Hi there,
If anyone can give me advice on my problem -- please do :bowdown:

I installed the following components into my 2005 RX8 base model

Audiolink Ipod kit
Infinity Reference 5x7 component 90 rms @ 4ohm
Infinity Reference 6x9 100 rms @4ohm

Audiocontrol LC6 (to get a signal to my amp)
McIntosh MC431 100 x 4 @ 4ohm (switchable to 2-3-4 channel and newly repaired by McIntosh from a professional installer that blew it up a long long time ago)

Ok I tapped the audio signals coming from the Stock non-Bose HU using the wiring guide on this forum and ran it to the LC6 input speaker terminals, and used the rear accessory wire as a remote, the LC6 has a remote in and out which goes to the McIntosh amp.
I took my time and wired everything properly and everything looks good even running new speaker wire from the front doors with upgraded 16gauge speaker wire to power them up from the amp.

The problem is the amp I believe, it has a "powerguard" feature that cuts the amp out when clipping occurs, therefore preventing the speakers from being destroyed.
When I turn on the vehicle or reconnect the negative terminal of the battery the amp and LC6 turn on but there is a slight pop sound coming from the speakers. The power light on the amp is on but the "powerguard" is also on, so no audio. The amp has onboard breakers so I power off my car and reset the amp. Once again when I turn on the vehicle the pop sound occurs.

I got the car to work 1 time during the initial install on a fluke after I took a break, everything worked fine, then when I went ahead to put the car together I disconnected the negative terminal to save my lights and any other mishaps that might occur, and when I reconnected the negative terminal on the battery the pop sound is back..... there must be some error somewhere but I cannot figure it out
Everything is grounded properly, to the chassis (scraped the paint a bit to get a good ground), and the LC6 looks good and a signal is coming out.

I tried making a relay from the accessory plug wire being tapped using a 30amp relay to get a 3.6v signal to the amp's remote wire terminal and for the LC6-- no difference.

If anyone has and information or experience with McIntosh equipment please help I spent 3 days in my garage installing this stuff and trying to get this thing to run.

:confused:

Try disconnecting the remote turn on wire from the amp & the LC6. Take a voltage measurement on that wire. You should have full battery voltage. Then hook up the amp & LC6 individually and take voltage measurements each way. Sounds like something (probably the amp) is bringing down the voltage to 3.6v. Audiocontrol has the new LC6i out w/ high current 12v out, but I seriously doubt that is an issue since both units are powering up. I have never owned a McIntosh, but remember that the LC6 can put out 9.5v to the amp, so try adjusting the "output level" down, maybe the amp is not used to seeing anything over about 2.5v. (This sounds like what is happening) I'm sure forbidden will pick up on this thread soon, he seems to be the Audiocontrol god.

Any luck yet?

I was away, sorry about that. Disconnect all the rca cables from the amp. Does the unit still go into protection? If yes, start next by removing all speakers wires from the amp. Retest again. If the amp is still in protection, the amp is pooched. If not, hook up the speaker wires one at a time and retest after each one. You may have a speaker wire grounding out and this is one way to test for it. If you have a meter, set it to continuity and test the speaker wires one at a time for continuity to ground and for a complete circuit. If you do not have a complete circuit on one speaker, then that speaker may be the problem as to why the amp is in protection. Post up the results if you will.

Seems like there is a problem with the amp, powerguard is still popping up even though no rca's are connected. I checked out the continuity of all the speaker wires they look good,
These are the results from the multimeter test set at 200 ohm setting, and the system under no power.

