I know the manual says 1st oil change at 5000 or 7500 miles. But who thinks it's a good idea to get a first oil change before then? I'm thinking about having it changed at 1000 miles, then every 5000 after that.

I plan on getting mine done at around 1000 miles. I voted for 1001-1500, because I'll probably get it done on the way to work the morning after it turns 1000.

Why? Because the initial breakin period is the time most likely to produce metal particulates in your oil and filter, as things settle in and conform to each other. That's why we have a break-in period, after all. I want those out of the system well before 5000 miles.

Just seemed like a good idea to me.

Vince

I agree w/eccles. That's what I do with all me new cars. I've only had 2 BTW....

Two more poling ideas:

What type of oil will you be using with your RX8?
1) Synthetic
2) Non-Synthetic

What weight oil will you be using with your RX8?
1) 5W-20
2) Other

Somebody, please make these polls happen... I'm not sure how and don't have the time to learn at the moment.

At 2,000 miles
Au Natural 5W-20

I called Mazda and someone there told me that synthetic is not recomended for the RX8. Don't know if this information is reliable. Since synthetic mobil 1 is the second best oil on the market, after amsoil (which costs 8-10 dollars a quart), where mobil costs 4.99/quart, I will go with non-synthetic, and change it more often.
I will use castrol GTX and change every 2000 miles, 1200 for first change. What other brands of do you other RX-8 owners use?

PS This is my first post, picked up the car last Tuesday.

Every car I have owned i have gotten the oil changed after the breakin period. I can't say that it makes a difference but I haven't lost an engine yet doing it. I know that if their is wear in the engine during breakin then their are small particles from that process either in the oil or trapped in the filter. It can't hurt to remove them and place clean oil.

I'll be changing the oil on Thursday, at about 1200 km - ~750 miles. Friday, I'm leaving on our 6000 km road trip to Monterey, CA and back. :cool: I'm going to use Castrol Syntec 5W30 - the best non-synthetic oil on the market! ;) Yeah, I know, Castrol markets it as a synthetic - but it doesn't use the proper PAO base stock of true synthetics like Mobil1 and Amsoil, it just uses an ultra-refined conventional base stock, so it really is just a very good, overpriced, conventional oil.

Regards,
Gordon

Probably 3000 for me (I'm only @ 600 miles now, so that could change). From what I've read, there should be no "metal shavings" during break-in with this engine. So, changing the oil before 3000 is just a waste of money. IMO

5w20 non-synth (per the owner's manual)

Who knows, maybe the clean oil is responsible for the reduction of horsepower. j/k :D

Really? I'm surprised that I'm the only one (so far) that changed my oil at 500mi.... And yes, to echo the others, 5w-20 dino is recommended.

I was told by my Honda dealer not to change the oil for the first 7000 miles due to an oil additive that was put in. Don't know if this true, but fine, I kept it out of their shop until then.

Now, when I had several RX-7's, I did change the oil every 3 months. The Rotary seems to run pretty hot.

My initial plan was 3000 miles with Castrol 5W-20. I am considering sooner though after reading these posts. I have 940 miles.

Originally posted by jonalan
5w20 non-synth (per the owner's manual)

You must have a different owners manual than I got - mine specifies API spec SL, but makes no mention of synth or non-synth. Since the Castrol Syntec I intend to use meets API SL, it would appear to meet all Mazda's requirements.

Please tell me on the page number (and the exact quote, if you will) where the owners manual explicitly states "non-synthetic oil".

Regards,
Gordon

Originally posted by Gord96BRG


You must have a different owners manual than I got - mine specifies API spec SL, but makes no mention of synth or non-synth. Since the Castrol Syntec I intend to use meets API SL, it would appear to meet all Mazda's requirements.

Please tell me on the page number (and the exact quote, if you will) where the owners manual explicitly states "non-synthetic oil".

Regards,
Gordon

To my knowledge, the manual does not specify dyno or synthetic. Though, I have talked to my mazda dealership and they told me that dyno oil is recomended over synthetic. I specifically asked them if I could use Synthetic and they said dyno, in the RX8, is preferred. That was enough for me, while I can buy some of the best dyno oil on the market for 1.29 a quart (castrol GTX on sale), versus 3.99 a quart for synthetic (mobil 1 on sale), why not use the recomended dyno oil and change it more often. I could change the dyno oil 2 times more often than the synthetic, and it would still be less expensive. I would rather change the oil every 2000 miles than every 4000 miles, it just makes sense, especially when dyno is recomended.

