speaking of driving.

We plan on moving to back to VA. Can a turbo RX8 handle a 21 hour drive? hehe:)

scott is real good mechanic

speaking of driving.

We plan on moving to back to VA. Can a turbo RX8 handle a 21 hour drive? hehe:) Mine has (easily) done 9 hours twice in a week. Does that count?

scott is real good mechanic
Uh, OK. And Ted is an alcoholic.:confused:

hey maniac do you go to any carshows around you ... ??? not to change the subjesct or anything

hey maniac do you go to any carshows around you ... ??? not to change the subjesct or anything Yeah, from tme to time. Since my car is pretty subtle, it goes over the head of most judges, so I'm not competitive. I actually had an SCCA judge argue with me when I told him my turbo setup was custom. He insisted it was stock. Idiot.
How can you be a judge if you don't know the cars?
I'll be doing the OC show in August. I'll probably be at the select show at Dream in DC on June 4th, too. Rotorfest in July. I don't know what else.

Uh, OK. And Ted is an alcoholic.:confused:

I heard that about Ted as well...that crazy, drunken SOB...

MazdaManiac hahahha lol. 9 hours sounds good. that probably when I plan to take a break :) Better yet, maybe I'll do a road trip and met up with other rx8 owner on the way there :P

Dang, I finally throw in the Boost Gauge. Thank goodness I am not getting the boost spike
looks like I am constantly get 5 :) . I'll load maniac's map once I get the tool.

anyways now the car sometime stalls when in N at the Light. Could it be the turbulance Air that Phil had and fixed with adding the screen? or is it a leaking vacuum hose the gauge is connnect to?

Stall here and there is alot better then getting stuck at 3000 rpm :).

I talked to the Greddy Techs today and they helped me tune the BOV and the idle problem seems to be solved also I explained to him how it wasn't holding boost, he said that I had to have the DSC turned off to reach high boost numbers. Well it worked in a way I can get up to a steady 5psi without dropping but still can't get to 7psi without bouncing on and off the throttle. Keep in mind I am still on the factory Greddy Map, should I load Maniac's and see if that does it. I found a friend of a friend who knows turbos pretty well hopefully he can look at it tomorrrow, if we still can't figure it out I don't know what.
Maniac, what are you suggesting? You want to come down here? If with the help of this new guy we can't get it fixed maybe we can work something out to arrange a visist from the "Turbo Guru".

I talked to the Greddy Techs today and they helped me tune the BOV and the idle problem seems to be solved.If you're going to say the problem is solved it might help to say exactly how. That way other people can learn from your experiences.
________
Xxx Tubes (http://www.fucktube.com/)

Maniac, what are you suggesting? You want to come down here? If with the help of this new guy we can't get it fixed maybe we can work something out to arrange a visist from the "Turbo Guru".
I wouldn't mind helping out. It is the 12 hour round trip drive that I'm not really up for.:p

If you're going to say the problem is solved it might help to say exactly how. That way other people can learn from your experiences.

oh sorry, he said that the flutter noise when the BOV blows off, rather than a consatnt burst of air, is compressor surge and can be damageing, so harden the BOV until you hear the flutter and go back on turn towards soft. Get as close to flutter as you can without it actually fluttering. After I did this it seemed to hold idle much better.

Mainiac, do I need to load your map to reach 7psi, does it have anything to do with the maps, or other info stored in the emanage, since the emanage reads boost off a pressure switch as well?

No. Boost pressure is solely a function of the wastegate actuator. The E-Manage has nothing to do with it.

Horse:

My stalls sometime at idle after stopping at a light or stop signs.
I don't recall a flutter noise from the BOV. I do hear my exhaust to pop pop after letting off the gas paddle.

Horse:

My stalls sometime at idle after stopping at a light or stop signs.
I don't recall a flutter noise from the BOV. I do hear my exhaust to pop pop after letting off the gas paddle.

yes, I get the same pop pop or backfire, have you removed the dongle? Try driving wit the DSC turned off. Doing all this has allowed me to keep idle.

edit: also you may have your BOV to soft, try turning it towards hard until you hear the flutter, then take a turn back towards soft.

Horse:

No, I have not remove the dongle. Should I remove both of them?
I'll try driving with the DSC turn off.
I"ll adjust the BOV again .

thanks

I can get it above 5psi but only in spikes when I shift otherwise it levels out around 5.4 psi, it just want hold boost.

problem solved, a bolt was almost all the way out in the first pipe after the turbo. But know sometimes you can feel the car kind of act slugish, like it is fighting agaisnt me, it pulls and then fights back and pulls then jerks back, and when you mat the throttle it goes then the car lerches and goes again?

