Hi all,
I am very close to buying a 06 Special Edition (I'm in love with it in fact!).
Problem is dealer only has 2 (he claims all dealers only get 1 or 2 special editions and no more), so he doesn't seem to want to offer me and sort of incentive.
MSRP is 42K. The 2 he has in the showroom have all-weather tires.

Obviously for starters I'd prefer performance tires. A full set of winter rims would be nice too ha ha
Can anyone help me in terms of haggling for a better price with some freebies ? :confused:

Any advice would be greatly appreciated, I have zero experience with this haggling lark.

Thanks.

whats special edition

ohh got it .. canada eh?

dude its all the same .. and they want to sell even if it has that special stripe

haggling .. easiest way .. take someone to buy it for you .. someone whos down to earth and doesnt get derailed by dealer bs and his/her own emotions

go in a mon or tue night 20-40 mins before closing .. and offer them your price .. say invoice price .. and be done with it .. once they smell a kill theyll stay and since its close time the mgr will get involved and push it through one way or another

end of month is also a good time

Thanks.

So if I go in an say "I'll give you invoice price (i.e. MSRP - 3 to 5%)", I should be able to take it from there and end up with a good deal?

<!~~ works for a dealership... your best option walk in and tell them you know what you want, you want to get the car for 500 over invoice. No smart dealer is going to sell the car for Invoice. The dealership is going to make its money, if you go to 500 thats there profit espically with holdback and everthing else they make, and the sales person still makes enough to make it worth there time. Or, if you have other Mazda dealerships in your area, get on line and see who will give you the best price and then take that to the store and ask them to beat it by 100 bucks and youll be set

Simple rules of haggling. (in addition to above)
Always be prepared to leave.
Know what is a fair price - You can ask around or buy the information on line.
Always be prepared to leave.
Don't get emotional about the car until you own it.
Always be prepared to leave. There is always another deal.
Believe that they NEED to sell you a car and belive that you do not NEED to buy from them.
Always be prepared to leave.
Don't believe the "I'm your buddy" crap the dealers love to use on us.
Always be prepared to leave.
Good luck.

Thanks for the great advice.

Does anyone know the invoice price for the 2006 models?

I know BlueFenzy posted his invoice in earlier threads, but that was for a 2004...have invoice proces gone up much since?

Like DarkBrew may have mentioned, "be prepared to leave!" Don't get emotional about the purchase and act as if you don't need to buy the car from them. Going in with a firm offer and being ready to leave if they try to swindle you definitely works. I also believe in the going in before closing and at the end of the month. Although sometimes the new month may bring in better lease/finance rates (or worse!). If you're paying cash, you'll definitely have a little more haggling power.

Just my 0.02 (or a little more!)

Yeah, do your research, deside on a price, walk in and tell them whats what. If they dont like it, run. Stealerships are the home of the devil.

Also fun is to go all the way through the paperwork (including financing), until they give you that paper that says that there is a $300 admin fee. Tell them "no dice" and walk out. The look on their faces is priceless. Invariably, the sales man will run after you, smooth your feathers and tell you everything will be ok and that they will knock off $300 from your previously agreed upon price.

Pretend you are interested in buying some cheaper cars at the lot, don't even look at the 8 but make sure you move close enough to it. The sales man might try to sway you in buying the more expensive 8, that's when you ask all the silly questions like how much the displacement is, only 2 doors, etc basically bashing the 8. If the salesman fell for it, he will start saying how great the damn thing is, maybe give you a test drive. That's when you say "I'm not too sure, its pricey", haggling begins...

Or do it like I do, go to dealer, pay everything straight and drive off.

Thanks...all good advice there.

Another question though....does the fact that I will more than likely end up leasing the car seriously weaken my position to haggle? Or should all the haggling be out of the way before the leasing Vs financing Vs Cash conversation even occurs? What if the dealer asks from the get-go "are you going to lease or purchase?"....surely then my position will be weakened?

Keep the info coming....great forum :worship:

Thanks...all good advice there.

Another question though....does the fact that I will more than likely end up leasing the car seriously weaken my position to haggle? Or should all the haggling be out of the way before the leasing Vs financing Vs Cash conversation even occurs? What if the dealer asks from the get-go "are you going to lease or purchase?"....surely then my position will be weakened?

Keep the info coming....great forum :worship:


No!...but negotiate the price of the car and then the terms of the lease. Do this separately. Don’t even talk about how you are paying for the car until you come to a price first.

Hmm. Some thoughts:

1. Be prepared to leave. Can't stress that enough. If they don't treat you well or give you the time of day, walk out. Another thought: if a particular dealership doesn't seem interested in your business, don't give it to them. The ones that don't say hi to me, ask me if I need anything, or ask me I'm looking for don't get my time of day or my money.

