Car stalled twice yesterday while I was stopped... AC was on both times and it took me about 5 min to start it up each time... Took it to mazda dealership they told me they have a new ecu flash and monday they will install it w/e... Today I was driving and it stalled again. I was wondering if anyone had this problem? By the way I have recently installed the RB Intake.

Hey, I have been having the same problem with my 04 AT. It would stall and die at a stop light. I did notice a few things that I could use to signal when it was going to start this. 1. When the AT would shift from 2nd to 3rd or 3rd to 4th, it would just hang in the lower gear and not shift. 2. Next would be noise from the engine, kind of rattling, almost like knocking, but higher pitched and only at high RPM (>5000). 3. comming to a stop, it would drop RPMs under 750 and then die. The only way to restart, is to use the flooded engine restart, press peddle to the floor and then turn key and start for 10 sec, release key, release peddle and turn off for 5 sec. then try to start normally. This works every time, but after restart it has no power.

So, this happend again and died three times Thursday afternoon, so I took it straight to the Mazda Dealer. I had it in also in early July and all they did was reflash the PCM (88K flash). But it was late and the techs had left for the day. So I had to bring the car in Friday morning. They test drove it and it did the same thing to them. So they flashed the PCM with the latest and apologized that they did not flash it with the correct version before, but now with the latest (881C). Have not had any problems with it the last two days.

But if I do have more problems they indicated that they would contact Mazda NA to have them look at it.

Hopefully that will help... someone told me the car might be Vapor Locking?

arky that is not the latest flash available. no its not "vaporlocking".

Yes, I realized it was not the lastest when I read another post. But I am not sure what version (881C) is? Any help???

Ok, well it back to the dealership again, my car died on me twice yesterday on the way home from work. Same symptoms as before. I am beginning the wonder if it is a heat-related transmission problem.

Cool guys at Floyd Trailer in Ft SMith told me there is not a new Flash update... last time i got it updated was about oh 4 months ago

Ok, well it back to the dealership again, my car died on me twice yesterday on the way home from work. Same symptoms as before. I am beginning the wonder if it is a heat-related transmission problem.

Well, went to start my car at lunch today and the check engine light is now on, and will not go off. Called the dealership and I am taking the car back in the morning. I am about to the point of telling them to find the cause of the stalling or keep the car. When it stalled on Monday, I was in the middle of a 5 lane intersection at the height of rush hour, in Fayetteville with my kids in the back. Took me 3 minutes to restart the car, all the while cars were honking and I was worried about being hit. So the dealer must find the cause. Or I will be a former RX-8 owner.

Well, update on the stalling issue.

Back in Sep/Oct I had the same issues again with stalling when coming to a stop. Took it back to the dealer and they sent the ECM/PCM to Mazda USA in Cali to have it reflashed/rebuilt. Dealer put in bigger oil-cooler/new plugs and had me swith to 10W-30 oil. That same day on the way home it stalled in the driveway. But, the weather turned cooler and I did not have a single problem until the weather started getting hot again in the last month.

Last weekend driving around town and on the I540 with the A/C on, when pulled off and stopped at a light, the car died. This happend 3 more times over the next hour including stalling in the driveway of the Mazda Dealership. They want me to bring it back in to have it checked again. This is getting old.

A few new observations on the stalling...., First, when this happens it is usually over 85 degrees outside, second, the A/C is on, third the center console gets very hot. (more so than the normal coffee warner hot), forth, the car will start fine and drive normally after sitting for a half hour or so, just before the trouble starts the engine will idle very rough and there will be a loss of power and prolonged pause as the AT changes gears.

Does anyone have any ideas that I can give the dealer as to the cause? I am starting to think that maybe the A/C is causing extra load on the engine or that the Cat may be causing back pressure problems. Note that the CEL never comes on when this happens.

Any info would be great.

The system should recognize that the A/C is on and adjust the idle accordingly.

I would suggest that you look into the lemon laws in AR (http://autopedia.com/html/LemonLaw/AR_lemonlaw.html). The dealer is obviously not able to determine the problem and correct it. Some lemon laws kick in after 3 trips to a dealer for repairs for the same problem that the dealer is unable to resolve.

You should also do a search of the forum for threads dealing with the known engine failure problem with the AT version of the car. If your dealer has not checked engine compression, you should SUGGEST that they do that considering the heat-related engine problem with the AT cars in warmer climates. If they're not aware of that issue, they need to contact Mazda tech support for guidance.

And finally, it would be worth your while to go ahead and call Mazda North American Operations, Customer Support (800-222-5500) to request their assistance with this continuing and unresolved issue.

A few new observations on the stalling...., First, when this happens it is usually over 85 degrees outside, second, the A/C is on, third the center console gets very hot. (more so than the normal coffee warner hot), forth, the car will start fine and drive normally after sitting for a half hour or so, just before the trouble starts the engine will idle very rough and there will be a loss of power and prolonged pause as the AT changes gears.

