Hey all you new engine owners, have you noticed a difference in either power or drivability with the new engines over the old ones? What flash will the new engine be shipped with? When they relace the motor does your old transmission, clutch stay in the car??

Sorry for all the questions, get mine back tommorow after waiting 45 DAYS.

My assumption is that the engine swaps have retained the original ECU, clutch and transmission, therefore the engine would be run at whatever flash the ECU currently has.

Rotary engines are notorious for long break-in periods, so you will most likely not see any benefits from a new engine for quite a while. Keep in mind there's also that damned 20k Mile switch.

The rest of the driveline - flywheel, clutch, tranny, etc. - is unrelated to the engine, and would normally not be replaced, nor should it need to be.

I have 1000 miles on my NEW engine.

No big difference from the old one so far

I really did not expect there to be one.


Runs nice so far.

I was told that my ECU was shipped back to Mazda Corp in CA for a reflash when my engine was being swapped.

I would assume that I have the "S" flash now.


I was also told that it would take about 1750-2000 miles to fully break in the new engine before it would really start to run at full potential.

We shall see.

Rob in Vegas

So the big question to you, Rob, is.... Why did this engine need replacing, and what corrections did they make, if any, to ensure the new one doesn't have the same problem? BTW, I'm not expecting you to have an answer for this, as I'm sure you weren't given one :)

Why was my old engine replaced?

It melted!

Well....not really.

When it got super hot here in Vegas this summer, my engine failed.


Huge power loss, grinding, stalled, would not run over 30mph.

Took it in and they said that it had over heated and that my seals were warped.

Lost compression.

Engine toast.


How did they fix it?

Put a NEW engine in a cross your fingers.

Do they have a "real" fix for the problem in hot climates? No.

Will my new engine eventually fail the same as my first engine? Yes.


Solution? Sell the car or don't drive it in the summer.


Rob in Vegas.

Did you ever overheat the engine? What conditions were you driving the car under (ie. average rpm's, ambient temps, fuel octane, sitting in traffic, hwy crusing, etc)?

I have 1000 miles on my NEW engine.

No big difference from the old one so far

I really did not expect there to be one.


Runs nice so far.

I was told that my ECU was shipped back to Mazda Corp in CA for a reflash when my engine was being swapped.

I would assume that I have the "S" flash now.


I was also told that it would take about 1750-2000 miles to fully break in the new engine before it would really start to run at full potential.

We shall see.

Rob in Vegas

I am in the exact same boat as you (In Vegas as well). I am going to write to Mazda and demand to konw what they are doing to fix the VEGAS engine problem & there is a problem. If not I want a full 100,000 mile warranty or they can buy back the car. I will give them the options. If they do not do A or B then I will consult an attorney and inform them that I intend to write to ALL car publications in the western world about the Vegas engine problem.

New engine feels good. I little tight but I only have 600 miles on it so far.

Rotary engines are notorious for long break-in periods, so you will most likely not see any benefits from a new engine for quite a while. Keep in mind there's also that damned 20k Mile switch.

The rest of the driveline - flywheel, clutch, tranny, etc. - is unrelated to the engine, and would normally not be replaced, nor should it need to be.

This is wierd. But since they did the engine replacement. I have noticed that the noise I used to hear coming from the throw out bearing or clutch is gone. The car is much quiter on idle and no wirring noises before I depress the clutch. It sounds just as quiet with the clucth in or out. Do not know why..

Did you ever overheat the engine? What conditions were you driving the car under (ie. average rpm's, ambient temps, fuel octane, sitting in traffic, hwy crusing, etc)?


No, I never overheated the engine.

Never flooded it.

Never stalled before the engine blew.

Mostly city driving. Some highway.

Ran mostly 91 octane, sometimes 89.

Average RPM - 6k - 7k before a shift - I have a manual transmission.

Ambiemt temps = summer here is 100 to 118

winter here is 35 to 75


Rob in Vegas

.... Keep in mind there's also that damned 20k Mile switch.

I assume you are refering to the engine swap around 20k? If not, I'm curious to know some details :)