2. Compartmentalize the deal. Haggle on the price. Get that nailed down. Then haggle on the trade-in (if you've got one); they often try to suck the price and the trade-in together, since they know you might want to get rid of your old ride - but resist! Then get the financing terms down. They don't have much leverage with the banks for financing rates, (maybe 0.5%, at most) but it can't hurt to ask. If they try to pull any of the three together when dickering over price, then just say: "Well, let's just see what the best you can offer me on the price before we get to that step."

3. Know your products. Be more knowledgable than the salesperson; you don't have to know more than the service manager or the head tech, but at least know more about the car than the salesperson.

4. Don't fall for the: "Uh, I'll have to ask my manager." Think: "Yeah, you do that." And let them do their little dance. The sales team shouldn't let you walk out the door when the gap is less than 1K on an RX-8. My rule of thumb: everyone has 2.5% wiggle on MSRP under $50K. Keep squeezing them - they want to make the most out of you, you want to pay the least amount of money.

5. Be prepared to leave.

Some of us can't just plunk down MSRP, and in fact, most of us can't. And you shouldn't!

Yea! I'm so proud of GoesLikeStink for being a noob that actually searched!!!

As to the invoice price, I actually just spoke to the fellow that sold the car to me on Thursday while getting an oil change ... among other thigns, I asked him straight up if the invoice went up. He told me that it's more or less the same. So the prices we were getting in 2004 are still valid now.

Keep in mind that once the GST goes down to 6%, you'll be saving some cash!

The other fellows pretty much summed up the rules of engagement. The only thing I'd have to add is that the Shinka is only limited to 2 per dealership, so it seems to be in short supply --> leading desperados who are too emotional over it to say "OK OK I'll take it for MSRP". Don't fall into this trap. You ever consider just a "regular" 8 so that this factor won't deplete the stock before you get a great price?

Don't feel guilty about going to other dealerships and saying "Joe, from XYZ dealership is giving this price and throwing in ABC ... BUT I'd really prefer to buy from you because you're such a great guy, awesome service, cool tie, etc". Then turn around and go to Joe at XYZ dealership and say "Bob from PQR dealership is giving this price, etc ... "

Like Darkbrew said ... make them NEED to sell to you.

oh another thing .. buy over the phone .. my thing with walking in 20 mins before close time works well .. but over the phone works just as well and is completely stress free

tell him you drove it .. you want it .. and you want a good price .. and you can pick it up on another day .. offer him cc deposit to lock the deal if he can get you a good price .. well obviously you need to know your price .. so when he meets it .. say fax me the paperwork (bill of sale) and ill give you a dep right now ... and pick it up later

pros -
no wasted time - do it at work - no waiting for mgr trips
no brainwashing and braindamage
preserve your IQ - salesman's explanations of features and specs can actually make you dumber
faxed paper for you to review for a long time .. since youre not there yet to sign it
unsinged credit card deposit - back out at any time (they just wanna know if youre really ready to buy - this shows enough, though its not really a valid transaction .. well at least its disputable and they only push so far .. so dont worry about loosing your deposit if you dont like somehting later)
no wasted time for prep work - car's ready when you get there - youre out in 30min guaranteed - including the this is your left blinker lecture

and if you're really want to master it .. get a job at a dealer .. heh

gl buddy

Yea! I'm so proud of GoesLikeStink for being a noob that actually searched!!!


Ha ha...thanks BlueFrenzy...in all honesty I was browsing and searching on this forum for about 30 hours over the space of the last week (including the whole day today at work I'm quite proud to say)....awesome amount of information to be had here, if as you say, the search function is used ;)

Seriously, thanks to everyone that replied some great advice there, I feel pretty confident now.

The dealer near me (I live within the GTA) still has the two Shinkas in stock so I hope they stay there for another while, as I might not be in a position to buy for another couple of weeks...fingers crossed anyway. And yes I have considered the non-shinka 2006 too, but the second I saw one and sat in one I knew it would be my first preference. But having said that I really love the black, and ti grey too.

I'll let you all know how I get on when the time comes.

Sorry to resurrect an older thread but I'd started the process of visiting the dealers in the GTA at last for my 2006 SE that I've been dreaming about.

First dealer I went to, I won't name names, armed with the knowledge from this forum, literally the first thing I am asked when I walk in the door is "How did you want to pay for it, cash, finance or lease?".

Am I wrong to think that the first thing to do is agree on a price before we start discussing how I'm going to pay for it?

Again any help or advice would be much appreicated.