Any info would be great.

Just a total guess. but did they check for a sticky Thermostat? I'd think the dash getting hot would have something to do with the it or just over heating period. Again I dont own an 8 but on some cars, maybe most cars the radiator water is run into the dash to provide the heat for the heater. Maybe thats why the dash is getting really hot, as you overheat its bringing the water into the car hotter and hotter.
Normaly a car dies after driving and stopping cause it floods out on gas, or becase it looses the cool air from moving and over heats in seconds. Is the raidiator/condincer or whatever for the AC mounted infront of the radiator for the engine? Is the A/C fan turning on when you turn the A/C on?

The A/C is a heat extractor, its gonna take the hot air inside the car and carry it outside. If it's dumping that hot air infront of the radiator and the fans arent running or something that could be what the problem is. How does the radiator look?

The easy test is to just start the car and let it warm up for 5min. W/o the A/c pop the hood and listen to see if the radiator fan is comming on to keep the motor cool. It should be turning on and off every few min. If that's happening turn on the a/c and see if another fan is comming on now. The a/c fan should come on right away. If that seems to be working then, sorry. :dunno:

I dont own a 8 I just been reading up cause I was thinking about maybe getting 1.. but everytime I read I become very discouraged.

Anyways good luck

^ Don't worry too much about what you read here. If you had 10 *consecutive* pages of spurious stalls, then worry.. this forum reflects the 8's in pretty good shape, actually.. sure, you get the posts about blown this and leaking that and rattling that other thing, but there's no sets of widespread problems.. nothing major, anyway. If the 8 would really have a big problem, it'd be reflected here, and it is not. It just *seems* that way because of the ratio of loud complainers (valid or not) vs. quiet enjoyers.

Using a forum to gauge a car's quality is kinda shoddy, imo.. the ones with problems rarely bother posting, the ones with problems will post loudly...

Just my two cents.

To the original poster.

Pardon the bizarre question, but had you just filled up your gas tank right before the stalls, by any chance?

I'm trying to track down a very shy gremlin...

Well, funny that you mention the full gas tank idea. When this first started happening, it was only after I had filled up the tank, but later on it was more random and mostly occured on a half tank or below so I tossed that idea out.

My 04 6-speed almost stalled this evening at a stoplight, I had just filled up with gas 5 minutes earlier. I also had the A/C on 2 and recirculate and it was roughly 88 degrees outside. This is the first time it has ever occured and I am thinking it is just a fluke with my car. Like I said though it almost stalled, somehow it caught itself and acted normal after that.

Does this occur during stop and go traffic where its mostly STOP?

since you just installed an intake I would check your MAF. make sure its pluged in and not blocked.

I have the same problem. Dealer sent PCM to be reprogramed but stalling continues.
AT, engine warm ,idle drops, AC makes it worse, hold break at a light,fan,wipers,lights-
All these put a load on the idle speed. Car does not adjust quick enough and Stall.
Hard to start.
Has anyone been able to solve this issue?
After Seafoam car runs fine for a week. Driving in a lower gear seam to extend time between events but is hell on gas .

i would check for a vacuum leak somewhere. i had an issue a couple of weeks ago where i developed a vacuum leak in the intake system, and sometimes when coming to a stop, it would stall, very intermittant, but once i fixed the leak, no more stalls

Friday at the dealer the car lost power and stalled with the teck driving. Now they believed me.I was told Mazda USA authorized a new shortblock.
Two years of computer downloads and now a rebuild. I was told its a heat and friction issue. (apex seals)
Still not sure this will cure my problem but its under warranty at 44,000. Car was built Oct 04 ,AT, Completely stock.
Driving the car untill 27 Sept and 28 when work is to done.

So instead of rebuilding the tranny they are replacing it after my talk at the dealership... they said they couldn't replace it then i was like ok have your rep call me and tell me that it cant be done... not 3 min after i pull out of the dealership they call me and say they are gonna replace the tranny.... 3 MIN!!!

My 2004 AT is having a similar problem. After going in 5 times in the last two years for stalling, it finally got to the point that I can reproduce the problem on demand.

Drive car on freeway uphill (very slight incline) holding 60+ mph, it will downshift and the RPMs will surge near but not exceeding redline as it regains speed and upshift again. After that happens twice within one or two traffic light stops the car dies in idle.

Managed to do it with mechanic and car computer instrumented yesterday, so hoping for a diagnosis from Mazda national today.

Previous times in the shop resulted in new ignition coils, plugs, and several PCM updates including the send it back to Irvine that others reported.

I had them compression test and it was normal according to the chart posted in the forum:

9.1 9.2 8.9 254 RPM
8.3 8.3 8.6 255RPM

That is strange, it sounds to me like there is something just not right in the programming of the ECU. I really think that Mazda should raise all of our idles up to about 950rpm's, then the car would sit and idle so much smoother, and maybe there would be less of the AT's stalling.

