Alright, as some of you already know I recently installed my T618Z, with an untuned e-manage. Anyway, whenever I drive and drop the car into neutral it stalls out.... basically the rpms instead of stopping at 1k, it just hits 0. It idles fine, and when I slow down the car in gear it's fine.. my vac is good, and I'm almost certain there is no vacuum leak. I have my wastegate hose running into a fitting on the intercooler pipe, about a 3/4 ft away from the turbo. Any ideas?

i would probably start by getting it tuned.

my car did the same thing... then i bought the interceptor, no more stalling.

my car did the same thing... then i bought the interceptor, no more stalling.

So it's the tuning? Weird considering the stock map isn't THAT bad.

get the interceptor and your stalling problem will go away

czech your BOV and check again for vacuum leaks

and ditch the emanage

I don't have a BOV, or money for the Interceptor. :(

czech your BOV and check again for vacuum leaks

and ditch the emanage

Czech lol, how'd you know. jk.

I don't have a BOV, or money for the Interceptor. :(until you get the money, get used to keeping your car in gear, or constantly revving lightly when in neutral.

-hS

until you get the money, get used to keeping your car in gear, or constantly revving lightly when in neutral.

-hS

So this is normal with the e-manage? Well that's kind of a relief.. would you happen to know if Tims map fixes this issue? Thanks for your help btw :]

you need either BOV or interceptor to fix the issue.

i say get a BOV and tighten the bolt. that should fix it for sure. you really should've left some cushion (at least $500) aside when you decided to install the turbo kit. tuning, frequent oil changes, tires, spark plugs, little things can really add up.

i have no leaks, and experienced the exact same thing along with everyone else i know. either change your driving habit (just downshift instead of cruising to a stopsign) or get a bov.

Well, I have enough for a bov + welding.. so I guess I'll have the shop install one tomorrow. How's the Greddy Type-S?

Well, I have enough for a bov + welding.. so I guess I'll have the shop install one tomorrow. How's the Greddy Type-S?

i have the RS and like it alot. get one that would give you an option to put a recirculation valve later if you like to go that route in the future. nice to have options, no? hks doesn't have any thread for recir valve. some whistles, some are quieter than others, some shine, some look like a huge piece of donkey dung, etc. etc.

one advise is... make sure your welder welds the bov in a way that will allow you to put a stock air box back on. like i said before... it's always nice to have options... especially if you live in california where cops love to pull you over, pop the hood, and question anything that looks polished or anodized.

No, this is not normal for the eManage, nor is it caused by the eManage. It CANT be. C'mon people! Don't you pay attention *at all*?? This is really disappointing.... bordering on rediculous...

The emanage has NOTHING to do with either spark or fuel if you aren't under boost. Therefore, stalling out when in neutral has NOTHING to do with the eManage either.

If you had installed an AFR gage, then you'd probably see that the stock PCM is adding a lot of fuel to account for the air that has already passed the MAF. If you close off the flow by lifting off the throttle, the PCM is trying to account for a whole lotta air that doesn't enter the combustion process. The process gets too rich and stalls. My guess is that you are running too rich in the first place


RX8 + TURBO - AFR GAGE = BLOWN RENESIS

How much did you pay for your RS?

I had the emanage installed prior to installing the turbo, for about a day or two. Don't remember it stalling on me than.

Again, proof that its not some eManage voodoo that causing you to stall. The cause, and therefore the solution, should be obvious.

I did the same thing before installing my compressor. Its a good idea to go one step at a time, verifying before you proceed. But, because you didn't have the compressor installed, you never went into boost. Therefore, all the air that went past the MAF did indeed go into the combustion process right when the PCM expected it to.

TUNING is what is solving this issue. Its neither caused nor solved by ones choice of EMS.

Install the $200 LC1 from Innovate. Tune your engine. You're running too rich in boost.

uh,
vacum leak. loose connector.

beers :beer:

uh,
vacum leak. loose connector.

beers :beer:

Aparantly not since I had the performance shop check it out, no leak.

