It better have one :)

Same tire, same everything.. I don't want a bloody donut or space saver in the trunk.

When you're riding on 18s you have to be careful not to dent the things... and if there's no full size spare I'll be supremely pissed off.

My BMW 325i had 17" rims and those bad boys got dinged regularly, even with tires that had that rim protection garbage. Of course, the car spent most of its time in Germany and the curbs are very unforgiving there. Still, give me the 18's and I'll take that risk ;)

Full size spare means alot of extra space required + more cost. I wouldn't be surprised if it didn't come with one.

Runflats please!!!!!!!

Originally posted by irresistibo
Runflats please!!!!!!!

Runflats work by making very stiff sidewalls that rob some of the perfomance from the tire. Are you sure you want them?

I would like a full size spare as well. Finding tires the correct size for the RX-8, should one go flat could take awhile. I'd rather not drive around for days while an order to tirerack or someplace gets shipped in.

Most runflats also have a lot of road noise--and aren't really prefered.

When is the required tire pressure gauge take effect in the US? (Sorry I forgot)

I don't care about run-flats, I don't usually get blow-outs... I have been known to dent a rim or two though :)

So I'd like to have a full size spare with a nice easy hydraulic jack in the trunk :D

Ahhhh the hopes :)

Why do you need a full size spare? Personally, if something happens to one of my tires, I might be driving around on a donut for a day at the most (I've done it before, and I'll probably have to do it again). I will personally accept the decreased weight and increased storage space offered by a donut.

Besides, if Mazda put a fifth 18x8 and the appropriate performance tire hidden away in the trunk, that's another bunch of cash that will be added to the price. I'd rather not.

BTW, who said "run-flats"? Lemme get out my moderatin' stick... ;)

---jps

Another thing regarding run-flats: if the car comes with them as original equipment, the automaker is required to put in the air-pressure monitoring system... and then we're talking $$.

A donut spare is fine with me. Free's up a lot of trunk space, costs less than a full size spare too.

Donut is fine.. I can't remember when if ever I had a flat in my 15 years of driving.. Only once with work trucks, never with my personal car. Besides a full size tire will just be wasting in there.. and it ain't cheap.

MMMMMMM, donuts - Homer Simpson :D

A full size spare is going to be pretty tough to fit back there reasonably well. 18x8 rim with decent rubber is going to be pretty big & heavy. We're probably looking at 235/40 R18 as std equipment. With that spec tire, you'll have a sidewall height of 94mm or @3.75" Mulitply the sidewall height by 2 and then add 18 for the rim diameter and we're now close to 25.5" in diameter. Total depth of rim and tire would be about 9.25".

Since many of us are very conscious about the weight of the car as well, I think the RX-8 would be well served with a donut spare. If you live in an area where puctures are prevalent, keep a can of fix-a-flat in the car. It's pressurized enough to pump up your tire enough to make it drivable til you get a replacement and has some chemical in it to help seal the puncture. This is a really good tradeoff to a full size spare when considering cost, weight and storage.

Here is a "spy picture" of the actual spare that will be used in the RX-8. Please do not tell anyone elese.:o

Originally posted by boowana
Here is a "spy picture" of the actual spare that will be used in the RX-8. Please do not tell anyone elese.:o
Meanie :P

When you get the car just take the Spare out and throw in can of "fix-a-flat".


Originally posted by red_base 95
MMMMMMM, donuts - Homer Simpson :D

A full size spare is going to be pretty tough to fit back there reasonably well. 18x8 rim with decent rubber is going to be pretty big & heavy. We're probably looking at 235/40 R18 as std equipment. With that spec tire, you'll have a sidewall height of 94mm or @3.75" Mulitply the sidewall height by 2 and then add 18 for the rim diameter and we're now close to 25.5" in diameter. Total depth of rim and tire would be about 9.25".

Since many of us are very conscious about the weight of the car as well, I think the RX-8 would be well served with a donut spare. If you live in an area where puctures are prevalent, keep a can of fix-a-flat in the car. It's pressurized enough to pump up your tire enough to make it drivable til you get a replacement and has some chemical in it to help seal the puncture. This is a really good tradeoff to a full size spare when considering cost, weight and storage.