Where is the dongle and what does it do?

^get ready for flaming now:)

ok i no there is a pic of what to remove on the dongle but the pic is not that good can mm or someone else give me the wire colors that need to be removed and what color wires need to be attached to something else. ( side note the pic only shows 2 of them but i have 3 so this is realy messing with my head)

IT IS THE ONLY MODULE THAT CAN BE UNPLUGGED FROM THE HARNESS.
How tough can it be?

IT IS THE ONLY MODULE THAT CAN BE UNPLUGGED FROM THE HARNESS.
How tough can it be?

Go gettem Jeff! Just use the search button.. it's here for a reason :p


fyi.. hit the 3k miles mark.. still running great!

-Jon

Hey Jon -

Did you see in this thread:
http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=61307&page=2
that Altered was taking credit for tuning our cars? That kinda left a bad taste in my mouth.

BTW - you need to get out and drive that thing more! 3k miles?!?! I did that in the first month!

ok well sorry but all 4 CAN be unpluged and the pic does not show what color the wires are to well so i was just asking. G not have to be so nasty <---- :). but seriously i no its the one that says rx8 i was just wondering what color the wires were that need to be re ruted

All of them get unplugged and two of those on the harness get plugged into each other.
There are probably red, black and two green I'd guess? (I don't have one to look at so I don't know.)

ok thanks i think i will just have to find some one in NJ that has a clue as to what they are doing with the 8 / greddy and let them do it b 4 i f something up

If you just snap a good digital pic of the box, I can point out the wires for you.

ok will do in the am THANKS. I REALY SHOULD JUST PAY YOU to get this car running right :)

Ok I really didn't feel like digging through 136 pages so can you tell me in the video is that the sound of a blowoff valve? If so how is it affecting the way the car is running, I thought that a blowoff valve was no good for this kit? If you don't have one on then nevermind, but where is that sound coming from, oh and congrats on the kit sounds nice, good luck with it.

I'm in the finishing process of installing one of these kits myself and was wondering if anything was recommended that I do. I have everything hooked up and double checked all the hoses, bolts, wires, and mounts. The boost gauge is hooked up and installed. The emanage is connected and ready to go. The next thing I have to do is add oil and follow the steps to feed oil to the turbo. Anything that anyone can think of that I should do before, while, or after I finish this install would be great to know.

Thanks,
Jamie

spyder_doo triple check the oil line to avoid leaking / flooding.

Tighten those oil lines down!!!!!! and wrap them 3-4x around with teflon.

I just got my greddy turbo and i can't find the instructions on how to install it...PLease please if someone can help me fast,tell me..I need the instructions fast...I already told my dealer but we have 9hours difference in time..Different time zone..and i can't wait...

I would like to first start off by saying a special thanks to Philidox for all his instructions in this thread. After waiting 3 months before we had a enough free time to install the boost, it is now finally done... well, kind of.
We just spent the last two days installing the turbo, and would not have been able to do it without this thread. As most of you know by now, the greddy instructions are HORRIBLE, but luckily with the help of the board we were able to finish it. VERY BIG THANKS!!!

Ok, so here is where i'm at now.

-No CEL
-I have not removed the dongle, and have not driven it over 4k rpm yet.
-I also have not had a chance to install any of the gauges yet.
-I have not installed a BOV yet either.

Questions..
- Where did all of you mount the E-Manage? Right now it is sitting underneath my steering column. We got it in there, without having to drill any wires.
- The TCS light is on, but not the DSC. This is odd, because i never knew you could disable TCS and not DSC. Anyways, the light is on at start-up and stays on. Anyone else get this as well?
- It stalled twice; each time it was as i was coming to a stop. Anybody else have this problem?

-Harry

I just got my greddy turbo and i can't find the instructions on how to install it...PLease please if someone can help me fast,tell me..I need the instructions fast...I already told my dealer but we have 9hours difference in time..Different time zone..and i can't wait...

Here you go.
http://www.turborx8.net/video/rx8%20t%20k%20instruction.pdf

NOTE: read the instuctions on here by philodox before starting. It will save you a few hours.

- The TCS light is on, but not the DSC. This is odd, because i never knew you could disable TCS and not DSC. Anyways, the light is on at start-up and stays on. Anyone else get this as well?



The TCS light does this every time you disconnect/ connect the battery. Start the car and turn the wheel all the way to the left then all the way to the right. It should go away. It's in the owners manual.

