well all, i have seen some interest in performing this mod on the forum here, and as i had planned to do it myself, i went ahead and documented the steps i took. feel free to contact me with any questions.

enjoy

http://home.comcast.net/~c_wrzesniewski/windowsmod.htm

Great write up. Where did you purchase the module from?

im in the car audio industry, so i got it from my place of employment

A great DIY addition!

S

Cool. One question, if I read everything correctly I can make the passenger window auto up and down if I buy another module and hook it up the same way?

Any idea where I can get two of those modules? Thanks.

God bless Google. I'm sure you can purchase as many of these as you want right here folks!

Ambient Weather (http://www.ambientweather.com/db530t.html) - 57.86
Sonic Electronics (http://www.sonicelectronix.com/viewitem.php?id=3682) - 59.99
A1 Electric (http://www.a1electric.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=AEOS&Product_Code=530T) - 69.95

The procedure makes BOTH windows auto-up and auto-down, with ONE module. The only use for a second module would be to make the passenger side switch ALSO auto.

....as to where to buy them, just search "530t" on good old Ebay - you might buy from the same guy I just did! :rock: He's got some left!

S

yup, both windows are auto up and down from the drivers switch.

The procedure makes BOTH windows auto-up and auto-down, with ONE module. The only use for a second module would be to make the passenger side switch ALSO auto.

....as to where to buy them, just search "530t" on good old Ebay - you might buy from the same guy I just did! :rock: He's got some left!

S

Right, well since my wife rides in the car alot she'd like the passenger side switch to be auto up and down as well.

Another place to buy like Stealth said is on Ebay. I just paid 48.02 (which INCLUDES $10 for shipping) for the thing. Not a huge OMG that's one step away from free discount, but it's nice to save a penny here and there you know. So yeah, check out Ebay also. I also saw some on Amazon, again, just search 530t.

Is it possible to use this module to make the sunroof to be one touch close as well?

Does anyone know if the stock driver's side auto-down is just a function of the switch, or something else? I thought I read in another forum somebody just bought another auto-down switch, and swapped the passenger's window switch out. I could be wrong.

Another place to buy like Stealth said is on Ebay. I just paid 48.02 (which INCLUDES $10 for shipping) for the thing. Not a huge OMG that's one step away from free discount, but it's nice to save a penny here and there you know. So yeah, check out Ebay also. I also saw some on Amazon, again, just search 530t.


wow, and here i though 40% off retail would be a pretty big discount :)

Does anyone know if the stock driver's side auto-down is just a function of the switch, or something else? I thought I read in another forum somebody just bought another auto-down switch, and swapped the passenger's window switch out. I could be wrong.


auto down is a function of the switch, but these modules also give you auto up as well

wow, and here i though 40% off retail would be a pretty big discount :)

I'm no math whiz so I didn't think it was 40% off. I just saw it as the cheapest available was $57.86 at the site I linked to above and I paid $48.02 so I saved like $9 in my eyes. But hell, it's on it's way, that's all I care about. Thanks for the write up btw - I would have NEVER done this without it!!!

I'm curious about the sunroof switch as well. I am going to purchase one of these modules today!! Great write up!!

Absolutely one of the best DIY's I have ever seen.. Thanks lurch519

I'm curious about the sunroof switch as well. I am going to purchase one of these modules today!! Great write up!!
I know Lurch bought 2 of them, so he's probably working on the sunroof as we speak (type?)

there is another module, the dei 529t which will control 2 windows in one direction, or one window in 2 directions. i am not sure if this unit will do auto, i will probably investigate it in the next week or so.

Great job, THANKS! This is going into my collection of threads....

is this auto up and down at all times or you still retain manual feature?

auto up and down is at all times, though if you tap the switch again, it will stop the motion of the windows. only exception is if you press all the way down on the drivers side switch, which from the factory is auto down. if you do that, you just need to pull the switch up.

This is a really cool DIY man

Good work

I would just like to ADD to the DIY, DON'T let your little brother help, and DON'T attempt to do it during spotty weather.