Actually, Maddog, the E-manage can control fuel at idle. I don't know what the stock Greddy map looks like cus I wiped its ass outta there as soon as I could. But, I know from just messing with ur map, and adjusting sum of the sposts where I was getting sum serious bogs to like 9.8, I messed with the scale also. I don't know what Bart's vaccume readings are, but if u set lets say 4% more fuel at -50 kpa, which is about the boost pressure readings I'm assuming he would have at idle, the Emanage would add 4% more fuel there, thus potentially causing it to bog down from richness. I know from doing realtime tunings while driving around and idleing it does take effect immediately. I richened up my idle cus the map I used w/ the severed injector trick was running way lean at idle for my tastes at like 16 to 1. Now, I usually get about 13.8 when idleing from changing the scale and adding like 2% more fuel at 800 rpms or what have you. So, in a round about way, the emanage can control fuel at idle, and since the 8 has a drive by wire throttle body,those, like myself that are having sum stalling or rough idle issues are kind of in a bind. If it was an older throttle body I'd sya just take a screw driver and allow for sum more airflow at idle by adjusting the throttle body. But, I purchased an Interceptor a few days ago. Hopefully it arrives within the next 2 weeks!! Also Bart, if u go w/ the BOV try recircing it. It would require another welding job on the intake, but at least it would not freak out the Air Flow Meter's readings of the air it registers, so perhaps that could solve ur stalling issue right there. Once again, I don't know what the stock greddy map looks like, so what I just went on about could be totally irrelevant in this case :).

No, this is not normal for the eManage, nor is it caused by the eManage. It CANT be. C'mon people! Don't you pay attention *at all*?? This is really disappointing.... bordering on rediculous...

The emanage has NOTHING to do with either spark or fuel if you aren't under boost. Therefore, stalling out when in neutral has NOTHING to do with the eManage either.
TUNING is what is solving this issue. Its neither caused nor solved by ones choice of EMS.If the emanage, does not affect idle or when off-boost, how can tuning the emanage solve his problem of stalling at idle?

My car had the same physical setup when i was with emanage, and with interceptor.
With emanage - constant stalling issues.
With Interceptor - no stalling.

Like you said, change one thing at a time. I changed the EMS, problem solved.

-hS

I'm definitly robbing a bank and pulling the rest of the money out of my ass to get my hands on the Interceptor, my car runs like shit right now. At this point I'm concluding to run tims 390cc map until I get the my AEM wideband, a BOV and soon after the Interceptor. As far as that goes, does Scott have downloadable maps already pre-programed? Is the default map good enough for a jump in psi?

the default maps is safe for more boost, but if you really want to unleash its full potential i recommend having it professionally tuned for your specific car.

This is what we were talking about when you were buying your turbo. The 3k for the kit is just the beginning. Welcome

-hS

BigO, I totally agree with u. Check out what I said about the E-manage right above ur post. My car stalled several times today, and it had not done so in many weeks. No matter what I do to adjust my idle w/ thesupport tool, it feels right now at 13.8 is still not good enough. Any other way and it's worse, being either too rich or too lean. I really don't enjoy driving w/ the Emanage, and I would like to just hold off until the interceptor... But I'm not that patient.

The GReddy temp dongle kicks the car into open loop when you go into BOOST. This is the only (moderately) safe way to adjust the fueling. If you f*ck with the injectors while the PCM is still trying to adjust them in closed loop (i.e. in vacuum, at idle) then the PCM is immediately going to fight you and try to get things back the way it wants and expects them to be. You should not try to adjust things when the PCM is in closed loop. Anything you do will be quickly undone.

Farva, the reason you were idleing so lean is probably due to the LTFT of the PCM. If you had a bad (rich) tune, the PCM would adjust the LTFT and try to remove fuel, making your idle too lean. You could have verified this with a scan tool. I constantly monitor my trims just to see whats going on. But, I tuned my map for my car, so the PCM doesn't think anything is out of whack. LTFT~=-4%

The injector pulses are not pretty when the eManage and the PCM are fighting. It looks awful. There's actually no telling what the injector is actually doing when they're both trying to control the injectors. That's one reason the severed injector trick works. Blindly adjusting the vacuum portions of the map is a bad idea. You'll see that none of Jeff's or my maps have any adjustment in the vacuum regions - except to duplicate the PCM operation of the P2s when you sever them.