I recommend taking the car for a nice little ride and gradually get on the pedal more. My car ran fine up to 4500 and then started acting funny. I ended up removing the dongle to fix the ruff idle and it started driving alittle better but I still had problems with jumpyness. Now I'm not really sure what's wrong with it. I think one of my ignition coils was causing all the problems but I'll let everyone know for sure when I get a new one in. If anyone has any other ideas as to why these problems are occuring please let me know.

Thanks,
Jamie

The TCS light does this every time you disconnect/ connect the battery. Start the car and turn the wheel all the way to the left then all the way to the right. It should go away. It's in the owners manual.
Oh thanks, I'll try this in a few hours when i drive back to the shop to work on the boost gauge. Oh also, your thred on how installing the turbo also saved us a lot of trouble... thank you very much for posting that.

SpyderDoo,
Until i get the gauge put in, i'm going to refrain from driving the car hard. Hopefully all is well and i won't have to remove the dongle, but we'll see. Thanks for the info.

OK, so the DSC/TCS lights are now off, but i am still having the stalling issue when the car is coming to a stop. At idle the car tends to drop too low, then the batterly light comes on. If i don't give it gas it stalls. Anyone else have this problem?

Did you do an ECU reset?

yes it was reseted when we installed the turbo.

Today i got all the gauges in along with the PTP gauge pod, and the boost gauge is connected. BTW, Defi BF gauges are freakin HOT!!! We'll connect in the Oil Pressure and Water Pressure gauges later.

The shifting at 6-8k rpm is very smooth. No bogging issues here.

The idling problems are still there, but it didn't stall when driving it this evening. I need to get this on a dyno and tuned. That now looks to be 3 weeks away. Keep the suggestions for the idling problems coming. THANKS!!!

Almost everyone that had a problem with shutting off when coming to a stop was due to the BOV not being set tight enough, but you said you haven't installed your BOV yet, so I don't know.

Definitely get it dyno tuned!
I've added a hiflow cat and found out I was running lean. So lean it was knocking in high rpm's, but I couldn't hear it on the road since my exhaust and turbo were drowning it out.
I've reloaded my dongle as per my tuner's suggestion and they've also ordered the 3rd dongle (cel fix) to come in from Greddy. I'm going to get an O2 bung installed precat for more accurate AFR's and then go back to tune it some more.

Few clips of my 8 on the dyno here. (http://videos.streetfire.net/Player.aspx?fileid=5E24FCE6-DDF9-4C24-A5AA-8F0E19609F8C&t=recent)

Adrian-1...
yes, the dyno is a must. I am ordering the BOV, and it will probably be here by the time i get a chance to get on a dyno. I can't wait to open it up and tune it. After that, i'll finally be able to open this up. Right now i am refraining from getting too deep into the boost range of the RPM band.

I'll let you know how it all goes.

-HS

Adrian what was the reason for reloading your dongle? Does your car still run the same with dongle reloaded?

Adrian what was the reason for reloading your dongle? Does your car still run the same with dongle reloaded?

The car suprisingly runs good with the dongle back in (no hesistation and smooth shifting).
I've also switched to Greddy's latest map. The tuning shop contacted Greddy and got a copy. I'm not sure how different it is, since the shop changed it by adding fuel in some areas while dyno tuning.
I reloaded it becaused the tuning shop did a greddy turbo install and dyno tune on somebody else's 8 and didn't have a problem with hesistation.

One big difference I've noticed is that the car is more driveable shortly after startup now. Before I had to wait for it to warm up before I could even go above 50mph. Couldn't go above 3k or the car would start bucking. Once the car was up to temp (5min) it drove fine.
I'm not talking about redlining it 2 mins after startup, but just getting up to the speedlimit.
I don't know if that's due to the dongle being back in or the new map.

Hey guys keep the Dongle on , its seems to run alittle lean without it... also if you don't have the third black box, install that it also helps from getting the cel when cooler out, and one more thing if you don't have a check vavle between the jet air metering line I would install one , it makes the car smoother between shifts, All these things have made mine run much better...

Of course I tweaked alittle on the maps , But I'am running 8psi and not running lean...

I installed a check valve and didn't notice and difference either way. I've since removed it. I am questioning the valve I used though thinking maybe it was not the proper valve for the job.

I believe that as long as the check valve was the same size openning( or larger) as the hose used for the the jet air metering which I believe is 5mm openning, you should be alright.. Unless it was smaller or just very cheap were it couldn't hold the pressure.. I picked mine up at a truck parts store that was for a brake booster check valve, I know that will hold any pressure... Greddy said they used one from the 94-96 240z brake booster check valve....