The story - So my little brother (17) is helping me out through most of the install and keeping the place NOT a mess and it starts to drizzle, so we decide to go somewhere to park and not have rain come down on us. I was doing some more work as he was packing all the tools. Well, the SOB left the MOST IMPORTANT PART - the damn door control panel on the top of the car, so it falls off eventually and gets run over!!! Leaving the front looking like this
http://www.rx8club.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74118&stc=1
I'm still in shock as I've been trying to get a hold of the dealers to find out how much it will be to replace the entire thing and I'm looking at almost $300 dollars. All the switches on the back are destroyed and completely unusable. I'm going to kill this child!!!

On TOP of that, I have NO control of my windows until the parts come in. GAH.

So for those of you who HAVE done this... are you having any problems with your window lock button. The one that makes your passenger windown locked, because mine has gone haywire. I.E. when I press it it will randomly move the passenger window up or down about half an inch and stop. If I press it all the way in (having the window LOCKED effect) *I* can't move the window, but the passenger can. And if I leave it pressed when I turn the car on, window automatically goes all the way down. I havn't tried it with the window already down, but those are enough symptoms to warrant a concern. Any idea what I could have done wrong?

can you take some good digital pictures of all your connections and what not and email them to me? if so i will take a look and see if i can figure it out.

actually everything is taped up. I know there is nothing loose. That's why it confuses me. And with everything else working properly it just throws me for a loop.

are you saying the connections are taped up, or all the wires in general. what i was looking for was a picture of each connection, so i could see what wires were connected where

I taped everything up. I followed the color instructions to the tee though I know I did. I double,tripled check every color set before I did it. But to answer, everything is taped. On thing I had to do different now that I think about it. I couldn't find the T-Tap you used for tapping into the power wire. So what I did was use a generic T-tap and run some power wire from that to a isulated clip to connect those wires. That was the only thing I had to do differently thanks to lack of parts.

He SOB left the MOST IMPORTANT PART - the damn door control panel on the top of the car, so it falls off eventually and gets run over!!!
Good time to buy the aluminum switches....

So for those of you who HAVE done this... are you having any problems with your window lock button. The one that makes your passenger windown locked, because mine has gone haywire. I.E. when I press it it will randomly move the passenger window up or down about half an inch and stop. If I press it all the way in (having the window LOCKED effect) *I* can't move the window, but the passenger can. And if I leave it pressed when I turn the car on, window automatically goes all the way down. I havn't tried it with the window already down, but those are enough symptoms to warrant a concern. Any idea what I could have done wrong?

i tested my passenger lockout switch as well yesterday, and it does the same things you are describing here. i honestly do not know why this does this.

Well, if yours does it too, then I don't feel like I messed up. I never use the button anyway, I was just checking because if that was wrong, lord knows what else would be messed up. Thanks for the info.

lol, i never even checked mine til you brought it up, as i dont use mine either, i rarely have anyone riding shotgun, and never anyone under 10 that i would have to smack for playing with the windows

I feel like I am invading the enemies camp, but I will post this anyway . . . So, I am a Civic owner . . . I am trying to create a button in my 01 Civic Coupe EX that controls both the sunroof and the power windows at the same time. I would like to be able to push in this button once and the sunroof and windows automatically open, similar to the automatic window feature on the driver's side. Another press of the button, and the sunroof and windows automatically close. Ideally, there would be a way to have the option of opening just the sunroof automatically. And of course, I still want the regular factory controls to work as they did before. I'm asking alot right?! The point is that I hate having to hold down these buttons everytime I want to open/close these everytime I leave my vehicle. I need this because I use the ipod2car feature for my ipod, and do not want the ipod stolen, which happens a lot in my area. So I would like the closing of these windows to be easy. I would like to install this button next to the power outlet where there is a place for another button. Any help on this would be great. If you know of a site where this has already been done, I would love to know about it.

Lurch---
Someone told me that you have a way to hook up the auto up down to the factory door lock? So if i hit the locks one time it will try to close the windows? What about if i triple tap the unlock? can it roll down all the windows? Now that would be awesome for us that want the same features of an alarm w/ window module but don't want to install a new alarm.