My 2004 AT is having a similar problem. After going in 5 times in the last two years for stalling, it finally got to the point that I can reproduce the problem on demand.

Drive car on freeway uphill (very slight incline) holding 60+ mph, it will downshift and the RPMs will surge near but not exceeding redline as it regains speed and upshift again. After that happens twice within one or two traffic light stops the car dies in idle.

Managed to do it with mechanic and car computer instrumented yesterday, so hoping for a diagnosis from Mazda national today.

Previous times in the shop resulted in new ignition coils, plugs, and several PCM updates including the send it back to Irvine that others reported.

I had them compression test and it was normal according to the chart posted in the forum:

9.1 9.2 8.9 254 RPM
8.3 8.3 8.6 255RPM


Got the "T" flash???

Got the "T" flash???

I don't know how to tell which Flash I have, but it was flashed twice in the last four weeks...

Outcome of the story is that Mazda approved engine replacement today, so I will be joining the new engine club in a couple weeks.

no it wasnt -even if it needed a flash once that one was done there wasnt a new code to flash it with. there hasnt been a new one in 10 months.

no it wasnt -even if it needed a flash once that one was done there wasnt a new code to flash it with. there hasnt been a new one in 10 months.


Who was it that said timing is everything? :wink2: :cool:

Thank goodness I'm not the only one with this problem... it has to do with A/C and the heat. Everytime the temperature gets hot... car would surge at around the 5-6k RPM range.. can't accelerate. When you get to a stop light or stop sign, it would wobble, then shut off. 3+ dealerships cannot resolve this. Mazda USA hasn't been helpful, sent me a electronic letter stating that I should just bring it to the dealership. (Btw, I sent a hand written letter hoping it would catch their attention that this is a problem, but to no avail.)

Thank goodness I'm not the only one with this problem... it has to do with A/C and the heat. Everytime the temperature gets hot... car would surge at around the 5-6k RPM range.. can't accelerate. When you get to a stop light or stop sign, it would wobble, then shut off. 3+ dealerships cannot resolve this. Mazda USA hasn't been helpful, sent me a electronic letter stating that I should just bring it to the dealership. (Btw, I sent a hand written letter hoping it would catch their attention that this is a problem, but to no avail.)

As far as I can tell the moral of the story is that intermittent problems like this that require environmental conditions and can not be easily diagnosed by a CEL reading or standard test like compression, you have to replicate with a Mazda certified technician in the vehicle to get effective resolution. When you think you have a high probablility of replicating the problem go to the dealer and get a ride along (better yet have them instrument the car so there is a record to send to Mazda).

Well I am getting this to happen on demand now. I am going back to the dealer in the next week and have them ride with me and show them exactly what is happening. It was 75 here yesterday and I get the car to die after stopping after driving it around town for about 30 min. We have lots of hills and frequent stop n go traffic. I am tempted to try and work a deal for a new 06 and just let MNA have my 04 as an example of a problem car that can not be diagonsed with just a cursory check at the dealership.

As I have posted elsewhere, I am having a new engine installed as I write this. MNA finally agreed to replace the engine as a last resort. I will post on the success of this new engine in the next couple of weeks.

I would also like to point out that Superior Mazda in Bentonville, AR has been nothing but great thru this whole experince. They have always taken the time to listen to my complaints and then try to solve my problem. Plus there new location and shop is just awsome, clean, modern, and comfortable.

I am in the 300s of miles on my new engine. Wow I have been missing out, no longer does the AT downshift to maintain highway speeds going uphill.

They really just have to come up with a better/faster/more accurate diagnostic method for this problem. It took at least 4-5 trips to the dealer before they finally got MNA to authorize engine replacement, after I had stalled in the most unfortunistic places.

Everything is better, except the my new front windshield crack from some truck on the highway last weekend. Argh......

I have been having this same problem with my 04 MT. When I turn the AC on and drive it for about 20 min I have some rough idle, stalls at stop lights, and lose throttle response. I did notice that the center console was EXTREMELY hot. It has even done this with the AC off. I took it in once to have it looked at, among some transmission stuff. The rebuilt my tranny and said they fixed my AC issues, but driving home when I got the the first stop light off the highway STALL and right before turning in my driveway STALL. Im going to the dealership next wed. Im going to tell them to keep my car until its fixed. I have 42000 miles on it now and have been having this problem the last 9 months. Does anyone else have a sound coming from the engine under acceleration that sound like marbles in a can rattleing??

50 miles on new engine..., like driving a new car, I did not realize just how bad the old engine was performing..

I now have 1000 miles on new short block (46000 ) I have o4 A/T
I was told bad rotor at the time but replaced the block as well (they paid)
A few issues (oil leak,coolant leak,ECL-code said misfire rotor#1

Look up new engine club tread the list is growing
Car is running well and picked up 1 MPG
The dealer will have to duplicate before they will do anything.
Try short trips 10 min or less let set for 5 min then city traffic idling stop and go.
Hot weather makes it happen easier.
good luck