Anyone have english instructions on how to install the greddy oil pan???I ve got the japan installation instruction and can't read a word....please help me...
Saturday i am going for the installation

Its not hard at all. Just take the old pan of the car, and put the stuff that was on the old one in the greddy one. Just be sure to clean the engine block from the old selant.

Thanks mate..I am installing this weekend...Wish me good luck..We have a lot of job with all that extra and addons on the kit!!

Good luck on the install. I did my instalation in 2 days, around 14 hours, me and my 3 friends.
Its not so hard, but it takes time, just follow the instructions, and have a lot of tools next to you.
I had problems with turning on the car, but at the end it was just flooded, so everything is ok now, US greddy map works fine with Europe rx8.

If you will need some help, i can send you my phone number if you have some questions during the install.

I have type rs bov,oil pan,oil catch tank,profec e 0-1,ur pulleys as long with the turbo,to install these days....thanks mate...i ll pm you if needed and then call you...thanks...

Thanks mate..I am installing this weekend...Wish me good luck..We have a lot of job with all that extra and addons on the kit!!
The instructions that came with the greddy turbo kit are completely worthless. Make sure you read up on this threads instructions by philodox (i beleive its near page 10), and adrian-1's install thread.

ALSO, after cleaning the engine block, make sure to put a fresh layer of sealent (silicon) on the oil pan. RX-8 Oil Pans no longer come with a gasket, so greddy didn't send one with it either. Just make sure to seal it well.
Oh also, my greddy oil pan did not come with the necessary bolts. Check you oil pan box before starting. If you don't have it, make sure to run to your local hardware shop and pick some up.

-GOOD LUCK!!!

Next we went ahead and started putting on the oil feed line for the turbo itself. Getting the oil pressure sensor off was a pain in the butt.. not too much room to work there. The oil feed line connects to the spot the oil pressure sensor was at by using a T fitting, then the sensor plugs in on one side and the oil feed line on the other. Here are pics of the fitting and the oil line which is routed over the transmission and ready to connect to the turbo.
If I have an oil filter sandwich plate, would it be okay just to hook the turbo oil feed to it instead of going through all this trouble above? An oil filter sandwich plate goes in between the oil filter and the engine, it contains two points for sensors, etc. I have two sensors to connect to it, (oil temp and press) but could much easier put the t there? so would the turbo still get enough oil and would the oil feed line reach? Thanks guys, i will be takling that tomorrow :) Just got my exhaust manifold out, it was hell for me :(

Welli started the installation today and i ll finish it tomorrow maybe...But here is what spinning in my mind and i can't sleep...I have canzoomer midp-4 which use a 5" size catalytic system when the stock stystem use a 2" size catalytic...
Well is there any chance to accidentaly increase boost with the highter air flow and have a problem with the turbo running in highter boost??

I also have greddy sp2 and by the time we speak we are connecting the revi with the turbo...

Please help me!!!!

If I have an oil filter sandwich plate, would it be okay just to hook the turbo oil feed to it instead of going through all this trouble above? An oil filter sandwich plate goes in between the oil filter and the engine, it contains two points for sensors, etc. I have two sensors to connect to it, (oil temp and press) but could much easier put the t there? so would the turbo still get enough oil and would the oil feed line reach? Thanks guys, i will be takling that tomorrow :) Just got my exhaust manifold out, it was hell for me :(

That's a good idea.
I put my oil filter sandwich plate in yesterday for my oil pressure gauge. I capped off the 2nd port since I don't need it.
It would be alot easier to install the turbo feed line there. You can tightened the sensors, T-fitting, and oil line onto the sandwich plate outside of the engine bay. Since the plate is free spinning, you can just hold it in place while tightening the filter onto it.
The line should reach, you may actually have some slack left.

The only other question is, would it get enough oil to the turbo.... I do not know much about engine oil flow. The oil line would be sitting at a higher point. I'd say contact Greddy, but they won't be in til Tuesday.

Welli started the installation today and i ll finish it tomorrow maybe...But here is what spinning in my mind and i can't sleep...I have canzoomer midp-4 which use a 5" size catalytic system when the stock stystem use a 2" size catalytic...
Well is there any chance to accidentaly increase boost with the highter air flow and have a problem with the turbo running in highter boost??

I also have greddy sp2 and by the time we speak we are connecting the revi with the turbo...

Please help me!!!!