Just did this install last week thanks to the detailed instructions and clear pictures. My passenger window lockout switch does the same thing. Nice, easy, cheap mod that's functional. Thanks lurch!

So since I have the Viper Alarm, I can do this mod plus connect it to my main unit for control from the remote? Anyone tried this yet?

When you go to do it there are three extra wires that are there just for that, so yes, it is possible with the viper alarm from what I understand. Be advised I have NOT done that part myself, I just cut those wires as I don't have a viper alarm.

yes, absolutely possible, i have it the same way in my 8. arm the alarm, and if the windows are down, they roll up automatically.

then, if you hook it up to one of the aux channels on the alarm, you can activate the channel and roll the windows down.

lurch,
Did you install it to your alarm yourself? Did you have to do any reporgramming to the alarm? I know there is a bit writer that the installers use, but I am attempting to do all of it myself.

James

yes, i did the install myself, but i also have the advantage of 9 years experience in the car audio industry, in both sales and installs. no, you do not need to do any reprogramming.

Just picked it up from a local audio shop, plan on installing this weekend, I will let everyone know how it goes!

Everything worked PERFECTLY!! Thank you for this awesome DIY!!
I ended up hooking it to the alarm so that I can crack the windows with one press or roll them fully down with another. Only thing you can't do is roll the windows up with the remote, but if you arm the system it rolls them up automatically, worked perfect on the fist try!!!!

so in order to have with window up/down funcion through your alarm, which of the 3 wires go where?

I will need to double check when I get home, but you need to find the Violet and Orange wires on the alarm that control the Option 4 input of the remote. Take a look in the manual of the alarm and the module to match the desciptions. You will only use 2 of the three remaining wires on the module. I will post a match diagram when I get home and can re look at the books.

any updates?

The red/white wire of the module connects to the Violet/Black wire of the alarm - This wire is the Validy channel of both the Module and the Alarm.

The Orange wire of the module connects to the Orange/Black wire of the Alarm - This is the Ground-When-Armed of both the module and the alarm.

The colors are specific to the Viper 791XV, but if you reference the Validty Channel and the Ground-when-armed channel you should be fine for any alarm.

And what about us with the factory alarm???

Which wires do we have to cut an where to connect the red/white and the orange wires of the module???

I have bought 2 modules and I am waiting for that information before to install...

nothing with the factory alarm. and why did you buy 2 modules. you only need one for the windows

It was a good offer and i want to do auto both driver side and passenger side switches...

where can i find the factory alarm wires that lock the door locks when I press the lock button on my remote???

you can either choose to connect to the motor wires in the door, but they are momentary pulses of the positive type. also you can connect to the door lock trigger, located in the driver's door kick area, lt green in color, negative pulse. again, the pulse is a momentary pulse, and both lock and unlock are triggered through this wire.

you can either choose to connect to the motor wires in the door, but they are momentary pulses of the positive type. also you can connect to the door lock trigger, located in the driver's door kick area, lt green in color, negative pulse. again, the pulse is a momentary pulse, and both lock and unlock are triggered through this wire.

So does this mean that it is in fact possible to wire a factory remote to close the windows upon locking? I know of course you'll need the auto-window unit, but it would seem pretty straightforward. Is this the case, or am I missing something?

it may be possible, you would also need a pulse timer relay, but not only would it roll the windows up when you armed the alarm, it would also roll the windows up if the lock button was pressed,

interesting. That would be awesome if one could roll up windows in proportion to holding down the lock button. I'll try it on my car once I get that auto-up unit and figure out which wires go where.

Thank you for this DIY. My wife has a mazdaspeed6 with auto up/down windows and for a while we only had her car (I shipped my 8 first when we moved to Germany) and I really got use to the auto up function that my 8 lacks.

Now I just have to collect up the parts I need.

Awesome DIY Lurch!!! :ylsuper: I think I'll do this at the same time as when I install my puddle lamps (http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=99876).

thank you, i wish you luck, just make sure you take your time. its well worth the effort.