Originally posted by rotarymagic
why not use the recomended dyno oil and change it more often

For me, the change interval isn't a factor in my choosing synthetic. The vastly better protection during cold starts, especially at cold temperatures (ie -30), along with the better resistance to high heat are the reasons I choose synthetic. Something like 90% of engine wear occurs within the first 30 seconds of a cold start - that is where the advantage of synthetic oil pays off.

Regards,
Gordon

Originally posted by Gord96BRG


For me, the change interval isn't a factor in my choosing synthetic. The vastly better protection during cold starts, especially at cold temperatures (ie -30), along with the better resistance to high heat are the reasons I choose synthetic. Something like 90% of engine wear occurs within the first 30 seconds of a cold start - that is where the advantage of synthetic oil pays off.

Regards,
Gordon
Agreed. The long drain interval benefit for synthetic oils is the least important factor to me. The fact that it performs and protects much better than dino while it's in the engine during that interval is what matters most.

Regarding the 5w20.. I'm not going to say don't use it but do some research on which grades are recommended in Europe, Japan and Australia. The only reason it's 5w20 in North America is becuase of CAFE. Not saying that the 5w20 won't protect the engine.. but it is a new viscosity and nobody knows yet the long term effects of using a 20 weight oil in a high performance engine that revs to 9,000rpm.

Originally posted by RotorMotor
Really? I'm surprised that I'm the only one (so far) that changed my oil at 500mi.... And yes, to echo the others, 5w-20 dino is recommended.

I'm right there with you! I changed mine at 500 miles (Sunday), and will change it again at 1000, then 2500, and every 2500 afterwards.

I just want to be sure that ALL manufacturing issues, greasy handprints, etc., are all gone from my new engine.

Also, using 5w-20 Castrol. This has been my favorite oil for high revving engines since my motorcycle days.......

Also, a note to those with the Mazda issue oil filter wrench, they have changed the filter size AGAIN! The part number is the same, but the filter is smaller in diameter than the wrench, and the new wrench is not available yet. Go figure.

Just a reminder to everyone... this is a rotary engine.
The Oil is injected into the chamber and burns off with the fuel. The reason Synthetic is not recomended is because it does not burn off as cleanly as dino oil. Plus, since the oil is injected into the chamber... I don't see how the break in particles can get into the oil supply. I could be wrong about this, but from what I've read I don't think I am. Therefore, I will follow the manuals instructions of 5000. I think they stated that number just for a comfort zone. I think the car could go much longer without.

-JiM

Originally posted by j1mb0x99
The reason Synthetic is not recomended is because it does not burn off as cleanly as dino oil.

Sorry, but once again - "not recommended" by whom? My owners manual makes absolutely no mention of synthetic either positive or negative - all it says is API SL spec.

Synth not burning as cleanly as dino? I call "urban myth" on this one - synth oil is still oil, only it's ultra-refined and doesn't have the wax and other crap left in the dino oil. Some like Mobil1 and Amsoil use PAO base stock which is truly synthetic, others like Castrol Syntec use ultra-refined crude (dino) which is still just oil, only cleaned up much better.

There's a popular chart comparing synth and dino oils from several years ago that has made the rounds of the auto forums on the internet - aside from higher flash points, it shows that most of the synthetics have zero ash when burned, whereas most of the dino oils showed ash residue. So which actually burns cleaner?

Regards,
Gordon

Originally posted by Gord96BRG
Sorry, but once again - "not recommended" by whom? My owners manual makes absolutely no mention of synthetic either positive or negative - all it says is API SL spec.Well, since you ask, at least by Mazda Canada, apparently. Someone posted this leaflet (http://www.snikte.net/images/rx-8/rx8info.pdf) here on the forum a couple of weeks ago.

Originally posted by j1mb0x99
The reason Synthetic is not recomended is because it does not burn off as cleanly as dino oil.OK, this comment has been floated around a lot, but it is it true? Sure, synthetic has a higher operational heat envelope, but isn't that well-exceeded within the rotary chamber during combustion, thus burning it up just as completely as conventional oil?

Is there any evidence that synthetic actually leaves behind anything more than non-synthetic in this engine? To the contrary, it's purported that synthetics deposit less varnishes/sludge/build-up in an engine over conventional engine oil.

My guess (as good as any other I've seen thus far!) is that Mazda recommends conventional over synthetic oil because it is "good enough" and provides a cheaper owner's operating cost, period.

Plus, since the oil is injected into the chamber... I don't see how the break in particles can get into the oil supply.I don't think there is a separate oil system solely for the chamber injectors. What goes through the rest of the engine can also go through the injectors.

Edit -- too slow, I see Gord96BRG beat me to it...