Your boost could increase, have a boost gauge installed and do not go above 7psi. The Greddy kit was setup to run with the stock cat. If you have a midpipe or hiflow cat, you will need to get it tuned since you will run leaner. If your unable to get someone to tune it in your area, I'd suggest putting the stock cat back on.

Well here is my biggest problem right now(well one of the probs...)
I have placed the airinix filter in the revi box and i don't have any space under the hood to install the oil catch tank....

Any suggestions??And is there a horizontally oil catch tank???

today i was talk to some guy.. he told me they are making superchargers for the rx8... and once installed, it will put out about 400hp... anyone hear of this? what brand makes this

anyone.... ?

i say bs

i say bs



So do I. And I'm one of the guys making them.

today i was talk to some guy.. he told me they are making superchargers for the rx8... and once installed, it will put out about 400hp... anyone hear of this? what brand makes this

Yeah right. And you will be able to drive it down the street once and :

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid179/p057b07a8cf751c52b42e9f4efdf467f2/f310993e.jpg

I am in the UK and have been running the US version Greddy turbo kit for 3 months now. on the installation i had to slightly bend one of the aluminium air flow pipes as it was hitting the steering rack at first. Just uploaded one of the maps floating about here and the car is running so much better than before. There doesnt seem to be any bog at all now. Our octane levels over here are only 95 (in some places 97) so in theory the fuel isnt as good as yours. Can anyone give me any advice on getting a BOV fitted? I have read all the threads about it and you are saying there is welding to be done, but no one over here has fitted one yet as far as i can see and i dont know where to start with making one myself.

Question guys, I want to get a boost gauge. Can anyone recommend one that matches the panel colors? I've been searching for a small one, preferably 52mm-60mm in the stock panel color scheme, but can't find one. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
-Jon

If you're not worried about price, I believe the companies name is Praxxus, they make a gage that will actually change colors to fit your needs.

I am in the UK and have been running the US version Greddy turbo kit for 3 months now. on the installation i had to slightly bend one of the aluminium air flow pipes as it was hitting the steering rack at first. Just uploaded one of the maps floating about here and the car is running so much better than before. There doesnt seem to be any bog at all now. Our octane levels over here are only 95 (in some places 97) so in theory the fuel isnt as good as yours. Can anyone give me any advice on getting a BOV fitted? I have read all the threads about it and you are saying there is welding to be done, but no one over here has fitted one yet as far as i can see and i dont know where to start with making one myself.
you'll need to get the BOV and a universal aluminum flange for whatever BOV you buy. unfortunately there is welding involved, so if you can't do it yourself just mark where on the pipe you want the bov to go with a marker and take the pipe out and down to an exhuast shop. it shouldn't take them more than an hour to do and shouldn't cost too much.

Thanks epirochoid, is there any more work to do after the welding and refitting of the pipe, e.g. vacuum hoses or electrical work? is there any adjustments that will need doing to the emanage?
thanks

Well, given that you buy a atmospheric BOV (a true BOV), you need to run a vaccum line from the nipple on the BOV to a vaccum source on the other side of the throttle body. there are no electrical connections. tuning the BOV to stay closed at idle, yet still function properly as a relief device is a trick science...all i can say is get a boost gauge and play with it (someone else can probably offer better advice given what particular valve you get). again, if you get an atmospheric BOV you'll want to enable MAF voltage clamping on the emanage. this way the motor will not run pig rich under sharp off-throttle conditions, and should eliminate some bucking on upshifts.

...or you could get a recirculating bypass valve that dumps that air back into the system.

I've installed (and removed and installed and removed) a Greddy RS BOV. When it's on the car there is a LOT of popping when lifting off the throttle, even at low rpm. But the worst effect occurs at 6000rpm when it feels like the ignitioin has been turned off. I can hear the BOV going off. So, I turned it to full hard (only 1 - 2 threads above the lock nut) but this did not make any improvement. Then I tried running with the vacuum hose off as well and that moved the cut-out problem to about 7000 rpm. This is all still in vacuum manifold pressure ie not on boost. When I take the BOV off, everything goes back to 'normal.'

Do I have a bad valve? Or...?

PS I checked the valve at full hard, and it's opening at about 12psi

man i just started readomg tjos tpday. iv spent the last 2hrs reading every page of this thread. and i must say it is great. sdly the videos dont seem to be working, does anyone have another link to them.

thank you in advance.

Hey a bit off subject whats a good AFR for a F/I setup and does the air pump make a difference???

that and your 2 years late for the conversation