Did anyone try to do this to factory remote yet? i would be really interested in this. In fact i was dating a girl with a crappy VW Golf and she had it from the factory.

I hear you man. I want to be able to justify this add-on, and I think remote-closing the windows would be just the ticket to do so.

You know, as an aside, if someone could find the wire that is pulsed when you hit the lock button for the second time (to make the car chirp), that would be a great signal for the window-up command. The only problem I see is that the auto-window-up module probably won't have power after you open the door to get out. If anyone can figure out a way around this, then I think we'd be in business. :)

I actually just read that the unit is already wired to hook up to a security system to automatically close two windows upon locking the car.

I hear you man. I want to be able to justify this add-on, and I think remote-closing the windows would be just the ticket to do so.

You know, as an aside, if someone could find the wire that is pulsed when you hit the lock button for the second time (to make the car chirp), that would be a great signal for the window-up command. The only problem I see is that the auto-window-up module probably won't have power after you open the door to get out. If anyone can figure out a way around this, then I think we'd be in business. :)

as to the pulse from the factory alarm, as i stated in my earlier post in this same thread, it is not possible to just use the "arm" wire from the factory alarm to roll the windows. the 530t modules needs a constant ground signal to activate the windows. now it may be possible to use a pulse timer relay, dei part number 528t. the only hitch with this is is that the factory alarm wire, which is green/red, located in the drivers kick panel, is also the factory alarm disarm wire. i wouldnt even know how to extract the proper signal to trigger the pulse timer relay.

as to constant power, please reference link below and text copied from my DIY


link (http://home.comcast.net/~c_wrzesniewski/windows_mod_015s.jpg)



And here with the 2 t-taps for power and ground. To determine the power wire, use your multimeter set to DC volts, with one lead attached to a good ground, and the key turned to the on position. This circuit will only have 12 volts when the key is turned on, so if you desire to also use the module to allow control of the windows from an aftermarket alarm system, you must find a constant 12 volt source. Either you can run a wire into the vehicle through the door boot (it’s a royal pain in the ass)or you can tap the orange wire at the power amplifier in the door for the speaker (you can use either one).

Ahh I get it now. Sorry to have you explain it again man, I'm a little dense I guess. Does this mean that if I were to tap the factory alarm wire, that there would be a chance of the window unit messing with/disarming the alarm system?

no, not at all. at least i dont believe so.

what will happen, if you tap the factory alarm wire, is that when you arm the alarm, the factory alarm wire will pulse to ground for a split second, then when you disarm the factory alarm, the same wire will pulse again.

That is right but i have been doing some research here at work today (way too tired to do real work) and i found the TR-7 from Pac-audio. basically it is an IC controlled relay circuit that allows you to program it for a variety of functions. But the one i am most interested in is #15. This one allows for a user programmable number of pulses (+ or -) in 5 secs that will output constant voltage (+ or -) for a user defined time frame. This way i could hook this trigger up to say the door lock pulse to door lock motor and the auto window up to this device. That way when i hit the lock say 3 times, it would automatically roll the windows up.

http://www.pac-audio.com/products/productsCatagory.asp?mmSearch=Trigger%20Modules

that may work, but i am unsure. give it a shot and let us know.

Well thats it then i need to get these and do the install then. Ill keep you guys posted on what i find out.

no, not at all. at least i dont believe so.

what will happen, if you tap the factory alarm wire, is that when you arm the alarm, the factory alarm wire will pulse to ground for a split second, then when you disarm the factory alarm, the same wire will pulse again.

Again, forgive my ineptitude, but why would that be a deal breaker? If one were to tap into the alarm wire for signal to do an auto-up on both windows, that would mean that when you arm the alarm the windows would roll up. When you disarm the alarm, wouldn't the windows get the signal to go up, but being that they're up they'd just do nothing? Either way, I like the sound of this other solution better ^.

that should work as well, but i just dont like working things twice as hard as needed. just my opinion. give it a shot.

i agree...besides you need to buy a timer module anyway to give the window module a long enough pulse to close the windows all the way.

