the car (not a real big deal, but it looked like it could have bent the underside if positioned a little worse. They, too, had such issues pulling off the filter. They used a good size wrench to break it loose.

This is EXACTLY why I would just prefer to do it myself. It is usually simple (tonight was not the norm), and takes all of about 10-15 minutes.....plus I can do it when I want it done and don't have to mess around waiting on it at the dealership.....which by the way has horrible hours. My dealership service clowns work from 7am-6pm Monday through Friday. How convenient for me to go there for service when I work full time 8am-5pm Monday through Friday.

I just don't trust anybody working on my car. Shoot....your "mechanic" could not even DRIVE the car, let alone work on it.

Two things:

1) The oil system takes more than 3.5 quarts, it's just that only 3.5 quarts will drain for an oil change; the rest remains in the oil coolers. (As I noted before, this means that you're really only changing about half the oil on each oil change. :()

2) The filter issue is why the owner's manual recommends having your dealer change the filter; it intimates they have a special tool to make the filter removal/replacement procedure easier (or each dealer is required to have one mechanic with small hands. :D)

Page 8-11 of the owners manual states:Changing oil filter

Because you need a special tool to retighten the filter, an Authorized Mazda Dealer should do the work.With the free maintenance program, this becomes even more of a no brainer... :p

I don't have the manual with me, but isn't the scheduled changes at something like 5k mi.? To me, that's waiting too long. I know some of you will argue otherwise, but I like mine changed at 3k mi., just to be safe. I would be willing to change my oil in between scheduled changes (at the dealership) because now I'll be getting it done for free.

How much residual oil is left in the coolers and such after drain? Is it really about half the total capacity? That doesn't sound right in any way, shape, or form.

Originally posted by rxtreme
I don't have the manual with me, but isn't the scheduled changes at something like 5k mi.? To me, that's waiting too long. I know some of you will argue otherwise, but I like mine changed at 3k mi., just to be safe. I would be willing to change my oil in between scheduled changes (at the dealership) because now I'll be getting it done for free. Under the Free Scheduled Maintenance package Mazda is offering us, I believe we will be able to have the oil changed as often as we like. We will, however, only receive a specific number of oil changes (probably 10 -- scheduled at 5000 miles for the 50,000 mile warranty period).

So, if you change your oil every 2000 miles, you will only get free scheduled maintenance for the first 20,000 miles; or about a year and a half for most of us.

Doesn't sound so good now, does it?

So, if you change your oil every 2000 miles, you will only get free scheduled maintenance for the first 20,000 miles; or about a year and a half for most of us.

Doesn't sound so good now, does it?


Actually, it does. What I will do is meet them half way and change my oil at every 2500 miles. Meaning I will pay for one oil change every 5000 miles. This works to my advantage in two ways:

1) I would have changed oil every 3k mi without the free service, so I can get 40% more miles (and savings) than I would have before.

2) With more frequent oil changes (2500 vs 3000 or even 5000mi) I am ensuring the longevity of the engine. Especially considering only half the used oil is actually changed.

To the original poster - of the countless 2nd gens I've worked on, built engines for, etc. I've ALWAYS put 4 quarts of oil in on an oil change. Checking the dipstick, it's just a little below full - perfect.

On the oil filter tightness, REAL easy explanation there.

Have you ever put an oil filter on an engine that wasn't in the car? You VERY likely will overtighten it. I've done it a number of times when prepping engines for install, even making sure to tighten it "just right" - next time it's a bitch to get the filter off.

Pushing the engine that far back in the engine bay required them to get creative with the oil filter placement. That's why they made a special tool to ease installation and removal. They could have done a remote oil filter, but that would have added plumbing, which means more points of failure and more cost for little benefit.

Also, the FIRST thing to do on an oil change is break the oil filter loose. If the filter is too tight, you still have a driveable car to go get a tool or something with. I always break it loose, then punch a hole in the top to help the filter drain.