Speaker wire running to Infinitys read ~ 4ohm
Speaker wire running to HU (signals that at being tapped for LOC) is about ~ 107-109 ohm... which I find odd? (sorry still a noob when it comes to this testing stuff)

no frayed wires on power, or groundwire.. or speakerwire ( the insulation on it is pretty thick and I was extremely careful not to force anything to prevent stripping of this insulation while running the wires through the doors)
guess it is back to McIntosh repair service again, or look for another amp.. :mad:

Hi there,
If anyone can give me advice on my problem -- please do :bowdown:

I installed the following components into my 2005 RX8 base model

Audiolink Ipod kit
Infinity Reference 5x7 component 90 rms @ 4ohm
Infinity Reference 6x9 100 rms @4ohm

Audiocontrol LC6 (to get a signal to my amp)
McIntosh MC431 100 x 4 @ 4ohm (switchable to 2-3-4 channel and newly repaired by McIntosh from a professional installer that blew it up a long long time ago)

Ok I tapped the audio signals coming from the Stock non-Bose HU using the wiring guide on this forum and ran it to the LC6 input speaker terminals, and used the rear accessory wire as a remote, the LC6 has a remote in and out which goes to the McIntosh amp.
I took my time and wired everything properly and everything looks good even running new speaker wire from the front doors with upgraded 16gauge speaker wire to power them up from the amp.

The problem is the amp I believe, it has a "powerguard" feature that cuts the amp out when clipping occurs, therefore preventing the speakers from being destroyed.
When I turn on the vehicle or reconnect the negative terminal of the battery the amp and LC6 turn on but there is a slight pop sound coming from the speakers. The power light on the amp is on but the "powerguard" is also on, so no audio. The amp has onboard breakers so I power off my car and reset the amp. Once again when I turn on the vehicle the pop sound occurs.

I got the car to work 1 time during the initial install on a fluke after I took a break, everything worked fine, then when I went ahead to put the car together I disconnected the negative terminal to save my lights and any other mishaps that might occur, and when I reconnected the negative terminal on the battery the pop sound is back..... there must be some error somewhere but I cannot figure it out
Everything is grounded properly, to the chassis (scraped the paint a bit to get a good ground), and the LC6 looks good and a signal is coming out.

I tried making a relay from the accessory plug wire being tapped using a 30amp relay to get a 3.6v signal to the amp's remote wire terminal and for the LC6-- no difference.

If anyone has and information or experience with McIntosh equipment please help I spent 3 days in my garage installing this stuff and trying to get this thing to run.

:confused:


____________

Okay, a few suggestions that have worked for me, From the amp, run the Positive 12volt battery wire not to the battery, but to the fuze box. If you look in your owners manual, there should be 2 spare fuses in the fuze panel that you can inser the half metal loop into as if it were a fuse..

Second, use the rear aux 12 volt accessory. You can tap into this from the inside from removing the console.

Next you will need a Ground for the amp. The shorter the ground, the better. You dont want it too short, because if it tugs out, you could cause a shortage. Keep the ground in the same location as the amp itself (ie. trunk - about 2 feet away from the amp.)

Now the tricky part for the Rx8, the head unit does not have Aux out. So if you do not have one already, you will need a Line out converter. With this, you can just tap into your rear speaker wires to get a auxillary output.

This should help, let me know if you have any questions..

Regards,
Scott

First, this thread is years old. If he hasn't figured out the problem by now, I'm sure he's given up. lol Next, the LC6 is a line-output converter. Yeesh my man.... do a little more research before you respond.
From the amp, run the Positive 12volt battery wire not to the battery, but to the fuze box. If you look in your owners manual, there should be 2 spare fuses in the fuze panel that you can inser the half metal loop into as if it were a fuse..:icon5: Are you out of your mind? Are you suggesting he run his main power wire (either 4 or 8g wire) to any available space on the fuse box?!?

What firebird said.

My remote out on my LC7 never worked properly. connecting both the amp and the LC7 to the remote line from the stereo worked like a charm for turn off/on thump. The rear accessory 12v jack is a kludge and a poor way of getting a remote turn on. How do I know? I've used it.

My remote out on my LC7 never worked properly. Oddly enough... neither did the remote on my LC6i .....:scratchhe