Ok here is my idea...... Im a MECP installer and have delt with this module on several occasions.

Go to www.the12volt.com and click on the "Diagrams" tab.
Scroll all the way to the bottom of the page where the last box of links are.
In this box you will find how to convert a momentary pulse to a constant pulse.
This takes a single negative pulse and converts it to a constant +12 volts output. In this same box it will also tell you how to convert +12 volts to a ground. So simply put the two together and you get a momentary negative pulse which creates a constant negative pulse. Just connect the momentary input to your factory alarm arm (green wire with a red stripe located in the driver kick panel) to the input wire on the 530t and the rest is magic. When you arm the alarm the windows go up.

PS: I was going to do a diagram but the computer here at work is very limited. Sorry!

Actually the 530t doesn't work like this. The - when armed needs signal until the windows are all the way up. It is not a pulse. I checked this out when i did the install this afternoon. To make it work with just factory i used the PAC-audio TR-7. This device is a programmable trigger module. I set it up to take a double pulse input and output a steady signal for 5 secs. It has seperate wires for + and - inputs and outputs so it doesn't matter what type of signal you feed it or what it will output. So i used the Factory door lock pulse signal that goes to the door lock actuator. This is a Red/Blue wire in the connector on the lower left of the drivers door. I hooked this to the green (+ input) of the TR-7. I also hooked the TR-7 white (- output) to the orange (- when armed) of the 530t. The only other thing i did different was to use the orange wire on the Bose Amp for power since this is always on. It works like a charm. When you double tap the lock on the doors within 5 secs the windows go up.

I plan on getting another TR-7 and hooking this to the unlock signal (red wire one down from unlock). This one will be set up for triple signal and 5 sec out. So if i triple unlock the doors the windows go down.

BTW Thanks Lurch a ton for doing this DIY and your help. I have been wanting this for so long and now it works great!

That's so great that you actually did this! I'll have to buy a TR-7 or two now!

Anyone install a 530 or 529 for the sunroof yet? I got it all hooked up but something is wrong. When i open or close the module clicks on then right back off. So it opens all the way because of the factory one touch for the sunroof, but it only moves a little bit for each time you hit the close button.

Anyone have a working link to this DIY?

Working on it, have contacted Lurch.

If not, I have as files and can email.

S

Anyone install a 530 or 529 for the sunroof yet? I got it all hooked up but something is wrong. When i open or close the module clicks on then right back off. So it opens all the way because of the factory one touch for the sunroof, but it only moves a little bit for each time you hit the close button.

yes, a little search turns up this

http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=101529&highlight=sunroof

but here is a direct link, enjoy

http://home.comcast.net/~c_wrzesniewski/sunroofmod.htm

But the window link:

http://home.comcast.net/~c_wrzesniewski/windowsmod.htm

isn't working.

But the window link:

http://home.comcast.net/~c_wrzesniewski/windowsmod.htm

isn't working.

yes, i know. for some reason the windowsmod.htm file got deleted. i am working on resolving this. please bear with me, as i am working all day today. hopefully i will have it up and running by tomorrow

up and available again. sorry everyone that tried to access the page.

Once again, Lurch comes thru!!

You still 'Da Man' :mdrmed: !!

S

Thank you! I just recently bought RX8 and there is more things to mod! Класно зделано!

If you just wanted the passanger button on drivers side as an auto down, couldn't just install the stock drivers side button ? or does it actually need the module ?

^ Yeah! Please if anyone knows if the above will work????

tell you guys what, you buy me the part, ill try it out and do a diy if i can make it work

someone do it for me please, i hate pullin door panels, i always snap those damn retaining clips on the panel!!!!!!

Any way of getting the link active again?

link works fine

Well, wasn't this thread just the greatest find in the world... I've had my 8 for almost 2 years, and this will be the first electrical job that I do on it. Like others who posted on here, my desire to search out this thread stemmed from driving the Mazda(and/or Speed) 6. I suppose I'm either lazy or spoiled, but the automated-up functionality is one of the biggest upsets on my list of factory absences (along with the auto-close sunroof, next on my list of to-dos...)