Dale

the oil filter is tight because if it falls off its bad, and it does happen

mike

Originally posted by 91vert
Anyway.....that oil change was the most complicated oil change I have ever done due to an overtightened filter that could not be reached, and my ignorance of not reading the manual to find out what the capacity was first. I just assumed that since it was a 13B rotary that the oil capacity would be about the same as my 7.

You do-it-yourselfer's be forewarned about this stuff before you try to tackle what we all know to usually be a 10 minute job. Took me about an hour when it was all said and done.

the first oil change is best left to the dealer or a reputable dedicated oil change service if for no other reason but that oil filter is on tight. you deserve a cold one for you efforts.

Originally posted by RX-GR8


the first oil change is best left to the dealer or a reputable dedicated oil change service if for no other reason but that oil filter is on tight. you deserve a cold one for you efforts.

The only person I trust to work on my car is me. Why? Because dealers are out to make money. For example, you go in for a new set of brake pads and you come out with a new caliper and two new rotors while the old ones were in perfect working order.

An oil change service, no thank you. Those guys don't know a muffler from an A/C compressor. I've heard horror stories of people going in for a simple oil change and the tech forgets to tighten the drain plug, or event something so simple as adding oil.

Another reason for DIY is price. Take the brake pad service for example. My GF was quoted by the dealer ~ $350 to change the pads and rotate the tires on her Mazda Tribute. I bought the OEM pads for $60 and did the same job in about an hour. Difference being $290 and not having to waste my time at the dealer. The water pump on my friends 98 Cavailer went south and the dealer quoted him > $500 to replace it. I bought a new pump at napa for $21 and he helped me change it. Next time he needs a new pump, he'll know how to change it himself. He gained the experience and over $480 in about 1 1/2 hours. Don't be afraid of try to do something you've never done. Most if this type of work is just loosen and tighten nuts.

AMEN Superfan!!

Nobody touches my car unless it is absolutely something I cannot do myself.

If I had my own wheel balancing and alignment equipment, life would be good.

Every car I own (except the 8) has nicks and dings in all of the rims from the careless idiots at the tire shops I've been to.

I'm dreading the day that I have to take the 8 in for a wheel balancing. The idiots will probably remove the big "string" of wheel weights opposite of the tire pressure sensors and never be able to get the wheels balanced again.

Originally posted by rxtreme
Even at 2500 mi, the oil looked pretty dirty. I wonder why? Maybe it was my imagination.

This sounds unusual. Rotary engines are known for not creating contaminents in the oil.

Crankcase blowby doesn't contaminate the oil in a rotary the same way as in a piston engine because the pressure level remains relatively constant.

If you could get a close look next time, look closely at the colour and contaminent levels, and please keep us posted.

What would people's opinion be of changing the oil in between services WITHOUT swapping the filter... I mean, stuff trapped in the filter isn't likley to get out or block the filter, so having fresh oil without changing the filter is better than not having fresh oil... surely.

The filter will be changed at scheduled services anyway, and it should be more than capable of operating for 5-6000 miles without trouble... especially concidering that many "other" cars go twice that long between changes...

Comments?

I was about to ask the same. For instance, say you change your oil every 2500 miles(you alternate between you and the dealer), would it be alright to use that same filter even if you change the oil? I looked at the oil filter today, no freaking way I'm going to be able to turn something that hard with such little space...

Since oil changes in a rotary (As I understand it) are typically more frequent due to the oil being contaminated with fuel, not combustion byproduct, carbon etc... then the filter should not be an issue... at least that's the way I see it... I'm sure somone else will be able to comment.

If you could get a close look next time, look closely at the colour and contaminent levels, and please keep us posted.

The dipstick was still clean, but the oil draining into the pan just seemed dirty (dark in color). I didn't get all that close, so it may have been my imagination. I'm changing the oil again at 5k miles (maybe myself if Mazda doesn't hurry up with my letter)....now only if I can decide to use regular dino or the synthetic stuff as the debate continues as to whether synth. is or is not a good idea for the rotary.