BigO, my point is that the eManage only affects the idle indirectly, it cannot affect it directly - if you don't try to use it outside of boost, which you shouldn't. If your tune sucks, then the PCM will react by changing the LTFT. This will affect idle, since the P1's are used at idle and are still under the control of the PCM. Again, the stalling has nothing to do with which piece of hardware you use. Its the tuning either way. The IntX probably comes with a better tune, and is not susceptible to the fuel trims that accompany a poor tune on the eManage. BigO, do you even have a WB02? I know that Bart! doesn't. If you expect any EMS to be a true plug and play,without any tuning, then you're probably in for some surprises.

Ok, so maybe u can help me out here Tim. When I loaded ur map, and I know the injectors from the factory vary like 15% so one tune w/ E-manage is not a universal tune, what should I do about idle then?? Not adjust it at all? Cus like I said, it was idleing lean. Now I have it at 13.8 or so, given it does vary sum. Should I just let the PCM and the P1's do what they would normally do and don't mess with it in closed loop at idle? Would I risk it trying to go way lean once again??

Ok, so I went ahead and took away all of the fuel I had added. The car idles smoother now, it's just strange b/c it still seems lean to me. I guess it's doing whatever it likes to do, so as long as it's a smoother idle it's cool. JW Maddog, what's ur afr at idle?

When idleing in closed loop its very near stoich. There's nothing wrong with lean idle. Its only when making serious power (under boost) that you need to worry about it. For example, with the IntX some people are leaning cruise to AFR near 16-17 to improve mileage.

I know, but I have a prob w/ the A/C on. I feel like maybe since it's lean and when the A/C kicks on it's just too much of a load. The car won't typically stall w/ the A/C on, but just a noticeably rougher idle. Any1 else w/ the E-manage have any issues w/ the A/C?

Hell, you didn't have issues with rough idle when you were *stock*?

LOL. A little, but to be honest I dont have a good enough recolection to compare. I was stock way back in the day!

Hey guys. Ive just got done turbocharging my 8 and am having the same problems. I have designed a kit similar to the ptp kit see in the last issue of car and driver. i know the kit is good and everything is hooked up properly. Im running a 50 trim t3/t4 turbo with a 38mm wastegate (spring controlled at 4-5 psi) and a rfl bov (open). no boost controller, no fuel upgrades, no emanage... nothing else. and ive placed the mas on the intake side of the turbo rather than the pressure side (similar to the greddy setup).

the problem is that the car seems to idle just fine... almost stock even, however as soon as i try to drive it, it will stall out on me. even if i clutch from as low as 2k rpm. its really annoying cause i literally cant drive the car around town.

i have checked everything i can think of for leaks and such and everything is fine and dandy. im thining its all a tuning issue, and that i really need an emange. however i would have figured that with low boost and not any heavy driving i would of at least been able to drive the car around.

Anyway im in need of a solution from someone that has experience and not just theories. Even teh local tuning shops wont take a look at it for me cause tey dont have enough experience with the 8's. its really frustrating me cause i know the kit is designed well... it has to be something electronic thats just no agreeing with my kit. I just dont have any idea what.

Any help would be great.

Thanks,
chris

you should just start your own thread.. You'd probably get more help that way.
any followups btw?

Holy shit man, you need some type of fuel control! That may not be your immediate problem, but you're asking for trouble if you're boosting with the stock rx8 AFR's.

Holy shit man, .....

+1

Sounds like a leak, though. Got and AFR gage? I'd bet rich conditions cause it to stall.

well im not actually boostin anything at the moment. i havent driven the car really with the turbo on. i mean i have taken it down the driveway and such (about 400ft.) but i havent boosted it or anything like that. im not in a hurry to ruin my motor. lol

im just wondering what would cause it to stall out like that. i couldnt see it running rich as i havent touched the fuel system. i was thinking it was way too lean to stall out from fuel.

i was thinking it could be the blow off valve. but it isnt building boost or anything so how would that effect it? as long as it stays closed it isnt venting the needed air to prevent it from stalling right? i dunno. im lost at this point... i just need a good tuner to strap in an emanage and make everything work.

chris

If you have a leak after the MAF, then there will be too much fuel for the air actually reaching the combustion process. This is a pretty common problem for folks that have a leaky BOV.