I just ordered the 530t and PAC Audio TR-7 through Amazon for a combined total of around $75 with shipping... About $125 cheaper than I figured this job would cost me.

I'm on the west coast next week, but will be back to do this install on/around March 21st. As such, I'll let you all know then (for whomever is still reading this thread) how it went. Thanks in advance for the time and energy you put into writing out the DIY (lurch) and the addendums re: the PAC Audio TR-7 (robbz).

Wow thats a great price for all 3. I think I spent about 100. Let me know if you need more help with the install because I don't think anyone else did it. Here is the link to the other thread where I detail up and down and adding the sunroof using the TR-7's. I just want to point out that Lurch doesnt recommend doing it this way, however I feel that because the sunroof motor already has overload protection it is fine. I have had mine like this for 1.5 years and all is still good.

http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=100712

Well, the install of the 530t went through with no incident. Had the whole job done in around 30 minutes. Then I started to work on the TR-7.... :uhh:

Lesson Number 1: Read the instructions first. And read them well. I thought I read the entire document perfectly, until I realized that I overlooked the part at the top of Page 2 stating READ THIS SECTION BEFORE INSTALLATION. Reading this section first will help to reduce the number of technical support calls that we receive. Go figure, I overlooked that part initially...

I'll have to take a look at the device when I get home later, as I threw in the towel and decided to revisit the install sometime this week, but here's a rough draft. I bridged the red wire into the 12v constant power (orange wire) running to the Bose amplifier. I then threw a spade connector on the end of the brown wire for easier contact, and tried programming the device by "pulsing" the brown wire to the door latch bolt (for ground). I was able to illuminate the LED in doing so (which, by the way, is nearly IMPOSSIBLE to see when you're doing this install outside in the middle of a sunny afternoon), and tried to program and set it to Feature #11, with 3 input pulses to trigger output, for a constant output of 5 seconds. Unfortunately, I was never able to get the TR-7 to accept the feature code and move to the next step.

From my understanding, I was supposed to "pulse" the brown wire 11 times, wait three seconds, and then I'd receive 3 flashes back as confirmation of setting that feature... I never received those 3 flashes. I tried doing a number of feature codes (as low as #2) to test, but was never able to receive the feedback indicating the feature had been set.

Did I hook the Red wire up to the wrong power source? Also, was I supposed to have any additional wires connected during the programming mode? From my understanding, AFTER I program the TR-7 I, hook it up with the following configuration:

Use a tap-in on the green wire from the TR-7 to the Red/Blue wire from the door control (for wiring to the lock button), then run the White wire from the TR-7 through a tap-in on the orange (12v) wire from the Bose Amplifier (for a constant power source). Ground another colored wire (I currently forget), and you should be good to go.

Does that above configuration sound correct, assuming I'm actually able to program the TR-7? And why can't I program the TR-7? :banghead:

I didn't mention on the board, but i know when I programmed it i used the power supply of my cable modem. Check around your house for small electronic devices you should be able to find one that uses 12V. Of course i recommend checking the voltage with a multimeter to make sure you get it right. This will solve your daylight problem too. Read the other thread i started for this specific mode. I put more detailed programming instructions for the TR-7. There are also more instructions on the whole thing. I started with just closing the windows, and then added opening the windows, and both ways for the sunroof too.

http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?p=2370462

oh and you didnt mention it, but there is a switch on the TR-7 to switch to programming mode did you flip this? Also i cant remember offhand, but the other thread says i used option 15 not 11.

If you just wanted the passanger button on drivers side as an auto down, couldn't just install the stock drivers side button ? or does it actually need the module ?

I have tried this and just the button won't work. The switch behind it is completely different and the physical switch won't come off. If anyone wants pictures or anything of the inside of the switch mechanism let me know as I currently have a spare.

hay this is a really cool DIY how do you get the remote to control thew windows im guessing it has to be programmed

doesnt the jap rx8 has the auto-up and down? I recall reading the adjustement procedure for it in the service manual... I wonder if we can only use their button..

Great thread by the way, really detailed and great photo's.