Changed mine today @2,500 mi. Thanks for your comments about
the tightness of the factory filter. I bought a filter cap at the local
Autozone to allow removeal of the filter with a ratchet. Sure glad I bought it as the filter felt like it had been installed with an impact. My oil also looked very dark for only having 2,500 miles.
BTW my oil level before oil change was at 1/4 down from full on the dipstick. Pretty low oil consumption.

Wow - I thought you guys were kidding about the service tech potentially screwing up an oil change, but it almost happened to me!

Took the car in at just over 1000 miles for an oil change (ended up being free) and verified with salesguy who booked me in that they use Castrol GTX 5W-20. In the showroom noticed that the Tribute and Mazda6 both had their hoods up and both have oil-filler caps saying 5W-20 as well. Whilst waiting around I thought I might as well see the underneath of the car whilst it was having the oil drained (very pretty). Spoke to the service kid and asked if he had worked on an RX-8 before - apparently he has done an oil-change on two already. Then saw him pick up a 10W-30 container and go to my car. I stopped him and said the manual states 5W-20, as does the oil-cap. He said they always use 10W-30, and went and got his supervisor. The supervisor said that they always use 10W-30 due to the heat in Houston. I said I would prefer what the manual, the quick help booklet and the oil-cap states. So they hunted around and filled my RX-8 with about 4 quarts of 5W-20 (Mazda label on the containers - I assume that is rebadged Castrol as the service bay had Castrol banners everywhere). Spoke to the salesguy later and he was shocked - he said all new Mazda models require 5W-20 oil and he had no idea the service department was using anything else.

My question is: was the service person right in saying that 10W-30 is better in hot climates like Houston, or was I right in going with the manual's recommendations?

Originally posted by pelucidor
My question is: was the service person right in saying that 10W-30 is better in hot climates like Houston, or was I right in going with the manual's recommendations?

The 10w30 weight use to be a recommended oil for the older rotaries, not sure about the Renesis.

There should also be recommended weights to use depending on the climate and what kind of driving u do, usually located in the owners manual.

For more info on oils for rotary engines GO HERE (http://members.ij.net/mrmazda/cfaqmenu.html#ENGINEOIL)

Originally posted by Evolv


For more info on oils for rotary engines GO HERE (http://members.ij.net/mrmazda/cfaqmenu.html#ENGINEOIL)

great link, we could do with a sticky for this kind of info.

thanks Evolv

Always go with the manual's recommendation, at least while in warranty. My wife's Sequoia requires a front and rear differential fluid change every 5000 miles. The dealer was adamant that this wasn't necessary. (I have to admire the fact that they weren't just trying to make a buck.) We got Toyota on the phone, who confirmed that if the recommended schedule and fluids weren't used, we would be SOL if we had a problem which normally wouldn't be covered by warranty. I would suggest doing what MazdaUSA recommends.

I had one of the "Oil Change Expert" franchises change the oil in my Eclipse a couple years ago. They drained the transmission and filled the oil. I left the store and the transmission starting slipping later that day. Brought it back the next day and they were very apologetic...very. I also got 4 new tires at cost and installed for free. I had it on record that they messed up just in case.

Changed the oil & filter myself over the weekend - took all of 30 minutes. Bought a oil wrench & 5W-20 oil at Wally World. Didn't even have to get under the car, as I was able to loosen the drain pan nut from the passenger side.

Put in 4 quarts, with 2000 miles on odometer. The oil was more black in color than new oil, however it was not as opaque like I get when changing oil in my small-block Chevy V-8's.

Before changing oil, the RX-8's dipstick has not shown any oil consumption.

I see that a few of you folks have made comments about changing oil at 2500 or 3000 miles ... and also commenting about the color of the oil.

The changing color of the oil just shows that the oil is doing its job. You can't make a case for added contaminants in the oil just because it looks dirty. Changing your oil at 3000 miles is just putting more money in the pockets of the oil company exec's.