NO! Don't tell them how you are going to pay until you worked out a deal( unless you are paying all Cash.. then I think they can actually go lower ont he price) I think sometime they ask that question just to see if you are a serious buyer. Usually if you tell them you are going to finance they might use it as their bargaining tool ( more BS) like " but you will have 2.9% financing which comparing to the other blah will save you thousands"

I just bought my RX8 Special Edition little over a month ago and you CAN get the price knock off and I cannot stress like everyone else how important it is to walk away, they will do everything in their power to make you buy the car in the same day because they know once you walk you will most likely never be back ( cause you will go to another dealer and tell them " I was at blah blah mazda and they offered me this... can you beat it")

Another important thing is know the invoice price of the car, because they will also feed a bunch of BS like " we are not making money with ~ 1500 off ( invoice ~ 3300 below) or this is like a mazdaspeed6 we know it will sell so we cant go lower than 500 etc etc..... When i was negociating for mine... the salesman bought me to his manager ( after i walked out) and the manager gave me a "final" price of 800 below MSRP and "allow" me to buy tinted window+ 3m at cost hahahah. he then fed me a bunch of BS like "I'm the manager, i know how much the car cost, the salesman doesnt.... you won't find a better price out there.. If other salesmen offer you a lower price its either they made a mistake or trying to pull a fast one on you... " blah blah blah".. so I decided to WALK again.

long story short they chased me back and I got a price much lower :D guess they can make money afterall

long story short they chased me back and I got a price much lower :D guess they can make money afterall


Thanks for the information....I know for a fact that is going to prove extremly helpful!!
:)

After having done my homework: End of the month, late in the day. Courteously let them go through their song and dance. Then give them your best and final offer (fair, given said research; polite but firm): "If you can meet $xxk then I'll buy right now."
Be prepared to leave, but likely you won't have to.

On the SE, you should aim for about 2,500 off. As far as freebies, at 2,500 you might get a small item or two, but that's about it. Now it's summertime and they are not that desperate. If you like those aluminum fuel doors, then ask for that.

The markup on the GT is 3,300 so the SE should be around the same. Hey, if you're in GTA and need help, I can probably get you a deal at the dealership that I got mine from. Had my SE for almost two months now.

The dealer invoice price is a closely guarded 'secret' at most dealerships. In fact, some use it weed out the truly interested and decent negotiators from the skivvers who just want to pay the lowest amount. Think about it: the dealer has to make at least invoice price or else they won't make money off of the sale; forget about the fact that they'll make mad money off of the servicing costs. Why should they sell something to you at a loss?

Accessories are if you want to throw money away; they're worth next to nothing at resale and will do little for the car's performance (unless you're buying things like suspension and flywheel, but that's some serious cash you need to be spending to get deep into the catalogue). The profit margins on those items are enormous, too.

Accessories are if you want to throw money away; they're worth next to nothing at resale and will do little for the car's performance (unless you're buying things like suspension and flywheel, but that's some serious cash you need to be spending to get deep into the catalogue). The profit margins on those items are enormous, too.

Sorry to disagree here. I buy accessories for my enjoyment and not for resale value. It's like some people, live in a house for 20 years and finish the basement just to sell the house or get a better price (forget about the fact that they will never recover renovation costs. But, that's another topic. :) )

About performance mods - myself, I would never buy a car that is performance moded (turbo, body kits, etc). We all know what the previous owner had in mind when they put them on. For the same reason, I wouldn't buy a used SUV if it has a hitch on it.

Got to enjoy life...

Sure, some accessories are for the enjoyment and convenience of the owner. You could maybe convince me that an MP3 player is useful. Maybe even satnav (but in Canada, anywhere but the biggest of cities, it IS useless). But fuel caps? Rotary emblems? Chromed rims? Where is the utility/enjoyment in that?

I'll put the $500 in accessories towards my PS3 budget...

Sure, some accessories are for the enjoyment and convenience of the owner. You could maybe convince me that an MP3 player is useful. Maybe even satnav (but in Canada, anywhere but the biggest of cities, it IS useless). But fuel caps? Rotary emblems? Chromed rims? Where is the utility/enjoyment in that?

I'll put the $500 in accessories towards my PS3 budget...

I like oranges you like bananas...no point arguing there... :ylsuper:

Carcostcanada.com

100 bucks for their car broker service.

You tell them what mark up you want to pay, and also any costs (b.s. admin fee's etc).

Someone will call you back and let you know realistically what you can buy the car for.

He punches it out with the dealer, and in a couple of days will phne you back with a total price, and who to contact.

If he cant deal then you are not charged.

I bought my last vehicle this way. Best hundred bucks I ever spent. Honestly.

One thing he will stress though is not to take this offer to another dealer to shave a few more bucks off.

Most dealers that step up to the plate with this guy (I believe he has a good network of dealers across Canada) might be discouraged to do so in the future.