It would be cool to have a replacement rim sitting in the garage just in case the unspeakable happens and you need it. And if the 8 comes with lightweight aluminum wheels the donut with the steel rim won't be that much lighter so keep a can of fix-a-flat (approx. 1lb) for emergencies and the spare in the garage.

I doubt that Mazda would go to all the trouble to give the car aluminium suspension bits and a carbon-fiber driveshaft just to counter all that weight savings with a big honkin' heavy-ass spare tire.

I'd much rather have more trunk space and less weight than a full-size spare.

Fix-a-flat won't work if you get a blowout, only if you have a pinhole leak (and then only if you're lucky).

I hate that stuff. Used to work in a tire shop. I'd shudder when someone would roll in a tire saying they used fix-a-flat. If its been inside the tire longer than a few days, the tire is garbage. It rusts the steel belts quicker than water. Some places won't warranty a tire that has had that stuff used on it.

So we're back to the donut.. :D Probably the best compromise between utility and weight saving.

Full size spare is always preferable, but in the case of the RX-8, where weight is a primary concern, we may be faced with a donut. No one seems to know what we will get. This is, of course, only speculation only.

Originally posted by Sputnik
Why do you need a full size spare? Personally, if something happens to one of my tires, I might be driving around on a donut for a day at the most (I've done it before, and I'll probably have to do it again). I will personally accept the decreased weight and increased storage space offered by a donut.

Besides, if Mazda put a fifth 18x8 and the appropriate performance tire hidden away in the trunk, that's another bunch of cash that will be added to the price. I'd rather not.

BTW, who said "run-flats"? Lemme get out my moderatin' stick... ;)

---jps

I totally agree. Give me the lighter, cheaper, smaller donut than the a fullsize spare or the heavier, more expensive, and lower performance of the runflats. Besides, everyone should have at least one set of track rims tucked away in the garage somewhere anyway. :D

A side note: Though the side walls of the run flats are stiffer than non-run flat tires, since the RX-8 will have 18" rims, I think the "standard" tire sidewalls will be stiff by default and the run flat version of the same tires will only be slightly stiffer.

Just a thought.

If the RX-8 gets a torque sensistive differential, then a full size spare wheel would HAVE to be included. The Audi A4 quattro doesn't have a full size spare wheel and it is limited to 50 mph for 50 miles and the center torsen differential has a cooling pump and cooler.

Originally posted by MikeW
If the RX-8 gets a torque sensistive differential, then a full size spare wheel would HAVE to be included. The Audi A4 quattro doesn't have a full size spare wheel and it is limited to 50 mph for 50 miles and the center torsen differential has a cooling pump and cooler.
Well the RX-8 has a Torsen LSD standard (even on base model).

Can you explain WHY you'd need a full-size?

He is suggesting that you need the same overall diameter because the difference in circumference while rolling down the highway will eat up the friction plates in a LSD since the axles will be spinning at different speeds. The full size spare always refers to overall diameter not necessarily a full replacement rim and tire, I think that has been misunderstood eventhough many car makers are including another rim now.

Originally posted by SPDFRK
he is suggesting that you need the same overall diameter because the difference in circumference while rolling down the highway will eat up the friction plates in a LSD since the axles will be spinning at different speeds
Ah, so there is hope for my little request :)

don't get your hopes up because there are cars with LSD and donuts that tell you if you get a flat out back to trade a front to back and put the donut on a non-drive axle.

And there are "doughnuts" that are the same final diameter as the full spares, just not as wide, etc. Think about it, if there are big brakes, the spare will have to fit over it anyway.

---jps

hmm, auto-xing on 18" steel doughnuts would be interesting... :D

Originally posted by SPDFRK
He is suggesting that you need the same overall diameter because the difference in circumference while rolling down the highway will eat up the friction plates in a LSD since the axles will be spinning at different speeds.