I will be doing my first oil change at 3,700 miles and then at the recommended 7,500 miles thereafter.

Originally posted by rxeightr
Changed the oil & filter myself over the weekend - took all of 30 minutes. Bought a oil wrench & 5W-20 oil at Wally World. Didn't even have to get under the car, as I was able to loosen the drain pan nut from the passenger side.

Thanks for that tip. I just did the same thing this evening. I turned the wheels all the way to left to facilitate reaching the drain plug. I also used one of those giant cookie sheets (;)) - what a brilliant idea. Anyway, I've found that for the factory-installed filters, even the cap-style filter wrench will slip and not loosen the filter one bit. The fix for this is Saran Wrap. Get a 4-inch piece or so, and fold it in half lengthwise. Wrap this snugly around the end of the filter and wrench as usual. It still slips, but loosens the filter very effectively.

Here are my tools of the trade:

Yo,

Originally posted by 91vert
AMEN Superfan!!

Nobody touches my car unless it is absolutely something I cannot do myself.

If I had my own wheel balancing and alignment equipment, life would be good.

Every car I own (except the 8) has nicks and dings in all of the rims from the careless idiots at the tire shops I've been to.

I'm dreading the day that I have to take the 8 in for a wheel balancing. The idiots will probably remove the big "string" of wheel weights opposite of the tire pressure sensors and never be able to get the wheels balanced again.

I can't tell you the horror stories I've had with "Tire Monkeys." Lifting the car wrong, bad balance, scratched rims. All of that.

I'm dreading when I can finally get some nice forged Volk Racing rims and have to take it to some tire monkey that will f*ck them up.

"Those are $400 EACH you moron!"

Oy.

Kevin
1989 GTUs "Smog and Tires...my nemesis."

OMG.. I can't believe I will have to go through the pain I had with my 02 MPV.

Lucky that I now have that "special" tool, which I twisted the original oil filter into an odd shape when I took it out.

Btw, the screwdriver thingie didn't work on the MPV. My crazy clamp-like oil wrench did the work pretty good after stripping a cap-style filter wrench.

Took me almost 2 hours and 2 trips to the auto store to do my 1st oil change on the minivan. I don't even want to mention how messy that was!

what is the sran wrap for

to keep the slightly oversized filter wrench from slipping, while trying to break the filter loose.

oh

. . . and speaking of oil changes, is it ever necessary (or possible) to drain 'used' oil from the oil coolers? During the entire 'life' of my car, will oil 'changes' always consist of draining 3.5 quarts from the total oil capacity and then adding fresh oil to that oil that remains in the coolers? Will my engine NEVER experience a complete refill with fresh oil?

I took the 8 in for an oil change Saturday. It held 4.2 quarts of oil not the 3.7 quarts of oil stated in the manual. I stood next to the Mazda technician and watched him the whole time. It took them about 1 hour to do it. The technician thought he was never going to remove the oil filter. I wanted Mazda oil but had to settle for Pennzoil 5W20.

The car looks very nice and areodynamic from the bottom side.:)

It held 4.2 quarts of oil not the 3.7 quarts of oil stated in the manual.

Mine took a full 4 quarts to get the dipstick back to the full mark.

Interesting thread. Here's my take on a few issues:

=========

"the oil filter is tight because if it falls off its bad, and it does happen"

I don't think so. Oil filters should be put on hand tight and and next time they are removed can be removed by hand. Other than addressing someone elses handiwork - I have NEVER needed an oil filter wrench. If you need one then it was on too tight in the first place.

My personal rule of thumb is to spin it on until the seal seats and then turn it by hand about a 1/2 turn or so.

=========

This business about poking holes in the top of the oil filter to let it drain into rotaries is probably the biggest myth I've ever heard of w/ respect to rotaries. It's been around for decades now. The oil is NOT held in the filter by a vacuum and poking a hole does nothing.