Good info.!!

One thing he will stress though is not to take this offer to another dealer to shave a few more bucks off.

**I spoke with a broker who had a reputation for getting the lowest price possible... I was able to get $1000 below the brokers bottomline buy simply calling and visiting as many dealers as I could.**

IMO, a little leg works still pays in the end..

A little leg work will ruin it for everyone else.

Dealers will no longer "step up to the plate" if they will simply be under cut by a few more bucks.

A little leg work will ruin it for everyone else.

Dealers will no longer "step up to the plate" if they will simply be under cut by a few more bucks.

Thats a crock O' ****.... A broker is doing the exact same thing, exept that you are paying him $$$$ to do it.

Your telling me that you would pay thousands more to help out a total stranger???
LOL!!!!!! :rofl:
and if dealer "A", is willing to under cut dealer "B", why would you not take the lower price and save yourself some money???

Check out Edmunds' car-buying tips: http://www.edmunds.com/advice/.

Here's a link to the Kelly Blue Book page on the 2006 manual RX8: http://www.kbb.com/kb/ki.dll/kw.kc.ncop?kbb.FL;737521;FL033&32514&&;;nc;&3&06MAX1_BM;060700. It shows MSRP price, invoice, and "what consumers are really paying for this vehicle." You can add options by clicking "Price with Options."

Finally, Kelly also has a listing of current incentives: http://www.kbb.com/kb/ki.dll/kw.kc.nmmc?kbb;;FL033;&32514&&;;inc

The manual 8 is here: http://www.kbb.com/kb/ki.dll/kw.kc.ncinc?kbb.FL;343338;FL033&32514&&;;inc;&3&06MAX1_BM;060700

There are a couple of current incentives, but they expire July 5. Sometimes, the incentives give you an idea of which cars are selling well and which cars dealers have additional money with which to play.

I don't know if these tools are usefulf or the Canadian market.

Thats a crock O' ****.... A broker is doing the exact same thing, exept that you are paying him $$$$ to do it.

Your telling me that you would pay thousands more to help out a total stranger???
LOL!!!!!! :rofl:
and if dealer "A", is willing to under cut dealer "B", why would you not take the lower price and save yourself some money???



The whole point of using a broker is to avoid the entire haggling process.
Brokers (and car buying services) usually have a network of dealers that pre agree to pricing that represents what is fair to everyone.

What I am trying to say (and you dont seem to understand) is that yes you can always take your price to play against another dealer. There may always be another dealer that will undercut someone else, dependant on different variables.

In my case the Nissan dealer I bought from was concerned that after stepping up to the plate, he would be undercut by a couple of dollars.
If this were to happen that dealer may in the future refuse to deal with the broker.
Thus ruining it for eveyone else.

The whole point of using a broker is to avoid playing dealers against one another.

So, when my broker asks me not to start the back and forth game, then I will do that. Otherwise I will not enlist the help of a broker.

Of course I will not pay thousands more to help a complete stranger.
That would never happen.

I seriously doubt you were able to knock another grand of the brokers price. Well maybe if it was a high priced vehicle and the dealer needed one more sale at the end of the month to win a prize.

You may be able to knock 50 bucks off per dealer via the back and forth method. You may even get some floor mats.
But thousands?

I guess anything is possible, but that has not been my experience.

Can someone chime in here, and tell me if they understand what I am saying?

I live in Winnipeg, the wholesale cheapskate capital of Canada. Everyone wants something for nothing.

I used to work retail.

It would drive me nuts to see people play the back and forth game for weeks just to shave small amounts off of a big purchase.

Serious money is saved (be me personally any way) be using a broker.

My last purchase saw a savings of just under 2 grand on a 32, 000 vehicle.
This was better than I was able to do on my own.

I am not saying you will not save further by playing your broker's offer against another dealer.

Al I am saying is that if you had pulled your stunt on my dealer prior to my purchase, my broker may not have been able to the job I hired him for.

I sold cars before, the salesman's goal is to close the deal for the most the customer will pay no matter what. I quit because this line of sales brings the worst out of a good salesman. Everyone says "be prepared to leave". I say, no matter how good the deal seems, "LEAVE" and give it some thought otherwise your emotions will guid your purchase. Now the salesman will call you daily to follow up, play with him, tell him what "you want from him for a deal" and be prepared to close if he will come through. Last of all, go to all dealerships. Some command a better markup than others due to their location and take advantage of it, check out the "out of town" dealers as well. Now for financing, tell them you "are" looking to fianance, they get a kickback from the banks and will cut their margin. Then when it comes to finalizing, make a 95% down payment on the deal. Never do a trade in, they'll give you squat no matter how they color it.