Actually there are no "friction plates" (i.e. clutch discs) in a Torsen LSD. Still not a good idea to have different overall tire diameters, though.

did the rx-7 have a full size or donut?

just for comparison....

the 350Z has a full size spare

I don't care if it's full size or a donut. Just please leave room for a full size. It sucks to get a flat, put on the donut, and realize the flat tire will not fit in the donut cavity.

It would also make it a little easier to transport racing tires. Or at least one.

Randy Chase
P.S. Hey jps...

How much is that fix a flat stuff, and how are when do you usually dent your rims? Why is it that with 18"'s you get more dents? Is it mearly the bigger surface area? Again, humour me. I'm not as experienced as you guys. Thanks!:confused:

Originally posted by ilovepotatos
How much is that fix a flat stuff, and how are when do you usually dent your rims? Why is it that with 18"'s you get more dents? Is it mearly the bigger surface area? Again, humour me. I'm not as experienced as you guys. Thanks!:confused:

It's been a while since I bought any of that aerosol stuff... it was about $15 a few years ago...

Don't know about dents in the rims... never had a car with 18" rims... anyone care to comment?

With 18's you'll seriously have to watch the curbs. Even a minor low-speed run into one can ding them pretty bad. May not damage the rim to the point where it's unusable, but it'll definitely make it look like shit.

Originally posted by rxtreme
With 18's you'll seriously have to watch the curbs. Even a minor low-speed run into one can ding them pretty bad. May not damage the rim to the point where it's unusable, but it'll definitely make it look like shit.

That's the obvious bit I suppose... anyone comment about the chance of damaging them from a poor road surface??

A friend of mine managed to turn his 17's into a kinda pac-man shape... but that was a rather exceptional hole in the road.

yup, the deal with chipping big wheels easily is that there is less tyre to give way before solid hits solid...
and because the sidewall is so close to the ground, even small rocks and stuff (that you try to guide your tyres around) that the edge of the rim will catch on, and bend as the tyre rolls over it...
the bigger the rim (and smaller the sidewall), obviously, the more things this can happen with...

Actually, the wheel/tires will be 225/45 18's.

Give me a donut - less expensive, less weight and more room in the trunk for my golf clubs. :D

Originally posted by ZoomZoom
Give me a donut - less expensive, less weight and more room in the trunk for my golf clubs. :D
you can fit two sets in there, so figure you still fit one with a donut, and that's enough for you to play golf :)

Originally posted by ZoomZoom
Give me a donut - less expensive, less weight and more room in the trunk for my golf clubs. :D

If they don't allow room for a full size spare, where do you put the regular tire when you have a flat and you are driving on your donut. I fdon't mind the donut at all. With good tires and the state of tire technology, it's been a long time since I have had a flat. I just want the room to put the regular tire. That way I can put a racing tire there, and then one in the trunk, and two in the back seat. :)

MMmmmm.... donuts.

Hurcules:

Start getting pissed off now so that you will be over it by the time your shiny new RX-8 is delivered.:D

Originally posted by boowana
Hurcules:

Start getting pissed off now so that you will be over it by the time your shiny new RX-8 is delivered.:D
Hehe, nawww I won't be mad actually.. but I would prefer the full size if not for anything else but safety. Though I must admit, I have a pretty good track record now for not busting tires :)

Do you guys actually use heal and toe shifting?

You don't? It's not only for racing, it's the only way to get a smooth downshift while braking.

P.S., how exactly does that fit in with this thread? Or was it just a random thought you had?

Originally posted by Macabre
You don't? It's not only for racing, it's the only way to get a smooth downshift while braking.

P.S., how exactly does that fit in with this thread? Or was it just a random thought you had?
It's not the only way...

it's the simplest and least complicated way. I personally don't hee and toe because I've found a better method, but it's more work on a turn so there can be a tad bit of a slowdown if you don't do it fast. I've done it as long as I can remember, so fortunately I've got it down and I do it fast. Just ease up on the clutch as you throttle in, and on the turn you have a perfect turn-in and no 'jump' in the car.