All I can say is drain the oil and then while it is draining take the filter off. Wrap wrags around it's base. Depending on filter design you can let it sit for quite a while and it may help. Giving it half a spin and letting it sit a while may also help. But the bottom line is that, depending on filter design, it's just plain messy and poking a hole is something that should be submitted to Discovery Channel's Mythbusters. :)

=========

"Since oil changes in a rotary (As I understand it) are typically more frequent due to the oil being contaminated with fuel, not combustion byproduct, carbon etc... then the filter should not be an issue... at least that's the way I see it... I'm sure somone else will be able to comment."

Indeed. Just what is blow-by then if it's not burned fuel and where does this non-blow-by fuel come from in the oil if it doesn't come from blowby?

=========

"(Mazda label on the containers - I assume that is rebadged Castrol as the service bay had Castrol banners everywhere)."

I bet Mazda wishes they exerted that kind of control over their stealerships. Truth is that any relation between castrol and Mazda labeled oil products is purely coincidental. Your dealer buys Castrol from a local distributor at wholesale. And it's a lot cheaper than their wholesale cost on Mazda labeled fluids I bet! Your dealership is owned by someone who probably owns various dealers around town for various makes. Dollars to donuts says that every one of those dealers probably have the same Castrol banners.




=========

"Always go with the manual's recommendation, at least while in warranty."

Yep.

I know this is small comfort but if the 'stealer' uses the wrong oil to save a buck for themselves or whatever - you have a receipt showing they changed it in the event of a warranty claim especially if the claim were denied because the engine was found to have the wrong oil. Save your receipts if you have it done and if you do it yourself save the receipts for both the oil and filter you purchased.


=========

Kurt Bob:
"I see that a few of you folks have made comments about changing oil at 2500 or 3000 miles ... and also commenting about the color of the oil.
The changing color of the oil just shows that the oil is doing its job. You can't make a case for added contaminants in the oil just because it looks dirty. Changing your oil at 3000 miles is just putting more money in the pockets of the oil company exec's.
I will be doing my first oil change at 3,700 miles and then at the recommended 7,500 miles thereafter."

Kurt Bob! You da man!!! Bingo on all your comments.

I'll also add that in some cases (I don't know about Mazda) the factory fill is a special break-in oil and it should be left in for precisely the full amount of time the manual states. Changing it prematurely may not allow some engines to fully or correclty wear in. I don't know at all whether that is the case in the Renesis but that it has been true sometimes in the past for some makers. Food for thought or further research/discussion.

I'd rather be safe than sorry
I changed my oil at 3k and will continue to do so every 3k

Originally posted by pgtr

This business about poking holes in the top of the oil filter to let it drain into rotaries is probably the biggest myth I've ever heard of w/ respect to rotaries. It's been around for decades now. The oil is NOT held in the filter by a vacuum and poking a hole does nothing.


If this is the case, then why did I hear a nice steady trickle of oil start flowing into my oilpan about 2 seconds after I did this? Before I poked the hole it was done draining and just dripping occasionally. As soon as I poked the hole about another 1/4 cup of oil drained out.

Probably because you didn't have the radio turned up loud enough.

But the funny thing is I've heard that very same sound and I didn't even have to poke the mythical hole. If there's a vacuum how come I can hear that sound too?

But if you REALLY believe there is a vacuum holding the oil in place - you could fill up the filter and invert it over (preferrably not over anything important) and prove the vacuum theory right? :)

Like I said this is an urban legend firmly entrenched in rotary-dom - it's not likely me or anyone else will likely debunk it but then nobody seems willing ot invert a full oil filter over their prize collection of whatever... :) If the hole makes you feel better and your convinced it's releasing this purproted vacuum - it's no big deal.

------------------

For those that are new to rotaries and understand how a vacuum does and does not work, when changing oil/filter I suggest removing the drain plug and letting it set a good while. After a bit turn the filter maybe a 1/2 turn or so but not to the point that it leaks at it's seal. Let it set a bit longer and wrap a couple old rags carefully around it's base. Then spin it off and upright it ASAP. After a few tries you'll find you don't make much of a mess at all.