Granted it's slower than heel and toeing IF you aren't used to it (which most people are not), so for me it's faster.. but I'm used to it :)

I live in suburban Detroit, and our pot holes are caverns into hell out here. It's the fact that we have lots of salt mines so we use salt to tame the ice on our roads in the winter, come spring, it has eaten into the road and the heat expansion just open up the wounds more. So if you have 'rims' or a lowered car out here, you get used to being carefull and paying attention to faults in the roadway. I personally have used a donut for up to several days in these conditions and as long as you realize your driving with a dounut, it really isn't that bad on your ride, well you car anyways. So I think a donut will work just fine...It ain't that hard to get your tire fixed is it? Oh and for the record, Fix-A-Flat...Best shit since sliced bread if you need a new tire anyway.

Originally posted by Macabre
You don't? It's not only for racing, it's the only way to get a smooth downshift while braking.

P.S., how exactly does that fit in with this thread? Or was it just a random thought you had?

I wondered the same thing.

But I disagree about it being the only way to downshift while braking, specially in competitive motorsports.

I don't think the 18" wheels are a problem on the roads since the profile is 45. However, anything less than that would be difficult to accept on real world roads.

Originally posted by Hercules

Just ease up on the clutch as you throttle in, and on the turn you have a perfect turn-in and no 'jump' in the car.


How does easing up on the clutch help to rev match when downshifting? Heel/toe'ing is used when you are braking and need to downshift without letting up on the brakes. Without rev-matching, any downshift will be rough, but you can't rev-match normally in this scenario because your right foot is busy on the brake pedal.

I don't see how your description of events, or any other besides the standard, solves the problem. You need to be on the brakes, clutch, and throttle all at the same time. Unless you have a third leg or some kind of hand operated pedal, that means heel/toe'ing.

Originally posted by Macabre


How does easing up on the clutch help to rev match when downshifting? Heel/toe'ing is used when you are braking and need to downshift without letting up on the brakes. Without rev-matching, any downshift will be rough, but you can't rev-match normally in this scenario because your right foot is busy on the brake pedal.

I don't see how your description of events, or any other besides the standard, solves the problem. You need to be on the brakes, clutch, and throttle all at the same time. Unless you have a third leg or some kind of hand operated pedal, that means heel/toe'ing.
Let me explain it better. Heel and toeing is used with downshifting. I downshift like this:

First, you approach the turn, clutch in fully and shift from forth to second (this is for example).

As you approach the turn, you've slowed the car enough that you can start accellerating out of the turn, so you slowly clutch out and throttle in.

It's smooth and no jumps are involved. And you get optimal power exiting the turn as well as it being smooth.

Works for me :)

It's like letting the car cruise in neutral until you slow down (staying on the clutch), then downshift when the speed is low enough that it doesn't matter which gear you select.

It's kind of partial toe and heel, without the throttle blip to allow you to shift sooner.

At least, that's how I'm reading it.

Yes, I understand what you're saying. The key here is that you are not downshifting while braking. What you are doing could just be called shifting.

Heel/toe'ing is required when you want to accomplish the somewhat more involved task of shifting and braking at the same time, unless you have the aforementioned third leg or a pet monkey working the pedals for you. That's why in my original comment I said "it's the only way to get a smooth downshift while braking." Not "smooth downshift a second after you complete your braking" :)

The problems with leaving the clutch in while you decellerate and not keeping it in gear are: a) It's not as safe. If you need to accelerate very quickly to escape something to the sides or behind you, you can't, because you aren't in gear; b) It causes more wear on the brakes from lack of engine braing; c) It's not as fun! Heel/toe'ing makes you feel like a driving hero when performed correctly :cool: d) It takes longer to perform the maneuver. The time may seem insignificant, but on a track if you have 10 corners that require braking and it takes 1/2 second longer each time because you wait 'till you're done braking to shift that's 5 seconds per lap!

Regarding "fix-a-flat"...it's a lifesaver (ask any motorcyclist) just make sure you have the courtesy to tell you mechanic or tire guy that you have used it. It's a huge mess for the poor dude taking your tire off the rim.