The amount of oil mess you end up w/ does tend to vary based on the brand and type of filter. On the old 12As and 13Bs there was a tall stack filter and short stack filter. The newer filter books list the short stack but the taller one is still available (same price) and on the shelves. I can no longer remember which ones but either the tall or short one tended to drain better and some brands are better drainer than others. I don't know what the filter # is for the new Renesis or if you have many options yet for brands. (if anybody does have a part # post a fram# - many people hate this brand but it is the standard for cross references at least!)

Good luck!

Still not sure about the hole-poking deal on the RX8, but I know it helps make oil spillage non-existent on 1st and 2nd gen. RX7s. (even shown as part of the procedure in the owner's manual)

Perhaps the angled filter on the RX8 drains as well (or as poorly)without poking a hole in it?

Keep in mind:

The procedure in the owners manual is for changing the filter ONLY and does not presume the filler cap or drain plug have been removed and are currently open when the filter is being removed.

---

While on the subject does anybody know the 'correct' design for a vintage or Renesis rotary oil filter?

Do they spec an anti-drainback valve?

Do they spec the inside tube to be solid to the top or perforated?

Do they spec a location (top?) for the bypass valve?

It's been quite a while since I've dabbled in these things and am going by memory... :)

thanks,

I'll give another angle on poking a hole in the filter. My '79 Ferrari has the filter mounted on top of the engine, spill side down. Even better, if you spill a bunch of oil, it goes straight down the side of the block and into the air hole in the transmission. Not a good thing.

Anyway, when the hole poking thing came up on the DIY email list, they had three things to say

1) Poking a hole in it will likely throw some metal shards into your filter and into the oil. (which then drains through your oil system). Probably not a great idea for the longevity of your engine
2) If you can't get the dang filter off (see first poster), you can't very well get the car to someone who can.
3) So, the technique they all use is to run the car out on the street and get the oil nice and hot, bring it back to the garage, then turn it off, open the plug, and let it sit for an hour or two. They get enough drainage that way to minimize the amount that comes out of the filter (though you still need to pack rags all around the base of the filter).

Take it for what it's worth.

FYI, the Filter wrench is an F-size - it actually has two stacked fittings on it - the inner fitting is what fits the RX-8. At Pep Boys, there is one with Model number A255 at the top of the package.

The oil filter is tight from the factory mostly because they are put on dry. All mfgs do it this way. That's why it is important to lube the gasket before installation.

YMMV

-Michael

:p

I don't know what's the deal with hard oil changes.

Yes, the first oil change is harder and requires the oil filter wrench (with a rachet, not the handle type). Most shops will over tighten your filter so use up your free maintainance first and don't go back and force.

With oil just put 3.5 qt in, read the dip stick and add more if needed. put some in the filter to soak the elements.

get an ramp for $20 if you need the clearence. It's the easiest way to get under the car. don't use scissor jacks, it's not safe and will kill you when it collapses.

after the first change, your oil change should only take 15-20 min plus some clean up time. don't forget to recycle.

buy a case of oil that's on sale for $.79 at kragen or something. don't pay by quart - it'll save you 1/2 the cost on oil.

get the oem filter, it's one of the best. never use a filter without a anti drain back valve.

Originally posted by djantlive
I don't know what's the deal with hard oil changes...<snip> Most shops will over tighten your filter

But that's the whole point - neither the factory nor the shops seem to know how to properly install a filter. But your point is well taken - either let shops do it or do it yourself - but intermixing the two as sometimes problematic I guess.

With oil just put 3.5 qt in, read the dip stick and add more if needed. put some in the filter to soak the elements.

Probably more like 4 qt no? At least after the filter is filled up and retains some oil via it's anti-drainback valve. It's an INVERTED filter arrangement as are all rotaries - it's not so simple to just fill it and install it like on a Chevy 350. After lubing the seal you either install it dry or try and coax some oil down past the anti-drainback valve though few people bother to do this. Does the owners manual speak to this operation? The purpose of pre-filling any oil filter is not to soak the element per se but to reduce the initial brief dry-start condition.


get an ramp for $20 if you need the clearence. It's the easiest way to get under the car. don't use scissor jacks, it's not safe and will kill you when it collapses.

I STRONGLY agree on those safety points! Some cars are thoughtfully laid out as to changing the oil w/ ease and lack of mess and minimize or reduce the need to jack. I doubt the Rx8 is one but we will see.

One problem w/ many modenr sportier cars is low front overhang that may 'hit' many ramps - may want to verify this if you go the ramp route - or just use a good floor jack w/ jack stands. There are options for low angle ramps if it's needed.

You simply can't be too safe when it comes to raising a car.

buy a case of oil that's on sale for $.79 at kragen or something. don't pay by quart - it'll save you 1/2 the cost on oil.

get the oem filter, it's one of the best. never use a filter without a anti drain back valve.

I'll add to ensure that you should check that the house brand oils are API certified. W/ regular oil change schedules any oil w/ current API service designations are just fine.

I want to say that the filters sold thru the dealers are not the same as those installed by the factory in Japan. Further in many cases of Japanese car dealers they are the same as many sold in stores under common brands. There are only a handfull of major filter makers in the US and I have looked at them and been very impressed by each w/ the notable exceptoin of Fram. I've racked up 100s of 1000s of miles on rotaries w/ filters from Purolator, CHampion Labs and Wix/Dana and even a decade or more ago even those glued together cardboard jobs painted orange. :) ACDelco and Motorcrafts are fine too though many are made by Champ Labs. The PSI bypass settings for Wix and Purolator seems to always be correct and I have little doubt CHamp Labs wouldn't be as well presuming such a device is spec'd.

As far as most rotaries including the Rx8 goes I'm think the anti-drainback IS spec'd (makes sense w/ an inverted filter) BUT that's not true of all cars. But even so it never hurts to have it. To simplify manufacturing these daysI think virtually all modern oil filtes come w/ them whehter they are needed or not. I rarely see a filter w/o one and when I do it's just a holdover and intended for cars not needing such a device. At least not in the brands I use.

thanks,

What type of oil did you use, dino or synth?

I had a similar experience trying to get the filter off of my old RSX type S. It was at the rear of the engine right next to the down pipe of the exhaust manifold. Basicly it took a monkey wrench and a 10" C-clamp to get that bastard off and it dripped oil all over the CV joint and subframe!:mad:

As long as I let the dealer perform the oil changes and services I have free tires for life! With a tread wear rating of 160 I plan on going thru a ton of tires! The deal comes complete with a road hazard warranty so I basicly pay for nada. just put in the gas, wash it and insure it and I have nothing left to worry about!

have a quick question. what if you were to over fill with the oil like the post starter did? would it cause damage? why can the oil compartment thingy hold more oil then it should? i dont get it.

Here's some pointers I posted from my first RX8 oil change that may help, regarding eliminating the mess, getting the filter off, and getting more dirty oil out (5+qts instead of 3.x).

http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=21910

I had my first oil change done at a dealer because of what I read on this forum (1000 mi.). When I commented to the factory rep on how dirty the oil looked he told me it was because of the grease :eek: :confused: put in the motor to protect it for long shipping time.

I had my first oil change done at a dealer because of what I read on this forum (1000 mi.). When I commented to the factory rep on how dirty the oil looked he told me it was because of the grease :eek: :confused: put in the motor to protect it for long shipping time.

Reason #743 to avoid taking your beloved '8 to a dealer.

I had my oil changed at the dealer and thought I was overcharged for 5 quarts of oil because I read the manual and knew it takes 3.7, when I checked the oil 1500 miles later it was still above the full mark. So I did't get overcharged for the oil, I just got overcharged for less than professional service. I'm going to do all the work I can myself. I have found in many situations it is hard to get good service. Anyway the overfilled oil didn't seem to hurt anything.